what camera and lens do you use? 50mm 1/8?
I didn't find any DIY's, but I took it slow and paid attention to little details.
Start by removing the seat itself. Be sure to disconnect the battery prior to avoid detonating your airbags. Disconnect the airbag plug and play connectors. Remove entire seat.
Then, remove the plastic panels around the bottom of the seat. I believe mine were mostly, if not all, phillips head screws. Once removed, begin disconnecting the seat cover. It is a stretched hook style of connection.
Once it's fully release around the outside edge of the seat, begin disconnecting the snap rods in the pleats of the seat (butt pan).
Once the cover is fully removed, pull the old foam off.
Place the new foam on and be sure to align the metal support bars properly so the foam sits flush.
Begin the tedious task of reinstalling the snap bars. These are easier in the beginning as you work from the back section towards the leg section. It's a huge pain in the a$$ as you get closer to the front.
Once you get all the snap bars connected, restretch the cover over the foam and hook the connections back up all the way around the skirting.
Reattach plastics and reinstall seat.
Bam. All done.
what camera and lens do you use? 50mm 1/8?
I work for a pretty large photography retailer, so I have access to a lot of cool toys.
Picked up a Black Forest Industries Stage I Dogbone Mount at Waterfest for $55.
Pulled the old one last night.
Here's the new one.
And both of them together.
I took it for a 10 minute spin immediately after and first impressions are:
Cold start up had much less vibration to the body of the car.
Shifts feel very crisp.
I'm about to take it on my daily 90 mile round trip commute so I'll have a better sense of it later tonight.
I'm currently on vacation in Outer Banks. Car has seen slow progress lately with a promotion at work, but I have been working on sanding down the wheels, then filling them in prep for paint. Also starting to look into the paint issue. I still have intentions of painting it pearl white, most likely Satin White Pearl from the new Subaru BRZ. However, I've never seen paint as thick as what's on my 337, and with it so chipped up, I'm not sure what the best plan is to attack prepping it. I'll be sitting down with my brother in law soon to discuss that.
I ordered my Milltek downpipe 2 weeks before Waterfest and it's still not arrived to my local shop. They said that they are sold out of the part and waiting on production to ship them stateside. It's been driving me nuts, because the friction sound I mentioned hearing between shifts and when maintaining a constant speed has been there now for months on end. The shop is convinced that getting the old cat out of there will get rid of the sound, and I'm desperately hoping they are correct.
Once that comes in, I'll flash up to APR Stage II. Then I'll be picking up Stoptech pads and rotors and stainless brake lines from work.
I'm contemplating coil overs, although I'm still iffy about it. I'm convinced that the car's suspension is worn. At 114,000, I'm sure it could use a spruce up. So still trying to decide between a set of ST coilovers (at the suggestion of my local shop, RS Worx) or going with a cup kit. I will also be upgrading front and rear sway bars. Anyone have an opinion on sway bars? Particular brands and particular diameters? I want this car to feel like it's on rails when in a decently tight turn for an on/off ramp monster.
I feel like you and I are in the same boat, I just picked up a 05 VW GLI with some cosmetic issues.. lol its got all sorts of paint chips, the liner inside was redone poorly, and on top of that my side view mirror is also cracked LOL same side and everything, but i hope the best for you brotha. Your car has a lot of potential, can't wait to see it done
Wow. You're coming along quite nicely! I finally bought a GLI after working on VW/Audi's for the last 8 years.
As for the hole cut in the subframe, common issue. When removing the bolt for the lower control arm, sometimes the welded nut on the otherside breaks loose. The only way to access it is to make a hole. I've probably had around 30 cars do it to me. I use a large unibit though. Cleaner and then painted to prevent rust. The hole isnt a big structure problem. If that is the weak point and bends, you have HUGE other issues besides the subframe.
Keep up the good work! Anxious to see the final outcome.
Finally picked up a set of GTI tails from my local junk yard this week, in mint condition, to replace the Golf tails the car came with.
Pretty happy with it, and outside in daylight it makes a world of difference.
Also finally picked up a driver side leather door card and installed it.
Almost at 120k so it's almost time for a timing belt!
I have been noticing the same friction sound I've experienced since my trip to Boston a few months ago. My attempts to thwart it with new wheel bearings and replacing the destroyed catalytic converter failed and it's persisted. I purchased a set of 02m axles for a 6 speed 1.8t from Black Forest industries, which theoretically should be correct. I installed them and now the car won't move and makes a grinding sound when I try to engage the clutch in first or reverse. Anyone have any insight? All I can think of is that the splines of the axle shaft are amiss with those of the hub but it was too dark for me to diagnose. Pretty stressed about it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Just found your thread. I had alot of fun reading it and seeing the progression. Keep up the great work! My vote goes for painting it what you want. That white pearl is sweet! Since the car was silver, (which I think is SO common) why not be a bit more original?! I agree with 87vr6 in keeping the oem body lines and kit. It still needs to look like a 337 even though its a different color. It's oem plus isn't it?
So, a few weeks ago, I decided to go out on a whim and purchase new axles, as I really felt that the noise I was hearing had to be from either the trans or the axles. I shopped around and was torn between Raxles, OEM and cheap ones. I'm always a fan of do it right or do it twice, but I was strapped for cash. Then I found that Black Forest Industries was selling 02m 1.8t axles for $99. I jumped at it and bought a driver and passenger side axle. They shipped fast and were scheduled to be delivered on my day off. Needless to say, I was excited.
I woke up on the day of the delivery I tore the old ones off that morning to prep for the new ones to go in. This was during the aftermath of Hurricane Sandy, so I was still without power at my house, and daylight is scarce here in the evenings, so I wanted to have as much time to get the new ones in as possible. I got the old ones out pretty quickly and was ready to install by noon. I also did an oil change while I waited.
My dog decided to chill with me while I worked...and continue to further destroy my parcel shelf.
Both axles had torn boots. This had to be the problem!
While I was underneath, I took some time to inspect the brakes and the new test pipe.
Low and behold....no delivery until 5pm, as the sun went down. The UPS driver dropped the package off and said "Looks like I'm just in time for something!" I had to hold back from telling him how irritated I was that the light was disappearing.
The axles looked solid and I was excited to get them installed and test the car out to see if my diagnosis was correct. I figured that at 120,000 miles on the oem axles, it would probably feel great to get new CV joints in there.
I worked via an LED headlamp and got the axles both installed. It took a little while, and was tough to do by myself, but I finally got them all bolted up and ready to drop the car down. I pulled the stands, dropped the car, tossed my gloves and prepared for the neighborhood loop test drive.
I depressed the clutch, and it felt light as a feather. I turned the key and she spurted to life. I gave it a minute for the car to warm up, then put the car in reverse and began to release the clutch. That's when I felt my stomach lurch into my throat. Rather than a smooth reverse, I got a grindy whiny sound and no motion out of the car. I threw it back in neutral and jumped out, looked under neath and once-overed the situation to ensure that I hadn't mistakenly done anything dumb. Nope. Everything was buttoned up right. It was pitch black at that point and I had to get back to my girlfriend's house, so I called her and had her pick me up and I returned to my car the following evening after work.
I jacked the car up, and rotated the wheels by hand to find that the driver side axle was perfect, but the passenger side inner CV joint was broken, allowing the axle to spin but not turn at the transmission end, causing the boot to twist up on itself. Great.
I dropped the axle out and opened up the cv joint to take a look. It was loose as could be. I pulled the assembly apart and put it all back together, repacked with grease and felt it bind up immediately. I took a trip to Advance Auto, bought a jaw puller and more CV grease, went home and began rebuilding it. Unfortunately, after the 4th time reassembling it and finding it binding, I pinched the cv joint housing with the jaw press right at one of the flange bolt holes. It was royally f***ed now.
I needed the car the following day, so I grabbed my broken oem axle, pulled, repacked it with cv grease and reassembled it, threw a heavy duty hose clamp on it, reinstalled, and bam. Car drove great......for a few days. I slowly felt it returning to the noise I had known so well (expectedly). I contacted Black Forest and explained what had happened: that I had received a defective axle and in trying to remedy it, I had done further damage. They said I should mail it back at my cost and they would look into whether or not it would be warrantied. I checked shipping and it was about $35 to send back. I did not want to gamble 1/3 the cost of the part on someone to say that I damaged it, because it was quite obvious that I did. I simply purchased another and waited for it to arrive. It came on my day off again! Late. Again.
I tore out the OEM, put in the new one (after checking it's assembly by hand). I'm about to drop the car and think....wait! Let's test it by hand NOW. I roll the wheel one rotation and watch the CV joint pop out of it's socket. The trans end no longer rotating, and the axle being free. No effing way. Seriously?
I reinstalled my terrible OEM and have had it in for the past few days. I contacted Black Forest and informed them that I was mailing both of the axles back for a refund. I included a video of the newest axle and how it was broken while it was still installed. They told me it was bad luck and that there must be quality control issues from the manufacturer. (duh.) Once I receive my refund I'll be purchasing OEM elsewhere, unless I can save enough by then to order Raxles.
For now I'll keep the driver side in until it fails (which seems inevitable) but it's not worth the time to pull it out and reinstall the OEM then swap again, for $99.
Tonight, I lost power steering while coming down a very steep section of the mountain I live on. Luckily I noticed right as it went and was able to control it all the way down. I dropped it off at the speed shop I go to, and walked the rest of the way home. Hopefully it's just a line and not the entire pump assembly. Later this week I have some goodies going in (maintenance goodies).