I have the dash completely out what are the next steps to removing the heater box? Anyone want to sell me a bentley to prevent future mechanical inquire
i haven't done it yet, but have been looking into it because my 88 in in dire need of a new core. If you dont have AC then its a fairly simple job supposedly.. I dont believe the dash needs to come out regardless, but if you have it out already it can only help i'd guess..
Here are a couple posts i saved while searching for the topic on the Synchronized yahoo List (there's lots more discussions bout it archived there if you search..)
----- below copied from others posts on the synchronized list: -----
You do not need to take anything off the engine. You do not need to
remove the battery tray. You do not need to remove the IM & EM. There are
no mounting screws on the firewall. There are no important connections
under the battery tray for the cooling system. IF YOU DO, you will be
making a hellofalot more work than needed.
BUY A BENTLEY manual for your Quantum!!!!
I have done 3 heater cores within a 3 month period on Qsw and they all
suck, you will have almost 10 hours in your first.
Search my name & email addy in the Yahoo syncronized database as I have
done the post multiple times a few years back.
Easiest way is to remove the hood. Have a large sheet of plywood to lay
over the fenders so you can lay on top.
Remove all of then interior kneebar plastic on Both sides, air ducting,
shifter consol, passenger seat. Remove the battery. Drain coolant out of
system and blow air through one of the heater hoses on the fire wall to get
all of the coolant out of the core. Make sure that you have purchased the
heater core and Both heater hoses!!!! The white plastic shroud under the
windshield, rain tray area need to come off-4 8mm screws. Under it are the
4 screws for the HVAC box and the AC stuff. Remove the blower motor & fan
assembly. Cut off the hoses on the engine side. There are 2 screws under
the dash with the AC stuff that need to come out. Now you will have to
wiggle and fight to move the HVAC box towards the passenger side. What I
found to be a life line was to cut off the nipples of the heater core where
the hoses connect. Use the hole in the rain tray area to access the saw.
Wiggle shove cuss bleed etc.
The continuous hot air when set on Cold is a slight adudjustment of the
heater valve on the engine side of the firewall, the hose comes off the
head. There is a black cable that goes to the selector lever and a clip
that holds the housing. Loosen the clip and pull towards the hoter
setting-winter and the cooler setting off-summer.
I have done 3 in a row and the best is to Not remove the dash, but remove
Get a piece of plywood that will go across the fenders to lay on.
Jack up the front of the car, remove right front wheel.
Remove plastic rain tray, remove blower fan motor.
Drain all of the coolant out, and if you can use a air compressor to blow
the liquid out of the heater core too, makes less of a mess if any at all.
Interior---Remove all of the lower plastic around the knee "bar" area, the
shifter console, glove box, including the passenger side heater duct work.
You will see hardware, 10mm head or Phillips where the blower motor cavity
is, they hold the HVAC "heart box" up against the sheet metal, take the all
out. You might have to push it down to break the foam seal.
Remove the heater hoses from the engine bay, just cut them suckers off at
Now you can move the "heart box" around a bit.
The heater core will only come out the passenger side of the "h-box", so
position the hole so you can see the heater core's 2 nipples where the hoses
Cut them off with a small blade hand saw.
Remove the heater core.
Now the new heater core will not come with foam sealing tape, which keeps it
from rattling around. It's a PITA to make it stick all the way when you
slide the unit in, copy the old core where the foam is. When at operating
temperature will have a funny smell for a while.
Bolt everything up. While you are at this, I would install a new
thermostat, fan switch, any suspect hoses, and FTLOG use factory VW Blue