Sitting on the bar all by itself!
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#281
I'm cheesin'!!!
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#282
Sitting on the bar all by itself!
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Last edited by bansheelos; 09-30-2012 at 04:28 PM.
#283
hey guys, still somewhat new to vortex, been following this build and finallly decided to post!i just recently bought a bus same year color everything! I love the build keep up the work and if you get into lowering it take plenty of pics because i will need them for reference! keep it up!
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#284
oh fun! missed this one....cool stuff![]()
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#286
Yes I did. Hopefully it will be gold when I am done!
Check out A1's thread. He is the slam king of the bay window!
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...window-build..
Thanks
When its running it will be amazing. lol
Still going! Stay tuned![]()
#287
nice to see it coming along bro. I couldn't use the VR trans because the bellhousing is different for a 4 cylinder but I kept it for spare parts and bought a 4 cylinder 02A hydraulic trans and completed the swap.![]()
#288
#289
#290
Its going, in the process of cleaning the block and prepping it for paint. Sorry to hear that the VR trans was of no use really. At least you completed the swap!
Cant wait to get it running, unfortunately I have a ton of things to do before that.![]()
#291
#292
Got tired of looking of looking at that a$$ so decided to head up front and started to take a look at the front end. In doing that I found myself ripping out the beam
Just for ships and giggles. Fyi still 4x4 status compared to A1
Still going![]()
#293
Love seeing progress on this, if I could only convince my wife to let me add a bus to the family.
Oh what, you ain't pregnant with a bucket a chicken?
#295
this looks like you installed the vr on the wrong end.
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"Its cool to spool, but I'd rather be blown.." - JUS_GT_EYEZ
My FLickr <-- DUKEDLF
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#296
#297
This is insane.... Keep it up![]()
Im sick of typical... 81 TD Rabbit LE19: Bugsy
#298
#301
Not sure yet, Might just hit the beam to start getting it ready to cut and weld. As far as the body I am not sure yet. Picked up a sandblaster and starting to do some pieces. Messed around w/ the brake booster.
I think so, Ive been going back and forth in my head whether I want to do a 5in beam raise or do adjusters and dropped spindles. Im torn that if I do the adjusters and dropped spindles I will want to go lower in the front. That beam raise you and A1 did is def a lot of work. I like the stock geometry of it yet slammed to the ground w/ the 5in beam raise. For the rear I might just do the boomerangs and run the smaller tires.
#302
as i said alreadydon't do the beam raise. you are not going to be able to get the rear end down enough to be able to justify a beam raise up front.
you are not going to run out of adjustment up front if you go with some drop spindles and adjusters.
and the biggest thing is you really should run that brake booster with the vr out back. you cannot run that booster with a beam raise.
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#303
#304
Clean beams
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#306
I totally agree with A1. You are never going to get your bus low enough to need a beam raise. If you look at my lowering version 1.0, at that height, my stock mustache bar scraped all the time. I can get you my exact ground to mustache bar measurement if you want for reference. How much lower is yours going to sit over stock?
As much as you want to go low, you didnt pick a drive train that allows for it very well. You best bet is to get 17's and go with a standard boomerang and 4 inch/ beam and spindle drop. If you want to go lower, just tub the front. You will have plenty of room with large wheels to do a little tub and still be good on your ball joints. You will get the look of slammed with the tuck but the ground clearance on the rear you will need.
#307
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#311
Its time to decide what size wheels you want to run then. I go back to my previous suggestion of larger wheels tucked high for the look but still be able to maintain useable ground clearance. . . . . .
#312
#313
These ball joints are beast as hell. Took a look into trying to press them out and it doesnt seem like much of an area to sit it on to press it out. I saw that there is a stock and a oversized ball joint. Which one is this, cause I would say this is oversized than a mutha!! This is the only good joint but I figured I would just change them all. The big thing is that I have to get them out first lol
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#314
personally i wouldn't. if you're going to run over something your transmission will hit it first. if you're at all concerned about your motor just weld some plate to your oil pan.
a skid plate to properly do its job would be hanging down like a mofo costing you valuable ground clearance![]()
i disagree with this statement. generally speaking larger wheels are also wider. likewise you can take a set of 15's with more meat on the sidewall and they would be just as tall as a 17 with a lower profile tire. not to mention the 15's with taller side wall will ride nicer and be more quiet at freeway speeds....and the cost of the tires would be much cheaper.
it really depends on the offset. and what will suck about a good et40+ offset is it will be awesome for the front but you're going to have to space it out in the rear.
16's or 17's in 45 or 50 series are both manageable.
be mindful of how they come out. you have to make sure you install your new ones exactly the same. what i mean is keep an eye on that cut out notch they have
oh and here:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
this bad boy will help you configure your rim/tire size and also allow you to compare it to a stock tire setup. it will also show you the rpm/speed differences as well. it's a bad ace tool to have![]()
#315