OK so we got the IDF drop plates, rear wheel bearings rotors and pads on last night. I documented as much of it as possible...sorry if some came out blurry bc we were kinda excited to get the job done
Before every DIY I will do a bit of explaining for the parts so the newer members can understand the functionality as well as the importance of doing such items. first up are the IDF drop plates. these plates are awesome little tools for the MKIV because the lower you go with your car the more you will begin to notice the rear wheel come closer to the front of the wheel well. The plates go on the rear beam and essentially re-locate the whole hub assembly back (the thing the wheel attaches to and allows it to roll down the road ). Not only do these center the wheel up in the wheel well, they now allow for more of a drop (about an inch), if you are on bags, because your tire will no longer be hitting towards the front, but at the top. Now you also need to know that these plates add -2 camber (leans the top of the wheel in a little which can cause increased un-eaven tire wear). Everyone says messing with the rear hub is a PITA but with the right tools this is actually a fun job. When I ordered these plates (i was the first to submit payment for them), I looked at my rear brakes and noticed that the rotors were very worn (there was a big lip on the out edge) and very rusty. the pads were also at a low point and needed to be changed. I ordered pads, rotors, and new rear hubs (wheel bearings) because all of it would be coming off anyway to get to where I could put the drop plates on.
now for the fun part! A big thanks go out to Ryan V., Christian, and my brother for helping me with this DIY/install.
NOTE: make sure you DO NOT have your e-brake cable pulled at all during the entire project
there are two bolts that hold the caliper to the car and another two that hold the caliper together. I started by taking the caliper carrier bolts off (took a lot of pb blaster and patience hammering on a wrench to avoid stripping them).
while we were working on the one side my brother was cleaning the caliper on the other
the next thing we did was unscrew the set screw holding the rotor in place.
it was stuck so we used a drill
the lip was so big on the old rotors that we had to grind it down to slide the caliper off. to get the rotor to pop off we had to hit it with a hammer.
We then took the cap off by hammering on a flathead to access the axle nut.
The old cap off
Now with the cap off we can get to the 30mm axle nut.
OK, so this is where I dropped the ball and didn't take a pic of the gear puller. basically you can rent one from your local auto parts store if you don't have one. My uncle happened to have one in his garage across the street so we were able to pop the hub off quickly. below is a pic of what a gear puller looks like.
The hub off and getting cleaned up a bit
it was then time to get the inner race off the hub via dremel, flat head, and hammer.
we then cleaned up the hub with some sand paper to ensure a good fit for the new wheel bearings.
and then put white lithium grease on it to help the wheel bearing slide on.
application of the lock for the bolts holding the drop plates on.
while my buddies were getting the drop plates ready I cleaned up the dust shields and prepped them for paint. i decided to go with silver caliper paint because I have always liked the look and it kind of makes the rear brakes look bigger rolling down the road.
after letting them dry for a little bit we brought them over and put them on with the drop plates and then put the new wheel bearings on.
we then put the rotor on and applied more white lithium grease onto it to help prevent it from seizing with the hub. Don't forget to put your set screw back in (or your new one if it came with it).
OK, another part where I dropped the ball. I forgot to show the process of putting the new axle nut on. Basically all you have to do is spin it on and torque it down with an impact, then spin it off of tight and then torque it back down with a torque wrench (I set mine at 129ft-lbs). Then we put the new cap back on.
it's also important to note that when you put new rotors on that they have a coat on them that helps prevent rust before they are shipped. you can use a can of this to clean off the coat. just spray it on and wipe it off.
Then we put half of the caliper back on and set the pads in place, and bolted down the rest of it.
NOW, since the drop plates have set everything back a little the reach on your e-brake cable will need to be extended, so just unclip it and slide some slack back a little and clip it back on...then pop your e-brake cable back into place.
After all that is done hop in the driver seat and pump the brake to set the pads in place. go back over everything and check for tight. Make sure you double check all your work seeing as this is your stopping power on the road .
Once that is done you can torque your wheels back on and enjoy! Now that they are on i have taken the car to the alignment shop to determine how many toe shims I need. I will DIY this at a later date to help reduce the tread wear.
Last edited by Billburt; 06-21-2012 at 01:29 PM.
Last edited by oldskool1963vw; 02-23-2012 at 09:19 PM.
remind me we should make a "not so cheap mods" and "maintenance" thread, the current DIY sticky thread has too many missing pictures and content IMO
if you guys think it's a cool idea i'll go ahead and create those two thread following the same rules from the cheap version and make them sticky if the get a lot of valuable content
Kudos to you Billburt for doign this thread , great pics
Last edited by kilimats; 02-25-2012 at 02:34 AM.
These plates are on my list of to do's once I FINALLY (been piecing it together slowly over the last few months) and while I am at it might as well do the brakes, rotors and bearings too. Reall clean looking car though.
This thread is the wind beneath my wings.
Insert witty quote
and now for the Eurojet Street FMIC install. I'm truly sorry in advance for this one will not be as detailed in term of pictures but, I will try my best to make up in text description. I must say that this is my second time installing this intercooler system and I am pleased to say that it has gone better this time and I have found it easier and cleaner than the latter.
I must once again thank Ryan V., my brother, and Christian P. for helping me with this install.
You will want to jack the car up and put the fronts on jack stands. You must begin by removing the front bumper. some may wish to take the front wheels off in order to better access the front wheel well cover screws, but with the proper tools it is not necessary.
the engine bay before
Then take the front grill and lower side grills out. the front grill can be removed by popping the hood and utilizing a screw driver for popping off the metal retaining clip and twisting the screw driver to pop loose the plastic hood latch pull. once that is done you can pry from the top of the grill towards you and carefully pop out the grill from the bumper. The lower side grills can pop off with no tools and the use of your fingers. Press down on the left and right sides of the grill where the slits are. my thumb displays where to apply pressure for the left side. It should pop right out with no trouble at all.
Now that the grills are off it is time to remove the bumper cover. you will need a torx bit set because there are two different sizes needed in order to remove it. if my memory is correct there are 5 in the area below where the grill is, one behind each lower side grill and three on each side holding the bumper cover to the wheel well covers. all are pictured below being removed. Once all 13 screws are removed you can (with the aid of an extra set of hands) safely remove the bumper cover; it should just slide off. As the bumper is sliding off you will need to un-plug the side marker bulbs and if you have a special edition that reads outside temp you will need to un clip that as well which simply slides off. the bumper cover is then free to be removed and set aside safely.
Now that the bumper is removed the removal of the front beam and stock side mount intercooler can begin. I would suggest by starting with the removal of the front beam. This might seem like a rudimentary task but it is far more difficult than it seems. There are two bolts and two screws per side. Each one of these plays a very important roll in holding a different portion of the front end together. Once the beam is removed you will notice that the front end has sagged. Unless you re-bracket the new (eurojet) front beam in the same position as the OEM one your bumper cover will not fit properly, the hood latch may not latch the hood as easily as before. Essentially you will need to fine tune this in order to ensure proper fitment. We adjusted it several times and opened and closed the hood multiple times until it was found to be as close to original as possible. Unfortunately when I purchased this kit used it did not include the Eurojet rebar (front beam), so I had to make due with the my old rebar from my old car and ground the plates off the OEM front beam and painted them so that I could continue to hold my front end together. I have included a photo of the Eurojet rebar for you to know what it looks like if you have not purchased it yet.
test fitting the brackets
In this photo you can see the painted brackets I have made from the old beam.
The images of the Eurojet rebar as promised
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And now it is time to remove the side mount intercooler. we started by removing the piping in the back of the engine bay that starts at the top of the turbo and heads down the passenger side to the intercooler. after the intercooler a pipe goes up to the side of the intake manifold which can be seen from the engine bay. All of these pipes are very easily unbolted/ unclamped to be removed. This is where I was unable to photograph some of these parts. I have been recovering from an internal injury and am unable to climb under the car to record that part of the removal process.
It is important to unclamp and disconnect the diverter valve and all the other hoses related to the turbo inlet pipe as well as the top pipe that comes out of the turbo, because all of it will be re-routed.
then you can unclamp the the top pipe as well as the pipe that heads down towards the pancake pipe which leads to the intercooler.
This is the pipe that heads down towards the bottom of the car towards the pancake pipe
If you would like to clean up the engine bay a bit more there are two of these pipe supports that are no longer needed and can be unbolted very easily.
The next pipe to remove is the pancake pipe which can be removed from under the car in the front passenger side behind the wheel. once removed the bracketing for the side mount can be un-done. Before removing the intercooler it is important to unscrew the MAP sensor from the body of the side mount so as not to pull and damage the wiring. The hose between the side mount and the intake manifold in the engine bay can remain inside and attached to the intake manifold for it will be re-used with the eurojet FMIC. it may be difficult to keep it in there while removing the side mount so if is possible to remove it with the side mount and put it back in (as I have done).
the pancake pipe removed
the plastic side mount duct being removed
The side mount being unbolted and removed
NOW that everything has been removed from the old system you can now begin to install the new FMIC. I started with the mounting of the front mount itself in place on the front of the car. i have painted the front of the intercooler with semi-flat black paint to add for a stealth look and avoid ruining the clean look of the front of the car
I would recommend that you start with the pipe in the engine bay and the routing of the boost hoses underneath it. The new routing is slightly different. The pipe from the turbo no longer goes to passenger side but now goes up and over towards the drivers side and down next to the battery so as to reach the right side of the intercooler. this portion is a bit tricky because you need to take an OEM hose you removed and cut it down to the right size for the diverter valve to reach the intercooler pipe. Below you can see the routing I have done. It is a very tight fit but it will work until I do the emissions delete which will once again simplify and clean the engine bay.
Attaching the intercooler pipe to the turbo
After this pipe there are two more for this side: the one that goes down and turns towards the outside of the car and the "U" shaped pipe that turns the routing to attach to the intercooler. below are the photos of this side being attached to the intercooler. NOTE: a hole must be cut out in the plastic splash guard so that the piping may go through to the intercooler. You also must make sure every clamp is properly set on the proper side of the bead and tightly secured. YOU WILL blow the pipe loose if it is not properly secured. you will also want to make sure every clamp screw is easily accessible in case you do blow a clamp loose or need to work on the car.
In order for the pipe to clear I flipped the top horn on it's bracket and turned the lower one.
The last thing to do is to secure the passenger side piping between the hose attached from the intake manifold in the engine bay and the right side of the intercooler pipe.
NEW MAP SENSOR LOCATION
NOW that all connections are complete i urge you to go back and check every clamp and connection there is in the system prior to putting the bumper back on. with this intercooler and piping it is not necessary to do any trimming to the bumper; it should slide back on properly and everything should go back on as it was before the installation. I am very pleased with the way it turned out as well as the fact that the cars modifications remains stealth.
Last edited by Billburt; 06-21-2012 at 01:31 PM.
Hopefully the next DIY will be the emissions delete/engine bay cleanup. I'm just waiting on 034 to send us the silicone hoses we need. if they get here this week we will start Friday night.
Sent from my TI 83 plus silver edition using tapatalk.
I love this thread. Thanks Billburt
Giac x+ (pump), NewSouth Performance 0-30 psi turbo gage w/center steering column mount, Euro Sport "CAI" heat shield w/ITG foam filter, N75J valve, Eurojet Mini Grenade DV, Forge motorsports TIP, APR 2.5" turbo back, NGK BK7RE Plugs gapped to .037, Koni full adj Coil Overs, ECS Adj endlinks, H&R 28mm adj rear sway bar, 20mm rear spacers, vented passenger liner for SMIC.