Special delivery!!! Its home.
So this past wknd I purchased my 1st aircooled vehicle! A 1978 Champagne Edition Bus. Looking to restore it and see how it goes. Granted I have only worked on watercooled vw's but I am up for the challenge. The bus was not running so I have to tackle that 1st. Its stick shift w/ the 2.0 ltr engine fuel injected. I have a vision and trying to make it happen def wouldnt mind going disc brakes all around and possibly air ride susp. A plus is that the bus came w/ dealer installed A/C which I am def going to try and get that working as well. I was told everything is original. So let the games begin!!! This is what it looked like when I brought it home...
First thing I did was strip the whole rear of the interior just to see how the floors were.
Also started to degrease the interior and I gotta say its cleaning up pretty nice!!
to be continued...
I've seen worse. Good luck with it, the old bay windows need some love. Interior and floors don't look too bad. The L-jet injection system is one of the easiest to work on. Where does the rat's nest of red wire coming off the coil go? To the tailight? It looks like it's missing the rear foam seal for the engine compartment, it's a strip of foam to close up that gap between the engine tin and the rear and side aprons around it so when you get it running you'll want to replace that.
A good resource for info.:
Those rims are 5x112mm pattern same as Mercedes...ahem:
got one of those here in RI..painted yellow and a slide sunroof,no motor and gutted inside....very very little rust too.
...yours is pretty toasty bro' i'd save her for parts though.
pm if you interested.
Last edited by Schell R32; 02-29-2012 at 05:55 PM.
curious as to why you're going with an air ride setup. the lowest bays are rolling static.
if you want the versatility that air ride provides in being able to easily adjust your ride height, then yeah i get that....but if you want a seriously low riding bay air isn't going to be the best choice for getting seriously low.
Nah just looking out for ya...hate to see you jump in and yet be able to save some time and money in the end result. Just throwing it out there for yooz.
That air cond. Set up inside is rare...never seen one there,only umber the dash.
that a/c setup you have isn't that rare...what's rare is the section over the driver. that piece of the puzzle is rare as piss. generally the center section was just by itself with two controls that were on a separate pod that got mounted on the dash somewhere....but to have that section that goes up to the front of the bus is very rare. the middle sections will show up from time to time on samba but not so much for the front. you can retro fit what you have to take a newer r134 setup easily enough.
thanks! i'm glad to hear the aba swap thread keeps helping people
take out your iphone and look at my front ride height
there's different variations of how to do a beam raise but they will all yield the same result. they aren't for the timid...they will require more work than money, so it's a great option for those on a budget with some fab skills. right now including materials i think i'm at around $300 into my entire suspension setup.
current stance on 17's:
Last edited by A1steaksauce; 02-29-2012 at 10:33 PM.
i'd practice up on your welding skills. mig isn't that hard to get down good enough to make a project like this happen. without the ability to weld laying out a bay off store bought beams and rear end parts will only take you down so far. your stock front tubs will quickly limit how low you can take the front regardless of how low of a profile tire you run and how wide the rear end is will limit you out back. if you can weld you can overcome those simple issues.
my setup is 7in beam raise out front narrowed a bunch (forget how much ) running shocks, 4in tubs up front, raised steering box 1.5in, 4.5in drop plates out back, 2.5in narrowed out back, raised transmission/motor 2in, and some rear tubs (currently in the works)...and i'm on 17's. if i went with 15's i wouldn't have had to do as much work, but still would have had to do most of what's on my list it was cheap to do just time consuming. pretty much anyone with a decent mig, drill press, angle grinder and a garage could pull off what i built.
...the fab and stance....and s--t everything about A1's bus is exactly what i would do.
not a shiney a--,straight as a lazer deal...been there done that and honestly it takes the wind out of your sails for sure.
my dumpy a--,Sage green,beat to s--t transporter is the bomb,with her 2 liter fuel injected,auto trans an all!!!!
A1,that center section is the rare yes?...or the whole entire roof piece?...either way you would never see that here as the weather never sold the air condition systems as much...
getting into these bus things more and more...i know nothing about em and i think thats whats got my interest...my buddy Nate here in Mass has probablt one of the nicest Bays in the North east...he's part of Broke-Status club
As far as the suspension you are running is there any bottoming out issues??? I the stance and wondering as far as added weight in the rear how does it measure up. Def am not looking for a scraped underside or bouncing all over. I am def liking the raised beam, def a project I feel I can tackle. So if I ran stock 15's I wouldnt have to touch the front seat panels? Also as far as the rear what did you do? Did you move the trailing arms up a notch or 2? I found this link on the raised beam? Whats your take on it?
Yeah, if you are going to stick with the 2.0 then there is no real point in doing the brake swap (IMO) but I think its a must have if you are going to push 3X the HP with a VR.
what's rare is that middle and front piece over the driver. very rarely do you see that beast. especially in that good of condition.
the weight is something to take into consideration. i mocked up my ride height with me in it. i only roll solo in my aircooled so with me in it i'd only drop the front down an additional half inch up front. i do see myself camping and tossing gear in her so i put her at a slight rake to account for the increase in weight in the rear from camping gear. but generally speaking each additional adult will drop the bus down approx half an inch.
i've seen that build. he's a split window bus so he's running a link pin beam. doing a beam raise with a link pin beam is only going to yield you approx 5in raise. ball joint (what your bus has) beam raise will give you a 7in raise. here's a shot of my setup mid process:
that's 6in solid wall quarter inch tubing, stronger than the frame rail section it's replacing
yes, even if you go 15's you're gonna have to tub the front to get it down. the rear end, not so much...but you're gonna have to raise your seat height up front if you want to get it down even if you went with 14's
my rear end i'm running dropped plates. it moves up the wheel 4.5 inches while retaining the stock geometry....team that together with one or two clicks of the torsions (can't remember exactly how many i did) and you get my ride height.