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    Thread: Need help piecing together a BT setup

    1. Member Vegeta Gti's Avatar
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      02-23-2012 01:22 PM #26
      buy the rods now, put them in. then start saving. then look for a pagparts 3071 kit.

      that would be the intelligent thing to do. it's gettign really fukn old seeing people go hey, just do rods last, and the frequency of the "**** i should've done rods" or " i'm selling my BT car cos of rod knock/blown" threads is getting annoying.

      do it right and spend less money. get the rods first, then go down the list. starting with clutch/pp, once again, making it easier as it can be installed prior to build.

      rods
      clutch/pp
      manifold
      turbo
      oil lines
      coolant lines
      downpipe
      wastegate(and dump tube)
      BOV
      front mount(or whatever)
      piping
      injectors
      fuel pump
      all odd's and ends(oil,filter,coolant,seals and gaskets)

      then lastly, software.

      this way you can do it in a way of stages. and once you have more $$ you can get a diff. but do us a favor, unless you have more money to have arnold@pagparts tune your car..dont go maestro, cos if your broke and time limited, then it isnt for you to learn and deal with. go unitronic or united motorsport. no others.


      :HOMEGROWN MOTORSPORTS:1:4.9 SuaSponte #13Dead Rabbits. Ungluck on IG. MKIforLife
      Quote Originally Posted by .Ant View Post
      What vegeta said.

    2. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-23-2012 01:38 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by Vegeta Gti View Post
      buy the rods now, put them in. then start saving. then look for a pagparts 3071 kit.

      that would be the intelligent thing to do. it's gettign really fukn old seeing people go hey, just do rods last, and the frequency of the "**** i should've done rods" or " i'm selling my BT car cos of rod knock/blown" threads is getting annoying.

      do it right and spend less money. get the rods first, then go down the list. starting with clutch/pp, once again, making it easier as it can be installed prior to build.

      rods
      clutch/pp
      manifold
      turbo
      oil lines
      coolant lines
      downpipe
      wastegate(and dump tube)
      BOV
      front mount(or whatever)
      piping
      injectors
      fuel pump
      all odd's and ends(oil,filter,coolant,seals and gaskets)

      then lastly, software.

      this way you can do it in a way of stages. and once you have more $$ you can get a diff. but do us a favor, unless you have more money to have arnold@pagparts tune your car..dont go maestro, cos if your broke and time limited, then it isnt for you to learn and deal with. go unitronic or united motorsport. no others.


      This is the way I was previously planning but again I'm not sure how long the k03s and manifold are going to hold up. How much to have rods installed as a guestimate in labor.

    3. Member Vegeta Gti's Avatar
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      02-23-2012 01:42 PM #28
      they will last fine if you relax and let it go. the k03s rarely jsut comes apart and obliterates things. if you can keep it smooth and not beat it it will last.


      not sure on labor, as i do it all myself and my prices for installing rods is too low. so i couldnt tell you, but the k03 and manifold can be pulled of a junkyard car for less than a 100. and you'll get practice.

      trust me young pedi-won
      :HOMEGROWN MOTORSPORTS:1:4.9 SuaSponte #13Dead Rabbits. Ungluck on IG. MKIforLife
      Quote Originally Posted by .Ant View Post
      What vegeta said.

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      02-23-2012 01:43 PM #29
      Do it right, do it once......

    5. Member Vegeta Gti's Avatar
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      02-23-2012 01:44 PM #30
      in fact, look up kohl's german


      seb, the owner, pulls parts, he is an old friend. tell him someone random dude from homegrown sent you in his direction...here is his # 717-866-5562. he will hook you up.
      :HOMEGROWN MOTORSPORTS:1:4.9 SuaSponte #13Dead Rabbits. Ungluck on IG. MKIforLife
      Quote Originally Posted by .Ant View Post
      What vegeta said.

    6. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-23-2012 01:47 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by Vegeta Gti View Post
      they will last fine if you relax and let it go. the k03s rarely jsut comes apart and obliterates things. if you can keep it smooth and not beat it it will last.


      not sure on labor, as i do it all myself and my prices for installing rods is too low. so i couldnt tell you, but the k03 and manifold can be pulled of a junkyard car for less than a 100. and you'll get practice.

      trust me young pedi-won
      I just rebuilt the k03 so it should be good to go for a bit. Just worried about the cracked exhaust housing and sick of the leaky cracked turbo flange on the manifold. How many hours do you think you can change out rods in? Do you pull the motor?

    7. Member Vegeta Gti's Avatar
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      02-23-2012 02:18 PM #32
      pull head,pull pan, motor in car. 6-7 hours to do it all in car start to finish...if i am feeling frisky. i have no need to rush, but i rarely get to do that anymore. in the last four years i've only done two blocks, not my own might i add.

      it's quite simple. gather the tools and do it yourself, there is a good write up in here somewhere.

      give seb a call for a manifold man!!
      :HOMEGROWN MOTORSPORTS:1:4.9 SuaSponte #13Dead Rabbits. Ungluck on IG. MKIforLife
      Quote Originally Posted by .Ant View Post
      What vegeta said.

    8. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-23-2012 03:31 PM #33
      Just got a great deal for an FX400 clutch with flywheel. Looks like the venture begins.
      Last edited by travis_gli; 02-23-2012 at 04:08 PM.

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      02-23-2012 04:09 PM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by Vegeta Gti View Post
      buy the rods now, put them in. then start saving. then look for a pagparts 3071 kit.

      that would be the intelligent thing to do. it's gettign really fukn old seeing people go hey, just do rods last, and the frequency of the "**** i should've done rods" or " i'm selling my BT car cos of rod knock/blown" threads is getting annoying.

      do it right and spend less money. get the rods first, then go down the list. starting with clutch/pp, once again, making it easier as it can be installed prior to build.

      rods
      clutch/pp
      manifold
      turbo
      oil lines
      coolant lines
      downpipe
      wastegate(and dump tube)
      BOV
      front mount(or whatever)
      piping
      injectors
      fuel pump
      all odd's and ends(oil,filter,coolant,seals and gaskets)

      then lastly, software.

      this way you can do it in a way of stages. and once you have more $$ you can get a diff. but do us a favor, unless you have more money to have arnold@pagparts tune your car..dont go maestro, cos if your broke and time limited, then it isnt for you to learn and deal with. go unitronic or united motorsport. no others.



      This. By the time you figure out ME7 and go through it, you could have installed standalone and tuned the car yourself with a cable throttle. Either let someone else handle it and get it close enough, or have Arnold tune it.

    10. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-23-2012 04:19 PM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by gdoggmoney View Post
      This. By the time you figure out ME7 and go through it, you could have installed standalone and tuned the car yourself with a cable throttle. Either let someone else handle it and get it close enough, or have Arnold tune it.
      Unitronic is most definitely what would be going in my car at the final stages.

    11. Member MKIII_96's Avatar
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      02-23-2012 10:54 PM #36
      Quote Originally Posted by Vegeta Gti View Post
      pull head,pull pan, motor in car. 6-7 hours to do it all in car start to finish...if i am feeling frisky. i have no need to rush, but i rarely get to do that anymore. in the last four years i've only done two blocks, not my own might i add.

      it's quite simple. gather the tools and do it yourself, there is a good write up in here somewhere.

      give seb a call for a manifold man!!
      while the heads off probably be wise to put some head studs on and maybe new exhaust valves

    12. Member Vegeta Gti's Avatar
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      02-23-2012 11:12 PM #37
      arp headbolts are fine, mine have been out and in three times over four years of well over 400whp.

      and i had a stock awp for 2.5 of that. stainless valves if you do. no need for iconel, think about it.its a street car, if something goes wrong its better to bend than break. inconel snap and take more with it, like pistons and turbo.

      Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
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      Quote Originally Posted by .Ant View Post
      What vegeta said.

    13. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      02-24-2012 10:11 AM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by Vegeta Gti View Post
      arp headbolts are fine, mine have been out and in three times over four years of well over 400whp.

      and i had a stock awp for 2.5 of that. stainless valves if you do. no need for iconel, think about it.its a street car, if something goes wrong its better to bend than break. inconel snap and take more with it, like pistons and turbo.

      Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
      good info on the stainless vs inconel
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

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      02-24-2012 02:35 PM #39
      Quote Originally Posted by Vegeta Gti View Post
      arp headbolts are fine, mine have been out and in three times over four years of well over 400whp.

      and i had a stock awp for 2.5 of that. stainless valves if you do. no need for iconel, think about it.its a street car, if something goes wrong its better to bend than break. inconel snap and take more with it, like pistons and turbo.

      Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
      I like your logic, and wish I had gone this route. Either way, the Audi will go cross country with inconel valves and a 5857.

    15. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 11:14 AM #40
      Is there any justice in replacing valves? I wasn't planning on touching the top end at least no time soon. As for head bolts where can I order a set.

      PS. The FX400 and flywheel are ordered. Rods will be purchased soon as well.

      EDIT: Found them and at a fairly decent price as the installation tool comes with
      http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=3091
      Last edited by travis_gli; 02-28-2012 at 11:24 AM.

    16. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 11:32 AM #41
      you dont need to change the exhaust valves until you go over 400whp iirc
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

    17. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 11:43 AM #42
      Quote Originally Posted by Big_Tom View Post
      you dont need to change the exhaust valves until you go over 400whp iirc
      Sort of thought so. My goals right now are only in the 350 range so it's not something thats top priority however I'm only looking at an extra $160 or so for 8 exhaust valves right? If thats the case how much extra labor to have them installed while the head is off for the rods.

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      02-28-2012 12:02 PM #43
      Quote Originally Posted by travis_gli View Post
      Sort of thought so. My goals right now are only in the 350 range so it's not something thats top priority however I'm only looking at an extra $160 or so for 8 exhaust valves right? If thats the case how much extra labor to have them installed while the head is off for the rods.
      Cutting 8 stainless or inconel valves, and you will do exhaust valve guides, they wear bad on 1.8T cars for some reason. It can cost a bit dependin on your machine shop, and then the tip height needs to be set on the valves, aka grind down the top to be in tolerance.

    19. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 12:16 PM #44
      Quote Originally Posted by gdoggmoney View Post
      Cutting 8 stainless or inconel valves, and you will do exhaust valve guides, they wear bad on 1.8T cars for some reason. It can cost a bit dependin on your machine shop, and then the tip height needs to be set on the valves, aka grind down the top to be in tolerance.
      It's all something that I need to discuss with my mechanic I guess which I haven't even found yet. I have a guy in mind just not sure if they even do high performance applications.

    20. Member Zneith's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 01:12 PM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by travis_gli View Post
      It's all something that I need to discuss with my mechanic I guess which I haven't even found yet. I have a guy in mind just not sure if they even do high performance applications.

      I just had exhaust valves installed. I'd recommend getting them done, especially if your doing head work anyway. I heard they were genuinely weak stock.

      Also if you do them, I'd suggest stainless.
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    21. Member iTech's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 01:27 PM #46
      I'll just leave this here...can't beat the quality of Arnolds workmanship @ PAG. We refuse to use any other kits on cars we build. I know every time we get one it will be a perfect fit and top quality components.

      Here's a pic of a 180 TT quattro set up we're doing now.

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    22. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 01:30 PM #47
      Quote Originally Posted by iTech View Post
      I'll just leave this here...can't beat the quality of Arnolds workmanship @ PAG. We refuse to use any other kits on cars we build. I know every time we get one it will be a perfect fit and top quality components.

      Here's a pic of a 180 TT quattro set up we're doing now.

      Excuse me while I go change pants.

      Btw do you have a couple of pictures of this in the car. I just want to see pipe routing etc of things.
      Last edited by travis_gli; 02-28-2012 at 01:39 PM.

    23. Member formerly silveratljetta's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 01:40 PM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by iTech View Post
      I'll just leave this here...can't beat the quality of Arnolds workmanship @ PAG. We refuse to use any other kits on cars we build. I know every time we get one it will be a perfect fit and top quality components.

      Here's a pic of a 180 TT quattro set up we're doing now.

      I would take that lightweight crank pulley off and replace with a fluidampr

    24. Member Vegeta Gti's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 02:08 PM #49
      agreed, those pulleys are useless
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      Quote Originally Posted by .Ant View Post
      What vegeta said.

    25. Member iTech's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 05:51 PM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by formerly silveratljetta View Post
      I would take that lightweight crank pulley off and replace with a fluidampr
      Yup I completely agree with you there...unfortunately the customer is always right and he likes the pretty red ones....LOL I am probably going to swap it for a stock one and toss it in the trunk. This was a budget build and I think after labor he's pretty much done for financially for a while.

      Especially after he found out the engine block was complete junk .....the previous shop that had the car thought they could put his 1000cc injectors in it and run the car with a stock turbo and a stock tune They actually told the kid he'd be fine to drive it like that for a while till he got his turbo on I wish I would have taken pics of the pistons when we pulled them out....looked like some sort of weird modern art project. This car was a complete mess.

      Will post up pics when we get it in the car new week.
      Last edited by iTech; 02-28-2012 at 05:56 PM.
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