Dyno tune

[kevinescobar15]

Hello everyone, i have a little dilema here

i was just wondering if you guys know of a place that can dyno tune? I have a Mk4 2.0T with a C2 software that isn't working at its best in other words i've had plenty of issues since the first time they flashed it. i'm still having issues as of right now and they want me to send the ECU back for another flash (third time) but now they want me to pay for shipping back and forth, which doesn't seem right since they are the ones that messed up. but is there any place around the seattle area that dyno tunes or maybe a place where they know VWs and they can dyno the car and send the logs to C2 so they can flash it with the information that i get from the dyno?


Thanks for all your help, and because we all like pictures here's one

[MEISTER]

Contact JRM or Rallytuned.

https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000890360781

https://www.facebook.com/RalleyTuned?ref=ts&sk=wall

[Canadian Hybrid]

I would just get the GIAC or APR flash and fugedaboutit....

[kevinescobar15]

Contact JRM or Rallytuned.

https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000890360781

https://www.facebook.com/RalleyTuned?ref=ts&sk=wall

Alright ill give them a call tomorrow. have you had any experience with them?

I would just get the GIAC or APR flash and fugedaboutit....

They don't make any for 2.0ts lol

[a2lowvw]

with c2 software your not going to get any real help from brendan "rallyetuned" if you want to go with a fully tuneable option like megasquirt then he is your man. your best bet is get some dyno logs and send them to c2 or go somewhere like amd in woodinville and be prepared to pay $$$ for dyno time and custom software. the guys at amd are very nice and have the ability to dyno and tune in house, or pay the shipping costs and have c2 fix it. I would ask the guys at c2 what they are changing with the map.

shipping an ecu across the country twice is what $80-100

shop labor rates for dyno time and a single tech is $100+ per hour for 3-5 hours? then you will pay someone to write the software, upload it into the car and re-dyno.... custom tunes are never cheap. flashed software from any company will only be so good.

what kind of issues are you having with the car? too rich/lean, boost issues, off boost? are you sure its a software issue and not an issue with the car that has been made worse since the addition of boost?

[-RalleyTuned-]

There really is no place that I know of that will re-flash a custom chip around here. You will either need to ditch the chip tune BS and step up to something that is tuneable in real time, or continue to work with c2 to fix your issues. Sorry to be so blunt but you really don't have a ton of options.

I have a really nice tool that hooks into the obd2 port to log up to 16 channels as well as AFR, this is awesome to send the info to the chip tuner to fix afr issues. If you are having other issues then you have no choice but to get a different chip or work with c2 until your issue is fixed

[juststarted]

Send the Ecu to united motorsports and have them tune it. Jeff atwood used to tune for c2 and now owns united, definitely the guy for chip tuning.

[kevinescobar15]

what kind of issues are you having with the car? too rich/lean, boost issues, off boost? are you sure its a software issue and not an issue with the car that has been made worse since the addition of boost?

Okay so here's the issue, when Im going wot(17-20psi) and i shift to lets say from 2nd to third and give it full throttle the car bugs down and on my afr it says that Im at 18-19 and the car builds boost(maybe5psi) but the car doesn't seem like is going, it feels like its missfiring or bugging down then if i let go of the gas and wait for a few seconds i can give it wot and the car builds boost normally. now if i shift fast but wait a second or two before i give it wot then the car runs great and builds boost fine. Its hard to explain. C2 had me do a few logs and Ryan at c2 told Me that the car is in fact running a little lean. oh and Im running a 4bar and a walbro. under full boost Im at 12.5 -12.6 at 18-20psi. I have replaced both 02 sensors, new coil, new wires, brand new maf and nothing has made a difference.

There really is no place that I know of that will re-flash a custom chip around here. You will either need to ditch the chip tune BS and step up to something that is tuneable in real time, or continue to work with c2 to fix your issues. Sorry to be so blunt but you really don't have a ton of options.

I have a really nice tool that hooks into the obd2 port to log up to 16 channels as well as AFR, this is awesome to send the info to the chip tuner to fix afr issues. If you are having other issues then you have no choice but to get a different chip or work with c2 until your issue is fixed

Yeah i wish i could go standalone. after the 8v blows up, Im going vrt so i might do stand alone then. i was thinking about doing a few dyno runs and log the information then send it to c2. Just.like you said. how much would that cost if i wanted to do it with you?

[kevinescobar15]

Send the Ecu to united motorsports and have them tune it. Jeff atwood used to tune for c2 and now owns united, definitely the guy for chip tuning.

I was thinking about this. ill end up doing that if c2 can't figure anything out..

[MEISTER]

Alright ill give them a call tomorrow. have you had any experience with them?

Yes, Brendon from Ralleytuned did the mega quirt in my old Rabbit, and Jake from JRM just tuned the A/F in my new Mk1 Scirocco last week.

[kevinescobar15]

Yes, Brendon from Ralleytuned did the mega quirt in my old Rabbit, and Jake from JRM just tuned the A/F in my new Mk1 Scirocco last week.

were you using standalone for both cars?

[MEISTER]

were you using standalone for both cars?

No, just in the Rabbit. But Jake said that they send people to each other when one is busy.

[scott66]

Okay so here's the issue, when Im going wot(17-20psi) and i shift to lets say from 2nd to third and give it full throttle the car bugs down and on my afr it says that Im at 18-19 and the car builds boost(maybe5psi) but the car doesn't seem like is going, it feels like its missfiring or bugging down then if i let go of the gas and wait for a few seconds i can give it wot and the car builds boost normally. now if i shift fast but wait a second or two before i give it wot then the car runs great and builds boost fine. Its hard to explain. C2 had me do a few logs and Ryan at c2 told Me that the car is in fact running a little lean. oh and Im running a 4bar and a walbro. under full boost Im at 12.5 -12.6 at 18-20psi. I have replaced both 02 sensors, new coil, new wires, brand new maf and nothing has made a difference.



Yeah i wish i could go standalone. after the 8v blows up, Im going vrt so i might do stand alone then. i was thinking about doing a few dyno runs and log the information then send it to c2. Just.like you said. how much would that cost if i wanted to do it with you?

Well, its definately fun when you are blasting around shift like you should and get nothing. However, if you keep it this way, it will be no time till you blow your engine (I imagine) since you are runnign pretty GD lean (18-19 AFR ) and then you can go VRT (not my choice as I love my 16VT)...good luck.

[kevinescobar15]

Well, its definately fun when you are blasting around shift like you should and get nothing. However, if you keep it this way, it will be no time till you blow your engine (I imagine) since you are runnign pretty GD lean (18-19 AFR ) and then you can go VRT (not my choice as I love my 16VT)...good luck.

yeah i already had a piston melt but that was prior to the AFR gauge. now this time if it breaks or blows i'm going with something different. but thanks. i'm just trying to get this figured out, thats all.

[juststarted]

What Fpr are you running? I just read your 12.5-6 afr. If that's the case and you are running a 3bar through a 4bar in and try that, you can also use methanol to get you down to 12.

[kevinescobar15]

What Fpr are you running? I just read your 12.5-6 afr. If that's the case and you are running a 3bar through a 4bar in and try that, you can also use methanol to get you down to 12.

I'm running a 4 bar that came out of an s4 i think (i might be wrong). it was a brand new unit tho. prior to that the car was deffinetly lean with the stock(3 bar)

[simon-says]

sounds like you may have a blow off valve instead of a divert valve. And yes you should go with UM.
Jeff is the VW Ecu master.

[kevinescobar15]

sounds like you may have a blow off valve instead of a divert valve. And yes you should go with UM.
Jeff is the VW Ecu master.

Im running the bosh unit (dv), however i was thinking about running a 50/50 but.some.people say that it gives them.problem since Im running a maf sensor instead of a a map sensor.

[juststarted]

I believe the Bosch unit doesn't support 18-20 psi. You may want to run a better one. Stick with a dv, vws really do not like blow off valves.

[kevinescobar15]

I believe the Bosch unit doesn't support 18-20 psi. You may want to run a better one. Stick with a dv, vws really do not like blow off valves.

okay. what would you recommend? Forge?
and could the dv really be causing that issue. i don't hear the dv flutterin or releasing boost prematurely.

[juststarted]

I would think that it would effect it.

As your air is being compressed through the compressor and into the intake manifold, not all of the remaining air is being rerouted before the turbine, therefor the excess is going to remain in the manifold, Excess air that isn't metered by the maf to adjust for fuel.

Someone who knows more can correct me if im wrong.

The apr n1 is what I am using and works well. Forge with adjustable springs is a good choice if you are going to change your boost allot.

[-RalleyTuned-]

okay. what would you recommend? Forge?
and could the dv really be causing that issue. i don't hear the dv flutterin or releasing boost prematurely.

I use a Forge Splitter, it is not actually 50/50. It is more like 90/10, the diverter part does divert most of the air back into the turbo, and the blow off side just has enough to make the sound. I have been really happy with it for the most part. The forge 007 is also a great unit at a lower price tag.

Talk with Jake at JRM...aka TURBOCADDY on here. He is a Forge dealer and has a few in stock, he is also in covington (and who I'm going to refer you to for logging also )

[jity86]

I had a similar problem on my vrt with a forge diverter when i shifted between 2nd and 3rd under full boost conditions. we installed a makeshift second boost guage at the turbo outlet and we found that the boost would spike up to 30lbs from 17lb for a split second after the throttle plate closed . The size of the turbo was just overwhelming the little valve, It just couldn't vent enough boost. after switching Tial 50mm ( I'm not running a MAF ) the problem went away. Im not saying that this is your problem, but its something you might consider

EDIT - Im not knocking forge DV's, Only saying that there valve was not big enough for my application. they will probably work good on a 4 cyl application. I didnt want someone to take this the wrong way.

[kevinescobar15]

I would think that it would effect it.

As your air is being compressed through the compressor and into the intake manifold, not all of the remaining air is being rerouted before the turbine, therefor the excess is going to remain in the manifold, Excess air that isn't metered by the maf to adjust for fuel.

Someone who knows more can correct me if im wrong.

The apr n1 is what I am using and works well. Forge with adjustable springs is a good choice if you are going to change your boost allot.

yeah for now that Im running stock bottom end and only 20psi i think i wont need an adjustable one. But thanks !

I use a Forge Splitter, it is not actually 50/50. It is more like 90/10, the diverter part does divert most of the air back into the turbo, and the blow off side just has enough to make the sound. I have been really happy with it for the most part. The forge 007 is also a great unit at a lower price tag.

Talk with Jake at JRM...aka TURBOCADDY on here. He is a Forge dealer and has a few in stock, he is also in covington (and who I'm going to refer you to for logging also )

PM sent, would having a maf be affected by a splitter type dv?
i keep hearing people say that it might cause problems.

I had a similar problem on my vrt with a forge diverter when i shifted between 2nd and 3rd under full boost conditions. we installed a makeshift second boost guage at the turbo outlet and we found that the boost would spike up to 30lbs from 17lb for a split second after the throttle plate closed . The size of the turbo was just overwhelming the little valve, It just couldn't vent enough boost. after switching Tial 50mm ( I'm not running a MAF ) the problem went away. Im not saying that this is your problem, but its something you might consider

EDIT - Im not knocking forge DV's, Only saying that there valve was not big enough for my application. they will probably work good on a 4 cyl application. I didnt want someone to take this the wrong way.

yeah Im running a tail 44mm would that be a problem? Maybe too small?

[-RalleyTuned-]

No the splitter will not effect the maf, like i said, there is very little air that is actual released into the atmosphere. It was designed to sound like a blow off for cars that run MAF's and stock ecu's

[kevinescobar15]

No the splitter will not effect the maf, like i said, there is very little air that is actual released into the atmosphere. It was designed to sound like a blow off for cars that run MAF's and stock ecu's

Thanks again brendon. i appreciate it. hopefully ill be able to fix all of my issues.

[jity86]

I was talking about diverted valves in my previous post, not a waste gate. In your post you said you where running a Bosch factory diverter valve. Did I miss something? I switched my forge dv to a tial 50 mm blow off valve.

[kevinescobar15]

I was talking about diverted valves in my previous post, not a waste gate. In your post you said you where running a Bosch factory diverter valve. Did I miss something? I switched my forge dv to a tial 50 mm blow off valve.

Never mind i was confused.. but with my set up i can't run a bov.

[ValveCoverGasket]

give it full throttle the car bugs down and on my afr it says that Im at 18-19 and the car builds boost(maybe5psi) but the car doesn't seem like is going, it feels like its missfiring or bugging down

i hope for your sake its misfiring and giving you false lean readings, otherwise youll be building that vrt motor a lot sooner than you expected.

dont beat on your car until youve got the issue sorted

[kevinescobar15]

i hope for your sake its misfiring and giving you false lean readings, otherwise youll be building that vrt motor a lot sooner than you expected.

dont beat on your car until youve got the issue sorted

Yeah i learned that lesson once. VRt will go in either once the engine blows or once i get used to the power lol