Quick question with regards to spark plugs (yes I have searched)

[Jayizdaman]

Hi guys, so after spending two hours of searching I find myself just a little confused.

I just got chipped (Revo, 2000 Audi 1.8T quattro) and I'm noticing misfiring under heavy load (no problems with normal or spirited driving, only when I mash on it and never had any issues stock) My CEL does not flash (thought it is ON because the P.O. removed the cat , I thought the Revo add-on was supposed to remove this too) so I'm pretty sure it's not my coil packs.

Anyways after search and finding these two threads http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...88#post7015573 and http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2495664
I know I have to run a .028" gap and it's suggested I go a heat range colder as well as stick with copper plugs (I also read why copper plugs were better for our chipped cars).

So everyone recommends NGK BKR7E (not the BKR7E-11 because the gap is too big) and the new part number is now NGK 4644, but what heat range am I supposed to go with? It says the heat range is 7, so that means the BKR6E was 6?

I'm confused please help haha

[DJmart]

I have Revo stage 2 on my 2000 TT 180. The rear o2 sensor is only "blinded" from exhaust flow, but it must be functional electronically. Aka heated circuit, or else you WILL get a CEL.

I run BKR7E's all day long. I replace them (or try to) every oil change. Some will say this is overkill but, they are cheap plugs, and it isn't hard to do.


I occasionally get a slight misfire under high boost, but my coil packs are original with 126k on the clock. Honestly, I notice the misfire with different weather.

Hope this helps just a bit.

-DJ

[Jayizdaman]

I have Revo stage 2 on my 2000 TT 180. The rear o2 sensor is only "blinded" from exhaust flow, but it must be functional electronically. Aka heated circuit, or else you WILL get a CEL.

I run BKR7E's all day long. I replace them (or try to) every oil change. Some will say this is overkill but, they are cheap plugs, and it isn't hard to do.


I occasionally get a slight misfire under high boost, but my coil packs are original with 126k on the clock. Honestly, I notice the misfire with different weather.

Hope this helps just a bit.

-DJ

Thanks DJ!

I suppose I may also go with 42DD's O2 spacer as well, I will be picking up the NGK's today and in reality I have no idea if my coil packs are original (120k miles) but I will eventually get to replacing those later as well.

[DJmart]

Thanks DJ!

I suppose I may also go with 42DD's O2 spacer as well, I will be picking up the NGK's today and in reality I have no idea if my coil packs are original (120k miles) but I will eventually get to replacing those later as well.

Are you getting catalyst efficiency codes? If not, then you don't need an o2 spacer.

[DougLoBue]

Copper - people like them because they are cheap.

Go NGK Platinum or Iridium. Always re-gap the spark plugs yourself or at least check the gap.

You probably have coilpack issues though if you've already replaced your plugs once.

[rodhotter]

copper conducts better, both electrically and thermally, exotic metal plugs came in action due to the high mileage guarantee on emissions, they save labor yes but i also do own work FREE!!

[DougLoBue]

copper conducts better, both electrically and thermally, exotic metal plugs came in action due to the high mileage guarantee on emissions, they save labor yes but i also do own work FREE!!

I'll take your word for it on the conductivity, but copper doesn't last in my BT car for more than 10 miles till it can't be driven due to misfires.

[20v master]

7s are the colder temp range that you want. Iridium 8s is all I run in my stroker, but copper 7s in my daily stock turbo. The iridiums appeal to me for the high melting point.

[Jayizdaman]

So upon changing my plugs, I noticed my coil packs were covered in oil. Notably coil for cyl 1, I drove around to see if things had changed and for the most part no misfires! When I finally got one, it was for coilpack 1, needless to say I'm going to clean everything out have the valve cover gasket changed and see if the coilpack is actually fried or if I can get away with it. Kind of sucks but this does seem like a good time to change the valve cover gasket while also replacing some ****ty hoses as well.

[20v master]

When you changed the plug in that cyl, you created a drain for the oil. Most of it probably ran out, but you obviously should replace your 12 year old valve cover gasket. Also, the coils are pretty good in sealing up against oil in the spark plug galley, so if it's working fine there's no point in changing it.

[1.8Tbug]

Copper - people like them because they are cheap.

Go NGK Platinum or Iridium. Always re-gap the spark plugs yourself or at least check the gap.

You probably have coilpack issues though if you've already replaced your plugs once.

spend the extra few bucks on iridium i was always the guy to buy the normal plugs because they all do the same thing. when i bought my TT it came chipped P.O. have old plugs with wrong gap so i bought normal bosch plugs 3k down the road un gapped themselves and noticed misfires under high boost bought OEM AUDI plugs (NGK iridium) and have 7k on them with no problem

[20v master]

OEM plugs are not iridium. Stock plugs are either Bosch F7LTCR, or NGK PFR6Q, which are platinum.

[murTTer]

So upon changing my plugs, I noticed my coil packs were covered in oil. Notably coil for cyl 1, I drove around to see if things had changed and for the most part no misfires! When I finally got one, it was for coilpack 1, needless to say I'm going to clean everything out have the valve cover gasket changed and see if the coilpack is actually fried or if I can get away with it. Kind of sucks but this does seem like a good time to change the valve cover gasket while also replacing some ****ty hoses as well.

just spend the money on new cp's, mkv ones look pretty cool and are efficient if youre wanting to go for something a little bit different. and unless you're running high boost the stock plugs are your best bet, you can always re-gap them IF necessary.

[DJmart]

So upon changing my plugs, I noticed my coil packs were covered in oil. Notably coil for cyl 1, I drove around to see if things had changed and for the most part no misfires! When I finally got one, it was for coilpack 1, needless to say I'm going to clean everything out have the valve cover gasket changed and see if the coilpack is actually fried or if I can get away with it. Kind of sucks but this does seem like a good time to change the valve cover gasket while also replacing some ****ty hoses as well.

Changing the valve cover gasket is definitely a DIY if you have the know how. From what you wrote above it looks like you're going to have someone do it for you.

Mine was leaking bad into the spark plug holes as well.

Glad to see things are sorting out.

[Jayizdaman]

Changing the valve cover gasket is definitely a DIY if you have the know how. From what you wrote above it looks like you're going to have someone do it for you.

Mine was leaking bad into the spark plug holes as well.

Glad to see things are sorting out.

So I just found the write up on how to do the valve cover gasket it really doesn't look that bad. My local shop who is really good quoted about 1 1/2 hours worth of labor plus the part, but they're using an OEM valve cover. The only thing I don't have is a torque wrench...

[DJmart]

So I just found the write up on how to do the valve cover gasket it really doesn't look that bad. My local shop who is really good quoted about 1 1/2 hours worth of labor plus the part, but they're using an OEM valve cover. The only thing I don't have is a torque wrench...

Honestly (I may get bashed for this) you don't need a torque wrench. 7ft lb is so little. But they are serious when they say 7ft lb, because the bolts/studs are weak.

Just use a ratchet and tighten til snug and call it a day.

[Luis92]

i run BKR7E's gaped to .028 and replace them every 10,000 miles

[Jayizdaman]

Honestly (I may get bashed for this) you don't need a torque wrench. 7ft lb is so little. But they are serious when they say 7ft lb, because the bolts/studs are weak.

Just use a ratchet and tighten til snug and call it a day.

Yeah I mean because I'm relatively a rookie on fixing ****, I'm not the best gauge ; when we pulled my plugs (even though I thought I tightened them tight enough (15ft/lbs) my mechanic was like these are way to loose.

Looks like I have a nice project for Sunday (It's supposed to be 75 and sunny too!) Do you have any recommendations for what I should clean the valve covers with? as well as the plug channel itself?

Thanks for the help guys!

[Jayizdaman]

So I didn't want to create another thread and clutter our forum, but I'm hoping people can still help. I'm still misfiring at higher boost, which I'll deal with later, however I AM throwing a P0422 code for my cat. After speaking with Revo, I either have an exhaust leak or my rear 02 sensor has failed (so even though it's been 'blinded' by the Revo chip, it will still throw a code since it's malfunctioning).

I'm just hoping someone with the same issue could confirm it. Thanks guys.

[tt_kcalb_nevar]

Yeah I mean because I'm relatively a rookie on fixing ****, I'm not the best gauge ; when we pulled my plugs (even though I thought I tightened them tight enough (15ft/lbs) my mechanic was like these are way to loose.

Looks like I have a nice project for Sunday (It's supposed to be 75 and sunny too!) Do you have any recommendations for what I should clean the valve covers with? as well as the plug channel itself?

Thanks for the help guys!

I recently did my vc gasket and I dont have a quarter of the experience or car knowledge that some of these guys here on the forums do, but, it was pretty damn simple!

Since youre going to remove the valve cover I would strongly recommend that you also change the cam tensioner gasket and the little half moon gasket as well. You need a special vw tool #3366, I bought mine from snapon for $10 plus shipping (the site doesnt tell you how much shipping is but its around $10 for anywhere in the US, so $20 total) heres the link: https://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDe...itemId=7100005

I bought my Fel-pro Valve Cover Gasket from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-VS5053...4131826&sr=1-1

This is the cam tensioner gasket kit from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Victor-Reinz-T...b_auto_title_0

Though some people dont use sealant, I decided to, so I bought some Permatex Ultra Grey RTV gasket maker from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194...132071&sr=1-10 I used a small amount of this product, per the Bently manual, small 1/4" beads go in certain spots, I dont have my book with me or else Id post the pic of where they go, but, when you pull off the old gasket, you will see small dark blobs in the corners of the where the gasket was, just clean it and apply small amounts there. let it sit for about ten min, then place the gasket onto the head and install the valve cover. Once you do this, you must leave the car off for the next 24 hrs!

You can actually get the VW tool#3366 from amazon too, it ends up costing the same either way, prefer snapon brand myself....

Once you have the cover off its all pretty straight forward, clean the mating surface on the head and vc with a razor, make sure to clean the little valleys that are on the raised sections on the left and right side of the head. By "valley" Im referring to the area where the curved portion of the gasket sits, itll make sense when you see it, theres usually a little bit of old sealant in those spots.

I saw the link you provided on changing the gasket, I have to suggest that you do a full on search both here and google on the proper way to change the valve cover gasket AND the cam tensioner gasket, its really quite simple when you use the vw tool to help gain access to the area, that and needle nose pliers.

As far as cleaning the valve cover, I used a homemade concoction of degreasers and chemicals plus a heavy duty wire brush, but, if unlike me you actually plan things out, you can grab some simple green from the market and use that, either way make sure it is 100% dry before installing (I used a hair dryer on max for about 10 minutes to get all of the little spots dry).

It really is simple, I did it alone and the entire job (not including degreasing/polishing vave cover) takes less then 2 hours.

If you have any trouble or get stuck on the way, let us know, Im sure anyone here would be more than willing to help!

Once all of that is said and done, get yourself some new Denso Iridium IK22's, make sure theyre gapped to .028 and install using 22FT/Lb (15 ft/lb is def not enough!)

Oh, almost forgot, invest in a decent torque wrench! You can pick one up for like $30+ dont get the cheap beam types.


Good luck!

[Jayizdaman]

I recently did my vc gasket and I dont have a quarter of the experience or car knowledge that some of these guys here on the forums do, but, it was pretty damn simple!

Since youre going to remove the valve cover I would strongly recommend that you also change the cam tensioner gasket and the little half moon gasket as well. You need a special vw tool #3366, I bought mine from snapon for $10 plus shipping (the site doesnt tell you how much shipping is but its around $10 for anywhere in the US, so $20 total) heres the link: https://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDe...itemId=7100005

I bought my Fel-pro Valve Cover Gasket from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-VS5053...4131826&sr=1-1

This is the cam tensioner gasket kit from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Victor-Reinz-T...b_auto_title_0

Though some people dont use sealant, I decided to, so I bought some Permatex Ultra Grey RTV gasket maker from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194...132071&sr=1-10 I used a small amount of this product, per the Bently manual, small 1/4" beads go in certain spots, I dont have my book with me or else Id post the pic of where they go, but, when you pull off the old gasket, you will see small dark blobs in the corners of the where the gasket was, just clean it and apply small amounts there. let it sit for about ten min, then place the gasket onto the head and install the valve cover. Once you do this, you must leave the car off for the next 24 hrs!

You can actually get the VW tool#3366 from amazon too, it ends up costing the same either way, prefer snapon brand myself....

Once you have the cover off its all pretty straight forward, clean the mating surface on the head and vc with a razor, make sure to clean the little valleys that are on the raised sections on the left and right side of the head. By "valley" Im referring to the area where the curved portion of the gasket sits, itll make sense when you see it, theres usually a little bit of old sealant in those spots.

I saw the link you provided on changing the gasket, I have to suggest that you do a full on search both here and google on the proper way to change the valve cover gasket AND the cam tensioner gasket, its really quite simple when you use the vw tool to help gain access to the area, that and needle nose pliers.

As far as cleaning the valve cover, I used a homemade concoction of degreasers and chemicals plus a heavy duty wire brush, but, if unlike me you actually plan things out, you can grab some simple green from the market and use that, either way make sure it is 100% dry before installing (I used a hair dryer on max for about 10 minutes to get all of the little spots dry).

It really is simple, I did it alone and the entire job (not including degreasing/polishing vave cover) takes less then 2 hours.

If you have any trouble or get stuck on the way, let us know, Im sure anyone here would be more than willing to help!

Once all of that is said and done, get yourself some new Denso Iridium IK22's, make sure theyre gapped to .028 and install using 22FT/Lb (15 ft/lb is def not enough!)

Oh, almost forgot, invest in a decent torque wrench! You can pick one up for like $30+ dont get the cheap beam types.


Good luck!

Thanks for the Tips, I actually already did it and it was super easy. That being said since you just reminded me to check my plugs haha. I feel like I didn't tighten them enough.