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    Thread: Where to buy CIS pressure shims nowadays

    1. Member DjBij099's Avatar
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      03-02-2012 01:05 PM #1
      My car is running rich and I suspect I will be messing around with it soon. It's CIS-Basic on schrick 276 cams with euro fuel distributor. I have no vacuum leaks, my spark plugs do indicate that I'm running rich, my a/f tells me I'm running rich as well, my timing is set correctly (6*btdc). I know I'm gonna have to go through all the tests for CIS with a pressure gauge to see what the system pressure and control pressure is and all the other fun stuff. I'm trying to find shims and I look up on google for "fuel distributor valve kit" and it shows the shims, but I've found so many kits and most are for mercedes and bmw. Is there a specific bosch part # I have to look for VW application?

    2. Member rabbitnothopper's Avatar
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      03-03-2012 03:07 AM #2
      Quote Originally Posted by DjBij099 View Post
      My car is running rich and I suspect I will be messing around with it soon. It's CIS-Basic on schrick 276 cams with euro fuel distributor. I have no vacuum leaks, my spark plugs do indicate that I'm running rich, my a/f tells me I'm running rich as well, my timing is set correctly (6*btdc). I know I'm gonna have to go through all the tests for CIS with a pressure gauge to see what the system pressure and control pressure is and all the other fun stuff. I'm trying to find shims and I look up on google for "fuel distributor valve kit" and it shows the shims, but I've found so many kits and most are for mercedes and bmw. Is there a specific bosch part # I have to look for VW application?


      the fuel pressure valve?

      shims come as 1.1mm or .3 and .5mm

      so either you get a one piece shim that is 1.1mm or two that totals .8mm

      check your pressure first

      you probally are better off doing some adjustments of the fuel meter on the airbody
      since you already have an A/F meter (and hopefully a tach) you should be able to set the range
      if you have the Jetronic CIS w/o2 & frequency valve you should also have a Dwell port off the Jetronic ECU

      so..check your injectors, fuel pressure, etc before you go modifying the maximum fuel pressure
      what the shims do is determines when the valve open/ closes to release fuel to the outlet -> back to the tank
      if you have a frequency valve it should be adjusting it

    3. Member DjBij099's Avatar
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      03-03-2012 03:20 AM #3
      Quote Originally Posted by rabbitnothopper View Post
      the fuel pressure valve?

      shims come as 1.1mm or .3 and .5mm

      so either you get a one piece shim that is 1.1mm or two that totals .8mm

      check your pressure first

      you probally are better off doing some adjustments of the fuel meter on the airbody
      since you already have an A/F meter (and hopefully a tach) you should be able to set the range
      if you have the Jetronic CIS w/o2 & frequency valve you should also have a Dwell port off the Jetronic ECU

      so..check your injectors, fuel pressure, etc before you go modifying the maximum fuel pressure
      what the shims do is determines when the valve open/ closes to release fuel to the outlet -> back to the tank
      if you have a frequency valve it should be adjusting it
      CIS-Basic uses no frequency valve. Here' the complete run down of the car and the history of it that's been done:

      3 years ago, 4 new fuel injectors

      Last year, I redid the upper/lower injector holders and upper/lower injector seals on all 4 of them due to a vacuum leak after I moved one of the injector lines. It was having problems stalling coming to a stop. This fixed that.

      Last year, Cleaned air filter (K&N)

      Last year, New In-tank and main fuel pump last year

      The only thing left to look at is the system pressure and control pressure. I messed with the fuel distributor and did a few adjustments to it, but the a/f upon part throttle and WOT were the same, 12.0-12.6 part throttle and 11.6-10.0 WOT. It would hit 10.0 at 7K rpms. My spark plugs do indicate that the car is running rich, so I do trust my A/F reading.

      Messing with the adjustments on the fuel dizzy only sets it up for idle mixture. It does/did not help anyway with part throttle and WOT. This was pointless for me to do. This will probably be the last thing I do once I check everything else

    4. Member DjBij099's Avatar
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      03-03-2012 06:11 AM #4
      I just happened to be browsing on google and saw this image.



      Here's an image of how mine is.



      I know my image of my car is a little hard to see, but the main thing is CSV and CPR Left fuel lines are switched around. If I switch them back to where they're suppose to be according to the picture, would that make a difference?

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      03-03-2012 06:25 AM #5
      Yup!

    6. Member DjBij099's Avatar
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      03-03-2012 06:30 AM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by WaterWheels View Post
      Yup!
      You have no idea how awesome that reaction is making me feel

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      03-03-2012 06:40 AM #7
      Just to clear it up a little. The port pictured above, #6, is a return port to the fuel tank (connected to port numbered 5 in the picture). The port labled #4 is system pressure (think of it as pump pressure). So you have your cold start valve connected to a return line (no real pressure) and your control pressure regulator valve return line connected to pump pressure. Get it?

    8. Member DjBij099's Avatar
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      03-03-2012 06:54 AM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by WaterWheels View Post
      Just to clear it up a little. The port pictured above, #6, is a return port to the fuel tank (connected to port numbered 5 in the picture). The port labled #4 is system pressure (think of it as pump pressure). So you have your cold start valve connected to a return line (no real pressure) and your control pressure regulator valve return line connected to pump pressure. Get it?
      It might seem a little off in the pic, but my CSV is actually connected to port #6. I'm a little confused right now because I'm on no sleep, but I should get it after I sleep on it

    9. Member DjBij099's Avatar
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      03-03-2012 06:58 AM #9
      I found this pic also. Now I'm confused. Which one do I go with?


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      03-03-2012 12:56 PM #10
      Yes, the drawing is correct, I was going off the picture you posted and the way it was marked, but it is wrong. You do know that you are using a VW Motorsport fuel mixture unit don't you? It is going to be richer than a factory unit and if it is on an 8v even richer I guess as the VWMS units were 16v race items. What are you using for a control pressure regulator? Part number? A/F ratio at idle?

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      03-03-2012 02:02 PM #11
      uh, hes running it on a 16v engine in a mk2..

      not an 8v..

      notice he mentions CAMS, and then posts up a pic of his engine bay, clearly showing a 16v engine with a 50mm intake..

    12. Member DjBij099's Avatar
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      03-03-2012 10:39 PM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by Glegor View Post
      uh, hes running it on a 16v engine in a mk2..

      not an 8v..

      notice he mentions CAMS, and then posts up a pic of his engine bay, clearly showing a 16v engine with a 50mm intake..
      Yup, that's my engine bay. I know I have a VWMS fuel dizzy. Upon idle, I managed to get a a/f reading of 12.5-13.5 give or take jumping around a bit. Before I was getting a "--" reading on idle. Non of this matters IMO because if I were to go ahead and mess with system pressure and control pressure, I would have to adjust the idle mixture again anyway. So how I have the fuel lines attached on the distributor right now is correct then?

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      03-04-2012 04:07 AM #13
      There is no reason you can not tune the mixture down to the correct ratio at idle. I have owned and used these units in the past and had no problems getting a correct mixture at idle. What exactly is a "--" reading? The mixture gauge I use has a display value which is programable with numbers, so what "--" means might help also. Is that a rich/lean stop display? OK, you don't say what you are using for a control pressure regulator but I believe your best course of action at this point ie to do a complete fuel pressure test. System pressure is probibly OK but control pressure might be wrong. Don't just "mess" with these pressures, check them and adjust them as needed but playing around with no idea of where they are at can just cause more head aches. Some things you really just can't tune using an air/fuel gauge. Yes, the fuel lines appear correct.


      Quote Originally Posted by Glegor View Post
      uh, hes running it on a 16v engine in a mk2..

      not an 8v..

      notice he mentions CAMS, and then posts up a pic of his engine bay, clearly showing a 16v engine with a 50mm intake..
      Thank you for pointing that out, it was very helpful. If it was not intended as help then sorry but I did not say he had an 8v. "It is going to be richer than a factory unit and if it is on an 8v even richer I guess as the VWMS units were 16v race items." Please just read it as written and not try to arrange it in any other way. But thank you anyway.

    14. Member DjBij099's Avatar
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      03-04-2012 08:54 AM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by WaterWheels View Post
      There is no reason you can not tune the mixture down to the correct ratio at idle. I have owned and used these units in the past and had no problems getting a correct mixture at idle. What exactly is a "--" reading? The mixture gauge I use has a display value which is programable with numbers, so what "--" means might help also. Is that a rich/lean stop display? OK, you don't say what you are using for a control pressure regulator but I believe your best course of action at this point ie to do a complete fuel pressure test. System pressure is probibly OK but control pressure might be wrong. Don't just "mess" with these pressures, check them and adjust them as needed but playing around with no idea of where they are at can just cause more head aches. Some things you really just can't tune using an air/fuel gauge. Yes, the fuel lines appear correct.
      The "--" reading means full lean, at least that's where my aem uego wideband gauge indicates. I did get it to give me a reading at one point when I was messing with the idle mixture. I ended up putting it back to where it originally was because upon a full cold start, it ended up misfiring quite a bit. Freaked me out honestly.

      I have a Rabbit WUR like this one pictured. I'll check the actual part number on it later today:



      I know not to mess with the procedure right away. I should and will do a full system and control pressure test first, but I just want to have everything before hand ready to be able to tackle it all in one day. Plus, these parts are getting harder to find each day and it's not a bad idea to have first hand.

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