#1
Hey guys this is my first build thread, i post with random questions from time to time, i did a full OBD2 aba swap into my 1980 2dr rabbit, and it was pretty straight forward, now im going to be doing a full 2003 AWP 1.8T O2J swap into my half restored 1982 rabbit pickup.
Here are a few things about the truck; its an 82 pickup been through 3 people in the current state(minus 20v swap components). the truck was full painted and all the body work done i believe 4 years ago, and has sat on a lift at the local dealer for 2 years then sat at a buddies house for almost 2 years. the Previous owner was going to do a 88 scirocco swap (1.8 16v) but lost complete interest.
So now i have it. first i was just going to run dual webers and call it a day but, an offer came up i couldnt refuse. a 2003 gti that was wrecked. so i thought ive had a 2.0 liter in an mk1 and that was pretty fun car, geez imagine a uni stg 2 1.8t. so i bit the bullet and here is it... the beginning of my build.
enough talk im sure you guys want to see some pics!
The Truck:
This is the day i took it home
Shortly after i got it home, i pulled the motor to try and sell to fund the new one to take its place.
Got my taxes back so i paid some billsand went picked up the Donor car, the seats and stuff we gone and sunroof and hatch but i got the rest haha, i had to immediately start tearing it down and getting what i needed as it was a huge eye sore. and bought some diamond racing steelies 13x8 that i should be able to make work, they were cheap so i picked them up from Craigslist.
haha my buddy ray who was nice enough to come get this POS.
due to the wreck, the oil cooler house was broke but i got a used one for 50 bucks!
Full wire harness minus b pillar back:
Since im not going to have custom axles made, i luckily found someone wanting to trade my 108mm axles flanges for their 100mm flanges,
passenger motor mount, needs paint and BFI stg 1 mount:
Top trans mount, already powdercoated clear with BFI stg 1 mount:
this is about where im at motor is in there all by itself, starting this week i will be making the front motor mount. holding off on the rear till i get most of the harness figured out.
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#3
looks good so far, that belt tensioner seems damaged. get a newone dont risk the engine.
in for more pics
#4
#5
The clipper kit on a caddy is interesting. Looks kind of weird with no rear bumper though.
Swap looks good so far![]()
#7
#8
sorry guys i have been doing some traveling so not much has been getting done, but this week ill be getting back on it!!
i have made but not yet welded, the bracket for the clutch/master cylinder and the bracket for the throttle pedal. they should be welded up tomorrow and ill post pictures of that.
i need to quit slacking as im hoping to be driving this to H20 2012.
#9
sweetI actually really dig the purple 16v for some reason.
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#10
#11
Neat, got any clear pictures of the purple 16v in the truck?
#13
So I have encountered a self inflicted problem... My route with the bay.
I am shaving it regardless of route but I'm torn on painting it yellow
Again like the truck, or doing bedliner. I know a lot of people hate it. But yea it's going to be a semi show car when completed... But I think the textured makes it look tough. I did it
To my mk2 Jetta diesel bay...
Give me your opinions, as I'm
Cutting everything and welding everything up this week in preparation of paint or bedliner.
#14
You should paint the bay chocolate brown...
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I have various MKII and MKI parts. Mostly Diesels and some Gasser stuff.
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#16
I think you should keep the yellow and purple theme. I have never seen anything like that before and I think it goes well with the "toy" like aspect of these cars.
In my opinion bed liner looks cheap and grungy and as if you were trying to cut corners or cover something up.
#17
Do purple motor or engine bay??
I like the " rugged" look with the bed liner and yea your right. But it's easy to hide the bad body work on the bay from the support support.
#18
that drivers side transmount is going to break..you need to add some gussets and box it out.
trust me
:HOMEGROWN MOTORSPORTS:1:4.9 VulcanWorks SuaSponte #13Dead Rabbits 1.8l20vAEB3651GonzoFerrera1000cc1552.billet3071rSE M80mmAWIC.H&R.PagParts.Snow034clutchmasters.IE.198 4JettaGLi
#19
#20
broken a few lol.
where the bushing goes in, do some lateral gussets for the flexing that is inevitable with the 250ft.lbs+ of torque you will have...any wheel hop, even very little will, stress that tons.
suden grip, no bueno. and it will happen
if the O is the side view of your mount where the bushing is, do this
-O-
:HOMEGROWN MOTORSPORTS:1:4.9 VulcanWorks SuaSponte #13Dead Rabbits 1.8l20vAEB3651GonzoFerrera1000cc1552.billet3071rSE M80mmAWIC.H&R.PagParts.Snow034clutchmasters.IE.198 4JettaGLi
#21
I think you should keep the yellow. maybe dial back the purple a bit, but still keep it for larger parts like the valve cover and such. purple alternator and oil cap are a bit much, but i do think that its an interesting (and suprisingly good looking) combination. Not to mention the yellow is not a color you commonly see on any mk1, let alone a caddy, or one with a 1.8t swap.![]()
#23
#25
wow, moderator mistake. I tried to post, and mistakenly edited your post.
My bad,
Tim
Last edited by root beer; 03-31-2012 at 10:21 AM.
#27
Kinda late on the subject, but here is my bay that i did in bedliner.
It looked and worked great for what it was.
I used Duplicolor brand rattle can bedliner, and its held up great over almost 3 years.
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#28
#29
20vt Caddy's are sick. Ultimate sleeper. Mine sure does fly. Sick build.![]()
#30
#31
#33
#34
thanks for your help john! i figured out my issues. i hope to have it wired tomorrow.
#35
sorry for the slow progress, i just got a speeding ticket, 51 in a 35.. so im currently doing the lawyer thing so a bunch of money has to go for that now. but stay tuned guys!