I am going out today and bead blasting the aluminum parts(oil pan, timing covers, motor mounts, etc). Was there a factory clearcoat on them?
Not on the oil pan or valve cover. I think the motor mounts are just painted with a glossy black.
2002.5 Jetta 1.8T - TOTALED (dodging deer)
2002.5 24v GTI - TOTALED (rear-ended by a Jeep)
1992 Corrado SLC - Daily Driven (when it's not broken)
2012 Golf R - Daily Driven (when Corrado's broken)
So now that I have this motor apart, anything I should do to prolong the life of this motor? It will be getting full 5 angle valve job, some pocket porting, and ARP studs, what else should I look at?
This is not as performance build, it is mostly for reliability and mileage.
I do want to ditch the stock airbox, but don't want the air filter in the fender. Ideas?
I bought my second VR off ebay. Sunk 3K into it, its a daily driver now. It still needs timing chains. I didn't have any CEL but had all kinds of problems. Devious previous owner removed the bulbs. ABS was all screwed up. The indicator in the dash had been on so long, it was burned out. When it rolled off the delivery truck the rear passenger wheel almost fell off. Wheel bearing vaporized, stub axle ruined, caliper bracket toast. Ebay seller told me the caliper was just "seized". When I confronted him about it he said "sale is final, good luck with it". No more ebay cars for me. Sellers lie, ebay does nothing to help.
Anyway Stangcr1, these cars are relatively forgiving but repeated abuse and neglect act like compound interest, and it gets expensive really fast to make it a reliable car again.
I would never buy a car I can't see in person. I would not have let them buy this car if I had seen it before the daughter/wife bought it while I was at work.
I am over $2k just in the motor rebuild and lots more to do. Pick up the head from the machine shop tomorrow. By the time I am done, the motor will be rebuilt with new chains/arp studs/bolts/metal impeller water pump, billet crack pipe, etc, and the trans rebuilt, I will be $5K into this.
Motor is going back together, about to put the oil pan on and flip it. New lower chain and guides are in. Trans kit/solenoids/harness is on order.
Sounds like you have everything covered as far as future reliability. I assume you're doing a bottom end gasket kit? The oil cooler seal is known to go bad. Also inspect your coil pack for cracks, the plastic gets brittle and cracks around the terminals causing a misfire especially in the rain. What kind of coolant did the car have before? Traditional green coolant is known to be corrosive in these engines, once you have the car back together you should use vw's 'g12' coolant, or I personally just use dexcool. You should clean off all your wire connectors and take a really good look at your grounds, bad grounds are known to cause all sorts of mysterious and exciting problems in these cars haha. Good luck, don't listen to the people saying you should have just bought another one, if you did that you'd just be back in this same boat again in a year! Just do it once and do it right
Also, keep the stock airbox. A true cold air intake with the filter down low would be ok, but if you don't like that, a cone filter any closer to the maf would make the air too turbulent and do more harm then good. Like someone else mentioned, throw a k&n in the stock box and use a drill or dremel to open up the front of the bottom of the box some more.
And I saw you mentioned arp bolts. Are you doing arp rod bolts? If so, do yourself a favor and do some searching on here about them. People have had mixed reviews, saying replacing the stock bolts with arp caused premature rod bearing failure without having the rods specifically machined for the arp bolts. I'll let you do your own homework and draw your own conclusion there, but seeing as no one else mentioned that yet I feel like I should before you get any further along.
I did install ARP rod bolts and the plastigage showed no change in the bearing clearance, so I hope for the best. And since this is a driver, not a racer, I think it will be fine.
I also tried to use a new set of Victor Reinz factory style head bolts and several of them started stretching before reaching torque. Waiting on ARP head studs now.
All the bottom end seals are new.
Highly considering the Ford coilpack....
Got the ARP headstuds finally. top end done. Getting the cams lined up was a PITA, and took 3 tries, but all good now. Then while bolting on the upper cam cover, dropped the cap from the sealant down the big oil drainback hole in the head and it is now in the pan. So going to pull the pan again...
Then to bolt on the externals and start the auto tranny rebuild.....
It lives! Two months of mostly waiting on mail order parts, but she runs. Didn't want to start at first, had to prime the fuel system(key on/off) a few times then started making sounds like she wanted to start. Then one cylinder caught and stopped the starter. Ooppps. I had two of the coil wires reversed from the ICM to the coil(new Accel coil with custom wires). Swapped them and she fired up. Lots of clatter from the top end. Hmmm. Must be the lifters. Revved it up to 2k for a bit and the clatter went away. A few minutes later, smoke.... No problem, just the oil/antisieze on the exhaust manifold. No leaks below. No lights on the dash. Yay!
Transmission was a whole nother story. I had dumped a gallon of ATF in after the rebuild and on the test drive, she would rev first and then thunk into second. Hmmm. Better check the level. Ended up adding another full quart. Second test drive, all good. No missed shifts, no lights, and nice smooth driving. Wife has it now getting diapers for the granddaughter.
ARP rods bolts
ARP head studs
stock replacement valves
head decked .008"
5 angle valve job
Victor Reinz head gasket
metal impeller water pump
all new chains and guides
Accel coil and custom wires
All new vacuum lines
Gruvenparts billet crack pipe
new thermostat housing
new green temp sender
new belt tensioner
Polyurethane dogbone bushings
Full Transtar trans rebuild kit with steels and diaphragms (Borg Warner clutches and Raybestos steels)
all new solenoids
Sonnax valves and install kit
new solenoid harness(not ribbon)
and more I can't think of now.
Most of the parts came from MJM and ECS. Machine work by Brown's Machine. Trans parts from Bulkpart.com. and Ebay.
But mostly I want to thank all the people that submitted DIYs. That info was instrumental to this rebuild happening. Your hard work to help others is recognized and prized by me.
Tomorrow it goes in for an emissions test to get the tabs renewed. Crossing my fingers.....
All is not as good as first thought....
there is a small oil leak somewhere...
And the wonderful Emissions Workshop came up right as I was pulling into the emissions test station. Didn't bother testing it. Got home and scanned code P1136. Looked around and found one vacuum hose loose. Cleared the light and sent wife out with it to put some miles on it. She just texted the lights came back on. Going to reclean and test the MAF and then spray down the vacuum hoses and injectors with carb spray. Hope its not the fuel pump..... Maybe the SAI..... The SAI fan runs, and the valve works with my MityVac, but not sure the solenoid works.
The oil is coming down between the engine and trans. Not a lot, but enough for a couple drops on the driveway.
As far as the P1136...
Did you ever take something apart 2 months ago and then try to put it back together without a vacuum diagram on the lock carrier? There are a couple of the little squares left but most of it is gone. All better now. Cleared code and the kids(daughter, her husband and the granddaughter) put another 50 miles on the car trying to get the drive cycles done for the emissions test. Kids are saying the mileage is now about double what it was getting before the rebuild. They say it would have used over half a tank for 100 miles but now used less than 1/4 for the same trip.
Car has over 100 miles on the new motor and tranny and all now looks good. Cept the oil leak...
Speaking of emissions testing in Washington, it looks like all they do now is hook a scanner to the OBD2 port and if the car's computer says it is good, then it passes. Hope to find out Monday if that is true.
Jetta passed emissions this morning.
Haven't found the oil leak yet. Not worrying about it right now.
As an FYI, the state of Washington emissions testing is now nothing more than plugging into the OBD port and if the car's computer says it is good, then it passes. No more sniffer.
Looks like here if the car's computer says all is good, it passes. This saves the state on individual testing of the exhaust on all cars. Saves time in the line, prevents issues with the sniffer(less maintenance), wear on the dyno, and generally saves the state $$$.
I am sure they still have to sniff some cars. My diesel gets a check for black soot, and the rest of my vehicles are exempt for being old. The Wife's Focus should be due this summer for it's smog check. Should be another plug in and pass.
If I lived 20 miles north or 10 miles east, I would not have checks....
Jetta is running good. 220 miles so far....
No major issues at 2k miles on the new motor/trans.
Kids are saying high 20's on mileage, so not great but good. Still have to fix the power windows....
I never did put the engine cover back on. I tried but it won't fit with the Accel coil and custom wires. It's just a beauty cover anyway.
Still drips oil. Less than 1 quart in those 2k miles, so I am not worrying about it yet.