Swaggerwagon (a serial)

[aoj2108]

I was wondering if they ever had a 2.0l cluster with MFA.

They do in Europe. I saw a 2002 "Last Edition Golf Cabriolet" in Portugal with MFA. It wasn't even a 2.0 but a 1.6

it just BUGS me that the ABS light is all the way over in it's own place, when my cluster has a perfectly good ABS light going unused.

A while back I removed the ABS panel to place my Corrado spoiler switch there and tried to relocate it to the cluster. I also wired up a rear fog light and after I wired it to the rear fog light indicator in the cluster I actually found the wire that lights up the ABS bulb but had no idea how I would wire it up when the ABS panel had 3 wires . Maybe I'll give it another shot someday.

Also, I know this is a Cabby-specific question (I already asked over there), but power folding mirrors... my rear window switch has a power folding mirror icon in the center button

Can't help you there but I did a little research of my own and struck out. Mk3.5 and Mk4 mirror caps and frames have "3B" part numbers which is a B5 Passat/Audi part number so if you can find a B5 or a B5.5 Passat with folding mirrors then it is totally possible to do it on a Mk3.5 When I visited Portugal I saw many parked Mk4s and B5s, some with folded mirrors and some without, so it was hard to tell if they actually have the feature or if they were just manually folded by the owners (a common practice in the insanely crowded streets of Europe)

Other mod plans are to ... switch the always-on mirror heaters to the defroster power,

I had no idea that they were on at all times. I recently swapped out my passenger mirror for a stubby and had to remove the base and reroute the wires through the stubby frame. Wish I knew about this earlier

....maybe joey mod the headlights (if I'm feeling adventurous),

I had doubts about joey-modding my headlights but it was well worth it when I did. I do not yet have pics of the car with both of them installed since I did this just last week but if you look closely, I installed Mk6 headlight bulb covers with the emblem on it


Got them for about $15 shipped from "sukanas" and painted them black

maybe black rub strips... what do people use to paint those?

When I bought my rear euro bumper for my 3.5 Cabrio, it came with unpainted black plastic moldings. I did not like the look of them since they did not match the rest of my molding that I had painted so I kept my stockers. All of my moldings were sprayed with RUST-OLEUM "Flat Protective Enamel" and it looks awesome. By far the best "textured" look you can get. found a photo of it online, it's "Flat Black "7776"

[VDub2625]

Wgat do you mean by vr coil? Early dizzy motor coil or what?

Yep. I got one from a 93 Passat in the junkyard a few years ago. I installed it in my Mk2.

I would like to try and get coil packs, and the ECU should be capable of powering them (since it does on a VR), I would just need to know way more about chip programming than I do.

They do in Europe. I saw a 2002 "Last Edition Golf Cabriolet" in Portugal with MFA. It wasn't even a 2.0 but a 1.6

There's a guy around here trying to install MFA into his 1.6, he would like to know that I need a Euro 2.0 cluster though, hopefully the MPG should be close! I think they got the ABA in the 3.5 Cabriolet over there.

A while back I removed the ABS panel to place my Corrado spoiler switch there and tried to relocate it to the cluster. I also wired up a rear fog light and after I wired it to the rear fog light indicator in the cluster I actually found the wire that lights up the ABS bulb but had no idea how I would wire it up when the ABS panel had 3 wires . Maybe I'll give it another shot someday.

THe ABS panel actually has 4 wires: ground, 15 power, e-brake signal, and ABS light signal. I tried wiring the ABS light signal to the cluster ABS light, but it worked in reverse: lighted when the car was fine, and turned off during the test phase. it was odd. I would need to see a Polo wiring diagram (I assume it's a Polo light since even Euro Mk3s came with the ABS light on the side).

Can't help you there but I did a little research of my own and struck out. Mk3.5 and Mk4 mirror caps and frames have "3B" part numbers which is a B5 Passat/Audi part number so if you can find a B5 or a B5.5 Passat with folding mirrors then it is totally possible to do it on a Mk3.5 When I visited Portugal I saw many parked Mk4s and B5s, some with folded mirrors and some without, so it was hard to tell if they actually have the feature or if they were just manually folded by the owners (a common practice in the insanely crowded streets of Europe)

I think it was another thread, maybe the rare parts thread, but I posted the list of Euro 3.5 power folding mirror part numbers. Some Euro people told me it's insanely expensive even for them though.

I had no idea that they were on at all times. I recently swapped out my passenger mirror for a stubby and had to remove the base and reroute the wires through the stubby frame. Wish I knew about this earlier

The mod is easier to do from behind the fuse box anyway. Interesting note, that 2.5 I found in the junkyard had manual mirrors, but they were still heated!

I had doubts about joey-modding my headlights but it was well worth it when I did. I do not yet have pics of the car with both of them installed since I did this just last week but if you look closely, I installed Mk6 headlight bulb covers with the emblem on it

Wow, that's awesome. I'll track those down!

[uzi did it]

seriously car looks good, keep up the work !

[VDub2625]

thanks!

Yesterday at my friend Kev's house... VR swapped California Mk3 (CARB legal swap!) and my Cali Cabrio they're both a long way from home!

(he says it's not photo worthy but he's very wrong, it's an amazingly well done car!)

I drove to Maine last week... and this happened while I was up there...


Was getting on the highway when POP!, and I saw bits flying down the road behind me. We found it, and used a hose clamp from the AIR pump ot hold it in place! I drove home like that, lol.

[BlueDevilCabby]

^^ have yet to have that happen...but I do carry a metal fork in my glove box just in case lol

[vento86]

Mine broke also. I useda 13mm socket and some random metal from my "I drive a mk3" tool/random crap bag

[VDub2625]

I didn't realize this was such a common problem in Mk3s. I have NEVER heard of it in a Mk2. I think it's becuase the Mk3 is one piece of metal, while the Mk2 uses 2 stacked pieces (one flat, and one with the dish to grab the rubber). The double thickness helps. Unfortunately the cable ends are different (Mk3 is thicker), so I can't use the Mk2 parts, but maybe if i dremel it out.

[VDub2625]

Been a while since I posted. Not much has gone down, though I have gotten a few more items for the black interior swap, looks a bit silly now but it'll be better after I finish.

I got bored and I was pretty up on the reefer so i decided to take apart my heater controls I have a spare set from my old Passat B3, so I was interested in the changes and differences. I noticed the lighting takes place from a different location on the Passat vs. Mk3 heater controls. I was hoping I could get an extra light in there to brighten things up a bit. So i completely disassembled the Passat and Mk3 controls to "blend" them into one. I added the wiring traces, and the center knob control, to get the front-replaceable bulb the Passat uses. Unfortunately, the center knob indicator is rendered in green plastic on the Passat, so that kinda spoils my plans for now I also modified the fan switch for the non-AC style that wraps all the way around for off. Dunno why, just more boredom it's all reversible, it's just cool to take something apart and figure out how it works.

I was wondering if anyone had pics of the back of non-AC heater controls so I can get a better look into how the recirc cable is routed on those cars. I can see there's an extra spot for the cable but I'm not sure how that works.

[96BlKjEt]

Did you ever get the ABS light on the cluster to work? I would love to get rid of the light on the side of my switch. And thats weird about the heated mirrors, on my GLX and my friends mk4 GLI the mirrors and nozzels only are activated when the defroster switch is pressed on. I guess VW thought even in the summer the glass needs to be heated on Cabbys LOL

[VDub2625]

Actually in Mk3s the washer nozzles are heated all the time. That makes sense since it'd take time to build up enough heat to keep those melted. The mirrors, though, is an odd practice. In Mk4s, you spin the mirror adjust knob from L, to "off", to R, to "heat". I think. I know you do that in Mk5s.

The 3.5 I found in the junkyard had manual mirrors, but they were heated! I thought that was so odd.

No, I never got the ABS cluster light to work. Still haven't tracked down a Polo wiring diagram. I figure, worst case scenario, I can take the insides out of my ABS light and wire the bulb pin to output to the cluster. That should work.

[VDub2625]

I've noticed the car has a tiny twitch at idle. occasioanlly it'll feel like a tiny stumble, sometimes it's a big one though. Without being able to adjust ignition timing, and with no CEL, I'm a bit of a loss as to why this is. Recently changed plugs. Any ideas? Maybe just bad motor mounts?

[Pineapplegti !]

Probably your throttle body being.. um dumb. Good to see you in a 3

[VDub2625]

Thanks! I tried to do a throttle adaptation, but I unplugged my speed sensor at the same time (to change trans fluid) and forgot to plug it back in, and the instructions i read said it needs to be brought up to 40mph in second gear or something. Any specific instructions you know work?

So I swapped my tail lights to the European layout today, if only because I could.

My outer tail light on one side had a bad bulb, that worked if you flicked the light. it was annoying me so I pulled both outer bulbs a few weeks ago. Today, I finished the conversion, by cutting the outer hole in the tail light a bit bigger:


This is half done. There is a beveled edge on the tail light reflector, I just used an xacto knife to cut slots to the edge of the bevel, then sliced them off in chunks. OEM style!

Left is the USA layout, right is the euro. Hard to see becuase it was just too damn bright and sunny today!


After that, all I did was swap the extra tail light and brake light wires, and on the driver side I had to move the wires that feed the passenger and third brake lights too. I would like to wire up a rear fog at some point, but I put the tail light to feed the inner bulb position for now (which has no bulb in it) so I didn't have to cut any wiring.

[aoj2108]

I switched over to Euro layout to run my rear fog

[VDub2625]

Got real high and did this last night:


It was surprisingly easy. Just cut some pieces out that didn't allow the switch to fit (it fit perfectly in between the tabs that hold the blank on), and drilled holes with my dremel. I had to modify the vent for a bigger hole too, and it does seem the dash needs to be trimmed inside just a tad (nothing to ruin it functionally).

[DubLuv1]

nice work so far!

[VDub2625]

Thanks!

I thought she deserved at least one high-res pic.

[VDub2625]

Where is the outside air temperature sensor located in a Mk3?

[Pineapplegti !]

Driver side attached to the wiper motor. That is the ambient temp for the a/c.. as for as the mfa temp sensor I am not sure.. maybe same location.

[VDub2625]

Oops, meant ambient. Got one from an 88 Carat in the junkyard the other day (perfect car since the ambient sensor harness is not embedded in any other harness), and I want to wire it up for the future MFA install. They usually have them down low in the bumper region.

[miatafreak]

Oops, meant ambient. Got one from an 88 Carat in the junkyard the other day (perfect car since the ambient sensor harness is not embedded in any other harness), and I want to wire it up for the future MFA install. They usually have them down low in the bumper region.

I believe passenger side in the lower bumper grille.

[VDub2625]

Got a few things done today.

Modified the harnesses so that the rear fog is almost functional. More work than I anticipated. I modified the headlight switch internals (involved swapping around surface mount resistors, an LED, etc), wired it from the headlight switch to the P connector, and added a spur that sends power to the icon in the cluster, via the fuse boxjust like OEM on polos and transporters. Now I just need to run a wire to the rear, and modify the headlight switch for two clicks out instead of one. I don't need/want the euro switch because I like the icon in the cluster instead of on the switch.

Also (hopefully) fixed my cruise control by re soldering the capacitors on the board. And added a TON of range to the alarm with the antenna mod.

Good day

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

[VDub2625]

Woot!



I got a 100001 pic too, but it was too blurry. I was distracted for the 100,000th mile, lol.

[VDub2625]

All of the lights, all of the lights...


Got my ABS light working yesterday my friend bought a new ABS warning light for his car, but the bulb was dead. So I seized the opportunity, and gave him my old ABS light, and wired up a connector to the broken bulb. Connected that to the wire I had installed previously. The circuit board sits in the white box, above the fuse box. I just ripped the face off and tied a knot in the wire so it can't be yanked out (as it's a delicate connection).

The only lights I'm missing are brake pad wear (not hooked up, but it is wired for when I swap ), airbag (taken out becuase it's constantly on), and low fuel (obviously works but not on because I'm not low on gas).

[VDub2625]

So i drove all over yesterday. providence, to newport, to Boston, with the top down. It was awesome.

I did fill up my tank during this journey and my gas gauge is now acting funny. It still showed almost empty after the fill-up. Then it started moving very slowly to 7/8 full (during an hour drive). Now it seems to just sorta move slowly, about an 8th less than should be in the tank. I think the gauge is messed up.

Also, the damn shifter stick bushing blew out and there's a metal clunk when shifting into 2nd and 4th. And the suspension bushings feel completely shot. It's all begging for a 5 lug/02A overhaul...

[VDub2625]

No real updates, just got a stubby antenna and Bosch Icon wipers. Looks a lot cleaner in the cowl area now. I would like to shave the antenna at some point but I'd rather have an antenna than a block off.

Also, first REALLY hot days of the year... was 95 yesterday. Idling for 1/2hr in a parking lot with the AC on, the temp gauge crept past 3/4. The idle got erratic too, and it pinged a bit when I quickly revved it. The AC even kicked off it got so hot. But back on the highways it was fine

[VDub2625]

So I want to upgrade my motor mounts. I was thinking of going full VR6, but there are some questions I had. It seems the front subframe is different between ABA, and VR6 (though California ABA uses the VR6 part, it seems). Are there any physical differences I should be aware of?

For the motor mounts themselves, there are a lot of choices:
Front ABA 1H0199609G (brown)
Front VR6 1H0199609K
Front AAZ 1H0199609B
Front AHU & 1Z 1H0199609J (Mk3 97+)
Front ACC 1H0199609F

Left Rear Cabrio 191199381A
Left Rear AAC Manual, AAZ, ABA 357199402B
Left Rear Mk3 TDI, Passat TDI & ABA manual, VR6 All 3A0199402
Left Rear Mk3 AAC Automatic, Passat ABA & TDI Auto 357199381C

Right Rear ABA & AAZ Manual Trans 1H0199262B
Right Rear AHU & 1Z 1H0199262L (97+)
Right Rear Golf, Corrado VR6 1H0199262K
Right Rear ACC All, ABA & AAZ Auto Trans 1H0199262A
Right Rear Passat VR6 Manual Trans, Auto Trans to mid 96 357199262E
Right Rear Passat VR6 Auto Trans from mid 96 357199262
Right Rear Passat ABA 357199262A
Right Rear Passat TDI 357199262D

Right Cabrio 1E0199732B

Left Cabrio Manual Trans 1E0199731A

Bold are the ones I was thinking about purchasing. When it comes down to the rear passenger mount, there are a lot of choices. I was thinking of just going with Mk3 VR6 there too, but are the Passat ones maybe a better choice? I'm guessing those are hydro while the Mk3 ones are probably mostly rubber.

Also, in Europe, the Cabrio had a TDI option, and the two special mounts listed above have what I can only assume is a more durable version, for a bit more money. I'm wondering if it's worth it.

[VDub2625]

Good haul at the yard today! I picked up:

hood mat
black 99 (no lock button) 3.5 (grain) door pockets (speaker grilles missing )
3.5 (grain) console (rear console cover was missing)
black kick panels, middle and rear
black tops of the rear cards (where top folds down)
black seat belt buckles (might go back for black seat belts too)

other odds n ends too. My friend picked up a Nardi wheel out of a gray market 84 500SEL, awesome car!

Need to find other little black bits here and there. Someone wrenched open the black glove box but I did get a chrome glove box lock to replace my black one.

[QuantumSyncro]

So I want to upgrade my motor mounts. I was thinking of going full VR6, but there are some questions I had. It seems the front subframe is different between ABA, and VR6 (though California ABA uses the VR6 part, it seems). Are there any physical differences I should be aware of?

For the motor mounts themselves, there are a lot of choices:
Front ABA 1H0199609G (brown)
Front VR6 1H0199609K
Front AAZ 1H0199609B
Front AHU & 1Z 1H0199609J (Mk3 97+)
Front ACC 1H0199609F

Left Rear Cabrio 191199381A
Left Rear AAC Manual, AAZ, ABA 357199402B
Left Rear Mk3 TDI, Passat TDI & ABA manual, VR6 All 3A0199402
Left Rear Mk3 AAC Automatic, Passat ABA & TDI Auto 357199381C

Right Rear ABA & AAZ Manual Trans 1H0199262B
Right Rear AHU & 1Z 1H0199262L (97+)
Right Rear Golf, Corrado VR6 1H0199262K
Right Rear ACC All, ABA & AAZ Auto Trans 1H0199262A
Right Rear Passat VR6 Manual Trans, Auto Trans to mid 96 357199262E
Right Rear Passat VR6 Auto Trans from mid 96 357199262
Right Rear Passat ABA 357199262A
Right Rear Passat TDI 357199262D

Right Cabrio 1E0199732B

Left Cabrio Manual Trans 1E0199731A

Bold are the ones I was thinking about purchasing. When it comes down to the rear passenger mount, there are a lot of choices. I was thinking of just going with Mk3 VR6 there too, but are the Passat ones maybe a better choice? I'm guessing those are hydro while the Mk3 ones are probably mostly rubber.

Also, in Europe, the Cabrio had a TDI option, and the two special mounts listed above have what I can only assume is a more durable version, for a bit more money. I'm wondering if it's worth it.

I would think that the tdi only mounts would be the softest ones and not the best option if firmer engine mounting is what you're after...imo.

[VDub2625]

I don't need super firm... strength/longevity is all I'm after. Softness is ok, it's a convertible, lol. But i figured the VR ones were the best compromise of strength and softness.

[Pineapplegti !]

All oem mounts are trash... Get some bfis and call it good. If you stay away from the hd trans mount aka ( g60) You wont feel the vibrations.

[aoj2108]

Been a while since I've hit up this thread but apparently I missed a lot of your updates and I have so many questions for you since you share my passion for the 3.5 Cabrio. I'll seperate every question so that you can respond to each one individually

I've noticed the car has a tiny twitch at idle. occasioanlly it'll feel like a tiny stumble, sometimes it's a big one though. Without being able to adjust ignition timing, and with no CEL, I'm a bit of a loss as to why this is. Recently changed plugs. Any ideas? Maybe just bad motor mounts?

I am experiencing this same exact problem! You perfectly described it to the last detail and I did not even bother posting up about it because I figured no one would have a clue why it does it. I have not wired anything extra in my car that would draw any extra current but occasionally this does happen to me at idle when the car is still cold. I never pay it no mind though because it never happens while I'm driving . If worse comes to worse I was thinking maybe a "ground strap mod" would solve the problem.

Today, I finished the conversion, by cutting the outer hole in the tail light a bit bigger:


This is half done. There is a beveled edge on the tail light reflector, I just used an xacto knife to cut slots to the edge of the bevel, then sliced them off in chunks. OEM style![/IMG]

I was wondering why you even had to do that because my smoked tails already had the bulb cutouts but then I remembered that my Cabrio came with the stock amber tails and I had purchased my smoked set from a GTI. I can't remember if the stockers that I sold had the extra slots closed off

All of the lights, all of the lights...



Got my ABS light working yesterday my friend bought a new ABS warning light for his car, but the bulb was dead. So I seized the opportunity, and gave him my old ABS light, and wired up a connector to the broken bulb. Connected that to the wire I had installed previously. The circuit board sits in the white box, above the fuse box. I just ripped the face off and tied a knot in the wire so it can't be yanked out (as it's a delicate connection).

I would love some more information on how you pulled this off . I tried to relocate the ABS light to the cluster because I needed the space for this...

When I realized it was not possible to wire the ABS straight up I decided that I was going to sort of just cram in the circuit board inside the cluster somehow and wire the signal wires to a bulb in the ABS socket. I'm guessing this is what you did. I'd love some photos if you have some

BTW, speaking of clusters, I recently did this. I cracked it open and replaced the gray frame with a black one from a silver-faced VR6 cluster to get the black on black look and then I swapped in a Canadian/Mexican speedo gauge face with the large km/h and small MPH, and a Euro ºC coolant temp gauge. I wanted to go full Euro and get a speedo gauge face in just km/h but that would had been very confusing for me on the road

So I want to upgrade my motor mounts...

Right Cabrio 1E0199732B

Left Cabrio Manual Trans 1E0199731A

Also, in Europe, the Cabrio had a TDI option, and the two special mounts listed above have what I can only assume is a more durable version, for a bit more money. I'm wondering if it's worth it.

I'm glad you mentioned the extra Cabrio mounts because I've been doing some research on this recently. My Cabrio is an Auto with a 01M (my non-stick driving wife was the PO of this car) and I have about 95% of the parts for a 02A manual swap and I was wondering about the "extra" Cabrio trans mount. I've replaced the extra Cabrio mount that sits by the timing belt cover once so I know about that one but since my car is an Auto it does not have the extra trans mount. In fact, I've never been able to peek underneath the battery tray to check if the mounting bracket for the motor mount is even there. When I finally do the 02A swap in about a week or so, I'd love to be able to employ the use of this extra mount instead of having to buy one of those long Corrado brace arms that fastens the trans to the rear trans mount, part# 357-199-356. I already bought the extra Cabrio trans mount, part# 1E0-199-731-A, so I'm hoping the mounting bracket is there. I now just need to go to the stealership to buy the bolts I need to brace the mount to the trans. Here is a scan of my Bentley that shows the mount in Fig. 32...

The bolt labeled with the letter "A" in the Bentley diagram above is part# N-905-969-02 and the size is M10x55. The nuts labeled with the letter "B" are part# N-015-100-2 and are size M10. I've searched the ends of the earth for the part number for those two bolts that fasten the mount to the trans and could not find them at first. Obviously if the nuts are M10 then those bolts are too but I wanted to be sure how long they are in millimeters.

The bolt labeled with an "A" in the Bentley is labeled "38" in the ETKA illustration above and the mystery bolts are labeled "40a". This proves they are different bolts but the ETKA has no description of the part# anywhere! So what I did was dig up a ETKA of a VR6 Corrado with a 02A trans and voila! There was a description there of the bolts that fastens the long trans brace arm from the rear mount to the trans. Part# N-100-487-03, size M10x60. Looks like the same bolts .

Now I understand you have a 020 cable trans but you did say you're interested in a 02A swap in the future so I'm hoping the extra Cabrio mount is not specifically designed for the 020 and it clears the bulky shift tower in the 02A. Otherwise I will have to scrap my original plans and just use the damn Corrado brace arm.

I'm also curious to know if it's possible to use BOTH the Cabrio trans mount and the Corrado brace arm in tandem. Take a look at the Bentley scan that I posted. Fig. 30. is the Corrado brace arm and Fig. 32. is the Cabrio trans mount. They look like they could work together but is there such a thing as "too much" when using mounts? Especially since I have a solid G60 rear trans mount sitting around that I'm planning on using in this swap.

Sorry for the long script there but I'm hoping you can help me out with some of this stuff so I can get crackin' and finish some of my projects

[VDub2625]

I am experiencing this same exact problem! You perfectly described it to the last detail and I did not even bother posting up about it because I figured no one would have a clue why it does it. I have not wired anything extra in my car that would draw any extra current but occasionally this does happen to me at idle when the car is still cold. I never pay it no mind though because it never happens while I'm driving . If worse comes to worse I was thinking maybe a "ground strap mod" would solve the problem.[/color]

What ground strap mod is this? What I figured it was was maybe the knock sensor was getting a "twitch" from the shaking of the engine. It has subsided recently (or maybe I'm just used to it now?). I figure I'll never get it running perfectly but I'm approaching 30mpg on the highway (with bad rubber everywhere) so nothing seems really amiss.

I was wondering why you even had to do that because my smoked tails already had the bulb cutouts but then I remembered that my Cabrio came with the stock amber tails and I had purchased my smoked set from a GTI. I can't remember if the stockers that I sold had the extra slots closed off[/color]

My tails are smoked too, this is a 99 GLS (same as the 00-02 GLX). All US tails have to be cut for the 21w bulb to fit there. Someone must have already modded them, or they are EUro tails maybe? Is there a reflector on the side?

When I realized it was not possible to wire the ABS straight up I decided that I was going to sort of just cram in the circuit board inside the cluster somehow and wire the signal wires to a bulb in the ABS socket. I'm guessing this is what you did. I'd love some photos if you have some

That is exactly what I did. I ran an extra cluster wire to the position on the plug that pwoers the ABS light (I'm sorry, I don't recall it now), that runs down, OEM style, to a plug behind the fuse box. THis plug then connects to a short wire coming out of the stock ABS light housing (which is just sitting loose behind the fuse box), and connects to the bulb post from that housing. THe other side is the BRAKE light circuit, so just follow the trace on the circuit board The one that goes to a bunch of components is the right one I think the reason for all this, instead of just a simpel wire from the ABS computer, is so that the circuitry that "tests" the BRAKE light can also power and test the ABS light when the ignition is turned on. They both go out together.

I cracked it open and replaced the gray frame with a black one from a silver-faced VR6 cluster to get the black on black look and then I swapped in a Canadian/Mexican speedo gauge face with the large km/h and small MPH, and a Euro ºC coolant temp gauge. I wanted to go full Euro and get a speedo gauge face in just km/h but that would had been very confusing for me on the road [/color]

I'm reasonably sure all 3.5 clusters are black face/black housing? It's definitely darker than the normal gray housings from Mk3s. I also didn't know there was a km/mi face. All Mk2 Canadian speedos I've seen are just km, I assumed Mk3 was the same.

[color=blue]I'm glad you mentioned the extra Cabrio mounts because I've been doing some research on this recently....In fact, I've never been able to peek underneath the battery tray to check if the mounting bracket for the motor mount is even there...Now I understand you have a 020 cable trans but you did say you're interested in a 02A swap in the future so I'm hoping the extra Cabrio mount is not specifically designed for the 020 and it clears the bulky shift tower in the 02A. Otherwise I will have to scrap my original plans and just use the damn Corrado brace arm.

SHort answer: yes, the bodies should all have the extra mount. I doubt they'd make a completely different unibody just for autos, that is not like VW. I have an 020 rod shift, not cable. But I do know 02As have the extra mount on the end of the trans becuase my Passat VR6 had it. VW used those mounts in motorsport cars (the engine and trans were bolted to the frame, rather than the subframe on their rally cars). So they should all be in the same place, since they used the 02A on the Mk2 Golf G60 rallye cars as well.

I'm also curious to know if it's possible to use BOTH the Cabrio trans mount and the Corrado brace arm in tandem. Take a look at the Bentley scan that I posted. Fig. 30. is the Corrado brace arm and Fig. 32. is the Cabrio trans mount. They look like they could work together but is there such a thing as "too much" when using mounts? Especially since I have a solid G60 rear trans mount sitting around that I'm planning on using in this swap.

There is no need to use the corrado brace arm that I can see, especially if that end is seperately mounted. Some Mk2s (not all) had a brace arm like that too, but I always leave it uninstalled becuase it looks like crap. I don't think it really supports anything anyway (I mean, the diff case and 5th gear case are both rigidly bolted to/part of the trans case, so why bother?).

[aoj2108]

[QUOTE=VDub2625;78512604]What ground strap mod is this? What I figured it was was maybe the knock sensor was getting a "twitch" from the shaking of the engine. It has subsided recently (or maybe I'm just used to it now?). I figure I'll never get it running perfectly but I'm approaching 30mpg on the highway (with bad rubber everywhere) so nothing seems really amiss.

I've only read about the "ground strap mod" once or twice so I'm not entirely sure if it's even worth the trouble. There are a couple of threads on it here on the Tex with mixed reviews.

That is exactly what I did. I ran an extra cluster wire to the position on the plug that pwoers the ABS light (I'm sorry, I don't recall it now), that runs down, OEM style, to a plug behind the fuse box. THis plug then connects to a short wire coming out of the stock ABS light housing (which is just sitting loose behind the fuse box), and connects to the bulb post from that housing. THe other side is the BRAKE light circuit, so just follow the trace on the circuit board The one that goes to a bunch of components is the right one I think the reason for all this, instead of just a simpel wire from the ABS computer, is so that the circuitry that "tests" the BRAKE light can also power and test the ABS light when the ignition is turned on. They both go out together.

I kinda get what you're trying to say so after I'm done with my current projects I'll give it another shot and hit you up if I run into any trouble

I'm reasonably sure all 3.5 clusters are black face/black housing? It's definitely darker than the normal gray housings from Mk3s. I also didn't know there was a km/mi face. All Mk2 Canadian speedos I've seen are just km, I assumed Mk3 was the same.

I never noticed that the 3.5 housing was darker than Mk3 but it is definitley not as dark as the ones that come in silver-faced gauges. Here is a photo of me playing around with a bunch of extra clusters I had laying around. I did all 4 possible combinations to see which one looks best...

Top Left is an OEM cluster with gray face/black gauges
Bottom Left an OEM cluster with black face/silver gauges
Top Right is a hybrid cluster with gray face/silver gauges (not too bad looking actually)
Bottom Right is a hybrid cluster with black face/black gauges (The one I ultimately chose)

SHort answer: yes, the bodies should all have the extra mount. I doubt they'd make a completely different unibody just for autos, that is not like VW. I have an 020 rod shift, not cable. But I do know 02As have the extra mount on the end of the trans becuase my Passat VR6 had it. VW used those mounts in motorsport cars (the engine and trans were bolted to the frame, rather than the subframe on their rally cars). So they should all be in the same place, since they used the 02A on the Mk2 Golf G60 rallye cars as well.

that actually makes sense. thanks for the info
[QUOTE]

[VDub2625]

Bottom Right is a hybrid cluster with black face/black gauges (The one I ultimately chose)[/COLOR]

Mine looks like this, as does a second 3.5 cluster I pulled from a junkyard. Definitely not gray. The regular Mk3s had gray on black, but the 3.5s were all black, every one I've seen.