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Thread: Official ABA 16V stroker engine thread

  1. Member SirSpectre's Avatar
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    04-19-2012 09:46 PM #36
    Easy to install, higher resistance, lower voltage than what i got. Longer spark duration though. Maybe worth a look
    98 Jetta 2.0 w/ Megasquirt 3/3x fully sequential
    ABA 16vT build thread

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    05-08-2012 12:10 PM #37
    i guess since it's still a stroker setup, im thinking of going suercharged for about 300hp/whp for street fun car as my project car. i was thinking of a 1.8t engine arranged for a supercharger setup as they seem to flow better than the 16v at lower rpms, and with a supercharger youre not looking to rev as high, but then after looking at this thread, this would work out about the same and still be a lot cheaper. so i would use the 16v head straight on the aba bottom which gives 8.5:1 compression, with a tdi crank where would the compression be? if i did doubled headgaskets or a headspacer would the crank make up the difference to still get ~9:1 compression. i know tuning and high compression is ok with boost, but as a street setup id rather be a lil safer with the compression just wondering on the insight
    Quote Originally Posted by oilhammer View Post
    No of course not. This is a German car. It would be called 'Failtronic'.

  3. Member fredybender's Avatar
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    05-08-2012 04:33 PM #38
    Quote Originally Posted by TREKSportMK3 View Post
    i guess since it's still a stroker setup, im thinking of going suercharged for about 300hp/whp for street fun car as my project car. i was thinking of a 1.8t engine arranged for a supercharger setup as they seem to flow better than the 16v at lower rpms, and with a supercharger youre not looking to rev as high, but then after looking at this thread, this would work out about the same and still be a lot cheaper. so i would use the 16v head straight on the aba bottom which gives 8.5:1 compression, with a tdi crank where would the compression be? if i did doubled headgaskets or a headspacer would the crank make up the difference to still get ~9:1 compression. i know tuning and high compression is ok with boost, but as a street setup id rather be a lil safer with the compression just wondering on the insight
    Mix & match your components with the proper dimensionning for each components here:
    http://www.not2fast.com/vw/stuff/vw_engines.shtml

    You have to CC your heads, and your choice of pistons with proper deck height IMHO:
    Its not a "slap on" thing.
    After you have the right information for gasket thickness taking in consideration volume, and targeted C/R, then delaminate anABA gasket to obtain necessary clearance & C/R.

  4. Member TREKSportMK3's Avatar
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    05-09-2012 11:42 AM #39
    Quote Originally Posted by fredybender View Post
    Mix & match your components with the proper dimensionning for each components here:
    http://www.not2fast.com/vw/stuff/vw_engines.shtml

    You have to CC your heads, and your choice of pistons with proper deck height IMHO:
    Its not a "slap on" thing.
    After you have the right information for gasket thickness taking in consideration volume, and targeted C/R, then delaminate anABA gasket to obtain necessary clearance & C/R.
    i had to look back at your setup to make sure, but you used the 144 ros and had the pistons machined to clear the deck, i figure the aba pistons machined plus being that high would definately need valve reliefs (supposedly with a 16v thrown on the aba you most of the time dont need the reliefs) so that would lower compression as well, i think youre right tho, there are too many variables as you have big valves an you've cc'ed a lot of stuff, i think it might be easier to use the 136 rods with the 9a pitsons, as a low compression setup a o of the high performance variables change as youre are made with every little move you make to free 1hp at a time if necessary, mine is much less precise as the blower will give most of the performance. dont get me wrong tho, i respect your build and i love the mk1 rocco too

    *edit: for some reason i was thinking the 9a rods werent 144, but 9a pistons do have a higher compression in an aba/16v, with a 92.8mm crank you have
    aba rods, abf pistons 10:1 compression
    aba rods, 9a pistons 9.0:1 compression
    aba rods, aba pistons 8.5:1 comression

    im almost certain youd have to use 136 rods to shorten the stroke to get you below the deck and also reach the right compression as the 144 would only work for you NA guys unless some serious porting was done to the pistons to lower compression down enough for safe boost on 93 octane
    Last edited by TREKSportMK3; 05-09-2012 at 11:51 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by oilhammer View Post
    No of course not. This is a German car. It would be called 'Failtronic'.

  5. Member fredybender's Avatar
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    05-09-2012 04:58 PM #40
    I would strongly recommend using the ABA rods:
    The rod to stroke ratio, is below minimum IMO in a 9A; throw in a stroker crank, and its just bad engineering: The weak link are the G's produced by the rods, reduce the rod length, and you increase the G's exponentially. Remember a rod usually handles close to 2000 G's.

    The only reason I machined my pistons is to clear the squish band, not the deck height, and I used ABF 13.5:1 C/R pistons from Wossner at 84mm.

    Hope these infos help out in your decisions.

  6. Member TREKSportMK3's Avatar
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    07-20-2012 12:33 PM #41
    alright, an if you were to just build an aba 16v dd, not for performance, would it be easier/cheaper to get a set of abf pistons to throw in, or get a 95.5 tdi crank and 9a pistons with the aaba rods, will have to do some machining, but considering abf pistons are around 500 anyway maybe it would be cheaper to stroke it and maybe even get a slight bump in performance
    Quote Originally Posted by oilhammer View Post
    No of course not. This is a German car. It would be called 'Failtronic'.

  7. 11-05-2012 12:46 AM #42
    I was looking into building a aba stroker 16v and running it on motronic. Changing over the crank pick up wheel looks straight forward. The tdi crank has a oil pump drive gear which I pressed off. I'm not sure what crank sprocket to run. The tdi crank has a flat on the end to locate the sprocket and the 16v sprocket has a notch to locate it. Also the tdi crank nose sticks out about 1/2" farther than the aba crank nose. I was thinking that a machine shop could modify the crank nose on the tdi by shortening it and machining a flat to run the tdi sprocket. It looks about the same width as a 16v sprocket. I hope that made some sense Just curious what other did to get around this problem.

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    11-05-2012 10:21 AM #43
    Quote Originally Posted by vwmk1gti View Post
    curious what other did to get around this problem.
    I brought an ABA crank and the tdi crank to the shop and said make it happen! Don't forget to let them know how important it is to orient the keyway correctly. Charged me $80

  9. Member MKVmyfast's Avatar
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    11-26-2012 10:06 PM #44
    I'm in the process of doing this exact same build. Only had enough time to read a few post but posting so I can read the rest later and hopefully get some really useful info

    Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2

  10. 12-08-2012 09:29 AM #45
    i have read this and i like it.
    i want to build a 16v turbo over this winter.
    i have 2 complete 9a engines laying around.
    a complete mk3 TDI shortblock. and i can get an aba for cheap or free.

    i want 200 or so HP out of this because ovr that you need a bigger budget. it is going to be a family hauler/weekend warrior in the summer.

    i already have a 50 mm intake; a header for the time being later that will give way to a turbo exhaust; modified exhaust camshaft to be used as a intake cam. i also have a chipped ecu for motronic.

    i have a CNC machine shop at my disposal ; so not too much trouble to have things made.

    from a conservative HP side of view and also money wise conservatively;

    i gather this combo is the most cost effective??

    aba shortblock; aba rods; 16v piston heads and TDI crank with some work done to the front snout.
    the piston heads might need machining to clear the valves or to set the CR at the desired number?

    i understand the rods have to be rubushed to fit the 16v piston heads.

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