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    Thread: Timing belt/cam change ... oops ... need some help

    1. Member
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      03-10-2012 09:43 PM #1
      I'm is or was in the process of changing my timing belt and swaping in 268 TT camshaft. Everything was going pretty well until I installed the new cam. I was retorquing the nuts for the cam bearings and had my torque wrench set to an indicated 59 ft/lbs. I got all the bolts fairly tight before torquing them. Torqued the first bolt and it felt like a lot -- too much -- for 59 ft/lbs. Torqued a second one and it again felt too tight. I decided to give it one last turn and I broke the bolt/stud.

      How hard is that bolt/stud to replace? And can I even obtain a new one? Really hoping I don't have to pull the head. ...

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      03-11-2012 05:39 PM #2
      Here are some pics.

      Broken bolt/stud:



      Holding top of broken bolt/stud w/nut:



      This isn't good, is it?

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      03-11-2012 06:40 PM #3
      Oh man, tough situation!

      I don't know if these studs are screwed in there but chances are they are - if you have enough thread left, you could try screwing in two nuts and tighten them against each other, so you can unscrew the stud off by applying counter-clockwise force to the bottom nut... do you have enough thread to do this?

      If you accomplish this, you could then go to a junkyard and use this same method to extract a stud from another 8v volkswagen there, and fix your problem for nearly nothing!

      Either way good luck with it!

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      03-11-2012 06:49 PM #4
      Also is your torque wrench the type that clicks? I find that those are not so reliable for engine stuff, they're excellent for lug nuts and such but for lower torque stuff I trust that $20 torque wrench that's the bend-and-needle type better, because you see the desired torque setting coming gradually

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      03-11-2012 06:57 PM #5
      Thanks for the replies! One thing I just realized I screwed up: Even 55 ft/lbs. is way too much torque for those bolts. They should be 14 ft/lbs. My torque wrench is the type that clicks. I've had it for almost 10 years, and not had any problems. But maybe it's time for something else.

      There might be enough thread on the stud left to fit two nuts. If so, I'll give this a try.

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      03-11-2012 08:43 PM #6
      Alain, you're a genius! Your suggestion worked like a charm -- and took all of two minutes.



      Hmm ... the stud is not quite the same, but similar looking to an exhaust manifold stud. I wonder if ... naw, I've already made too many mistakes with this. ...


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      03-12-2012 06:08 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by novws View Post
      i'm is or was in the process of changing my timing belt and swaping in 268 tt camshaft. Everything was going pretty well until i installed the new cam. I was retorquing the nuts for the cam bearings and had my torque wrench set to an indicated 59 ft/lbs. I got all the bolts fairly tight before torquing them. Torqued the first bolt and it felt like a lot -- too much -- for 59 ft/lbs. Torqued a second one and it again felt too tight. I decided to give it one last turn and i broke the bolt/stud.

      How hard is that bolt/stud to replace? And can i even obtain a new one? Really hoping i don't have to pull the head. ...
      where do you find this cam and what kind of difference does it make.. Sorry i'm new to this..
      V-DUBS DON'T DIE THE GET LOWERED!!

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      03-12-2012 06:30 PM #8
      This is the cam I used.

      http://techtonicstuning.com/main/ind...products_id=30

      German Auto Parts sells a similar cam for $125, but they were out of stock when I tried to order one.

      It's not worth upgrading the cam without first upgrading to a dual outlet exhaust manifold and downpipe (or headers) and a bigger throttle body.

      I have a VW & Porsche magazine article from the late 1980s that dyno tests a Neuspeed 268 cam in a Fox (with exhaust, downpipe and throttle body upgrades). It made 9 more whp compared to before the cam swap. The extra power came on after 4k rpm. I will be thrilled to get that much of an increase.

      Check out the FAQ on this forum for more/better info.

    9. Member 90quattrocoupe's Avatar
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      03-12-2012 07:38 PM #9
      There is nothing wrong with a click torque wrench, as long as you buy a damn good one. You also have to remember to turn the torque back down to the lowest setting when done with it.

      The only torque wrench I used are made by this company. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for, and they are made in USA,

      http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/M.php

      Depending up on how long you use a torque wrench, it should be recalibrated at least every 5 years. The same company has this, so you can test your wrench.

      http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...wrench_te.html

      Greg W.
      They have my car when they pry my dead cold fingers from the steering wheel.

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      03-12-2012 07:55 PM #10
      Well a precise tool is a precise tool; what I meant is that with the needle type torque wrench, you see it coming. With a click type, you're tightening waiting for a 'surprise' - a good one or a bad one.

      Cheers, Alain

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      03-12-2012 09:09 PM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by novws View Post
      German Auto Parts sells a similar cam for $125, but they were out of stock when I tried to order one.

      It's not worth upgrading the cam without first upgrading to a dual outlet exhaust manifold and downpipe (or headers) and a bigger throttle body.
      http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...formance/388/1

      I do wonder if that's the same profile as the TT / neuspeed cams. I've been rocking one since my Fox was a stock 1.8L small valve head, small TB, stock manifold, TT catback. Definitely still a bit of a difference, but good to know there's more in store

      Now it's being used with an ABA block, big valve head, and bigger Fox2 TB. Hopefully will get to the dual outlet manifold/dp soon and will see some moar whps!!

      I've been content with mine, but from what I've read, the RD cam isn't too far behind. Seen quite a few of those at junkyards in the past. Just a heads up if anyone wants a cheap $20 cam upgrade. Seems a lot of people say 272* is where it's at, and 268* is really just what should have been stock. Kind of regretting I didn't have the machine shop swap in HD springs. Oops
      I really suck at smog.

    12. Member themagellan's Avatar
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      03-12-2012 11:03 PM #12
      Good call Alain! Again I am too slow to post the solution.

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      03-13-2012 09:55 AM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by ziddey View Post
      http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...formance/388/1

      I do wonder if that's the same profile as the TT / neuspeed cams. I've been rocking one since my Fox was a stock 1.8L small valve head, small TB, stock manifold, TT catback. Definitely still a bit of a difference, but good to know there's more in store

      Now it's being used with an ABA block, big valve head, and bigger Fox2 TB. Hopefully will get to the dual outlet manifold/dp soon and will see some moar whps!!

      I've been content with mine, but from what I've read, the RD cam isn't too far behind. Seen quite a few of those at junkyards in the past. Just a heads up if anyone wants a cheap $20 cam upgrade. Seems a lot of people say 272* is where it's at, and 268* is really just what should have been stock. Kind of regretting I didn't have the machine shop swap in HD springs. Oops
      any junkyard in mind??? $20 cam upgrade i'm all over that..
      V-DUBS DON'T DIE THE GET LOWERED!!

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      03-13-2012 10:20 AM #14
      Did you happen to find the cam stud part #? I need to do this same thing for the G60 head I got.

      I'll be in the market for an upgraded cam myself soon.
      How a VW Fox Wagon sucked me back in...a build thread

    15. Member 90quattrocoupe's Avatar
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      03-13-2012 01:40 PM #15
      cam cap stud 056 103 397
      They have my car when they pry my dead cold fingers from the steering wheel.

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      03-13-2012 01:54 PM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by 90quattrocoupe View Post
      cam cap stud 056 103 397
      thanks
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      03-13-2012 02:45 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by novws View Post
      This is the cam I used.

      http://techtonicstuning.com/main/ind...products_id=30

      German Auto Parts sells a similar cam for $125, but they were out of stock when I tried to order one.

      It's not worth upgrading the cam without first upgrading to a dual outlet exhaust manifold and downpipe (or headers) and a bigger throttle body.

      I have a VW & Porsche magazine article from the late 1980s that dyno tests a Neuspeed 268 cam in a Fox (with exhaust, downpipe and throttle body upgrades). It made 9 more whp compared to before the cam swap. The extra power came on after 4k rpm. I will be thrilled to get that much of an increase.

      Check out the FAQ on this forum for more/better info.

      I have the TT 268* in mine...awesome power over 4K, good low end still, i've lugged up hills at 2K RPM in third a few times. Advancing the timing considerably (and 93+ octane) helped too . IIRC my ignition timing 24-26* advanced and still no ping with octane booster (108ish) without I usually keep it around 18-20* on 93 pump gas.

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      03-13-2012 03:47 PM #18
      http://www.techtonicstuning.com/cams.html

      Std A2 Hyd "G" 026 109 101 G

      231°/235° 218°/219° 214° .400" 110° -2.8° BTDC '85-92' RD,PF,RV Engines

      268° 109 071 $130.00 268° 245°/244.5° 232.5°/231° 226°/225° .440" 110° 2.8° BTDC All Hyd. Except OBD II Fair Idle**


      definitely got a lot more lift and more duration than the rd cam
      I really suck at smog.

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