Doing it All at Once: Sorting Out Wiring / Pin Outs for Rear Fogs & Back-Up Camera

[Outrider6]

There are some killer DIYs here...Mostly done one at a time...I'm trying to do everything at once due to the economies of disassembling the car...

I'm mostly done but I ran into a little issue with wiring.

I have VCDS and a Bentley Manual (which has not been useful to me).

Car is a 2011 JSW TDI DSG.

AUTO Euro Switch, Front fogs, Rear fogs, Hi-line CECM, & a back-up camera are what's in play here.

The conflict that I found is that Pin 28 on the black CECM connector seems to be for a back-up light. (One source says left and another says right.) Pin 28 is also recommended for use with the back-up camera, which needs a signal that the car is in reverse and it's time to activate the camera.

I need to sort out how to get:

• A back-up signal onto the Back-up camera connector
  
• A rear fog on/off signal from the CECM to the wire that was for the left side back-up light

While keeping the right back-up light working as is.

I read from one of the Sportwagen luminaries on this forum that:

If you don't already have a rear fog light, and you want to convert to one swap pin 47 on the orange connector with pin 28 on the black connector. These are your front right LED DRL and your left backup light. The trigger for the rear fog light (from pin 7 at the Euroswitch) goes to pin 17 on the black connector. You can replace the left tail housing with the Euro one which will give you a rear red fog. I simply replaced the bulb with a bright red LED for about $12.

(I've got a Eurohousing with the red bulb already, so all I need to do is switch the appropriate wire to the rear fog trigger at the CECM end.)

I don't understand what swapping pin 47 on the orange connector with pin 28 on the black connector would do. It seems like the right front DRL and left back-up lights would reverse functionality.

I was expecting to pull the left rear back-up wire off at the CECM end and plug it in where the rear fog light terminal went. Then I'd just put the back up camera wire where the left back-up light went and life would be good.

(Sorry for my ignorance, but I thought I could read a wiring digram until I started looking at the Bentley.)

If I have this right, I just need to know where...

• The pin where the left back-up light sits on the CECM
• The pin where the rear fog light is activated from the CECM
• The pin where the right back-up light sits, so I don't monkey with it

I'm pretty sure there's one or two folks here who have both the camera and the rear fogs working OEM-style. I'd really appreciate your help on this...

[Code3VW]

I have both done...

Here is the DIY for the BUC. It is the GOLD connector, pin 28.

Here is the DIY for the rear fog. It is the BLACK connector, pin 28.

I haven't done the Rain Light Sensor (RLS), so I don't know about getting the auto functions working...

[Code3VW]

Oh, and don't forget, you will need to code Byte 18 differently as well, to tell the car that you only have 1 reverse light, and 1 rear fog.

[Outrider6]

I have both done...

Here is the DIY for the BUC. It is the GOLD connector, pin 28.

Here is the DIY for the rear fog. It is the BLACK connector, pin 28.

I haven't done the Rain Light Sensor (RLS), so I don't know about getting the auto functions working...

Thanks for the speedy reply. I was using the same BUC link, but something different for the rear fogs.

I seem to have missed that one pin 28 was on the Gold connector and the other pin 28 was on the Black connector.

Any idea about the swap of the pin 47 on the orange connector with pin 28 on the black connector for the fogs. (I guess I just don't understand what this does...)

I don't have an RLS and I'm already in deep enough water. Not gonna mess with that one...

[Code3VW]

Thanks for the speedy reply. I was using the same BUC link, but something different for the rear fogs.

I seem to have missed that one pin 28 was on the Gold connector and the other pin 28 was on the Black connector.

Any idea about the swap of the pin 47 on the orange connector with pin 28 on the black connector for the fogs. (I guess I just don't understand what this does...)

I don't have an RLS and I'm already in deep enough water. Not gonna mess with that one...

From what I remember...when you switch byte 18 to rest of world (row) it tells the car you have the rear fog and reassigns the output. Why? I have no idea.

[Outrider6]

Front fogs are done, but not tested...

Rear fogs... Euroswitch To CCM is good. I'm not sure about whether ToeBall's suggestion to swap pin 47 orange with pin 28 black makes sense. I'll use VCDS when I power up again and swap bits out as suggested. I wish the Bentley manual was of more use...

Rear view camera. While I had everything apart, my wife decided that we needed to swap kids and that I was to depart immediately. So I closed up the car and was gone for three prime work hours.
Guess what you can't open electrically without your CCM installed? That would be the trunk. So I'll have to crawl in and use the manual release. The car is, of course, loaded down with tools, supplies and parts. But the RVC video cable is hooked up at the Nav and is partially routed (up to the B pillar). Maloosheck's power cable is at the same stage of routing.
We're having a very hard time getting the red wire into the fuse box, though. (We can't get the connector to insert in spot 16. It goes in--at least partially--but it won't stay in.)

Potential trouble spots... Cable routing alongside the Pano roof... Getting through the rubber sheath on the hatch... Everything electrical...

[aenea]

Front fogs are done, but not tested...

Rear fogs... Euroswitch To CCM is good. I'm not sure about whether ToeBall's suggestion to swap pin 47 orange with pin 28 black makes sense. I'll use VCDS when I power up again and swap bits out as suggested. I wish the Bentley manual was of more use...

Changing the coding to activate the rear fog changes what the pins do.

No rear fog - pin A28 = driver's reverse pin C47 = halogen passenger DRL
rear fog - pin A28 = halogen passenger DRL pin C47 = rear fog

Dunno why, but that's the way it works.

[Code3VW]

Changing the coding to activate the rear fog changes what the pins do.

No rear fog - pin A28 = driver's reverse pin C47 = halogen passenger DRL
rear fog - pin A28 = halogen passenger DRL pin C47 = rear fog

Dunno why, but that's the way it works.

The man, the myth, the legend!

[Outrider6]

Changing the coding to activate the rear fog changes what the pins do.

No rear fog - pin A28 = driver's reverse pin C47 = halogen passenger DRL
rear fog - pin A28 = halogen passenger DRL pin C47 = rear fog

Dunno why, but that's the way it works.

I got a PM from ToeBall that said essentially the same thing. The RoW software changes what the pins do.

If you want rear fogs...the RoW configuration...you've got to make the swap!

[sportwagen rick]

Front fogs are done, but not tested...

Rear fogs... Euroswitch To CCM is good. I'm not sure about whether ToeBall's suggestion to swap pin 47 orange with pin 28 black makes sense. I'll use VCDS when I power up again and swap bits out as suggested. I wish the Bentley manual was of more use...

Rear view camera.
We're having a very hard time getting the red wire into the fuse box, though. (We can't get the connector to insert in spot 16. It goes in--at least partially--but it won't stay in.)

Potential trouble spots... Cable routing alongside the Pano roof... Getting through the rubber sheath on the hatch... Everything electrical...

On the fuse box, you have to slide the pink clips to "unlock" the pin holes, then insert your wire, and snap the pink clips back to the locked position. Pins won't slide out when you "unlock" it, you still need a terminal release tool for that, but it is the only way to insert new terminals.

All that's been said about the coding and pin locations, I can confirm.

[Outrider6]

On the fuse box, you have to slide the pink clips to "unlock" the pin holes, then insert your wire, and snap the pink clips back to the locked position. Pins won't slide out when you "unlock" it, you still need a terminal release tool for that, but it is the only way to insert new terminals.

All that's been said about the coding and pin locations, I can confirm.

I appreciate you chiming in here...Big time saver.

I've really gained an appreciation for how much work it takes to do these mods. Even the simple ones can be elusive if not just plain hard to figure out on your own.

Take the simple Euroswitch. Some switches come with a jumper wire; some don't. Mine did, but there weren't any instructions with it. One site said put the jumper in position 3...which was filled. After fishing around for a while I finally found a DIY that got the pin right (5) and talked about unlocking the connector to insert the pin. But it took a while to sort out what was right. And we did have some issues with the connector, which did unlock--but not in the same way.

I'm still not sure how to disconnect the rubber wiring sheaths that link the chassis with the hatch. I'm pretty sure these need to come off in order to get the video and power cables mated up with the camera.

[sportwagen rick]

Squeeze them. They'll pop out.

[Outrider6]

Squeeze them. They'll pop out.

I did a little prying with a trim tool and see there's a white plastic frame under the rubber. Do you squeeze the rubber and plastic together removing them as a unit or do you separate them first, then remove?

[sportwagen rick]

Yup, remove the whole thing.

[Outrider6]

I think I've got more disassembly to do...

The pinkish plastic is still inside black plastic, which is held on with a zip tie and probably some molded in clips. Does the black plastic have to come off, too? Any comments on disassembly?

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjz1f6s4

[sportwagen rick]

No. There's a clip to lift and it very slightly shifts/slides with the black piece, which will "open" it and allow you to insert a new wire. It's a subtle movement.

[Outrider6]

No. There's a clip to lift and it very slightly shifts/slides with the black piece, which will "open" it and allow you to insert a new wire. It's a subtle movement.

Thanks again. Of course, it's raining out so I'm going to wait until tomorrow to put the wire in. I don't want to be the short circuit.

[Outrider6]

I'm having a hard time finding the coding for the new CECM. I started looking this stuff up when JSWs were in the Golf Mk VI forum. Now it's everywhere but where I'm looking.

I know to switch it out of factory mode.

The bit 18 warning (from VCDS) to get to ROW lighting in order to activate the rear fogs is scary. Not sure what option to select.

Got lots of lights on the dash...

[aenea]

So, first thing you probably want to do is cut and paste your old coding into the new CECM. Then make the changes you have to make.

I wouldn't worry too much about the byte 18 warning; when the cars first came out no one understood that "00" meant "don't change the coding from the current setting", so people were making changes and then changing back to "00" and then not seeing the behavior revert back.

To activate the rear fog, you'll want to change byte 18 to 02.

I'm having a hard time finding the coding for the new CECM. I started looking this stuff up when JSWs were in the Golf Mk VI forum. Now it's everywhere but where I'm looking.

I know to switch it out of factory mode.

The bit 18 warning (from VCDS) to get to ROW lighting in order to activate the rear fogs is scary. Not sure what option to select.

Got lots of lights on the dash...

[Outrider6]

I got out of factory mode... And I selected 02 for Byte 18 on the CECM.

My pin swaps must've worked. Both fog lights work up front. Rear fog works, as does the dash rear fog indicator. Right back-up light works fine.

Only thing not working is the camera. I set it up correctly in VCDS, but there's no video from the camera. The (5A) fuse is in and was not blown. Cable connections seem good. "Look! Safe to Move?" comes up, but the screen is otherwise black.

I'm wondering if we got the power tapped off the right wire on the CECM...

Anything else to check?

I have an ESP error on the MFD, TPMS warning light and a traction control warning light.

[aenea]

The ESP and TCS lights will go away when you drive around the block. If you have real pressure sensors, the TPMS may have have reset to 5.5 bar, which is a lot. I think the factory default is 2.2 or 2.3 bar. There are instructions on how to set it here:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...ure_Monitoring

Sorry, I don't have any tips on the camera.

I got out of factory mode...

My pin swaps must've worked. Both fog lights work up front. Rear fog works, as does the dash rear fog indicator. Right back-up light works fine.

Only thing not working is the camera. I set it up correctly in VCDS, but there's no video from the camera. The (5A) fuse is in and was not blown. Cable connections seem good. "Look! Safe to Move?" comes up, but the screen is otherwise black.

I'm wondering if we got the power tapped off the right wire on the CECM...

Anything else to check?

I have an ESP error on the MFD, TPMS warning light and a traction control warning light.

[Outrider6]

I have the TPMS w/out sensors model. 2011 JSW TDI...

I'm double checking the forums to make sure the Back-up camera wiring is the same for a 2010 and a 2011

[sportwagen rick]

Have you tried a hard rest of the head unit?

Other than that I would say to double check the connector at the handle.

[Outrider6]

Have you tried a hard rest of the head unit?

Other than that I would say to double check the connector at the handle.

I haven't found a way to restart the RNS-315 head unit. The closest thing was "disconnect the battery for a while."

After checking the pinout on the gold connector, I went to the rear hatch, pulled off he trim and had a look. The ground and red leads were swapped on the Maloosheck cable end. Swapped these out and the picture jumped right out.

CECM recoding has been interesting. Had the typical "won't lock" problem. Discovered that the CECM had slipped back into factory mode.

[Outrider6]

My son was a huge help in this project. I could not have done this without his eyes and flexibility.

The wiring part is among the most difficult parts to do. The connectors are tough to get to and have little slack. They reside in the dark and the numbers are, at my state of vision, impossible to see. Running changes seem common on the connectors and some disassemble easier than others. The numbers were the killer, though, and I had to have my son do all of the pin work on the CECM connectors.

I still have a boatload of errors. The MFD tells me to check front DRLs and the rear back-up light, which are now physically swapped, but work as I intend. I know some of this sorts out with driving, so I'm going out for a check ride.

[Outrider6]

The "idiot lights" are mostly out. The bulb out warning light remains on, but I have a few fixtures pulled for LED updates.

It's really nice to get the car buttoned back up and on the road.

[ToeBall]

The "idiot lights" are mostly out. The bulb out warning light remains on, but I have a few fixtures pulled for LED updates.

It's really nice to get the car buttoned back up and on the road.

I understand. I had a similar issue when I recoded the traction control, abs, and steering power assist. I've got a good chunk of my car buttoned back up now as well, but a few small issues remain. Apart from the front turn signals, the whole car has been converted to LED. I do think I'm going to be stuck replacing my Euroswitch though to get the rear fog working correctly, and I'll need to add an inline resistor to the license plate lights as I get an intermittent. bulb out on those. Next up, rain and light sensor, and then I'm installing the AFS. I'm sort of scrambling to get the JSW done before the R gets here an a few more weeks.

[Code3VW]

Did you get the camera figured out?

Check the 3-wire harness as well as the coax into the back of the radio. Make sure it is seated all the way in there (and "clipped" in).

[Outrider6]

Did you get the camera figured out?

Check the 3-wire harness as well as the coax into the back of the radio. Make sure it is seated all the way in there (and "clipped" in).

The three wire harness got wired incorrectly. Once that got fixed, the video popped right up. Very nice feature. Should be a factory option.

[Outrider6]

I understand. I had a similar issue when I recoded the traction control, abs, and steering power assist. I've got a good chunk of my car buttoned back up now as well, but a few small issues remain. Apart from the front turn signals, the whole car has been converted to LED. I do think I'm going to be stuck replacing my Euroswitch though to get the rear fog working correctly, and I'll need to add an inline resistor to the license plate lights as I get an intermittent. bulb out on those. Next up, rain and light sensor, and then I'm installing the AFS. I'm sort of scrambling to get the JSW done before the R gets here an a few more weeks.

It may be the last thing I do for a while, but I want to get LEDs set up in the car. Do you have a list of sizes and sources?

R sounds cool.

My next project is an '09 JSW 2.0T 6MT gasser. No 4Motion for JSWs in North America...but the '09 is a little gem. The '09s are, in some ways, a step up from the later models. The SEL has leather and a lot of "comfort" features like a passenger mirror that drops down when you select reverse. I got the 2.0T for its engine and transmission, though. It's a real sleeper... But that's another thread.