So I was in a rush today and I accidentally ripped the end of the hose, the part that threads into the AN fitting. So is the whole hose now shot? Here's a pic
The push end of the fitting goes into the hose. Take the fitting apart (just thread off the locking part of the fitting), and you will understand. Looks like you simply yanked it out of the hose. No biggie. The locking part of the hose, just place it over the tube on the line. Push the insert of the fitting back on the hose, and thread the locking part back. Steps below.
pic is missing the part you just placed on in the pic, but eh
It will assemble the same but his wont have that brass sleeve. That is a teflon hose, his is just the standard rubber lining, just so you arent looking for it wondering where it is
***from my vortex observations I have come to the conclusion that post count has no direct effect on automotive knowledge, or even common sense for that matter***
Just picked up my tune 2 days ago (running on a spare ECU someone on AZ let me borrow). It's still snow season over here. So whenever I have like 3 straight days to work on it on my driveway to account for run ins, I'll get to it. And it must be at least 50*F for those days. But other than that, I have my kit fully complete.
What tune are you going to run? I would do a 90* bend off the outlet to a straight section (horizontally looking from the font of the vehicle, going to the left), to another 90* bend going down to the fog light area with an air filter with pre-screen for water deflection (won't help a bit if it is submerged, but this area will bring in the freshest air). On the straight section going down to the fog light area, place your MAF. Just saying what I would do, if I had the SPA manifold. Well, that would be my first crack at it anyways. You are going to end up playing with it till you find a configuration that suits you. I know many others go this route, except go in the opposite direction of the 90* bend to have it point straight down, then into another 90* bend going to the left under the rail. Same thing with the filter, placement if filter, and MAF.
I'm just going with the Uni 440 tune for now, still looking for other tunes to try after that like Eurodyne, the first setup is actually the one I was kinda thinking just somewhere near the the foglight since im having the compressor outlet straight down on the inside of the frame rail instead of the outside like a normally see people with the spa do it.
90* bend off the compressor inlet>some straight pipe section>either a 45* or 90* bend (45* would be better)>some more straight pipe with the MAF placed in this section (at least 1-1/2" of straight pipe in front of and behind the MAF)>"dry" filter with pre-filter placed on it to repel water (won't help if it is submerged)
If it were me doing it, that is what I would do. Not sure if there would be any fitment issues, but that is what I would try first. If it works, then it works. If not, then tweak it for the best MAF readings along with best position of filter for fresh air intake. If doing a blow back recirculation over atmosphere vent (would be better since you are still running a MAF, but you can most def run a BOV if you wanted), then plumb accordingly. Same thing if you still want to run the n75 (some say you get better boost response with the n75 in-line with a sovereign boost controller), emission vent from line by n80, and pcv reroute (def do a catch can setup if venting back into the intake).
Yup that's exactly what I was hoping would work, It's tough to get the oil return line hooked up because the compressor outlet is in the way so I've been working with different fittings to make that work. Currently I have the Forge Splitter valve and if it runs like **** ill just cap off the blow off side. I do plan on running the n75 with a Hallman pro MBC. As for catch can i'll simply have a vented one. Is keeping the n75 just plugged in electrically considered in-line with the boost controller? Or is in-line something else?
In-line is placing the mbc before or after the n75. Parallel is self explaniroty. Most people either run it parallel, or by-pass the n75 altogether (route I am going to take). By-passing simply means running only an mbc/ebc and leaving the n75 plugged in electronically, tucked to the side somewhere in the engine bay. The n75 must always be plugged in electronically no matter what path you choose. Either that, or place a resistor on it. Here is a diagram for running it parallel.
And don't run the splitter as a BOV. It isn't designed for that. That is like running a forge 007 as a bov. People do it, but I'm not quite sure what complications it may cause. Get rid of the Splitter and get a real BOV.
And when it comes to your drain lines, just make sure that the oil will not puddle in the return anywhere.
I've seen that picture before and that was the route I was originally going to take but I'll try bypassing it first to see how that goes. I didn't mean run the Splitter just strictly BOV, i've been running it with it recirc. and BOV when I was on my stock setup and it worked great. I was just saying I would cap off the BOV side completely if I have any troubles with it going BT.
I have a Forge 007. I'll sell you it when I install my Forge 004 with my turbo kit. Just sell your splitter valve also, so you won't lose any money. Whatever you sell yours for I'll do the same, so you won't lose any money. Just don't go too cheap. I was thinking like $75-85 shipped.