In a bind and need some help for the RS guys

[unclubbedvdub]

Ok so this may only apply to RS owners but any TT owner with info please chime in!
I am in the process of trying to change my oil today.

First question. How do I access the drain plug? From what I can tell is it under the main plastic underbody cover? Or do I need to remove the aluminum cover that lies just rear to the large plastic one?

Second question. Which tool is used to remove th oil filter casing. Is it a standard oil filter wrench that can be found at auto zone. Or is is Audi specific and will I need to order a special part? And how does the orange drain nipple work??

Thanks for all the help and sorry I am so lost on such an easy topic!

[TheSandeman]

so the oil pan and oil drain plug are accessible after you remove that plastic undercover/baffle. it should be located closer to the rear near the subframe (NOTE: on my 3.2 and most of the VAG cars ive done oil changes on, the drain plug is facing the rear of the car)

i dont recall what size the oil filter housing was but i used a set of channel locks to loosen mine up but when im at my friends house he has one of these that make life very easy

[unclubbedvdub]

Bump

Thanks for the help with the tool. I will give it a try tonight. Any chime in from the RS guys. Will this tool work?

I Still need help with the drain plug. I removed the front plastic cover and can only visualize the filter and the front of the oil pan with no way of reaching the rear or even seeing the plug. There is a large aluminum baffle covering the remainder of the pan.

Any help on what needs to be removed to gain access to the plug? There is a small plastic baffle screwed into the larger aluminum one. Maybe I will try removing this.

[JohnLZ7W]

That looks like a standard filter cup for the usual can style oil filter. The 2.5T uses a cartridge filter and there is a tool available that has the widget to drain the filter prior to removal

http://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com...599e6b2158bd71

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4-.../Tools/ES8616/

[unclubbedvdub]

Awesome.
I have the filter drain tool on the way. And filter wrench set up ready To go.

Just need everyones help to figure out which underbody cover hides the oil drain plug for the engine?

I am only asking because I have limited ability to get under the car currently without jack/pad and it would make my life easier not having to remove a buch of stuff to find the right one.

Appreciate all the help guys!

[JohnLZ7W]

The manual is kind of vague, it just says to remove the front noise insulation cover. I'm guessing that both the front plastic cover and rear aluminum panel both need to come off.

[TheSandeman]

The manual is kind of vague, it just says to remove the front noise insulation cover. I'm guessing that both the front plastic cover and rear aluminum panel both need to come off.

isnt that what i stated in my first reply?

[JohnLZ7W]

isnt that what i stated in my first reply?

I think the undertray on the 3.2 is a bit different than the RS since there's the aluminum panel, I thought a pic of the RS might be helpful since he can't go crawl under his car right now.

[mageus]

I was just under the car today. One can probably get by with removing the plastic panel, as that is more forward. The leading edge of the metal panel sits under the plastic panel, and it's bolted to the subframe with proper machine screws. I don't think that metal panel is meant to be removed frequently.

So, does the filter cover hang upside down? Is that why you need to drain it first? PITA to buy a $50 tool just to change the oil. I'm so used to not having to get under the A5 or Merc to change the oil.

[- Jeremy -]

I was just under the car today. One can probably get by with removing the plastic panel, as that is more forward. The leading edge of the metal panel sits under the plastic panel, and it's bolted to the subframe with proper machine screws. I don't think that metal panel is meant to be removed frequently.

So, does the filter cover hang upside down? Is that why you need to drain it first? PITA to buy a $50 tool just to change the oil. I'm so used to not having to get under the A5 or Merc to change the oil.

Good question. I actually don't know what the filter housing on the 2.5 is like. On my old 2.0T, the housing had a special valve so I bought that drain tool with the hose attached. On my R32, there was just a 5mm hex screw plugging the bottom of the housing. Remove it and the oil drains out. What's the 2.5 like? I hope I still have that tool. I haven't seen it in a while...

If it's like the 2.0T, you can drain the oil without the tool by sticking a small screwdriver into the valve. But you'll get pretty messy doing it. Probably just as messy as not draining the housing before removing it.

I'm also considering buying one of those Fumoto drain valves from ECS Tuning. Just attach a hose and pinch the valve open to drain the oil. I just hate dropping my drain plug into the oil bucket

- Jeremy -

EDIT: Nevermind. I checked the Maintenance Procedures document. The 2.0T and the 2.5T have the same oil filter housing which means you should buy the special drain tool if you don't want to make a mess.

[unclubbedvdub]

Yes I can verify that the filter housing as well as the drain attachment is identical to the VW 2.5L. Which means the same tools are required (drain plug tool and filter wench 74.5mm 14 rib) for no mess anyway.

Still though I am trying to locate the oil pan drain plug which appears to be under the aluminum. It is looking like I will be required to do vacuum extraction as I do not have the lift capabilities currently to remove the aluminum portion of the underbody. Nor do I want to considering the amount of attachments that must be removed.

Has anybody here successfully drained the oil from a TTRS pan yet to confirm what has to be removed?

Thanks guys for all the help so far!

[JohnLZ7W]

Oil drain plug is at the center, rear of the pan. I'm not sure why it would be difficult to find unless the oil pan is covered by the aluminum shield, which is pretty crappy if it is.

[unclubbedvdub]

Judging by this image the drain plug is certainly covered by the aluminum cover.

But it may be accessible via the little black plastic cover that is in the middle of the aluminum.
I will check on this as soon as I have a chance

Otherwise we are left with sticking to vacuum extraction which is cleaner I guess

[JohnLZ7W]

Maybe drop the pan one time to install the Fumoto valve and run the hose out the NACA duct when it's time to drain?

Can you get some pics of the bottom of the engine with the front plastic tray removed?

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MK_...l_Drain_Valve/

[unclubbedvdub]

I can't get photos currently but will try to ASAP. But I can describe it.

The front edge of the oil pan is just barely in front of the front edge of the aluminum cover.
So even with the oil plug adapter and hose option. You would not be able to reach the valve to release the oil.

This is all not considering that the plug may be visible by removing the little plastic cover that is incorporated into the aluminum cover.

[JohnLZ7W]

Ugh that sucks. I saw where the filter was located and thought that oil changes were going to be much easier than on the mk1 and then they go and make the drain plug difficult to access. Thanks Audi!

[David@vwvortex]

Wow.. one more reason maybe to buy an oil extractor? Never have to pull the plug. I use that in my .:R and have for years. Pulls pretty much everything out of the pan everytime.

Just a thought if getting to the plug is that much of a PITA. Saves a lot of time as well.

[tdi-bart]

you are kidding yourself if you think oil extractor gets the same job done as draining the oil

you need to remove the covers to get at the oil drain plug yes, i've done this before, also you will be in for a surprise not all the bolts are the same, i think one of them was a spline or some security bolt i forget

and if memory serves the oil filter is under the engine too, isn't it on top for the mk4 vw's? the oil filter is exactly the same as the 2.0t

[David@vwvortex]

you are kidding yourself if you think oil extractor gets the same job done as draining the oil

Really? Ever used one and then pulled the drain plug? If and hopefully when I get a RS I fully plan on using one.

[TheSandeman]

you are kidding yourself if you think oil extractor gets the same job done as draining the oil

This.


Sent from my iPhone4.

[unclubbedvdub]

I have also successfully used oil extractors for many years on many other vehicles. Certain Mercedes models in particular it is required as there are no drain plugs to open.

But if I am already under the car and have it in the air to access the filter, i will usually just loosen the drain plug as in the case with the RS (I hope anyway)

As it is looking now I will have to use the extractor method (hopefully getting 6.4 quarts out) until I have more time to dive under their and figure out which panels all need to come off.

[mageus]

I've used an extractor for my A5 and Merc. But I agree with unclubbed - if I'm under the car anyway, I'll drain from the plug.

The aluminum panel has six machine bolts with T30 heads, and a larger machine bolt with a triple square head. Of course, hex works fine in that bolt.

Problem is, the leading edge of the aluminum panel fits under the plastic panel. So you have to remove the plastic panel to get the aluminum one off (or at least the rear bolts on the plastic panel).

Of course, if the filter is on the front, you have to pull both off anyways.

It's not a big deal to remove those panels. It's just that I don't like removing and refastening machine screws. When I looked the other day, a couple of the screws were actually loose and half way out (from the dealer oil change?!). I would use thred lok if you pull that aluminum panel.

Need to do an oil change soon. Looks like ECS gets more of my cash.

Anyone have the part # for the filter element?

[David@vwvortex]

I've had/used mine for about 10+ years. I think the last time I pulled the drainplug on the .:R was maybe 3-4yrs ago and when I did after I had drained the oil out using the extractor I got a dribble, if that. So they are quite effective, but I understand if folks are uncomfortable, etc. using one. No biggie.

For reference.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a...-extractor.htm

That's interesting on the RS that there are so many panels underneath there. Almost like the undertray is flat or at least that's what they were shooting for. Doesn't make these oil changes any easier that's for sure!!!

[mageus]

That's interesting on the RS that there are so many panels underneath there. Almost like the undertray is flat or at least that's what they were shooting for

Not just that, but there are all these NACA ducts around there. It's really impressive the amount of engineering they put into this car. This isn't just a TTS with a bigger motor. I keep finding these little details that set this car apart. Really is a turnkey track car.

[JohnLZ7W]

Here ya go, it's a PITA the first time just getting access to everything but some PB Blaster and good tools make everything better

http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthr...TRS-oil-change

[mageus]

John, thanx for the info. Price you pay for aerodynamics. Aside from removing like 87 screws, it seems pretty easy.

[unclubbedvdub]

Thanks everyone for the collective effort.

I am going to do an oil extraction this week and then loosen the drain plug to see how much residual oil is left. If it is a tiny amount I will continue with the extractor method from here on out more than likely.

At least now we all know what is involved and how to access everything.