I got impatient. I was going to do this over the weekend but I had the long awaited Forge Motorsport Induction System for the MKV R32...in hand. Mike@Forge was gracious enough to let www.PerformanceLEDs.com get a first hand account of this new kit.
What makes this intake any different than the others? EVOMs, Modshack, VF Engineering, HPA, and now Forge Motorsports. What I find unique in this design is that fact that it is a closed system. All of the air intake is from outside the engine bay. This means instantly cooler ambient air temperatures, you could go so far as to say this would be a genuine cold air intake system.
The first thing we did was unpack the box. It came well packaged and padded for transport [it has to be, seeing as they ship from the United Kingdom] and comes with all hardware.
[2x] Larger Clamps
[3x] Smaller Clamps
[1x] Intake Canister
[3x] Silicone Hose Segments
[1x] Induction Scoop [Metal]
[2x] Forge Stickers
*** Clamps not pictured ***
Quick break down of the components, build quality, and the like.
Hose Clamps - These are nice quality, I have seen some kits come with horrible clamps that bind or dig into the hose material. With these, the track for the screws has a thick bottom and does not cut into the hose and no binding. This pleases me, as I hate hose clamps in general.
Intake Canister - It's large. About 8 inches long and 9 inches in diameter. It has two caps on each end of the canister with one cap attached to the filter element. The wall of the canister is very sturdy and even with the end cap off, it did not flex easily. I also liked the matte carbon fibre look of the canister. I wasn't sold on it at first, but I actually really like it now. For those who are wondering, there is NO insulation in the canister. Given the design, there isn't much need for it as the outside air temps will naturally bring down the temperature of the canister itself. [See Below Img]
Silicone Hose - These are Forge's typical line of hoses, great quality and VERY sturdy due to their thick walls and reinforcement. I clamped down most of the intake system including the canister and the elbow joint EASILY held the weight of the canister up. This made it easy to work on aligning the last segment of hose which is a bit tricky.
Induction Scoop - I was excited to see it was made from metal. It gives the system that extra touch of quality, and it's not some thin gauge sheet metal. You can see from the photos these are very nicely welded together segments of thicker gauge steel. [See Below Img]
Forge Stickers - One vinyl sticker and one printer sticker. I won't be putting either on my canister, but nice for those who want to.
Installation was fairly easy for me, because I already had the Modshack intake system installed so I did not have to remove the OEM airbox and mounting stuff. Now, I love my Modshack VTDA intake system and found nothing wrong with it at all. I decided to give the Forge intake a go because I really love the concept of a closed induction system [you OEM+ buffs might appreciate it, as it's much like that of the OEM design.] It took me about an hour, partly because I was taking video, photos, and just eyeballing everything closely.
Once you get down to the bare throttle body, you put your first hose on, clamp it, then you slip your second clamp and attach your MAF [if you flip your MAF accidentally, just remember the two screw holes face away from the throttle body] and then clamp it. If you left the MAF sensor in, you might panic for a moment that you put the hose on a little too far over the throttle body, because the MAF segment will stop about an inches away from the hose. Relax, you simply have to re-route the wiring a little bit. Kind of flex it out and run it behind the brake fluid reservoir, I found this really easy to do with the MAF segment attached by pulling it to as far as it will go [not hard, protect the wires] then manipulating the wire harness to give you the inches you need. See below image.
Then we mount the elbow segment to the MAF, clamp it down. Doesn't need to be tight, we'll be tweaking the orientation of this a little later.
Then, we remove the OEM plastic induction scoop and mount the supplied Forge induction scoop. This is easier said than done. The right most T-25 screw is a breeze to get off. The left most, however is not. The intake runner and the vacuum system are in the way. The plastic scoop blocks just about everything from the right side and the engine is in the way from the right. You've got about 3-4 inches of usable space. I ended up using a tiny ratchet and a T-25 bit to get it off, and I could only move the ratchet two clicks at a time. Made me wish I had a larger variety of torx drivers in various sizes. With that off, the new induction scoop from Forge is nicely designed as it leaves PLENTY of room for you to hand screw in the left side. Since it does swoop so far to the right, the right most screw is taken at an angle but will be a breeze compared to what you just endured with the left side.
Before putting the canister in, put the last silicone hose and two clamps over the spiffy new induction scoop [press it as far as you can to allow the canister room for when you install it next.
Lastly, we attached the canister to the elbow [don't forget the clamp!], tighten that down snuggly making sure the hose is seated properly. Align the intake canister up with the hose [slip it up around both the canister and the scoop at this point]. You might have to hold the canister at and angle but tighten down the clamp with a nice solid seal. Play with the silicone hoses [be careful not to loosen them too much] to help with alignment if needed. It doesn't need to be perfect. Just clamp the last one, then tighten everything up. If you're like me, you'll tweak everything for that picture perfect look.