Here are some pics.
Holding top of broken bolt/stud w/nut:
This isn't good, is it?
I'm is or was in the process of changing my timing belt and swaping in 268 TT camshaft. Everything was going pretty well until I installed the new cam. I was retorquing the nuts for the cam bearings and had my torque wrench set to an indicated 59 ft/lbs. I got all the bolts fairly tight before torquing them. Torqued the first bolt and it felt like a lot -- too much -- for 59 ft/lbs. Torqued a second one and it again felt too tight. I decided to give it one last turn and I broke the bolt/stud.
How hard is that bolt/stud to replace? And can I even obtain a new one? Really hoping I don't have to pull the head. ...
Oh man, tough situation!
I don't know if these studs are screwed in there but chances are they are - if you have enough thread left, you could try screwing in two nuts and tighten them against each other, so you can unscrew the stud off by applying counter-clockwise force to the bottom nut... do you have enough thread to do this?
If you accomplish this, you could then go to a junkyard and use this same method to extract a stud from another 8v volkswagen there, and fix your problem for nearly nothing!
Either way good luck with it!
Also is your torque wrench the type that clicks? I find that those are not so reliable for engine stuff, they're excellent for lug nuts and such but for lower torque stuff I trust that $20 torque wrench that's the bend-and-needle type better, because you see the desired torque setting coming gradually
Thanks for the replies! One thing I just realized I screwed up: Even 55 ft/lbs. is way too much torque for those bolts. They should be 14 ft/lbs. My torque wrench is the type that clicks. I've had it for almost 10 years, and not had any problems. But maybe it's time for something else.
There might be enough thread on the stud left to fit two nuts. If so, I'll give this a try.
This is the cam I used.
German Auto Parts sells a similar cam for $125, but they were out of stock when I tried to order one.
It's not worth upgrading the cam without first upgrading to a dual outlet exhaust manifold and downpipe (or headers) and a bigger throttle body.
I have a VW & Porsche magazine article from the late 1980s that dyno tests a Neuspeed 268 cam in a Fox (with exhaust, downpipe and throttle body upgrades). It made 9 more whp compared to before the cam swap. The extra power came on after 4k rpm. I will be thrilled to get that much of an increase.
Check out the FAQ on this forum for more/better info.
There is nothing wrong with a click torque wrench, as long as you buy a damn good one. You also have to remember to turn the torque back down to the lowest setting when done with it.
The only torque wrench I used are made by this company. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for, and they are made in USA,
Depending up on how long you use a torque wrench, it should be recalibrated at least every 5 years. The same company has this, so you can test your wrench.
They have my car when they pry my dead cold fingers from the steering wheel.
Well a precise tool is a precise tool; what I meant is that with the needle type torque wrench, you see it coming. With a click type, you're tightening waiting for a 'surprise' - a good one or a bad one.
I do wonder if that's the same profile as the TT / neuspeed cams. I've been rocking one since my Fox was a stock 1.8L small valve head, small TB, stock manifold, TT catback. Definitely still a bit of a difference, but good to know there's more in store
Now it's being used with an ABA block, big valve head, and bigger Fox2 TB. Hopefully will get to the dual outlet manifold/dp soon and will see some moar whps!!
I've been content with mine, but from what I've read, the RD cam isn't too far behind. Seen quite a few of those at junkyards in the past. Just a heads up if anyone wants a cheap $20 cam upgrade. Seems a lot of people say 272* is where it's at, and 268* is really just what should have been stock. Kind of regretting I didn't have the machine shop swap in HD springs. Oops
I really suck at smog.
I have the TT 268* in mine...awesome power over 4K, good low end still, i've lugged up hills at 2K RPM in third a few times. Advancing the timing considerably (and 93+ octane) helped too . IIRC my ignition timing 24-26* advanced and still no ping with octane booster (108ish) without I usually keep it around 18-20* on 93 pump gas.
Std A2 Hyd "G" 026 109 101 G
231°/235° 218°/219° 214° .400" 110° -2.8° BTDC '85-92' RD,PF,RV Engines
268° 109 071 $130.00 268° 245°/244.5° 232.5°/231° 226°/225° .440" 110° 2.8° BTDC All Hyd. Except OBD II Fair Idle**
definitely got a lot more lift and more duration than the rd cam
I really suck at smog.