New Tubular Control Arms on My .:R32T

[Yak Meat]

First off,

That was about a 993 not a 964 or 911... the 993 is the last iteration of the aircooled and therefore the most complicated. The guy also bought a 21k car when the market dictated 30+ for a good condition car. So im not surprised he had issues.
911 = years 1984-89
964 = 1991-94
993 = 1995-98

I think.


911 are known for being a super-esque car u can drive everyday. This guy bought a lemon and a lemon in in the last iteration of air cooled...

having owned 2 911s. a 84 and 88, i have had to replace a battery, alternator, and steering bushing in the 88 and a 2nd gear syncro in the 84. That is all across over 75000 miles...

84 had 95k miles when sold
88 has 68k miles on it now and still going strong... pulls on my R32

(Tune up was 3000 dollars, but its a high strung flat 6)

[jmh2002]

Agreed.

To clarify, when i say 911, i meant the 911 model in general, all variants. Its still the current model name, regardless of which generation.

Also, I wasnt specifically referring to your car, it was just an aside. I expect one day there will be a porsche in my garage as well.

If not, then the .:R will have DSG and 600hp instead.

Best of luck with both cars!

[PowerDubs]

it will be able to come in faster, brake harder, and get on the gas way sooner than the R32 coming out of a turn. Without FI, your R32 will not be faster around a track. (Stock for stock comparison)

Ok, stock for stock, let's bench race- dig up test results for accel, braking, top speed and skid pad for both cars.

Yea Scott, I know we are way off topic..




- Josh
(yes, sent from my phone..excuse the typos)

[jmh2002]

Bench racing FTW!

Those old porsches had a certain handling prowess, thats for sure, but, they werent as quick as everyone likes to imagine.

Im putting my money on the .:R to be honest...

And in the real world, throw in some damp road perhaps, Id say the .:R would be all over the porsche.

Flame suit on (hmm, again, i best not make this a habit)

[PowerDubs]

Don't get me wrong, a great driver in either car will dust a mediocre driver in the other.


- Josh
(yes, sent from my phone..excuse the typos)

[Yak Meat]

so how about those control arms?

[nkgneto]

so how about those control arms?

Right! Talk about off topic!

[Yak Meat]

had to put some people in their place. haha

Anyways,

Back to the control arms. JMH how many miles do you have on your heims?

[jmh2002]

Going on towards 75,000km

[Yak Meat]

ahh you guys over there on the metric system. haha.

What kind of conditions have they seen?

Scott please chime in about what your heim joints have seen and the conditions and duration of torture if you will....

[jmh2002]

Yes, we live in the modern world....

Everything except harsh winter (ie: no snow), but including coastal environment.

Like I have said previously, take off a further percentage if you feel like it and I still think you come out with an acceptable number of miles.

[PowerDubs]

had to put some people in their place.

For that to be true, you would have to be right.


- Josh
(yes, sent from my phone..excuse the typos)

[Scott@USRT]

Scott please chime in about what your heim joints have seen and the conditions and duration of torture if you will....

Well... I drove for almost 10 years on similar spec joints on our Subaru "pre-runner" that we used for mapping rally courses and for daily driving. This vehicle was battered but never actually bruised, if you know what I mean. I'd be misleading you if these arms were tested for as long because they're a new product.

Also, remember... sooner or later we're going to have rubber rod ends to share. They'll ride somewhat cushier and will be 100% weather resistant compared to the metal versions. With that said, I'd have none of that on my own car. Rod ends aren't particularly expensive. So, if they wear out in two years, I personally have no problem with that. Again, though, what I had on my Subaru lasted for ten!

P.S. I realize that sometimes folks just want me to just say: "Relax. Trust me. Everything will be okay." I will NEVER say anything of the sort. My advice will always be technical and never sentimental. Sentiment doesn't win races. Period. I'm doing my job if the comfort level comes from the truth that I always attempt to convey.

[Yak Meat]

That is what im looking for. Besides, those disclaimers are untrue anyways and so subjective...

I will most likely be going with the heim joint ends. I just need to wait a little while before i can.

[Kammer]

Hey Scott,

Been trying to reach you. Please give me a call, email, or PM.

Thanks

[Arizman3]

Maybe it is just me, but I'm looking at these mounts, for the life of me I can't see how these work. Is there a link to some installation instructions that would help me better visualize these installed?
I have KW V3's and I just cannot visualize it nor how they are adjusted.

[Yak Meat]

Maybe it is just me, but I'm looking at these mounts, for the life of me I can't see how these work. Is there a link to some installation instructions that would help me better visualize these installed?
I have KW V3's and I just cannot visualize it nor how they are adjusted.

x2.

I have the H2Sport Plates and they look, feel, and are quality. They do not give a huge range of adjust-ability, but i was just looking for a little adjustment for alignment, some dialing in for track days, and to get ride of the F-ing VW mounts that suck deeees

Id post the site but its down for "tuning"

[jmh2002]

[Yak Meat]

Almost pulled the trigger on a set of these to go with my recently acquired Mad Max control arms... but 700 was made guap to drop!

[flippinvws]

word. I bought them anyway because racecar

[Yak Meat]

Im thinking an end of summer thing for these!

[r32autoxer]

OK, got some video of the wheel during an autocross. I was very impressed with the solid feel and precise handling of my R32T. Notice how solid and stable the wheel stays under load. There is no deflection at all. I was able to get inches away from the important cones. This was the first autocross without a front sway bar, I was a little worried there would be a downside. These fears were quelled after my first run. The front end feels like a scalpel, it just needs bigger tires and wheels (255/40/17 on a 8" wheel now). These control arms are the cats meow and the dogs bark if you are a weekend warrior. I just can't say enough about the way these arms make the front end feel.




For the record, I hit no cones.

[huichox4]

awesome man!!! looks very good and you are really driving that R like it was meant to .. need to take mine to a track again, it has been too long now.

btw is it legal to fill your car with helium for the race? hahahaha I dont know if it was my laptop that made it sound like that but your voice at the end sounded kind of funny lol

[L-I-V-I-N]

the yell at the end is awesome!

What are your KW V3 settings? And overall, do you think the car handles better without the front sway?

[huichox4]

the yell at the end is awesome!

What are your KW V3 settings? And overall, do you think the car handles better without the front sway?

I havent tried on the R but I know a bunch of other mk4 racers that take it off with great results .... first time I have heard someone take if off an R

[BOUDAH]

I havent tried on the R but I know a bunch of other mk4 racers that take it off with great results .... first time I have heard someone take if off an R

I dont have the Anti Roll bar attached either and I cant say that i really notice anything different. Im not autocrossing the car either.

The reason i removed the end links is cause one was damaged somehow so i jsut removed the two as id didnt wanna drop the subframe. Im currently on bilstein sports and OEM springs. No real adverse effects.

Ill buy these control arms some day

[r32autoxer]

the yell at the end is awesome!

What are your KW V3 settings? And overall, do you think the car handles better without the front sway?

I am using the motorsport settings that I found here on the forum. I don't play with the setting too much as I like to "set it and forget it".

There isn't any ill effects from removing the bar and she definately turns better without it. I just removed the end-link on the pass. side and used a cut rubber hose over the bar to keep it from damaging the powder coat on the arms. When I install my solid sub-frame bushes I will remove it perm.

[TJ_GTI337]

Yes, sir. You can get about 3 - 4° camber and caster out of our plates. This is more than most systems on the market. Additionally, the rod end in the Mk4 kits is sized at 1.5" which is about 50% larger than most that you see out there. (They're sized for cars about the weight of a Mustang vs. little VW.) So, they can take massive forces without deforming. The rod ends are backed with a lifetime warranty, too. That's simply unheard of! (USRT has yet to get a single request since 2007 when we first started with these bits. So, it's actually easy and safe for us to offer.)

Probably the most impressive feature is that the rod end is welded to solid metal but that assembly itself is embedded in polyurethane. Thus, they locate the strut as positively as a dedicated race solution but don't punish the driver.

So, these are a singularly unique street/rally/light race solution vs. the usual stuff which is best used at the road race track and only there. No other kit sold today is comparable in feature set or function. Skepticism exists out there regarding these parts. They're SO unusual and folks often shy away from what seems strange.

Watch USRT change perceptions yet again. We're sorta good at that. It's what we do. Convention bores us. We're here to push the envelope and hope you join with.

Before installing the K-macs I installed the IDF control arms. With the IDF's now I would never go back to the stock control arms/ Powerflex, the IDF's are as you described and more. A couple of days later I installed the K-mac, so far this is my second time on the Hunter alignment machine still can't get it right, the caster is way off and can't get it to adjust, can't get the camper to less than -1.5 (I wanted it at -1.0). The install instructions sheet was lost (long story) so can you please send some tips and advise on the install?

[vr6fanatic]

These seem to be the solution to OEM control arms. My question is, what is the longevity to these tubular control arms? And also, is there any type of warranty?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jmh2002]

I know this thread is a few pages, but most of your answers are here

[Yak Meat]

These seem to be the solution to OEM control arms. My question is, what is the longevity to these tubular control arms? And also, is there any type of warranty?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

See my question directed at scott above. he answers right after with a direct post. in essence hes ran similar heims on similar control arms for over 10 years with no issues...

Scott! Now that I have an A4 for a daily and winter car im thinking these are going to be it for me at the end of the summer like i mentioned! A number of track days have truly displayed the R32s desire to plow and i think these will be a solution along with the old driver mod!

[nkgneto]

Updated review on these? I'm looking at refreshing my front control arm bushes and I'm almost half way at the cost of these. Any updates on the poly ends?

[jmh2002]

Also, there is a recent thread here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...6#post78636206

[loosefalcon]

Updated review on these? I'm looking at refreshing my front control arm bushes and I'm almost half way at the cost of these. Any updates on the poly ends?

My set should be arriving today. Hopefully I'll have them installed and the car aligned tomorrow so that I can give some impressions. Thankfully they're a little cheaper now, as IDF revised the design so that the R32 ball joints will fit without having to purchase a conversion kit.

For those of you who have removed the swaybar and endlinks: I haven't really done any autocross (yet), so as someone who does almost exclusively street driving, is it worth removing? I'll have the subframe off tomorrow to install the arms, so I figure I can pull it off then if it's worth the trouble. Any adverse effects on the street?

[Yak Meat]

Good to hear they redesigned to accept the mk4 R32 ball joints. Makes them even more feasible.

I was expecting to spend like over 700 for these and now they are under 550! Very good deal considering the MCPII kit i was going after was like 400 and change... so another 150 and i get to loose some weight up front and less hassel for an install... sounds good to me!