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DIY 6 SPEED OUTER CV JOINT replace
OK here we go again. This DIY is a simple one but pretty important. My outer passenger side CV boot ripped a few months ago and I noticed this because grease was slinging all over the wheel and wheel well. If this happens to you don't freak out because most people can drive with a ripped boot for thousands of more miles. I personally managed to get about 5 thousand miles after mine ripped, but some can get 10k on a ripped boot. the reason I knew it was time to replace it is because I started hearing a rotational clicking noise from that wheel well. I got the kit from Urotuning (HERE). Now some say to just replace the boot but I disagree because it's likely that dirt has gotten into the grease and will now slowly ruin the joint itself (like it did to mine), however, if you have caught that your boot is ripped right away it is possible for you to get away with just replacing the boot.
I, as usual must start this DIY by giving thanks to those who helped me with it. Most of the work was done by my cousin Al, and was aided by my brother Brian as well as Christian P.
first start by breaking the lug bolts loose on the wheel and then jack the car up and take the wheel off. Always make sure to use a jack stand and have your e-brake pulled before starting to work under the car. you can never trust a jack. Once the wheel is off you can start to remove the axle. You will need the proper size triple square to take the bolts off and the job is much easier if you have someone rotating the axle to access all the bolts.
Remove all the bolts.
I used two of my wheel bolts to rotate the axle as my cousin unbolted the triple square bolts.
The next thing to do is to grab a silver marker or something to mark the bottom of the control arm with, and move on to the three bolts under the brake at the end of the control arm. You will want to mark the positions that they are in (as pictured). this won't be perfect but it will help reduce the need for an immediate alignment after the job is done.
you will then want to break the axle nut loose which I sprayed PB Blaster on an hr prior to its removal. My cousin pulled on the breaker bar and I held the brakes down in order to brake the axle nut loose. It took a great amount of force to pull this one off.
Now that all the bolts are off you can pull on the rotor while pushing the axle inward toward the transmission and you should be able to pull the axle out.
break off the smaller clamp of the two holing the boot onto the joint. You will not need to take off the larger one because it will be removed with the old joint. then take a knife and cut the boot off. it is then recommended to use a rubber mallet to tap the CV joint off but i did not have one available so i just used a hammer which did just fine.
you will then want to slide the new boot down onto the axle and apply the new hardware and grease to the new CV joint. put as much grease inside the knuckle as you possibly can and place the remainder of it inside the boot. the tap the new CV onto the axle (in order to put the new retaining clip into it's place we had to bend it tighter in a vice grip). once that is on you can put the new clamps on. The ones supplied in the kit require a "special vw tool" but we found a way to clamp them down pretty easily. We used a set of pliers to get them slightly tightened to hold in place the propped a screw driver against something and on one side of the clamp and then used a punch and hammer on the other side to pinch the clamp together. We used this process for both clamps. once this was done we put the axle back in and and put all the bolts back on. below I have shown a page on my bentley manual to give you the proper torque pattern to tighten down the axle nut properly. you will see that we used the spare tire to go through this process without having to worry about scratching the snowflake. make sure you follow those steps carefully and get the torque wrench down to the proper specs for the axle nut as well as all the other bolts. once completed you will want to put the wheel back on and test drive it. i noticed that in the first two miles there was a slight noise that came from that side but quickly went away after the grease moved around properly inside the boot. Make sure to note in your service manual and properly document when and at what mileage you changed the joint.
As usual, feel free to PM me if you have any additional questions about this process. I would be more than happy to help.
Last edited by Billburt; 06-21-2012 at 01:32 PM.
couple of things to add.
1. The triple square shown in the pictures is like 6" long. If you can find a 4" triple square it will make things a little easier.
2. The pic of me loosening the axel nut while the car is on a jack stand.....yeah, don't do that. Have the car sitting on the ground when you do that. That was a brain fart on my part.
3. When you are trying the slide the new boot over the end of the axel it helps if you put a little grease on the inside lip of the boot (small end). Just makes it easier to get the boot all the way on.
also, I did this on an R32 a while ago. Here is the link. Its not a proper DIY but the banter back an forth has some good info....
good write up Will
Awesome thread, if you decide to do motor mount spacers, or front wheel bearing replacement I will definitely be tuned in. I have this homeade tool that some one let me borrow to pull the hub and bearing.. but cant quite figure out the best method. I went by Faelin GL's diy for reference but it doesnt fully cover how to remove the hub and bearing + pressing them back in. Anyways.. Car looks great!
Also, as far as the bearings go, I'm taking the spindles to napa today and having them pressed out so the spindles can be sand blasted. Then I will have them pressed back in. hopefully they will let me go back and snap some shots of the process.