You've got some cool parts there
... looking forward to seeing them on your S2
Any ready-made grille is out because while the spacing of the lights is the same as an S1, the lights are raised up to get the "brow" look. I'm set on the lights themselves, but the rest I have yet to work out.
I just got back from a road trip to Dan's place (Mr.Pill), and boy does he deliver!
Minimal work to make it awesome.
And a gorgeous set of Euro bumpers that Dan assures me are old, but they look factory fresh:
The bolts are still plated and the rebar is still totally black
Finally, this also came:
I was kind of surprised that the cost didn't include new strut housings, but thankfully I had a nice set from my hoarding days *phew*.
Tomorrow after work I'll try to get some of this stuff on the car, but for now I'm gonna walk off all these driving induced aches and pains.
A tout a l'heure.
And for a little levity, ridiculous liability sticker on door jamb (sp?):
I also spent more time on the front end:
The headlight brackets are done and installed for good, turns are working, and the headlight buckets are aligned (bulbs arrive tomorrow). I think I'll leave the stock grille off and make a fully inset grille out of welding rods to better emphasize the "brow".
The last brake parts arrive tomorrow, Ronals get here Monday , but I'm out of town till the following weekend, so they'll have to wait . I'm still hoping to have a running, driving, stopping car with functioning electricals by Independance Day.
At which point "all" I have to do is finish and install the other million parts
Mixed results today.
The last brake parts came and I put them on, bled the brakes with Petra at the pedal, got rock hard (the pedal, you perverts ), and adjusted the ebrake cables, all in about an hour.
This is the final setup at the rear:
The hard line is a straight shot, unlike stock where it has to wind around to the bottom of the beam with added bracketry to guide and hold it.
Then, with plenty of daylight left, I mounted the headlight bulbs:
So far so good, until I tested the lights. After 6 hours of ufcking with it until it was dark, no dice.
The high beam bulbs are getting low voltage and glow a bit when the low beams are selected
When high beams are selected:
Everything is off on the right and everything is working on the left.
After pouring over the Bentley schematics and jumping a bunch of isht, I can say unequivocally that the problem persists when the dimmer switch is jumped, when the wires out of the dimmer switch are jumped, and when the fuse box pins are jumped.
Which leaves the main harness in the engine bay, under the battery and the airbox
This is one harness I didn't touch because it looked fine and there was nothing in it to delete.
I don't recall if it worked right before I took the car apart...
The plan when I get back in town is to jump the output the main harness in the bay by going straight from the output pins to the bulbs, so I'll need to make up some long wiring. If it works, I'll try to pull new wires without undoing or removing the harness (not optimistic...)
So, in other words, this just sucks
If you mean the headlight dimmer switch, I jumped that as one of the tests and the problem persisted.
When I select "brights", the whole right side goes out. I know fuse S9 is getting voltage because the bright warning light comes on, but there's no voltage at the white wires where they meet the headlights. Tomorrow I'll check for voltage at pin C16, and if there is none, that would confirm a fault within the fuse box after the takeoff to the brights warning bulb, but before pin C16, and I would hopefully just need another fuse box.
If C16 is getting voltage, then the white wire is faulty (at the very least...)
Actually, the problem is that the S1 headlights and the S2 headlights are actually wired slightly differently.
Basically, Mk2s have the headlight wiring different than the mk1.
EASIEST WAY TO FIX THIS:
Look at your S1's headlight wiring, and note where the colors are (on the ouside and inside headlight beams)
Look at the S2's headlight wiring. Use tiny screwdriver to disengage the terminal clips and switch the wires to match what the S1 had them like.
Allow me to offer one more suggestion:
RELAY YOUR HEADLIGHTS!
Since you have to re-route your wires anyway, it just makes sense.
Timbo's how to:
You will only end up using the low beam and high beam trigger wires and running new power and grounds.
Also, get some Euro H4s. They are amazing!
H4 outer headlights with city light:
H1 inner headlights:
Too late Joe
I do know about the relaying thing, but headlights are something I never cared about upgrading. Chicago is so bright at night from ambient light, frankly you don't need headlights at all . I'm happy as long as they work, which stock ones do.
So Timbo gets the prize for pointing out the wiring difference, which I wouldn't have even considered in a million years (hence the value of a "second opinion"). I have to say that overall this forum is a fantastic resource .
The dim glow from the high beams is gone
The right brights still didn't work, but that's a simple circuit to check. The C16 pin was getting 12 volts, so I knew it was the white wire to the high beams, somewhere in the bay. Probing the wire at the battery where the main harness splits up showed 12 volts, but near the radiator the voltage dropped to 3 volts. AHA!
Sure enough, a small crack in the white wire sheath had allowed water to seep in over the years and rot the white wire.
After unwrapping the harness and replacing the wire with a nice white wire from one of my junk drawers, here's the high beams:
And here's the harness rewrapped where the original failure occured:
I arranged everything so the harness are well sealed and have good support, so hopefully this won't happen again.
Anyhoo, I have to go pack for some R&R
Last edited by echassin; 06-22-2012 at 12:15 PM.
I hate to nit, but relaying isn't just for upgrades. Sure, the added illumination you get when you are running straight power from the battery to the lights is nice, but I feel the more important issue that you correct with relays is preventing your stock switch from melting/catching on fire. It has happened many times, especially with those running H4/H1 bulbs- even happened to me in my Mk1!!!
Ok, getting off my soapbox now.
'81 Scirocco 'S <-- TDI swap, someday...
'05 New Beetle TDI
'86 Golf Diesel, built w/ turbo (Wife's car)
'93 Corrado SLC <-- currently under the knife...
If the issue is just to keep the switch from catching fire, wouldn't it be much simpler to run one new power power from the battery to under the dash and wire 2 relays (high and low) to the headlight switch? I wouldn't relay my headlights in the way mentioned just because how much of a mess it makes.
Or you could do what I do, leave the stock wiring in place, tucked away for use as a back up if need be, then I just run leads from the drivers side connecter to the relays, which I have 3 of... One for the low beams, then one for the outer light high beams, and one for the inner driving lights
Oh, and I run Hella Optilux 80/100w H4's, and Hella 130w H3's which I got from rallylights.com