No aircooled exp.+ 78 Champ. Ed. Bus= Interesting build!!!!

[bansheelos]

I would say the same but then you would get lazy and park this project for another 3 months. .


Glad to see progress tho.

Brother's dont shake, brother's hug!

[bansheelos]

Got out last night and dropped the trans. Next will be yanking the fuel tank then wirewheeling the bay and converting that rust!!!

[bansheelos]

Got the fuel tank out but take a look at the supply and return spouts on the tank in the last picture. Gonna have to do something about them! Whether I run a new ful cell, na fitings or get a set of spouts welded to the old tank.

[JUS_GT_EYEZ]

Rusty Nipples.

[RafCarre12]

I vote going with a cell since the tank was going to need to get modified to clearance for the tripple ph phat engine.

[Gear_Dog]

Rusty Nipples.

Hey that the name of the club behind Rusty Nutz Garage.

[bansheelos]

Lol hopefully I can start sand blasting some parts this week!

[A1steaksauce]

I vote going with a cell since the tank was going to need to get modified to clearance for the tripple ph phat engine.

i agree with that entirely.

and while you're at it you might as well just cut out that support shelf the gas tank sat on. figure that when you get the motor in and mounted properly you can reinstall it via some tweaking and welding then figure out what size fuel tank will fit

[bansheelos]

[bansheelos]

A diamond in the rough!

[bansheelos]

Cleaned off the trans tonight! Made a little bit of a mess.

[DubLuv1]

brought that trans back to life!

[JUS_GT_EYEZ]

So there IS some progress than can be made without spending money huh?


Do Work Los.

[RafCarre12]

imagine THAT!

I may be able to stop over on Sunday as we discussed depending on how well this weekend's mission goes down.

[bansheelos]

brought that trans back to life!

I was doing this when you text me about the starter lol Ice cream for all lol

So there IS some progress than can be made without spending money huh? Do Work Los.

I actually had to buy the wire wheel and purple power. p Trying to put in work, the engine bay is next lol I would love to soda blast the bay but ya gotta pay to play! I will put a little more elbow grease into it lol

imagine THAT!

I may be able to stop over on Sunday as we discussed depending on how well this weekend's mission goes down.

I will pray for you!

[bansheelos]

Before...

After...

[DubLuv1]

now paint them with rust reformer so it wont happen again!

[bansheelos]

now paint them with rust reformer so it wont happen again!

Got out today and wire wheeled the engine bay. You can actually see datenut brown lol Also yanked ALL of the wiring from the donor to start fixing the wiring while im at work!

[A1steaksauce]

you get your adaptor plate yet?

[bansheelos]

you get your adaptor plate yet?

Half way there Sauce! That plate is the missing link... and a crackpipe

[JUS_GT_EYEZ]

You have obviously already obtained the crack pipe.

[bansheelos]

You have obviously already obtained the crack pipe.

You're rt, just found a spare one in the garaje!

[RafCarre12]

is it running yet?

[Colombian Gringo]

[bansheelos]

Getting wiring done while still on the clock!!

Butt, Butt, Butt smh They will be coming off and be soldered back up!

This is what I am left w/ after sifting and weeding out the cancer in that harness! Ready for friction tape!

[DubLuv1]

Nice

[bansheelos]

More cutting in the bay. Yanked the tank floor and some trim. Another dirty rustful day!

[A1steaksauce]

you can cut out that cross support bar that you left untouched. it's not going to be needed and will just be in your way. it's nothing more than an additional transmission brace that would simply hold up the transmission to aid in motor removal. it's not a necessary piece. especially if you need more room for the coolant pieces and/or transmission adaptor section.

also while you're in there you might want to think about doing your frame notches. i mean you're right there.

and i would totally ditch the idea of using the rear stock motor mount brackets. imo they'd be hard pressed to support the weight and torque of the vr.

[bansheelos]

you can cut out that cross support bar that you left untouched. it's not going to be needed and will just be in your way. it's nothing more than an additional transmission brace that would simply hold up the transmission to aid in motor removal. it's not a necessary piece. especially if you need more room for the coolant pieces and/or transmission adaptor section.

also while you're in there you might want to think about doing your frame notches. i mean you're right there.

and i would totally ditch the idea of using the rear stock motor mount brackets. imo they'd be hard pressed to support the weight and torque of the vr.

As far as the cross support I was going to leave that cross support for 2 reasons. #1 Structural rigidity for that rear and #2 It gives me a mounting area on the trans side and all I have to worry about is the crank side which I have been going back and forth w/ designs as to what would take up minimal space, not be such and eye sore also be able to handle the torque. Granted I wont be shredding tires or anything but will def get on it when I want to.
It def does look like a tight squeeze once the engine is in w/ that cross bar as fas as all my cooling hoses at the thermostat housing. The least I have to cut and weld I feel is better for me. Not saying that it wont work for anyone else b/c you have done wonders A1! As far as frame notches, I would def need help w/ those lol

[A1steaksauce]

As far as the cross support I was going to leave that cross support for 2 reasons. #1 Structural rigidity for that rear and #2 It gives me a mounting area on the trans side and all I have to worry about is the crank side which I have been going back and forth w/ designs as to what would take up minimal space, not be such and eye sore also be able to handle the torque. Granted I wont be shredding tires or anything but will def get on it when I want to.
It def does look like a tight squeeze once the engine is in w/ that cross bar as fas as all my cooling hoses at the thermostat housing. The least I have to cut and weld I feel is better for me. Not saying that it wont work for anyone else b/c you have done wonders A1! As far as frame notches, I would def need help w/ those lol

that cross bar doesn't do a lick for structural rigidity back there. the frame rails that tie into the solid non-removable rear apron do however

also keep in mind you can go out side the box on this...i mean you can play around with moving your motor/trans. and personally i'd be leaning towards moving it all further back to gain some additional space. people that have done counterflow 1.8 swaps found them to be very tight against the fuel tank firewall. and granted you are modifying your firewall, but additional room to play around with wouldn't hurt.

go check out some of the vanagon builds for how they did their motor mount setups for some ideas. here's one i know off and am following:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/vie...=asc&start=180
the vanagon guys utilize just the stock rear mounting points but make their own custom cross bar/subframe setup. their stock front transmission mount isn't really more stout or more rigid than a bay trans front mount and they are having no problem holding up to the added abuse of the vr6. this again is also proving my point that you don't need that center cross brace. vanagons never had them.

heck here, check out my friend's cross brace he added into his two frame horns:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...us-Build/page2
you can see he cut open some box tubing and welded it to the frame rails for additional strength. you could do something similar to this in the rear and simply make custom mounting brackets to bolt to the motor.

there's tons of different ways to go about this, but i just don't see that stock rear engine cross bar and mounts dealing to well with the vr6. you're gonna be throwing something that's easily 2 to 3 times heavier back there, not to mention a torque monster compared to the crappy type IV motor.

[bansheelos]

that cross bar doesn't do a lick for structural rigidity back there. the frame rails that tie into the solid non-removable rear apron do however

also keep in mind you can go out side the box on this...i mean you can play around with moving your motor/trans. and personally i'd be leaning towards moving it all further back to gain some additional space. people that have done counterflow 1.8 swaps found them to be very tight against the fuel tank firewall. and granted you are modifying your firewall, but additional room to play around with wouldn't hurt.

go check out some of the vanagon builds for how they did their motor mount setups for some ideas. here's one i know off and am following:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/vie...=asc&start=180
the vanagon guys utilize just the stock rear mounting points but make their own custom cross bar/subframe setup. their stock front transmission mount isn't really more stout or more rigid than a bay trans front mount and they are having no problem holding up to the added abuse of the vr6. this again is also proving my point that you don't need that center cross brace. vanagons never had them.

heck here, check out my friend's cross brace he added into his two frame horns:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...us-Build/page2
you can see he cut open some box tubing and welded it to the frame rails for additional strength. you could do something similar to this in the rear and simply make custom mounting brackets to bolt to the motor.

there's tons of different ways to go about this, but i just don't see that stock rear engine cross bar and mounts dealing to well with the vr6. you're gonna be throwing something that's easily 2 to 3 times heavier back there, not to mention a torque monster compared to the crappy type IV motor.

I seriously have to get my welding game up to par!!!! You guys on here are insane w/ your fabrication work. I am def small potatoes in this arena lol I thought about the cradle about a month ago after I found this page http://www.brrman.com/bus/ I def liked the design. Running a/c is def going to put me into the arena of running a cradle. Oh welding gods give me the strength. I am done w/ the wiring in how I will be running the motor just have to tape it up once its in the bay to make it look decent. Gonna have to start looking into the 2" square angle and borrowing someones welder lol The only reason I was using the moustache bar is b/c I have seen others run it on the 1.8's and it looked sturdy and clean. Def gonna have to rethink this support all over again. Thanks sauce!

[bansheelos]

UPDATE: Honey do list has been kicking my butt! Been working in my mind on the bus. Started to mock up a cradle w/ wood. Its looking promising... Baby on Friday so I will be M.I.A. for a few! You stay classy.

[bansheelos]

UPDATE: A1, I ordered the plate its a 4wk turnaround!
Looking to start stripping and painting the engine area. Paint the block, get the donor car cut and sent to scrap so I can pull the bus in the garage!

[JUS_GT_EYEZ]

4 weeks is a good goal to get all that done before the fun begins. Lots of stuff to do make a list and start crossing off.

[A1steaksauce]

ha, yeah i called that one. 4-6 weeks is normal for that.

looking forward to seeing mock up begin