#1
Like the post states i cant figure this out and need help. When i start the car i have to keep it above 3000 rpm to even drive it. If i keep it below 2000 after starting thats as far as i can go 2000 rpm. If i keep it above 2000 it runs good. Anybody know what can be causing this? I need help asap.![]()
#2
Last edited by J.Knipl; 02-25-2012 at 06:58 PM.
idratherhaveabottleinfontofmethanafrontallodomy
#3
ISV? thats like a vacuum fan right? I cleaned that out. I replaced fuel filter, plugs cap and wire. I also have a temp light that stays on.But with that isv off or unplugged the car wont start. Its the thing in front of the distributer right? Like i said i am looking for places to start and yea my vacuum lines have alot of bolts in them and I just bought the car today. Only drives right if i keep the rpms at 3400. By base timing what do u mean? The cars timing belt is dry rotted lol
Last edited by Turbo8V2.0; 02-25-2012 at 07:35 PM.
#4
If and when that breaks/snaps it won't be a 'lol' and your valves won't be liking that. So check your grounds, also for any leaks and full tune up as stated above and your change your timing belt.The cars timing belt is dry rotted lol
Then you can start troubleshooting with your Bentley
#5
1992 MKII GTI 16V
'66 MCI challenger 8V71 detroit
#6
Well I meant to say "base idle" but I goofed , sorry. It's not a bad idea to check the timing though since you mentioned the bad state of your timing belt. The isv is right by the disturber cap on a 16V I believe. It's suppose to raise the idle while your ac or defroster is on. Try running the ac or defroster to see if that changes anything. There is an adjusting screw on the throttle body . That's the idle bypass screw. Clockwise lowers idle speed , counter clockwise raises idle speed. Give that a try . At some point you'll have to by a Bentley's manual and do an in depth analysis.
idratherhaveabottleinfontofmethanafrontallodomy
#7
Yes as stated , if that timing belt breaks you'll bend some valves$$$$ That might be your first priority.
idratherhaveabottleinfontofmethanafrontallodomy
#8
Ok well the car idles fine.....my biggest issue if i want to drive over 20 mph i have to hold my foot on the gas pedel and keep the rpms over 3000k or else i aint going nowhere and i start looking like a teenager trying to learn to drive stick......And serious whiplash
#10
Yea I think that's an issue too the temp light stays on....but how would that create the bucking issue?and non driveability issues? Literally I have to idle at 3k rpm to be able to drive lol
#11
#12
I haven't checked anything yet... I literally just got the car home . I know I need to replace the timing belt along with all the vacuum lines. But knock sensors will be next. This cars a pos lol
#13
#14
Sounds like the classic hole in the intake boot above the airbox problem..... Floor it in first/second gear and car goes good, trying to slowly accelerate in first and it bucks and almost stalls.
MK2 Partout / Cleanout: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...8-GTI-of-sorts
#15
I doubt its the boot on the airbox but I do have a new one. Does anybody know if a golf can run on just one fuel pump? I think my inline pump may be bad. Since I don't hear it prime at all. Would the car drive on the lift pump alone? Just curious. I think its a fuel issue. If I keep it reved abve 3k rpm I can drive it. If it drops below 2k I can't drrive over 20. Also have a bad temp sensor. Please let me know what you guys think. I also have every mk2 manuel available.
#16
Any help guys would be greatly appreciated.......so I can plan up my weekend with a to do list
#17
No reply or help Thursday bump....come on any advice so I can dub too