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Thread: Homemade DIY 24V spring and valve removal tool?

  1. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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    02-22-2012 11:03 AM #1
    so im fixing and building up my cylinder head, long story short to much boost=snapped "stock" rod and a lil bit of piston slap on the edge of combustion chamber #1 i already have a machine shop whos going to re-weld the chamber and machine it for $200, buuuuuut the catch is i have to bring him just the bare mold or he'll charge $600 more to remove and install the stupid valves and springs.

    My problem is that non of the standard spring compressors are working on this damn head, the springs are to small and compact, it almost seems like ill have to buy the VW tool for $160, and for a one time use? i really dont wanna do that, does anyone have an alternative idea? homemade tool that maybe you'd like to share with me on how to make it? maybe someone wants to sell there VW tool for cheap?

    Thanks guys!
    ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

  2. Member jaso028's Avatar
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    02-22-2012 11:19 AM #2
    I have one @ home in my garage used it once on my 8v.. think I paid $150 for it...
    Ill have to double check it to see if its good for you for a 24v..

    but PM me an offer and we will talk!
    N.E.R.D.
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  3. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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    02-22-2012 11:22 AM #3
    ^^PM'd^^
    ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

  4. Member masterqaz's Avatar
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    02-23-2012 06:46 PM #4
    hammer + socket will get you half way
    Forced convection.... Now we grillin.
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  5. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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    02-24-2012 12:50 PM #5
    but then i wont be able to get them back in.....
    ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

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    03-01-2012 04:59 PM #6
    Take a deep socket that's as big as the spring, cut windows on either side to get a magnet pen in there to pull out the retainers while maintaining structural rigidity. Once you have them cut, put on an extender rod and a socket wrench. Apply body weight and that's it. Good luck.

  7. Member koko5869's Avatar
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    03-01-2012 11:55 PM #7
    Quote Originally Posted by nesisg View Post
    Take a deep socket that's as big as the spring, cut windows on either side to get a magnet pen in there to pull out the retainers while maintaining structural rigidity. Once you have them cut, put on an extender rod and a socket wrench. Apply body weight and that's it. Good luck.

    You could do this. A little cutting and welding of a big set of the welding vise grips or a clamp for woodworking. Seems easy enough depending how much time you're willing to put into it.

    Or maybe try auto zone's loaner tool program.

  8. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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    03-04-2012 11:17 AM #8
    i think im gonna take a deep socket, cut out openings, and grab the "C" clamp style puller from auto zone (loaner) i think this might work. ill let you guys know what happens
    ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

  9. 03-05-2012 05:28 PM #9
    try this.this is how i rebuild my vr6 24v head


    http://www.fgoc.co.uk/forum/index.ph...html#msg189776

  10. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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    03-05-2012 07:31 PM #10
    Quote Originally Posted by ferdi View Post
    try this.this is how i rebuild my vr6 24v head


    http://www.fgoc.co.uk/forum/index.ph...html#msg189776
    Hey ferdi when i click the link, it just goes to a log in screen???
    ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

  11. 03-06-2012 04:11 PM #11
    sorry for that.it was a thread about vr6 24v head rebuild i did.heres the pics you need.if you need some info about removing the valves or anything let me know







    and the procces goes like place the head on some wood so you can move the valves free



    then push the valve down with a screw driver in order to free the rocker arm.simply move it to a side


    then stick an old rug under the valves and push it with the bar.(only the valve cap) and knock the retainers out of the way.make sure the bar is long enough to reach your shoulder so you put your whole body weight rather than holding it with your hands,then you can use your hand to work,or simply ask some one to help you but just be carefull.i vedone it a few times and i can say it inwolves a bit of pain and arm ache if you get frustraded,as i said it might be a bit dangerous but it works.just be carefull be varned

  12. Member GRN6IX's Avatar
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    03-07-2012 10:55 AM #12
    German Auto Parts sells one:

    http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools...and+valvetrain

    Not that expensive, really

  13. Member GRN6IX's Avatar
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    03-07-2012 10:57 AM #13

  14. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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    03-08-2012 02:18 PM #14
    Thanks man, the first one might work.....the second "c" clamp style i already tried it doesnt work
    ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

  15. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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    03-09-2012 03:37 PM #15
    Well guys thanks for the input , i think im just gonna cave and buy the actual tool designed for it, i found a website that sells the bridge and bar style for $110(for the pair). Heres the link in case someone comes across the same problem and runs into this tread!

    http://www.toolsource.com/support-br...-p-106250.html
    ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

  16. 05-01-2012 12:41 AM #16
    hello i have an r32 im rebuilding and wanted to ask u if u had any info on how to set time and torquing sequence and head bolt torquing steps any info would help thanks
    diazc1983@gmail.com

  17. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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    05-01-2012 09:26 AM #17
    Quote Originally Posted by diazc1983 View Post
    hello i have an r32 im rebuilding and wanted to ask u if u had any info on how to set time and torquing sequence and head bolt torquing steps any info would help thanks
    diazc1983@gmail.com
    I could give you all the info on torque specs, bolt sequences, and timing from the "Bently" book itself, but as for the timing, i can almost garuntee that my explanation(without the bently book's pictures) will just be confusing, and i would hate for you to mess up timing and bend some valves on account of my explanations lol the pictures really do help tramendously! I would recommend you spend the money and buy the bently book(from amazon or something) it will help you for the duration of the car, well worth the money! you will also need the cam locking tool you can get from techtonics tuning! good luck buddy any other questions let me know!
    ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

  18. Member joeeveryman87's Avatar
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    05-01-2012 09:31 AM #18
    Btw here are a few pics of the project and the tool i used to tear apart my R head and put back together

    Photobucket

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    Photobucket

    Photobucket


    40min to take all the valves out...........6hrs to put them all back in! LOL
    ..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...

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