awesome save! those seat covers look nice. hopefully theres no holes from the spoiler....
good luck! hope you keep it a westy!
Found this car locally and the price was right. The guy has 2 '82 diesel 4 doors that he won't sell, along with about 75 old American cars sitting in his field.
I'll get some better pictures tomorrow after work. I was running out of daylight and had already pushed the car inside so I couldn't get a lot of good shots.
He said the clutch was gone on it- right now the pedal is sitting almost all the way on the floor, so I'm going to see if it isn't just a broken cable or tube.
When the car first arrived it had a ricer trunk spoiler mounted backwards on the roof near the rear hatch. That had to come off before I let it inside.
The Good stuff: door cards look great, ignition, both doors and the hatch are all keyed alike. Cardboard is still intact from the headliner, but there is no material left. Engine turns over easily, but wouldn't fire with the 6 year old gas in the tank.
Aside from the spoiler, most of the car looks untouched. Still has what I am assuming is the original shift knob ( R 1 2 3 E ). The plug for the CO adjuster hasn't even been removed, and I couldn't find any obvious wiring hacks. Turn signals, horn, headlights, etc all function correctly.
Last edited by happybunny; 02-14-2012 at 01:31 AM.
cool man a little waxing on that red and it will pop and shine again
how does a grille break at that location......odd...
That's the only pic I have with the spoiler still on. A little hard to see it, but believe me, it's there.
No new pictures today- I got off work later than expected and it was overcast and rainy so I didn't feel like wheeling it out. Made a little progress though. I cleaned out the rodent nest in the airbox, and did plugs, cap, and rotor. I didn't get a key to the locking gas cap, so a little coaxing with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer got the lock cylinder out so I could get to the tank. The gas level was pretty low so I tried to dilute it out with a couple gallons of fresh gas, but no luck there.
Saturday is my next day off so we'll see what happens then. I'll Most likely be draining the tank and trying to get her to fire up. I'm not worried too much about it running like a top- I've decided I will most likely be dropping in the ABA hybrid that I'm building for the cabby, and selling the cabby this spring.
The engine lives! I tried to drain the bad gas through the line behind the fuel pump, but I could get a minute trickle at best. I took out the back seat and removed the fuel level sender and took out the pickup strainer. As soon as the strainer was out the gas came gushing out of the fuel line.
I soaked the strainer in a cup full of seafoam for about 30 minutes and scrubbed it down with an old toothbrush and reinstalled it. I dumped a few gallons of fresh gas in and the rest of the can of seafoam for good measure. After quite a few times of cranking it over it started to fire and run really rough for a few seconds then die. After a few times of doing this it started to stay running. After about 5 seconds of rough idling I figured I would try my luck and jump out and video it.
It smooths out after a bit. I let it idle for 5 sessions of about 5 minutes and it now starts up as soon as the starter twitches.
shows that these cars can live forever
6 years man...most people would think that block would have siezed
keep it up!
The engine really wanted to be seized- it cranked over pretty slow until I got oil pressure built up , then it came loose.
The main reason to get it started was to verify that the fuel system was functional. The little 1.7 is coming out, and the ABA hybrid is going in once it is put together.
I have the day off tomorrow so I plan on reassembling my cherry picker and lifting the ABA onto the engine stand, then getting it stripped down and cleaned.
It's got a few vacuum leaks, evidenced by the instant killing of the engine when I try to rev it up.
Last edited by happybunny; 02-20-2012 at 01:51 AM.
Looks similar to a diesel Rabbit coupe I've been trying to buy for a couple years from a stubborn farmer. I don't understand why some people gotta be so hard-headed and would rather let a car sit and rust in a field then let someone restore and enjoy it.
Once you go "clack", you never go back.
I haven't had a lot of time to work on the car, but managed to get a little bit done. Engine is ready for the head to be installed and the rest of the goodies put back on. I got the freeze plug installed where the oil breather used to be, and just need to trim the block off plate a little more and drill the holes in it.
Matching up the plate:
Got the rest of the block and oil pan scrubbed down, new pan gasket, and some fresh paint:
The lack of sludge in the engine when I pulled the pan off and the fresh looking cross-hatching on the cylinder walls makes me suspect that this engine has less than the 100k that were on the odometer of the car it came from.
So far there's no way I would spend the $65 on the blockoff kit. The 40mm freeze plug cost me $1.75 and the sheet of aluminum was $1 at the local metal scrapper.
I found a good looking 1980 4 door at the JY today with a nice set of black vinyl/simulated leather seats. They have a couple small rips, but nothing that can't be fixed with a vinyl repair kit. I got the two front seats with seatbelts and the rear with the pivot hinges for $75. I'll get some pictures of them up soon.
Last edited by happybunny; 03-12-2012 at 01:32 AM.
Eurospec lightweight flywheel, HD clutch, throwout bearing, distributor shim and gear set, etc are on their way to me. The block surface has been prepped and the pistons decarbonized. Ready for the head install on Thursday. Water pump and belt tensioner assembly is back on, just need to find the right size belt for use with the vr6 pulley on the water pump.
Also finished trimming the breather blockoff plate, just need to fire up the grinder and smooth it out and drill the holes for it.
Progress has been slow with only being able to spend an hour or 2 every couple weeks working on it, but I did this last weekend: ( and yes, thats a CIS basic setup that I swapped in for fun)
Amazing how easy the engine comes out when you do it the right way- from the bottom.
Hardest part was unbolting the downpipe. Even with lots of PB Blaster I snapped off 4 of the 6 studs. Used the hoist to support the engine while I unbuttoned everything, then raised it up enough to push the downpipe out of the way. After that I dropped it onto a mover's dolly and used the cherry picker to raise the car and roll the engine/trans out from underneath.
I didn't get a picture of it, but I also took the intake manifold to the local machine shop to have it hot-tanked to get rid of all the grime inside. They ended up doing it for free because they felt bad about forgetting to do it the first day it was there.
Last edited by happybunny; 04-25-2012 at 01:37 AM.
Got the tranny separated from the old engine today and needed to check out why the clutch lever was stuck in place. I was expecting to see the pushrod punched through the pressure plate cover, but instead I found this:
The release bearing grenaded, and the PO drove it like that long enough to weld the finger to one side of the bearing, and the pushrod to the other. I can get the finger at the local JY, but I'm having a hard time finding the 4 speed pushrod.
yeah i know about those, i put one of those into my 81 and i eventually removed it and put the solid metal type back in there
the plastic ones can separate and the bearings fall out into the trans......
i dont know where you can find the solid metal ones.......
GAP should have the pushrod and the fingers
if you find a source for the metal TO bearings PLEASE let me know i'll buy 3
The new bearing came from Techtonics and it is the plastic/metal combo. The old one had extended plastic tabs coming up out of the top of it, which I haven't seen on any of the new ones. the one pictured here appears to be all metal, but the picture isn't quite clear enough to be sure. http://busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=020141165E
solid metal ones are solid metal
i always reference this one
top right, solid metal
(only pic i have of them)
the plastic sleeve actually goes in your trans as a buffer slip between the metal of the trans and the TO bearing
i dont know where you can get those either.....they are generally required and hold the TO bearing center
i swear they had a 4speed pushrod
someone does i know it, i have seen them