Holy @#$%#@$ I havent been on here forever and thought I was dreaming when I saw you had not only a MKII but a 16v at that.
Give me a call.
We spent most of the day in the city goofing off but I try to do a little something on the project every day, so I cut the bad metal out of the other arch. You can get a better sense when the car is on its side how the inner skin, with some work, will meet the outer skin without any metal overlap that would trap moisture.
Top of the arch:
Where the arch meets the rocker:
As a finishing touch, I may weld on a piece of 1/4" steel wire to recreate a nice edge.
With the car on its side I got a better look at how we did with the floor pounding procedure. Not bad, but as expected the beams themselves still look awful. There's no rust so I could leave them as is, but I know myself well enough that if I don't redo them, I'll hate seeing them when I get under the car.
I outlined the part I'm gonna cut out and redo:
The crease I mentionned earlier didn't move, and it's under the seat cross member so I can't push on it. It's where the line is, and you can't see that the whole floor is pushed up 1/2" along that line, enough that it pulled the floor away from the beam:
Obviously a stud gun would be best but I don't have one. I like the trick of welding nuts to the bottom and pulling on those, but I got lazy and used my dent puller as is. In order to pull straight, I screwed a piece of "L" to the bottom, and pulled on that:
The result is very satisfactory:
I'll weld the holes shut and touch up the Schutz before painting the bottom of the car.
Now I gotta find some steel
Okey dokey, baby steps, but steps nevertheless. I got this thing for X-mas, time to try it out:
I started by filling the holes in the floor from pulling the crease out:
I ground them before taking a picture to hide my shame . Be gentle
I'm happier with the frame rail stress cracks:
I don't think I'll grind these, considring my inexperience, I'm happy with them the way they are.
BTW, my welding mentor is a certified medical welder, and he will be inspecting my work before I cover it, to be sure it's adequate, and he will help with anything that is inadequate.
Yes. I removed some surrounding finish, but not enough, especially the Schutz, where I did find myself blowing out little flames
I have a sand blaster, but I've been avoiding it because it makes such a mess. I'll have to use the blaster when I prep for the arches and the tower, since the spaces are too confined to reach by other means.
Last edited by echassin; 04-02-2012 at 04:56 PM.
Angle grinder with a coarse wirebrush works well for the undercoating be gentle and you wont disturb the coat of paint underneath, but wear goggles and something thicker than a T-shirt or you'll end up a metallic porcupine....
When you start putting things back together please keep a list (post it up) of hard to find items or even items you had to have made to compete your project.
I'm inspired by you and others who have taken similar projects on and really thinking of tackling something like this myself.
I need to start a car restoration fund so when the time comes I can roll with it.
Looks good. I've always been happy with the rapid strip discs and +1 for the face shield for whatever you are using to grind. I picked up a full face shield from home depot half way through my project and wore it the whole rest of the timetime. For $10 it will save your face and keep you clean(er).
the strip disc for an angle grinder.
£UK Storm AWD Rocco Project
I may get one of those discs ^^^ I like the way it looks. I have a wire wheel for my angle grider but it's scary as heck.
Today I didn't have a chance to get some metal, so I cleaned up the engine. I've decided to run it it as is, and when it needs it, it'll get a full formal rebuild. All or none, and since it runs well, has good compression and doesn't leak a drop, I'm not gonna rebuild it yet.
Quicky job, but it turned out nice:
Hopefully I'll get some steel pronto.
Looks good, but I would recommend strongly to at least do the rear main seal, and the trans input shaft seal and clutch rod seal, it would suck for them to leak afterwards......even if the rest holds up, IMO those are the minimum, the rest can all be done in place without separating the trans etc.
Normally I would, but it took me only a few minutes to clean the block of any oily residue, and the timing belt looks new. In this case, I'm gambling the the engine has already been worked on and I'm not touching it. If I'm wrong, it'll come back out and I'll eat humble pie
Today I began work in earnest on the shell, starting with one of the beams:
I'm very happy with the result, but I admit I ain't no expert. I waited until after I ground the welds to take pictures because it was not so much "stack of dimes" as it was "bowl of popcorn . The problem was that I cleaned the edges of all Cosmoline, but as the area heated up, some of the residual dripped down into the seam that's closest to the floor (the car's on its side) . I'll take better care to remove ALL of it when I do the other beam.
The old metal actually was healthy, but pretty mangled:
More as time permits
I ended up stitching the first beam because I could only blow a small part of the seam clean, weld a bit before the Cosmoline ran out again.
I just finished the second beam and I used a heat gun ahead of time to melt the Cosmoline and make it all run out:
The steel is a bit thicker than stock, and it's carved from a square tube so it has rounded edges, I tacked and welded the ends first:
Then I tacked the edges and ran welds in between the tacks, this time with a more satisfactory appearance before grinding:
Finished top weld before grinding:
Top weld groud and finished bottom weld:
(You can see the rear weld didn't penetrate well, it broke, and i had to redo it)
Finished beam with hole completed:
I also threw another coat of black on the engine block, it was too thin in some places. I like it thin so it doesn't tend to peel, but I could see some of the primer tint:
Tomorrow I'll fix the rear of the exhaust tunnel and maybe start on that rear shock tower.
not to try and take anything from anyone, but I've never seen a rear main problem until someone screws with it because they have that old GM mentality...vw has never had a problem with rear mains...
...until someone screws with it. I won't touch one unless it's absolutely leaking...and that usually means someone has been there before. keep it up sir, looking fantabulous
Well at least someone agrees with me, and not just anyone!
I got a lot of the welding done today, here's the bottom now:
The rear of the exhaust tunnel:
The hole in the trunk floor:
Some holes in the firewall:
Various brackets and the sheetmetal behind them:
I also got one rear arch done, the picture doesn't show up well, but there's a piece of welding rod along the cut edge of the arch, so it's strong and will look normal, or like a rolled fender. It'll all be under the kit anyways:
Most important, there are no overlapping sheets of metal to trap moisture
I have to work tomorrow, but more progress ASAP
High praise coming from you, thank you sir!
I still have to do the other arch, the one rear tower, and the one cowl corner.
The plan then is to get the shell outside and sandblast any surface rust that remains. Then I can slather on seam sealer to hide the popcorn, er, WELDS
After that I'll paint the bottom, touch up the trunk, interior firewall, and the engine bay, and tape off all those areas to keep them nice as work continues.
Only then will the aesthetic part of the bodywork begin.
And since it's gonna come up soon enough: where do I get a new tank at good price?