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Thread: Need help piecing together a BT setup

  1. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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    03-15-2012 08:34 AM #246
    Quote Originally Posted by screwball View Post
    really? so like 6ft away from the turbine's not accurate?

    Travis I hated that sprung 6puck / heavy PP combo. Mine wore out really pretty quickly (about 20K) and you had to slip the balls off it to engage decent. Otherwise it was on/off.
    It's more like 2 or 3 feet away. Honestly it will do just fine, just because the gases will be cooler where my sensor would be doesn't mean I won't be able to see any fluctuations in temperature. Yes the reading will be cooler however I will be able to see if the gases are hotter or colder at any given time which is my goal. If I don't like what I'm seeing I'll plug the whole back up with the provided plug. I can always drill and tap the manifold or have a bung welded on the o2 pipe.

    In regards to the clutch, I'm sure I can get use to it however I don't like that you say it wore out in 20k especially after I just blew roughly 1400 on one including labor. The engagement isn't much of a concern to me as long as it holds under power. I had to slip it a bit pulling into the car wash the other day or I would've went right through the autowash. Hope I didn't hurt it.
    Last edited by travis_gli; 03-15-2012 at 08:37 AM.

  2. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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    03-15-2012 09:24 AM #247
    Quote Originally Posted by travis_gli View Post
    It's more like 2 or 3 feet away. Honestly it will do just fine, just because the gases will be cooler where my sensor would be doesn't mean I won't be able to see any fluctuations in temperature. Yes the reading will be cooler however I will be able to see if the gases are hotter or colder at any given time which is my goal. If I don't like what I'm seeing I'll plug the whole back up with the provided plug. I can always drill and tap the manifold or have a bung welded on the o2 pipe.

    In regards to the clutch, I'm sure I can get use to it however I don't like that you say it wore out in 20k especially after I just blew roughly 1400 on one including labor. The engagement isn't much of a concern to me as long as it holds under power. I had to slip it a bit pulling into the car wash the other day or I would've went right through the autowash. Hope I didn't hurt it.
    having that EGT in your downpipe is ok. the manifold or o2 pipe would be ideal. I personally would never tap my manifold for that. I'd rather have it in the o2 pipe instead. also, travi FWIW i had a spring 6 puck on one of my sr20dets. it was very "on and off" and i had so slip it alot for smooth engagement. this was 2004/2005
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  3. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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    03-15-2012 10:01 AM #248
    Quote Originally Posted by Big_Tom View Post
    having that EGT in your downpipe is ok. the manifold or o2 pipe would be ideal. I personally would never tap my manifold for that. I'd rather have it in the o2 pipe instead. also, travi FWIW i had a spring 6 puck on one of my sr20dets. it was very "on and off" and i had so slip it alot for smooth engagement. this was 2004/2005
    I've seen a couple guys running EGT's in their manifolds but I couldn't put myself to drilling a hole through mine. Again it's going to suck sitting in traffic with it. I haven't had it out yet except for the drive home since I'm still waiting on my caliper carrier. It should be here this afternoon and she should be back on the road.


  4. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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    03-15-2012 10:55 AM #250
    Quote Originally Posted by gdoggmoney View Post
    My v-band exhaust was 350$ installed.


    It cost me around $200 when I did mine myself (that was just in parts.) So that's not bad at all except there wouldn't be one shop around here that would do it for that price.

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    03-15-2012 11:59 AM #251

  6. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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    03-15-2012 12:10 PM #252
    Quote Originally Posted by dubinsincuwereindiapers View Post
    pffttt $850 exhaust is not food for my thoughts
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  7. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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    03-15-2012 02:41 PM #253
    Quote Originally Posted by dubinsincuwereindiapers View Post
    That's a catback, I'm not paying $850 plus shipping for a catback exhaust that has "dual mufflers" and mig welds.
    Last edited by travis_gli; 03-15-2012 at 02:45 PM.

  8. 03-15-2012 05:21 PM #254
    Sarcasm *ahem...
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    03-15-2012 05:42 PM #255
    Quote Originally Posted by travis_gli View Post
    That's a catback, I'm not paying $850 plus shipping for a catback exhaust that has "dual mufflers" and mig welds.
    You're piecing together a BT setup; which will require a proprietary downpipe. I fail to see the problem. Mig welds are extremely strong, its stainless, and v-banded. What more do you want?

    You're more than willing to plunk down the same coin on an aluminized system.

    Your logic escapes me...

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    03-15-2012 07:48 PM #256
    I went to JEGS, got the muffler I wanted and some piping with exhaust clamps.. I wanted a side exit so I am using the exhaust clamps to put it together. Then after its complete take it to your local welder and he will weld a few seams, less than an hour and charge $40 or so.. Did it on my last car and held up for years....

    If you want super cheap use the exhaust clamps and exhaust putty..

  11. Member steve-o 16v GLI's Avatar
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    03-16-2012 05:30 AM #257
    Quote Originally Posted by formerly silveratljetta View Post
    It's safe to say this build is going nowhere fast
    Wow what a prick. Its safe to say you need a Kotex. You sound like a child trying to beg someone to actually waste there time racing whatever hunk of crap you drive. Even if you won a race your still a tool kid. / rant
    Don't bother replying cuz I'm not arguing with you kid so keep your bs out of his thread.

    Travis things are def coming together. Ignore the haters. Some just hate to see ppl doing what they please with their car.
    It's his right to go off on whoever he wants. Etiquette isn't a requirement in America. It's his right as an American to be a douchebag. :-) You don't hate America, do you?

  12. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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    03-16-2012 09:08 AM #258
    Quote Originally Posted by dubinsincuwereindiapers View Post
    You're piecing together a BT setup; which will require a proprietary downpipe. I fail to see the problem. Mig welds are extremely strong, its stainless, and v-banded. What more do you want?

    You're more than willing to plunk down the same coin on an aluminized system.

    Your logic escapes me...
    The last time I checked I didn't piece anything together, I have a complete CTS 50 trim kit sitting on my living room floor. I want a complete exhaust and unless I'm under some sort of misconception here does the CTS o2 flange not end where the stock k03 flange ends (as in where the downpipe attaches?) Also is it not the same flange? (These are rhetorical questions Farley.)

    Quote Originally Posted by formerly silveratljetta View Post
    It's safe to say this build is going nowhere fast
    Where's your build? Would you like to dish out $5k to me? I would gladly accept it.

    Report of spending on my checking account from my credit union over the past 30 days. Don't tell me this build isn't going anywhere.


    Quote Originally Posted by steve-o 16v GLI View Post
    Wow what a prick. Its safe to say you need a Kotex. You sound like a child trying to beg someone to actually waste there time racing whatever hunk of crap you drive. Even if you won a race your still a tool kid. / rant
    Don't bother replying cuz I'm not arguing with you kid so keep your bs out of his thread.

    Travis things are def coming together. Ignore the haters. Some just hate to see ppl doing what they please with their car.



    As for an update on everything. I replaced my caliper carrier last night so she's driveable again (only $150 from ECS, the only place that carried it .) Drove it to work today and either I'm starting to get use to the clutch or I'm getting more pedal. I have about 50 miles on it right now. My next paycheck comes in on the 25th so I'll be ordering rods and valves then. I already made the decision that S&P will be doing the rods and valves and I will be putting the 50 trim kit on myself later down the road.
    Last edited by travis_gli; 03-16-2012 at 09:34 AM.

  13. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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    03-16-2012 12:30 PM #259
    Quote Originally Posted by seth_3515 View Post


    First thing that came to mind.. "to the window, to the wall! To the sweat drop.. Etc" Bahahaha

    -Xbox ftw!!


    Quote Originally Posted by steve-o 16v GLI View Post
    Wow what a prick. Its safe to say you need a Kotex. You sound like a child trying to beg someone to actually waste there time racing whatever hunk of crap you drive. Even if you won a race your still a tool kid. / rant
    Don't bother replying cuz I'm not arguing with you kid so keep your bs out of his thread.

    Travis things are def coming together. Ignore the haters. Some just hate to see ppl doing what they please with their car.


    Quote Originally Posted by travis_gli View Post
    The last time I checked I didn't piece anything together, I have a complete CTS 50 trim kit sitting on my living room floor. I want a complete exhaust and unless I'm under some sort of misconception here does the CTS o2 flange not end where the stock k03 flange ends (as in where the downpipe attaches?) Also is it not the same flange? (These are rhetorical questions Farley.)



    Where's your build? Would you like to dish out $5k to me? I would gladly accept it.

    Report of spending on my checking account from my credit union over the past 30 days. Don't tell me this build isn't going anywhere.







    As for an update on everything. I replaced my caliper carrier last night so she's driveable again (only $150 from ECS, the only place that carried it .) Drove it to work today and either I'm starting to get use to the clutch or I'm getting more pedal. I have about 50 miles on it right now. My next paycheck comes in on the 25th so I'll be ordering rods and valves then. I already made the decision that S&P will be doing the rods and valves and I will be putting the 50 trim kit on myself later down the road.
    The CTS o2 pipe does bolt up to your factory or aftermarket downpipe. I've had the same un modded ebay downpipe for about 5 years now. on stock turbo and BT. CTS kit is designed so that you still keep using the downpipe that u currrently have. I hope this clears things up a little more
    My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

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    03-16-2012 01:16 PM #260
    Quote Originally Posted by Vegeta Gti View Post
    buy the rods now, put them in. then start saving. then look for a pagparts 3071 kit.

    that would be the intelligent thing to do. it's gettign really fukn old seeing people go hey, just do rods last, and the frequency of the "**** i should've done rods" or " i'm selling my BT car cos of rod knock/blown" threads is getting annoying.

    do it right and spend less money. get the rods first, then go down the list. starting with clutch/pp, once again, making it easier as it can be installed prior to build.

    rods
    clutch/pp
    manifold
    turbo
    oil lines
    coolant lines
    downpipe
    wastegate(and dump tube)
    BOV
    front mount(or whatever)
    piping
    injectors
    fuel pump
    all odd's and ends(oil,filter,coolant,seals and gaskets)

    then lastly, software.

    this way you can do it in a way of stages. and once you have more $$ you can get a diff. but do us a favor, unless you have more money to have arnold@pagparts tune your car..dont go maestro, cos if your broke and time limited, then it isnt for you to learn and deal with. go unitronic or united motorsport. no others.


    I couldn't agree more.

    Most people do this in reverse b/c they want to go fast right away. Then you end up like Tom with a stock block and a VR6 clutch barely making over 300whp

  15. Member steve-o 16v GLI's Avatar
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    03-16-2012 03:42 PM #261
    And now that all d baggery is over back to the build.

    Trav I got my exhaust done at Gehmans off the Adamstown exit on 222. They do great work, fast, cheap. Took every car I've owned there.
    It's his right to go off on whoever he wants. Etiquette isn't a requirement in America. It's his right as an American to be a douchebag. :-) You don't hate America, do you?

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    03-16-2012 05:40 PM #262
    So travis what all came with your turbo kit? Or what parts do you still need to finish this up?
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    03-17-2012 12:44 PM #263
    Quote Originally Posted by MKIII_96 View Post
    So travis what all came with your turbo kit? Or what parts do you still need to finish this up?
    I haven't really dug through everything yet but I'll still need injectors, gaskets, an air filter and a fuel pump. Nothing major, the kit is pretty much complete. As for major purchases go I still need to figure out what for FMIC setup I want and get a hold of some rods, bearings, piston rings and valves as well as the gaskets required for that job.

    Now moving on to my clutch and my transmission for an update. I still have the 5th / 6th gear problem where I'll be on the highway and attempt to shift into 6th and instead it drops into 4th. Also this morning I was in reverse, backed up and then went to pull it out of reverse and basically had to force it out. I'm starting to get alot more pedal than what I had, I'm thinking I should bleed the clutch.

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    03-17-2012 03:57 PM #264
    bleed brakes then clutch. check cables for adjustment.
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  19. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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    03-17-2012 04:34 PM #265
    Quote Originally Posted by Vegeta Gti View Post
    bleed brakes then clutch. check cables for adjustment.
    I thought you were suppose to bleed closest to the reservoir to furthest away? That would mean clutch, drivers front, passenger front, drivers rear, passenger rear. Or should I do drivers front, passenger front, drivers rear, passenger rear then clutch?

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    03-17-2012 06:56 PM #266
    Bled the clutch and now I have engagement at the end of the pedal travel instead of at the beginning. It feels much more like the stock clutch now however its still more on / off. Not sure if they just forgot to bleed it when they put it in or some air pockets got loose from daily driving but I got a whole slew of air out of there. That would explain why I couldn't get it out of reverse this morning.

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    03-17-2012 07:38 PM #267
    Do youself a favor and run gaskets everywhere. manifold to turbo inlet, turbine outlet to o2 pipe, wastegate gaskets, and of course o2 to downpipe
    My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

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    03-17-2012 08:43 PM #268
    Quote Originally Posted by Big_Tom View Post
    Do youself a favor and run gaskets everywhere. manifold to turbo inlet, turbine outlet to o2 pipe, wastegate gaskets, and of course o2 to downpipe
    Vband ftw!
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  23. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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    03-17-2012 09:08 PM #269
    Quote Originally Posted by codergfx View Post
    Vband ftw!
    the kit he bought doesnt have v-band. also i have seen vbands leak before and there are v-band gaskets out there
    My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

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    03-17-2012 09:26 PM #270
    Quote Originally Posted by Big_Tom View Post
    the kit he bought doesnt have v-band. also i have seen vbands leak before and there are v-band gaskets out there
    yea i know, ive seen it before hoping mine wont gasketless, but incase that does happen i bought one of those gaskets you speak of
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  25. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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    03-19-2012 02:40 PM #271
    Quote Originally Posted by Big_Tom View Post
    Do youself a favor and run gaskets everywhere. manifold to turbo inlet, turbine outlet to o2 pipe, wastegate gaskets, and of course o2 to downpipe
    I planned on this.

    Also I had another problem regarding the clutch this morning. I had a bit of trouble pulling it out of 1st gear after pulling into a clients parking lot. The clutch seems to be engaging and disengaging fine. I'm thinking it either needs bled more, it's a master cylinder problem or something wrong with the selector forks themselves however I never had problems pulling out of gear before the clutch went in. The master cylinder was never replaced and I know bleeding the slave cylinder in these O2M's is really finicky.
    Last edited by travis_gli; 03-19-2012 at 03:00 PM.

  26. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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    03-19-2012 03:29 PM #272
    Quote Originally Posted by travis_gli View Post
    I planned on this.

    Also I had another problem regarding the clutch this morning. I had a bit of trouble pulling it out of 1st gear after pulling into a clients parking lot. The clutch seems to be engaging and disengaging fine. I'm thinking it either needs bled more, it's a master cylinder problem or something wrong with the selector forks themselves however I never had problems pulling out of gear before the clutch went in. The master cylinder was never replaced and I know bleeding the slave cylinder in these O2M's is really finicky.
    ^^^ it sux ur having problems getting that clutch adjusted right. thankfully mine went in smooth and i haven't had a problem with it. i doubt it's the forks or the master cylinder because they were fine right before you put in the new clutch
    My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*

  27. Member Vegeta Gti's Avatar
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    03-19-2012 03:43 PM #273
    did you replace the throwout bearing when the clutch was installed?
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  28. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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    03-19-2012 04:05 PM #274
    Quote Originally Posted by Vegeta Gti View Post
    did you replace the throwout bearing when the clutch was installed?
    Yup the kit came with a new one. I sort of think there's still some air in there or something causing problems.


    Quote Originally Posted by Big_Tom View Post
    ^^^ it sux ur having problems getting that clutch adjusted right. thankfully mine went in smooth and i haven't had a problem with it. i doubt it's the forks or the master cylinder because they were fine right before you put in the new clutch
    It did have some issues before the clutch was put in but they were gears not engaging properly like shifting to 6th would actually drop the trans into 4th. But I have never had disengagement problems.

  29. Member Vegeta Gti's Avatar
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    03-19-2012 04:23 PM #275
    still sounds like cable adjustment to me.

    when you bleed the clutch master and slave you dont need to bleed the brakes. but when you bleed the brakes..you start furthest away from master.

    anyway, get your bentley and get those cables finalized...sometimes they dont lock onto the end and they move when you shift
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  30. Member Big_Tom's Avatar
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    03-19-2012 04:46 PM #276
    Quote Originally Posted by Vegeta Gti View Post
    still sounds like cable adjustment to me.

    when you bleed the clutch master and slave you dont need to bleed the brakes. but when you bleed the brakes..you start furthest away from master.

    anyway, get your bentley and get those cables finalized...sometimes they dont lock onto the end and they move when you shift
    yah, mine actually didn't lock the 1st time i put it in place and it slid back down out of place
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  31. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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    03-19-2012 06:03 PM #277
    They are definitely locked but I'll re-adjust the linkage (put the shifter to home as well as the trans) and go from there. I still think there's air in there because I don't have problems until I'm at normal operating temps (or maybe somebody put some DOT3 in there and its boiling off, I think DOT3 is good to 470 or so however.) If I have to have S&P drop the trans again so be it. Needs to be figured out before I throw 300+ ft lbs of torque at it. If it's something they did they will admit it and not charge me as all their work is warrantied. Good guys over there other than the fact I bled an @ssload of air out of the slave over the weekend. You would've thought it was a pneumatic cylinder.
    Last edited by travis_gli; 03-19-2012 at 06:07 PM.

  32. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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    03-20-2012 04:03 PM #278
    Adjusted the linkage last night and I haven't noticed anything yet today in regards to having problems shifting wise however the clutch still clunks / grabs like hell from a stand still in 1st gear. I'm guessing it does this just because I'm at a standstill. Shifting into every other gear when actually moving is butter smooth.

    I did notice when adjusting that the outlined piece in the picture I can basically just grab and pull off of the shifter. Should this be held in place by something? (Picture isn't from my car but basically same thing)

    UPDATE: Getting ETKA installed so I can take a look.

    Last edited by travis_gli; 03-20-2012 at 06:04 PM.

  33. Member schwartzmagic's Avatar
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    03-20-2012 08:05 PM #279
    Why does it happen? Because race car!

    My twin disk does the same thing from a stand still. Its either engaged or it isn't. And when it engages its like bam! Its a combo of the clutch you're using and no dual mass flywheel. What you need to learn or find is the happy place between riding/slipping the clutch to engage it and throttle application. Once you find that you'll be a lot happier. Every now and then i still get that though and its not fun.

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  34. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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    03-20-2012 09:33 PM #280
    Quote Originally Posted by schwartzmagic View Post
    Why does it happen? Because race car!

    My twin disk does the same thing from a stand still. Its either engaged or it isn't. And when it engages its like bam! Its a combo of the clutch you're using and no dual mass flywheel. What you need to learn or find is the happy place between riding/slipping the clutch to engage it and throttle application. Once you find that you'll be a lot happier. Every now and then i still get that though and its not fun.

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    It just makes me cringe when it happens.

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