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    Thread: Need help piecing together a BT setup

    1. Member MKIII_96's Avatar
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      02-23-2012 11:54 PM #36
      Quote Originally Posted by Vegeta Gti View Post
      pull head,pull pan, motor in car. 6-7 hours to do it all in car start to finish...if i am feeling frisky. i have no need to rush, but i rarely get to do that anymore. in the last four years i've only done two blocks, not my own might i add.

      it's quite simple. gather the tools and do it yourself, there is a good write up in here somewhere.

      give seb a call for a manifold man!!
      while the heads off probably be wise to put some head studs on and maybe new exhaust valves

    2. Member Vegeta Gti's Avatar
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      02-24-2012 12:12 AM #37
      arp headbolts are fine, mine have been out and in three times over four years of well over 400whp.

      and i had a stock awp for 2.5 of that. stainless valves if you do. no need for iconel, think about it.its a street car, if something goes wrong its better to bend than break. inconel snap and take more with it, like pistons and turbo.

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      Quote Originally Posted by .Ant View Post
      What vegeta said.
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    3. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      02-24-2012 11:11 AM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by Vegeta Gti View Post
      arp headbolts are fine, mine have been out and in three times over four years of well over 400whp.

      and i had a stock awp for 2.5 of that. stainless valves if you do. no need for iconel, think about it.its a street car, if something goes wrong its better to bend than break. inconel snap and take more with it, like pistons and turbo.

      Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
      good info on the stainless vs inconel
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      02-24-2012 03:35 PM #39
      Quote Originally Posted by Vegeta Gti View Post
      arp headbolts are fine, mine have been out and in three times over four years of well over 400whp.

      and i had a stock awp for 2.5 of that. stainless valves if you do. no need for iconel, think about it.its a street car, if something goes wrong its better to bend than break. inconel snap and take more with it, like pistons and turbo.

      Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
      I like your logic, and wish I had gone this route. Either way, the Audi will go cross country with inconel valves and a 5857.

    5. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 12:14 PM #40
      Is there any justice in replacing valves? I wasn't planning on touching the top end at least no time soon. As for head bolts where can I order a set.

      PS. The FX400 and flywheel are ordered. Rods will be purchased soon as well.

      EDIT: Found them and at a fairly decent price as the installation tool comes with
      http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=3091
      Last edited by travis_gli; 02-28-2012 at 12:24 PM.

    6. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 12:32 PM #41
      you dont need to change the exhaust valves until you go over 400whp iirc
      My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

    7. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 12:43 PM #42
      Quote Originally Posted by Big_Tom View Post
      you dont need to change the exhaust valves until you go over 400whp iirc
      Sort of thought so. My goals right now are only in the 350 range so it's not something thats top priority however I'm only looking at an extra $160 or so for 8 exhaust valves right? If thats the case how much extra labor to have them installed while the head is off for the rods.

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      02-28-2012 01:02 PM #43
      Quote Originally Posted by travis_gli View Post
      Sort of thought so. My goals right now are only in the 350 range so it's not something thats top priority however I'm only looking at an extra $160 or so for 8 exhaust valves right? If thats the case how much extra labor to have them installed while the head is off for the rods.
      Cutting 8 stainless or inconel valves, and you will do exhaust valve guides, they wear bad on 1.8T cars for some reason. It can cost a bit dependin on your machine shop, and then the tip height needs to be set on the valves, aka grind down the top to be in tolerance.

    9. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 01:16 PM #44
      Quote Originally Posted by gdoggmoney View Post
      Cutting 8 stainless or inconel valves, and you will do exhaust valve guides, they wear bad on 1.8T cars for some reason. It can cost a bit dependin on your machine shop, and then the tip height needs to be set on the valves, aka grind down the top to be in tolerance.
      It's all something that I need to discuss with my mechanic I guess which I haven't even found yet. I have a guy in mind just not sure if they even do high performance applications.

    10. Member Zneith's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 02:12 PM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by travis_gli View Post
      It's all something that I need to discuss with my mechanic I guess which I haven't even found yet. I have a guy in mind just not sure if they even do high performance applications.

      I just had exhaust valves installed. I'd recommend getting them done, especially if your doing head work anyway. I heard they were genuinely weak stock.

      Also if you do them, I'd suggest stainless.
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    11. Member iTech's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 02:27 PM #46
      I'll just leave this here...can't beat the quality of Arnolds workmanship @ PAG. We refuse to use any other kits on cars we build. I know every time we get one it will be a perfect fit and top quality components.

      Here's a pic of a 180 TT quattro set up we're doing now.

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    12. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 02:30 PM #47
      Quote Originally Posted by iTech View Post
      I'll just leave this here...can't beat the quality of Arnolds workmanship @ PAG. We refuse to use any other kits on cars we build. I know every time we get one it will be a perfect fit and top quality components.

      Here's a pic of a 180 TT quattro set up we're doing now.

      Excuse me while I go change pants.

      Btw do you have a couple of pictures of this in the car. I just want to see pipe routing etc of things.
      Last edited by travis_gli; 02-28-2012 at 02:39 PM.

    13. Member formerly silveratljetta's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 02:40 PM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by iTech View Post
      I'll just leave this here...can't beat the quality of Arnolds workmanship @ PAG. We refuse to use any other kits on cars we build. I know every time we get one it will be a perfect fit and top quality components.

      Here's a pic of a 180 TT quattro set up we're doing now.

      I would take that lightweight crank pulley off and replace with a fluidampr

    14. Member Vegeta Gti's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 03:08 PM #49
      agreed, those pulleys are useless
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      Quote Originally Posted by .Ant View Post
      What vegeta said.
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    15. Member iTech's Avatar
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      02-28-2012 06:51 PM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by formerly silveratljetta View Post
      I would take that lightweight crank pulley off and replace with a fluidampr
      Yup I completely agree with you there...unfortunately the customer is always right and he likes the pretty red ones....LOL I am probably going to swap it for a stock one and toss it in the trunk. This was a budget build and I think after labor he's pretty much done for financially for a while.

      Especially after he found out the engine block was complete junk .....the previous shop that had the car thought they could put his 1000cc injectors in it and run the car with a stock turbo and a stock tune They actually told the kid he'd be fine to drive it like that for a while till he got his turbo on I wish I would have taken pics of the pistons when we pulled them out....looked like some sort of weird modern art project. This car was a complete mess.

      Will post up pics when we get it in the car new week.
      Last edited by iTech; 02-28-2012 at 06:56 PM.
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    16. 02-28-2012 06:59 PM #51
      I have a FFE Mimi me kit and I made 360whp and 310 t
      Wtorq with 50 trim and everything was hang made to the best quality

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      02-29-2012 12:56 PM #52
      Quote Originally Posted by iTech View Post
      Yup I completely agree with you there...unfortunately the customer is always right and he likes the pretty red ones....LOL I am probably going to swap it for a stock one and toss it in the trunk. This was a budget build and I think after labor he's pretty much done for financially for a while.

      Especially after he found out the engine block was complete junk .....the previous shop that had the car thought they could put his 1000cc injectors in it and run the car with a stock turbo and a stock tune They actually told the kid he'd be fine to drive it like that for a while till he got his turbo on I wish I would have taken pics of the pistons when we pulled them out....looked like some sort of weird modern art project. This car was a complete mess.

      Will post up pics when we get it in the car new week.


      Rochester 1000cc injectors at the lowest pulsewidth possible before they dribble, still will run a low 11afr on our 1.8l motors.........

      Opening one up that is a "good runner and healthy" also looks like a modern art carbon mess.

    18. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-29-2012 01:07 PM #53
      Quote Originally Posted by gdoggmoney View Post
      Rochester 1000cc injectors at the lowest pulsewidth possible before they dribble, still will run a low 11afr on our 1.8l motors.........

      Opening one up that is a "good runner and healthy" also looks like a modern art carbon mess.
      This is funny because one of my coworkers buddies purchased a Mazda speed last year and they kept finding all these problems with it. It was running quite terrible and they couldn't figure out why until they pulled the 1000cc injectors out that were placed into a completely stock motor with no tune.

      I think these guys think along the lines of... more fuel must equal more power.

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      02-29-2012 01:12 PM #54
      Quote Originally Posted by travis_gli View Post
      This is funny because one of my coworkers buddies purchased a Mazda speed last year and they kept finding all these problems with it. It was running quite terrible and they couldn't figure out why until they pulled the 1000cc injectors out that were placed into a completely stock motor with no tune.

      I think these guys think along the lines of... more fuel must equal more power.
      Yep...... People don't get it. They are not carb jets, you can't just swap them out.

      You have a static pulsewidth range, and then you have an injector that flows X all out. So your flow is going to be different at any given pulsewidth not taking into account injector characteristics, solely accounting for flow.

    20. 02-29-2012 01:17 PM #55
      If you are anything like me, a 50 trim wont cut it. I got bored of a 3071r in 6 months and only drove it 5k miles. But do it right the first time, when you cut corners **** breaks and when it breaks your car is down, and that is just unnacceptable.
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    21. Member One-Eight GTI's Avatar
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      02-29-2012 01:25 PM #56
      Quote Originally Posted by iTech View Post
      What nuts are you using that hold the exhaust mani to head???? Are they better than the stock ones
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    22. 02-29-2012 01:43 PM #57
      Copper coated steal nuts^
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    23. Member One-Eight GTI's Avatar
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      02-29-2012 01:46 PM #58
      Quote Originally Posted by Mindfault View Post
      Copper coated steal nuts^
      Do you know if there is a benefit to them vs the stock ones???
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    24. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-29-2012 01:51 PM #59
      Quote Originally Posted by One-Eight GTI View Post
      Do you know if there is a benefit to them vs the stock ones???
      Stock ones are copper coated steel nuts. If you want good manifold nuts let me find my receipt and point you in the right direction. They were 10mm stainless I believe. Give me a minute to find it.

      Here you go...
      http://www.coastfab.com/php/proddeta...od=0947&cat=69

      A little pricey but most definitely worth it. Much easier to install, tighten or remove when the motor is in the car. Also much less prone to stripping the heads off. You should also note when ordering that you want stainless I believe.
      Last edited by travis_gli; 02-29-2012 at 02:04 PM.

    25. 02-29-2012 02:01 PM #60
      Yeah. 034 has 12mm copper coated steel nuts with their stud kit
      Unitronic830cc/Racetronix 846cc flowmatched injectors/HP6262SP-b/ TurboSmart Race Port/PrecisionPW39/TurboSmart MBC/Snow W/M Injection/IE Rods/AEB pistons/ARP Main cap studs/ARP headstuds/3" turboback/ FMIC/Custom fuel surge tank/ Wally 255/AEB head/supertech single keeper valves/ IECVA1 cams/IE valve springs and retainers/034 motor mounts. SPEC Stg 4 6 puck clutch, Vr6 lightweight flywheel. KRM intake manifold/80mm tb

    26. 02-29-2012 02:03 PM #61
      ^ those look promising. But with a manifold on the head in car it'll be a bitch either way haha
      Unitronic830cc/Racetronix 846cc flowmatched injectors/HP6262SP-b/ TurboSmart Race Port/PrecisionPW39/TurboSmart MBC/Snow W/M Injection/IE Rods/AEB pistons/ARP Main cap studs/ARP headstuds/3" turboback/ FMIC/Custom fuel surge tank/ Wally 255/AEB head/supertech single keeper valves/ IECVA1 cams/IE valve springs and retainers/034 motor mounts. SPEC Stg 4 6 puck clutch, Vr6 lightweight flywheel. KRM intake manifold/80mm tb

    27. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-29-2012 02:05 PM #62
      Quote Originally Posted by Mindfault View Post
      ^ those look promising. But with a manifold on the head in car it'll be a bitch either way haha
      Honestly with the 10mm size its a cake walk. The stock ones are 13mm I believe. Took me over an hour to get the stock ones off (they were used to put on my kinetics manifold.)
      Last edited by travis_gli; 02-29-2012 at 02:10 PM.

    28. Member One-Eight GTI's Avatar
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      02-29-2012 02:07 PM #63
      Nice, thanks for the info Had the factory nuts on for two years and all but a few were still tight (no exhaust leaks)... There a pain to tighten on those manifolds though, heated and bent a few wrenches so that I could get to the nuts
      Brute 20mm Connecting Rods, ACL Bearings, Wiseco 83mm Pistons, FSI Crank, AEB Head, CatCams 3658, PagParts GT3076R Bottom Mount V-Banded Turbo Kit, PagParts Garret 550HP Core, VF Engineering Motor Mounts, SEM IM, Labonte W/M, 70mm TB, Tial Q BOV, Tial Wastgate, Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller, Peloquin LSD, Clutchmasters FX400, 910cc Injectors, IE Surge Tank, Eurodyne with Maestro.... PAGPARTS Clear Water Dubs

    29. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-29-2012 02:10 PM #64
      Quote Originally Posted by One-Eight GTI View Post
      Nice, thanks for the info Had the factory nuts on for two years and all but a few were still tight (no exhaust leaks)... There a pain to tighten on those manifolds though, heated and bent a few wrenches so that I could get to the nuts
      Also if you happen to round off a stock one or you need a bit of wobble room for the new 10mm ones this is what you need.
      http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Tite-Supe.../dp/B000YABVMC

      All from experience

    30. 02-29-2012 02:11 PM #65
      half of mine are the 10mm jet nuts and the other half are those copper 13mm badboys. the smaller jetnut guys are easier on the ATP style mani's. Arnold's mani is much easier to put in.
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      02-29-2012 02:56 PM #66
      Quote Originally Posted by screwball View Post
      half of mine are the 10mm jet nuts and the other half are those copper 13mm badboys. the smaller jetnut guys are easier on the ATP style mani's. Arnold's mani is much easier to put in.
      I used jet nuts and nordlocs up top at the tight spots between 1-2 2-3 3-4, so that they can come off easy. The rest are copper nuts like you did and lockwashers, which have done fine.


      Just go over all the nuts and keep torquing until they are all the same. That's on a pag bottom mount manifold, which is still easier than an ATP, but still requires some jet nuts for overall sanity and a 20 minute install/torque, vs hours.

    32. Member formerly silveratljetta's Avatar
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      02-29-2012 03:05 PM #67
      Quote Originally Posted by gdoggmoney View Post
      I used jet nuts and nordlocs up top at the tight spots between 1-2 2-3 3-4, so that they can come off easy. The rest are copper nuts like you did and lockwashers, which have done fine.


      Just go over all the nuts and keep torquing until they are all the same. That's on a pag bottom mount manifold, which is still easier than an ATP, but still requires some jet nuts for overall sanity and a 20 minute install/torque, vs hours.
      Install Pag mani with the head off the car. 20 min. Done.

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      02-29-2012 03:12 PM #68
      Quote Originally Posted by formerly silveratljetta View Post
      Install Pag mani with the head off the car. 20 min. Done.
      Got mine on in 20 with the head on the car That is what I mean

    34. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-29-2012 03:19 PM #69
      Quote Originally Posted by gdoggmoney View Post
      Got mine on in 20 with the head on the car That is what I mean
      I can easily swap out manifolds now in very little time with those 10mm nuts w/ the head on the car. I wouldn't go through all that extra work of removing the head for no reason. If I was running BT that would be a different story possibly.

    35. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      02-29-2012 05:31 PM #70

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