Its actually not that bad, its not totally awesome, but I don't think it deserves vortex flaming
I would think it would cost you >$100 to weld it.
#1
Let me start by saying this is the best section of this forum. I come here weekly and drool over the work that's posted. Hopefully some day i'll be able to weld/fab half as good as some of you do.
Been working on making SRI manifold for my turbo project. Tried using mostly parts from the original intake manifold to keep cost down. The hardest part was matching the ports of the metal plate and lower half of the intake.
I'm getting close to having it welded, but i have a few pestions.
1. Do i need to widen the ports on the plate?
2. How much should i expect to pay to have this welded? (2 big welds on either side of metal plate, then 2 smaller welds for the nipple and the metal plate with the sensor and the nipples.)
3. Is this crap?Don't be afraid to hurt my feelings.
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#2
Its actually not that bad, its not totally awesome, but I don't think it deserves vortex flaming
I would think it would cost you >$100 to weld it.
2.0T+034efi+meth = 300+whp = Part out PM me for anything
#3
Does it fit under the hood??? Its not terrible for a home brew![]()
#4
Thanks, was expecting welding to be the priciest part, time to bite the bullet.
Any advice on what i could do to make it better?
Thanks
Yup. Did a quick test fit today with the injectors and checked hood clearance.
Looks very awkward and out of place
This was with the hood closed as far as possible with ought being locked down. Looked like 1.5-2in of space.
Again, any advice on what i could do to make it better?
#5
I did this last year.
Welding cost me $70
I would suggest closing all the holes on the (new) front side. Have a 1/4" thick (or thicker) piece of aluminum added to the bottom. There you will have a discreet place to drill and tap holes for brake booster line, MAP, etc.
#7
Awesome, super informative. definitely picking up a second manifold and trying my hand at this!
#8
Thanks i hope to install it this weekend, even though it will be pointless on the N/A engine.
#9
2.0T+034efi+meth = 300+whp = Part out PM me for anything
#12
For what it is, I really like it. Nice job trying something and seeing it through![]()
#13
MK1 Rabbit GTI
Believe it or not i used the same holes that were used originally. On the TB side was tricky so i had to shorten the original bolt. However it is in there real well.
d-bot
Thanks. Took a while but was defiantly affordable and fun. Encountered way more obstacles then i expected, like bolting the fuel rail and doing the porting.
#14
The manifold itself is pretty decent for a first time, throw some powedercoat on there and it will look money.
I would think about moving that battery though, need to get a proper intake tube on there or it might run pretty rough.
stock 97 GLX wagen........
#16
Thanks, was thinking about powder-coat since it would make it look glassy, but that would probably double expenses on the projectand idd half to make the valve cover match
. Was also thinking paint but don't think it look anywhere as good at P-C.
Going to move battery to over side and add a tube this week, hopefully regain a bit of lower end torque/power.
Thanks, ill keep it in mind for next time.
#17
Didn't notice much difference apart from on one specific hill, definitively felt a bit more low end pep.
Bay needs bit more love but runs ok for now.
#18
hey man this is ausome. really impressed for what your workin with. is it possible to cutt the original upper intake any bigger, or switch the side of the tb and air by filping it before the weld? im thinkin bout tryin this myself.![]()
#19
I dont see any reason why you couldnt switch the upper half to face the other side. I actually spent quite a bit of time debating which side to put it on. However i had planned on running my turbo kit so i went the other way. Now that in stuck with n/a i wish i had gone to the other side so i didnt half to swap battery over.
Let me know if you got any more questions, also if u need a decent welder i can hook u up with guys number, he is in NH and was very affordable.
I must add though i didnt notice any increase in HP (i dont really know never used dyno). Apart from maybe in the top end.
#20
hmm aight thanks man. haha i just realized ur the kid i bought my caliper carriers from lol! well lemi know how it runs with the turbo attacted. do you feel any more power like is it noticeable at all? and does it effect the sound? also u running stock cams?
thanks
#21
oh and did you have to make any changes or adjustments to the throttle body or cable? or just plane move them along with the intake?
#22
looks real nice! im sure a cam will take advantage of that top end you have now!![]()
phillyscca.com
J&J autosport
#23
I think you did a great job.
If you think its too small or whatever dont worry, there is always tomorrow, and more aluminum.
What you have proved is, you can do it.
May people know how something should be, but lack skills to see it through.
Sizes of stuff, you can look up, and calculate.
Skills on how to make the actual item are hard attain though, but it looks like you have that pegged. The rest will follow,
Keep up the good work,
Brian,
#24
@WhatsupWisconcin420 Not much difference in power if any. the sound is great though. stock cams. however i did need to change to a vr6 throttle cable so it could reach the TB.
@Jh0104 Im sure that adding a cam would help. Dont have fund at the moment or even a place to work on the car.
@Brian.G Thanks! Yah its far from perfect but with what i got for materials and tools im pretty happy.
#25
Would you be able to mash a 16v lower to an aba upper just curious
#26
Most people do a 1.8t plenum to a 16v lower... Runners line up. Aba runners are paired up in the middle, makes em a pain in the ass
#27
Please explain more on this 1.8t 16v mix and by the way the short runner diy has been on my mind for the past couple days and it looks good![]()
#28
Guys over at scientific rabbit did a test of the mk3 and mk4 intakes. And found the mk4 to be a better intake, stock and ported.
I wonder if you used the mk4 bottom and the MK3 top like you did if you'd get more flow and power then. Don't think you'll be able to use the 16v or 1.8T manifold as a base since the runners are spaced differently. Though the 1.8T plenum maybe useful.