Help!!! My VW is possessed!

[poiznivy25]

Ok, so I bought a 2005 VW Jetta 2.0, manual trans. last week. I got a great deal, but bought it from a body shop, and the owner knew surprisingly little about anything mechanical. Since I bought it I have had a few different issues, which I can't find information on, and the car didn't come with the owner's manual, so I'm stuck.

First, the alarm goes off randomly in the middle of the night. This has happened 4 times in the past week, and there is never anyone near the car.

Second, the door panel cluster on the driver's side is completely inoperable. The cluster is there, but nothing works (windows, locks, side mirror controls) I hope this may be a fuse, but as I have no owner's manual I have no clue which fuse it would be.

Third, sometimes the car runs and shifts between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm's, sometimes it's between 3,000 and 4,000 rpm's, but feels the same. Almost as if the rpm sensor isn't working properly.

Fourth, the radio stays on, even when the car is off, door is opened, etc. It won't go off until I push it off, which worries me I will one day walk out to a dead battery.

Fifth, the bell alarm for leaving the lights on does not work.

Sixth, the seat lever to move the back part of the seat (to lean back, forward) does not do anything, but the lever does hit the ground. Are these plastic on the inside, and thus easily fixed?

Seventh, sometimes the sensor for a door being ajar randomly comes on, but no door is open, as I'm usually driving when this happens.

And finally, just today my heck engine light came on...

I bought this car because it had a dent in the back quarter-panel, and so I got it for cheap. But, the car was hit by something with a high bumper (like a truck) so the damage didn't even crack the plastic on the wheel wells, or do any damage to the axles, etc. Further, since most of my problems seem to be electrical I don't see how this is related. I am a law student, and so I'm unemployed (not allowed to work in 1st year) so I have very few resources to look into any of these issues, and spent everything I have on the car... Any help would be appreciated, and any link to an owner's manual of some sort that doesn't cost would be wonderful as well. Thank you

[Rockerchick]

Ok, so I bought a 2005 VW Jetta 2.0, manual trans. last week. I got a great deal, but bought it from a body shop, and the owner knew surprisingly little about anything mechanical. Since I bought it I have had a few different issues, which I can't find information on, and the car didn't come with the owner's manual, so I'm stuck.

First, the alarm goes off randomly in the middle of the night. This has happened 4 times in the past week, and there is never anyone near the car.

Second, the door panel cluster on the driver's side is completely inoperable. The cluster is there, but nothing works (windows, locks, side mirror controls) I hope this may be a fuse, but as I have no owner's manual I have no clue which fuse it would be.

Third, sometimes the car runs and shifts between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm's, sometimes it's between 3,000 and 4,000 rpm's, but feels the same. Almost as if the rpm sensor isn't working properly.

You say its a manual trans, but this sounds like automatic. I'm a bit confused by this.

Fourth, the radio stays on, even when the car is off, door is opened, etc. It won't go off until I push it off, which worries me I will one day walk out to a dead battery.

Fifth, the bell alarm for leaving the lights on does not work.

Sixth, the seat lever to move the back part of the seat (to lean back, forward) does not do anything, but the lever does hit the ground. Are these plastic on the inside, and thus easily fixed?

Seventh, sometimes the sensor for a door being ajar randomly comes on, but no door is open, as I'm usually driving when this happens.

And finally, just today my heck engine light came on...

Go to Autozone, etc. and they will scan the car for free. Bring the codes back here and we'll see whats up.

I bought this car because it had a dent in the back quarter-panel, and so I got it for cheap. But, the car was hit by something with a high bumper (like a truck) so the damage didn't even crack the plastic on the wheel wells, or do any damage to the axles, etc. Further, since most of my problems seem to be electrical I don't see how this is related. I am a law student, and so I'm unemployed (not allowed to work in 1st year) so I have very few resources to look into any of these issues, and spent everything I have on the car... Any help would be appreciated, and any link to an owner's manual of some sort that doesn't cost would be wonderful as well. Thank you

Added a couple comments in bold.

As for 1, 5, and 7 seems like they could be related. Sounds like a common microswitch failure. Got a few links for you to read up on. It can be a cheap fix and can be done yourself:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1542461
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=77648

[poiznivy25]

Yes, it is a manual transmission, standard 5 speed... that's why I was confused with the rpm sensor, as it literally is sometimes just 1,000 rpms higher, but while using the same gears, going the same speed, while sounding the same, like the rpm sensor is messed up or something. I will take it to autozone about the light tomorrow and let you know what they said. Thanks for the response and the links, I'll read up on them now.

[poiznivy25]

Ok, just looked up the light, and it's actually the exhaust malfunction indicator, if the interwebs is to be believed... Can autozone still diagnose this?

[deagle]

hope you didn't buy a lemon with all those demons in your car

[mad8vskillz]

Ok, just looked up the light, and it's actually the exhaust malfunction indicator, if the interwebs is to be believed... Can autozone still diagnose this?

head on over into the mk4 forums for better advice.
the CEL comes on when error codes are stored in the computer. unless you know the error code, the problem could be absolutely anything. Go to autozone and they scan you for free and tell you what the code is.

[Theoretic]

Ok, so I bought a 2005 VW Jetta 2.0, manual trans. last week. I got a great deal, but bought it from a body shop, and the owner knew surprisingly little about anything mechanical. Since I bought it I have had a few different issues, which I can't find information on, and the car didn't come with the owner's manual, so I'm stuck.

First, the alarm goes off randomly in the middle of the night. This has happened 4 times in the past week, and there is never anyone near the car.

Sounds like your door sensor. Same thing happened to me. Only way to fix it is to replace it.

Second, the door panel cluster on the driver's side is completely inoperable. The cluster is there, but nothing works (windows, locks, side mirror controls) I hope this may be a fuse, but as I have no owner's manual I have no clue which fuse it would be.

Third, sometimes the car runs and shifts between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm's, sometimes it's between 3,000 and 4,000 rpm's, but feels the same. Almost as if the rpm sensor isn't working properly.

You say its a manual trans, but this sounds like automatic. I'm a bit confused by this.

Fourth, the radio stays on, even when the car is off, door is opened, etc. It won't go off until I push it off, which worries me I will one day walk out to a dead battery.

Fifth, the bell alarm for leaving the lights on does not work.

Ignore it, same thing happened to me as well. I guess they just wear out after a while.

Sixth, the seat lever to move the back part of the seat (to lean back, forward) does not do anything, but the lever does hit the ground. Are these plastic on the inside, and thus easily fixed?

Seventh, sometimes the sensor for a door being ajar randomly comes on, but no door is open, as I'm usually driving when this happens.

Sounds like the door sensor again

And finally, just today my heck engine light came on...

Go to Autozone, etc. and they will scan the car for free. Bring the codes back here and we'll see whats up

I bought this car because it had a dent in the back quarter-panel, and so I got it for cheap. But, the car was hit by something with a high bumper (like a truck) so the damage didn't even crack the plastic on the wheel wells, or do any damage to the axles, etc. Further, since most of my problems seem to be electrical I don't see how this is related. I am a law student, and so I'm unemployed (not allowed to work in 1st year) so I have very few resources to look into any of these issues, and spent everything I have on the car... Any help would be appreciated, and any link to an owner's manual of some sort that doesn't cost would be wonderful as well. Thank you

Added a couple more things, not much though. Hope you resolve all of it!

[bigred324]

Replace the battery in the key FOB and the alarm should stop turning on.

[poiznivy25]

Ok, so I was checking out my fuses to see if that might be the problem with the door cluster, and found fuse 6, which is labeled 'central locking mechanism' was missing. Went to autozone and replaced the fuse, now the door locks on the driver's side cluster work, but still no dice with the windows. I also had them plug in the car, and they told me the error was an oxygen sensor, but that the car has two, and they couldn't tell me which one, and that unless I take it to an actual shop, or it is obviously broken, my mechanic friend won't be able to tell which is screwing up either... is this true? How urgent is this oxygen sensor replacement? And is there any cheap wholesaler I can get one from (as previously mentioned, unemployed law student = poor)

Next, I saw on some forums that when the door switch is messed up if you lock the car with the key instead of the FOB button it would prevent the alarm from going off? I tried this the last two days, and the alarm hasn't gone off again, does this confirm it's a door switch? Also, with the window cluster not working I have seen that there is a wire harness underneath, so possibly pulling the cluster out and checking the wires could fix this, right?

Any help is much appreciated, as mentioned I do have a mechanic friend, who I am taking the car to next friday (a week from tomorrow) and I'm going to have him check the window harness, change the oil, check fluids, maybe replace the oxygen sensor (if it is urgent), so if I can get enough knowledge and a plan of action before then to attempt to fix all the problems that would be great. Thanks Again!!

[Rockerchick]

What was the actual code that they pulled? (Should be something like P0300, etc). That would help for figuring out which sensor it is.

Also, did you read the threads I posted before? Lots of info on the door switches and how to troubleshoot them.

[Viveka]

First of all ,it's not possessed. It is alive . It must be confusing if you owned a domestic car or a toyota.

Alot of VWs have pretty weird wiring glitches and if you/your mechanic is not familiar with these cars , it can turn into a nightmare.

Remember Volkswagens are different than other cars. You must be patient with them.

BTW - most VWs with more than 60,000 miles on them have an O2 sensor code.Its what they do. Most people just ignore until there is a fuel mileage or engine performance issue.

[poiznivy25]

Ok, the code from Autozone is P2196 .... It says heated oxygen sensor - Bank 1 sensor 1 Sensor signal stuck rich Explanation - Blocked exhaust Probable cause - 1. High fuel pressure 2. failed fuel injectors 3. failed fuel pressure regulator.

So this confirms it's an oxygen sensor right? Which sensor is 1? Thanks Again

[vastxpunk]

Ok, the code from Autozone is P2196 .... It says heated oxygen sensor - Bank 1 sensor 1 Sensor signal stuck rich Explanation - Blocked exhaust Probable cause - 1. High fuel pressure 2. failed fuel injectors 3. failed fuel pressure regulator.

So this confirms it's an oxygen sensor right? Which sensor is 1? Thanks Again

sensor 1 is the one before the cat.

[bigred324]

Go to Advance Auto Parts, not the zone.

[poiznivy25]

Ok, I have found some pre-cat sensors online, and this is the cheapest one I can find.... According to Bosch it is the correct part for my car, but I want to make sure before I purchase it... It is a 4 wire, is that correct? Here's the link,

http://www.righttoolusa.com/p/Bosch-...r-3198918.html

Thank you for helping!

[GermanGLI05]

Go stroke your transmisson, and if transmission fluid squirts out you need a new one. If nothing squirts out you just need to change the fluid!!

[poiznivy25]

Go stroke your transmisson, and if transmission fluid squirts out you need a new one. If nothing squirts out you just need to change the fluid!!

I don't think I have a transmission problem... where did you get that?

[GermanGLI05]

okay, go get some gloves so you dont get transmission fluid all over your hand. get under your car or raise it up. put some oil on your gloves (use latex gloves) and move your hand over the middle of the transmission. take off the seal (cap) and if fluid is coming out when you're stroking it, your **** is all F***** up.

[TheMel]

Ok, the code from Autozone is P2196 .... It says heated oxygen sensor - Bank 1 sensor 1 Sensor signal stuck rich Explanation - Blocked exhaust Probable cause - 1. High fuel pressure 2. failed fuel injectors 3. failed fuel pressure regulator.

So this confirms it's an oxygen sensor right? Which sensor is 1? Thanks Again

Wait..... Are we sure that the sensor isn't working? Maybe it's throwing up these codes because there's actually something wrong and the sensor is just doing its job, but I'm not sure... Fuel injector problem, bad fuel regulator (which is surprisingly easy to change), banana in the tailpipe... Does anyone know an easy way poiz can double-check?

@Poiz: If you've already replaced any of these things posted in this thread, I'd be personally interested in how it went. Please post again as you progress!

[poiznivy25]

First, German, go **** yourself... I believe I mentioned I'm a law student, I'm not an idiot... I believe your trolling skills, you probably use shirtless in your mother's basement, would be better served at some teenybopper bull**** site... try a Bieber fanclub page or something, might be more your speed.... slow.

Anyways, on to more important business, I ordered the replacement oxygen sensor, but the company of course shipped me the wrong one, so after returning it, the new one is supposed to arrive tomorrow. Yes, I believe it is indeed the oxygen sensor, as my gas mileage is about 20mpg currently, and I think what blew it was the fact that the car sat for over 9 months before I bought it, and that old gas cycling through killed the sensor. I should have thought about that issue, but I didn't, and hindsight is always 20/20 right?

Anyways, in the mean time I took the door apart to try to fix the window issues. I looked at all the wiring, and it all looked complete, so I thought it might be the actual window switch, as the only buttons that would work on it were the lock buttons. However, I ordered a replacement window switch, got it today, and when I plugged it in, the replacement only worked for the lock/unlock buttons as well, so it is not the window switch. So now I am back to possible wiring issues. Does anyone know of something I should check first, or some sort of fuse or conjunction of the wires that would be a good starting point? If so that would be great.

Other than that I took the rest of the door apart to make an attempt on the door switch issues, and got all the way down to the last metal interior door part to realize that they reverse ratchetted the damn thing to the other side... after putting 6 bolts on this side... wtf were they trying to prove?! And of course, I don't have a drill, so I had to put the whole thing back together, accomplishing nothing, until I can borrow a drill, which will hopefully be this weekend. Is there any more ****ed up surprises I should be prepared for?

All in all, I'm getting frustrated, and keep running into walls with this damn thing... I just want decent gas mileage, working door locks/alarm, and a driver's side window that will roll down...

[TheMel]

First, German, go **** yourself... I believe I mentioned I'm a law student, I'm not an idiot... I believe your trolling skills, you probably use shirtless in your mother's basement, would be better served at some teenybopper bull**** site... try a Bieber fanclub page or something, might be more your speed.... slow...

German was just joking. You're not being very cool. I refuse to help any further.

[emkaytree]

but bought it from a body shop

Mistake # 1.

which I CAN find information on if I searched

/Fixed.

First, the alarm goes off randomly in the middle of the night. This has happened 4 times in the past week, and there is never anyone near the car.

Either A: door sensor as mentioned. B: Already Bad Battery (even if it cranks and runs some, it's loosing some charge overnight, replace it if near the end date or few years old.) C: Pinched/Damaged wires in rubber boot in door. Alarm wires run through here, they get damaged and frayed with open/close/time. The boot pulls off the connector, do not pull the connector out of it's sockets.

Second, the door panel cluster on the driver's side is completely inoperable. The cluster is there, but nothing works (windows, locks, side mirror controls) I hope this may be a fuse, but as I have no owner's manual I have no clue which fuse it would be.

Refer to C above. Probably same wire issue.

Third, sometimes the car runs and shifts between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm's, sometimes it's between 3,000 and 4,000 rpm's, but feels the same. Almost as if the rpm sensor isn't working properly.

Shamwut. If the rpm gauge is going a little haywire, but the motor runs fine, probably not the cam/crank position sensors, probably the solder joints in the cluster itself failing. Other gauges will act up on you soon.

Fourth, the radio stays on, even when the car is off, door is opened, etc. It won't go off until I push it off, which worries me I will one day walk out to a dead battery.

I feel this may be solved when you tackle your alarm wire issues/door sensor.

Fifth, the bell alarm for leaving the lights on does not work.

Common issue. Be sure the person before you have not pulled out the relay with a speaker on it.

Sixth, the seat lever to move the back part of the seat (to lean back, forward) does not do anything, but the lever does hit the ground. Are these plastic on the inside, and thus easily fixed?

Mistake #2. Your doing it wrong. That lever controls the height of the seat. Pull the lever then pull yourself up holding the wheel, the seat will come up with you. Pull the lever and push the wheel to push your body/seat back down. It's a weird motion. I love when passengers thinking that is the seat let down pull on it trying to access rear seats and get scared as hell from the seat jumping up at them. Classic I love it every time.

There is a wheel on the side of the seat which is what controls forward/backward of upper seat movement. Turning counter clockwise brings it forward, clockwise to lay it back like a gangsta.

Seventh, sometimes the sensor for a door being ajar randomly comes on, but no door is open, as I'm usually driving when this happens.

Common issue door sensor switch.

I bought this car because it had a dent in the back quarter-panel, and so I got it for cheap. But, the car was hit by something with a high bumper (like a truck) so the damage didn't even crack the plastic on the wheel wells, or do any damage to the axles, etc. Further, since most of my problems seem to be electrical I don't see how this is related. I am a law student, and so I'm unemployed (not allowed to work in 1st year) so I have very few resources to look into any of these issues, and spent everything I have on the car... Any help would be appreciated, and any link to an owner's manual of some sort that doesn't cost would be wonderful as well. Thank you

Old mark 4 with rear quarter panel damage. No maintenance records. No one selling it had any clue about anything on the car. Mistake #3.

Now you don't know how old timing belt, spark plugs, coil, or any other regular maintenance part. This leaves you clueless, as anything can go at anytime without anticipation. I'd replace the timing belt, it's tensioner, coolant temp sensor, crack pipe, tstat sensor housing, valve cover gasket, plugs, coil, wires, distro/cap. But you can't Soooo...

Good Luck.

[poiznivy25]

Ok, here's some updates on the car issues... First, I replaced the oxygen sensor (getting the old one out took a torch, and literally broke a craftsman universal socket..) but after all of that, the car exhaust noise intensified to immense levels. Took it in to a shop and was told (and shown) that the converter pipe assembly had completely detached. I tried to call VW and get it replaced because of the government warranty on the car, but while I was under the 8 year warranty, I was 3,000 miles over the 80,000 mile limit... So, ended up paying to replace the converter pipe with an aftermarket one (welding it on) as the entire part from VW, which includes the entire exhaust is over $800. Anyways, this fixed the oxygen sensor light, and I probably never needed to replace the damn thing in the future.

A few months ago I had to replace the battery, as the one I purchased with the car was bad, so this has solved my alarm issues... At least so far. Further, I have been trying to fix the window switch on the driver's door, and have gone through numerous options. So far I have pulled off the door and checked all the wires, including the rubber boot, and all are appropriately wrapped, and intact. Next I ordered a new window switch, but when plugged in, this one didn't work either, meaning it isn't a problem with the switch. So, now I am down to thinking it is the fuse relay under the hood. If anyone has any info on the fuse relay, and if this could be the cause that would be much appreciated. Heres the deal with it, on the driver's side, none of the four window switches work, nor does the side mirror adjustment button. However, the other three windows work fine when you push the window switches on those doors. This has led me to believe that it isn't the window motor in the drivers door, because I can't imagine that being out inhibiting the other window switches on the door from working (correct me if I'm wrong).

So, my question is this, would a blown fuse relay effect the driver's door switches, but not the other door switches on the individual doors? Because if all of these functions are under one relay, then that is obviously not my problem. Any help is appreciated.