CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST!

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:30 PM

First, a quick note to newcomers:

VW has NO plans of creating a new Corrado. If you've seen "concept" photos floating around the net, they're FAKE.

Sorry for the harsh tone, but we get plenty of threads from people asking about "the new Corrado," which doesn't exist in real life.

Another note - this thread was started to collect photos and mod lists, check here if you want to find out about other user's cars: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1237305

Back to the FAQ:

The intentions behind creating this FAQ are twofold: 1) to provide basic information to newcomers so that they can ask informed questions, and 2) to provide a reference source for common information to the regulars.

If you have a question that you think is common, or if you're new and need some background info about Corrados in general, please spend a few minutes looking through this FAQ.

THE FAQ TABLE OF CONTENTS:

General Corrado topics:
-Buying a Corrado - what to look for, how much they're worth
-1.8t Conversions
-Tinting your tail lights, Aftermarket tails
-Euro lights
-Sunroof Problems, Fixes, etc.
-Dyno results with various modifications
-Body kits
-Suspension Modifications
-Putting a vr6 into a g60 Corrado, and swapping other parts between the two models
-Carbon fiber hoods
-Oil and water temps, causes of abnormal temps and fixes
-List of tuners and parts sources for OEM and aftermarket parts
-Jacking up a Corrado, and placement of jack stands
-Gear ratios and tranny swaps from other cars
-Storing your car for the winter
-ABS repair and diagnostics
-FPR's - how they work
-Custom interior work
-What to do if your passenger's side footwell gets wet when it rains
-Timing chains and clutch install on a VR6 Useful for g60 cars, too - gives instructions for removing the tranny.
Audi A4/A6 door handle how-to
-Corrado drivability troubleshooting tips
-Corrado recall information
-MFI and MFA

g60 topics:
-G60 Rebuilder Ratings (from the g60 forum)
-Rebuilding the g60 Charger
-BOV's, the boost return hose, and related topics
-Turbo conversions for the g60 Corrado
-16v g60 Information
-Checking the boost on your MFA, What boost you should have with different pullies, etc.
-Overview of g60 modifications
-4 lug to 5 lug conversion (ie, swapping the 5-lug setup from the SLC on to a g60)
-Removing the g60 charger
-Automatic to Manual transmission conversions
-Removal of the bumper and stock intercooler
-Motor mount options - OEM and aftermarket
-Exhaust systems

vr6 topics:
-12v VR6 Forum FAQ (Lots of good info!)
-Headgasket problems and fix info
-Cooling system problems and coolant info
-Timing chain, guides and tensioners
-Chips for the vr6 engine
-SLC Air Conditioning Information
-How-to Guide: Replacing vr6 timing chains

Image Hosting!
One of our forum members, SLCorrado, has been cool enough to set up an image hosting site for us to use. The address is www.hostdub.com - go there and check it out if you are looking for a place to host images for posting on these forums!

-Nate

Modified by vw mofo at 7:01 AM 3-22-2004

Modified by yellowslc at 8:41 AM 2-8-2009

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:38 PM

To start things off on the right foot, here are some threads about buying a Corrado, problems to look for when buying one, and/or what forum members think of specific cars for sale that people are considering:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=516340

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=504786

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=499472

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=474229

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=465765

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=451468

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=449434

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=439898

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=429406

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=419268

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=395876

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=389417

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=387373

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=375510

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=351040

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=317871

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=282238

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=212961

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=202858

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=187410

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=179771

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=177227

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=175516

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=166679

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=168534

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=163526

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=161742

-Nate

[Modified by SaabFan, 12:45 PM 10-28-2002]

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:38 PM

And here are some threads about doing a 1.8T conversion:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=305211

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=267235

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=259931

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=240760

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=208339

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=169207

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=123498

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=252140

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=245933

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=234350

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=159605

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:39 PM

Here are some about rebuilding the g60 charger, where you should or shouldn't get it rebuilt, why or why not to rebuild it yourself, what parts should or shouldn't be used, how much a rebuild costs, etc:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=542088

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=459731

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=421076

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=417929

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=405252

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=402143

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=403311

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=384754

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=372922

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=359706

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=373080

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=354762

Those were all from in here (Corrado Forum.) The ones below are from in the g60 forum, and may (or may not I suppose) be a bit more helpful and technical in nature:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=539589

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=532459

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=536081

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=531031

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=505989

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=500597

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=494430

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=473657

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=461342

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=446959

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=429062

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=418383

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=402844

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=357864

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:39 PM

Threads about tinting your tail lights - what kind of spray paint people have used, different techniques, colors, etc. Also, a few threads about aftermarket tail lights:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=541790

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=238990

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=489231

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=392694

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=320645

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=273342

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=234033

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=184140

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=502751

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=451791

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=365543

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=327158

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=260843

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=249065

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=211095

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=144461

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:40 PM

Some info for the g60 people: info on installing BOV's, removing the boost return, and related topics. Note that I tried to pick threads related to stock g60 setups, not turbo conversions:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=542007

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=542386

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=541973

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=535621

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=534385

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=446418

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=343170

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=392229

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=260628

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=240624

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:40 PM

And now some threads on turbo conversions for the g60. Included are a few "should I stay with the g60 or go turbo?" type threads:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=332904

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=264736

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=250746

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=247691

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=247713

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=245512

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=134146

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=131727

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=126860

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=130809

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=122300

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=120356

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=120058

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=116052

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=118402

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=117452

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=114050

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:40 PM

Some g60 16v threads. Mostly on converting a stock g60 (8 valve) engine to 16v, but some info on more wild stuff - using g60 management on 16v engines for turbo applications, etc.

First, here's a link to a Yahoo group with lots of info on 16vG60's.

Second, OttawaG60 has a very good How-To page about the conversion.

Third, here are some archived threads:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=537957

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=234203

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=267651

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=255858

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=240902

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=126885

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=125355

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=119808

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=262740

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=248538

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=241513

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=119669

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=116957

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=120457

-Nate

[Modified by SaabFan, 8:28 AM 11-14-2002]

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:40 PM

Eurolights (aka European-spec headlights, e-codes, whatever) info. Including some info on wiring harnesses for them or for stock lights:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=471726

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=544672

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=523780

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=521749

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=521892

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=486722

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=481693

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=363498

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=470366

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=402370

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=365514

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=270101

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=193687

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=142645

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=129243

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:41 PM

Sunroof problems, fixes, replacing the sunroof with Passat moonroof, etc.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=566914

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=537488

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=531543

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=451908

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=516579

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=511836

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=490407

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=483297

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=476518

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=469439

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=467198

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=453673

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=425949

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=432836

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=440025

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=446953

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=421617

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=411930

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=406959

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=406427

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=389938

-Nate

[Modified by SaabFan, 3:36 PM 10-31-2002]

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:41 PM

Checking the boost on your g60 using the MFA, how much boost you should be making with X size pulley, installing a boost gauge, boost leaks, etc:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=415154

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=414739

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=383609

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=386183

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=376431

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=366139

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=332417

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=340114

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=413971

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=384312

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=379846

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=353955

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:42 PM

Some threads where users have posted dyno results or scans of dyno graphs. These posts are an excellent source of info if you're wondering how much power you'll make with certain modifications.
For the g60 engine:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=182705

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=121754

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=479629

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=477154

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=470545

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=460409

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=448017

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=444568

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=373481

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=372273

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=365680

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=232733

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=200800

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=118881

And a special g60 dyno run thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=305302

Now for the vr6 engine:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=450752

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=458335

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=450997

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=441960

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=437679

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=429542

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=400184

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=415426

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=396616

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=397869

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=374367

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=343173

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=313839

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:42 PM

mack73's post about body kits:

quote:
There are basically 9 companies making 12 front bumpers to choose from, they are 1. ABD/Erebuni/Oettinger, 2. Dietrich, 3. Mattig, 4. Rieger GTB, GTS, R-RS and GTO styles, 5. Zender, 6. Kamei, 7. Seidl, 8. Lumma, 9. RS
1. The ABD/Erebuni/Oettinger are all the same made my different companies- Oettinger made the bumper originally but has since quit, ABD sell one ( http://www.abdracing.com ), also Erebuni sells one- called style 846 ( http://www.groundeffects.com )
2, 3 and 4 (R-RS style) are almost identical. The major difference is in the overall height of the bumpers and the fact that the Mattig requires the use of MK3 turns and fogs. The lowest bumper is the Mattig followed by the Rieger, the highest from the ground is the Dietrich. The Dietrich and Mattig are full replacements, whereas the Rieger is an add on to the stock bumper, Also the Rieger is made out of ABS instead of fiberglass like the Dietrich and Mattig. The Dietrich can be bought directly from Germany ( http://www.dietrichtuning.de ) or through distributors in the US. The Mattig and Rieger can be bought through distributors in the US like RPI Equipped ( http://www.rpi-equipped.com )
4. Rieger GTB, GTS and the Widebody GTO styles are all available from RPI ( http://www.rpi-equipped.com )
5. The Zender is also not made anymore but a copy can be found from Erebuni, On there website its called style 190
6. The Kamei Freedom Design Bodykit can be bought from Rocky Mountain Motorworks under the label Aero Kit G60 and Vr6 ( http://www.motorworks.com )
7. The Siedl “Venus” bumper is made in europe by Siedl Tuning and can be bought from their website ( http://www.seidl-tuning.de ). There is a US copy made by e-strictly foreign but all of there stuff is made very badly so stay away from all of there stuff.
8. The Lumma Bumper. This bumper is also made in europe by Lumma Tuning. It can be purchased from Stroeve Motorsports ( http://www.csi-auto.nl/carshopping/0512 )
9. Lastly the RS bumper, The bumper uses turn signals from A2’s. It can be purchased from TM Tuning ( http://www.tmtuning.com )
Now sideskirts, there are basically 7 companies making 10 different sideskirts, 1. The ones that goes with the ABD/Erebuni/Oettinger kit, 2. Rieger R-RS Infinity, GTB, GTS, GTO, 3. Custom ones made by Zarman on Vortex,. 4. Zender, 5. Kamei, 6. Seidl, 7. Lumma
1. The ABD/Erebuni/Oettinger ones can be bought from the sites previously given
2. The Rieger sides can be bought from the previously listed site
3. Zarman's custom ones can be bought from his site ( http://www.lunchbox3.com/shop/ )
4. Zender sideskirts can be bought from the previously listed sites
5. Kamei sideskirts can be bought from the previously listed sites
6. Seidl sideskirts can be bought from the previously listed sites
7. Lumma sideskirts can be bought from the previously listed sites
Lastly Rear Aprons, There are 8 companies making 10 different bumper options to choose from The last option requires custom modifications to any US spec front chin spoiler, 1. ABD/Erebuni/Oettinger, 2. Dietrich, 3. Mattig, 4. Rieger GTB, R-RS, GTO, 5. Zender, 6. Kamei, 7. Seidl, 8. Lumma, 9. Some people use a stock chin spoiler as a rear apron
1. ABD/Erebuni/Oettinger rear bumpers can be found at the sites listed above
2. Dietrich makes a rear bumper, the only modification is a indent for a license plate in the bumper instead of on the hatch, again they can be purchased at the previously site
3. Mattig does the same thing and Dietrich and makes a bumper with an indent for a license plate; The bumper can be purchased at the previous site
4. Rieger GTB, R-RS, GTO Rear bumpers can be purchased from the previously listed site
5. Zender rear bumpers can be found again at the Erebuni site
6. Kamei rear bumpers can be purchased from the previously listed site
7. Seidl rear bumpers can be purchased from the previously listed site
8. Lumma rear bumpers can be purchased from the previously listed site
9. The Stock chin spoiler takes a lot of custom work; basically it requires cutting the spoiler at the exhaust cut out, and bending the ends to match the contour of the rear bumper. Lastly the ends need to be cut off at the wheel well and end caps glued or plastic welded back on
Pictures for all of these kits can be found at there respective websites. There are many other sources to purchase these bodyparts, I only supplied one such source
[Modified by mack73, 11:12 PM 10-15-2002]

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:43 PM

VR6 Headgasket issues. Repair procedures, parts lists, photos, etc:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=500251

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=459507

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=454789

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=455944

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=456359

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=418649

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=415157

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=288444

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=266526

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:43 PM

VR6 Coolant issues - leaks, flushing the system, what coolant to use, etc.:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=502269

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=493325

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=495995

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=481542

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=488272

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=484579

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=481042

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=462762

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=433173

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:43 PM

VR6 - Timing chain, guides, and tensioners issues:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=499710

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=500208

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=494013

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=488382

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=490454

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=482387

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=447926

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=463354

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=456963

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=440883

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=423952

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:44 PM

More VR6 - Chips - who makes em, which chip people like or don't like, where to buy em, what chips work well with certain modifications, etc.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=114299

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=415594

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=258717

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=259943

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=259837

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=253093

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=258387

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=255982

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=252175

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=248256

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=245423

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=243750

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=240794

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=179097

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 10-28-2002 12:44 PM

Suspension modifications.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=331230

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=268645

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=260261

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=251266

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=256629

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=248798

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=217989

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=209589

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=188589

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=170564

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=158909

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=140286

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=139058

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=133036

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 11-04-2002 03:02 PM

Threads about swapping a vr6 engine into a g60 Corrado, and swapping other parts back and forth between SLC's and g60's:

Engine swaps:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=431998

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=432279

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=358468

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=347060

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=287837

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=273394

Swapping other parts:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=511986

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=507710

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=502372

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=499371

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=496547

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=489594

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=487564

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=430496

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=377606

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 11-04-2002 03:07 PM

Carbon fiber hoods:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=545937

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=515663

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=493463

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=463614

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=433737

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=392177

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=408959

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=359404

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=323047

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=340551

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=300324

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 11-05-2002 11:48 AM

Oil and water (coolant) temps - what people are running, and how to diagnose and fix problems with low or high temps:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=566950

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=452834

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=462146

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=403670

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=341174

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=208242

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=432311

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=397382

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=462835

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=469144

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=304532

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=249750

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=345507

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=482367

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=469511

-Nate

**SaabFan** · 11-05-2002 04:29 PM

Updated 12/13/2002

Modifications for the g60 engine. This is only a basic list of posts discussing common modifications, and is not meant to be exhaustive.

Here's a great post on some "gentle" first modifications for people that want a good bump in power without going all-out:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=565579

And here are some posts on some less common modifications:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=133162

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=325609

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=384778

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=328065

Posts on more common mods:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=230536

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=151529

A few of my own notes:

1) Maintenance before Modification. Making sure your car is in tip-top shape before you go throwing modifications at it is very important. If you've got driveability problems and an engine that stumbles (or whatever) and you try to modify your engine for more power, you'll probably be very disappointed.

2) Hang out in the g60 forum. Read old threads. This is probably one of the best ways to get a handle on what's going on in the g60 world, and to get a good feel for what people are doing and what problems they are having.

And here's a basic explanation of the "stage" kits you commonly hear people discuss for the g60 engine.

Stage II:
-ISV reroute or check valve
-68mm pulley for the supercharger
-Appropriate chip
-Low-temp fan switch and check valve

Stage III:
-Same as stage III with (usually) a 260 deg. cam

Stage IV:
-Same, with a 268/260 cam and stage IV chip

Stage V:
Not well defined, usually all of the above and some of the following:
-Larger injectors
-Smaller pulley (62mm, 58mm and so on)
-More aggressive cam
-Porting modifications - head, intake manifold, throttle body, etc.
-Chips with different functionality

In addition, you'll see many people talking about other methods of forced induction on the g60 engine - different superchargers and turbos. Those usually recieve the same modifications as above.

And here's a basic run-down of the modifications listed above:

ISV reroute or check valve - not a direct power adder itself, a reroute or check valve is more to be certain that your ISV isn't leaking boost. The reroute kit repositions the tube exiting the ISV such that any leakage is just dumped into the intake piping and thus not lost, and the check valve simply doesn't allow air to flow "backwards" through the ISV. Basically, you need one or the other, not both.

Low temp fan switch and thermostat - Used to ensure that your engine does not overheat under the additional stress of power-adding modifications. Note though that it is very important to have your cooling system working properly before you throw power parts at your car. You want these parts as insurance, not as band-aids to hide the fact that your cooling system is in bad shape. In fact, there's been some debate as to wether or not you should even use these parts.

Smaller Supercharger Pulleys - These are key to g60 performance. Basically, the g60 charger spins at a certain ratio to the crankshaft rpm's, since it is driven off a belt from the crank. So, the size of the pulley on the charger will determine the speed the charger is spun at a given engine speed. So, if you put a smaller pulley on, you'll get a faster spinning charger, which will give you more boost. Basically, pullies are the "boost controller" of the g60 world.

(Side note about charger reliability!)But, there are limits. The g60 charger wasn't meant to be spun at crazy speeds, and doing so only stresses an already fragile charger. This has several implications - first off, you shouldn't play with smaller pullies on a charger in unknown condition. Send the charger to a reputable rebuilder and get it checked out before you notice signs of failure. BBM, ORZ, and KK all have good reputations.

The classic choice in a small pulley - 68mm - is fine to have on a daily driver car, and if your charger is in good shape and you've got a level head, having one on your car should not worry you. However, using pullies smaller than that, or running a 68mm (or even stock) pulley on a charger in unknown condition is just asking for trouble unless you know what you're doing.

Fuel Pressure Regulators - Without getting into a complicated explanation of how your fueling system works, here's the simplified version - the computer controls the amount of fuel entering your engine by opening and closing the injectors really really quickly. So, in a given amount of time, the injectors will be open for a certain percentage of that time, and closed for the rest of the time. The Percentage that they are open is called the duty cycle and helps determine the amount of fuel that reaches the engine. The other main factor that determines fuel amount is the pressure of the fuel in the fuel rail. The fuel rail is just a fancy plastic pipe that connects the four injectors together. Basically, for a given duty cycle, the higher the pressure, the more fuel will be injected. So, if you increase the fuel pressure, you'll increase the amount of fuel delivered.

It gets a bit more complicated than that, but that's basically the reason why you need a fuel pressure regulator (or FPR) upgrade when you do the basic "stage" kits discussed above. The chip(s) you put on your car to provide proper fueling are programmed with certain parameters in mind, and one of those is that there will be a higher pressure fpr on your car! The most common choice for an fpr is a 3.5 bar unit, which is half a bar higher than the stock 3.0 bar unit. Be careful though - there are scads of fpr's from other cars that will bolt on, you need to be sure that you're getting a 3.5 bar unit. For example, a common place that people get these units is from Porsche 944's - but some of those came with the proper 3.5 bar unit, and some came with a 2.5 bar unit.

Another note on fpr's for anyone who's curious. They are rated with a given pressure, but they do not maintain that given pressure in the fuel rail. You'll notice that they have a vacuum line attached to them that runs to the intake manifold. Ever wonder what that was for? Well, inside the fpr is a flexible diaphragm that sees fuel pressure on one side, and manifold pressure on the other side. This side of the diaphragm is spring loaded too, the spring determines the pressure rating. So, on one side of the diphragm you have the spring pressure and the manifold air pressure, and on the other side you have the fuel pressure. As the diaphragm flexes, it sort of uncovers an opening on the "fuel" side running to the fuel return line. (This is hard to explain without a diagram, bear with me!) This flexing is what regulates the fuel pressure - the pump is basically constantly pressurizing the fuel rail, and the diapgragm inside the regulator is flexing under the pressure created by the pump and allowing fuel to return to the tank via the return line. Thus, the pressure reaches an equillibrium where the fuel is returning to the tank at a rate such that the pressure inside the rail is held at a certain value.

Since the "air" side of the regulator is pressurized by the spring and manifold pressure, your fuel rail is pressurized to manifold pressure + the fpr's pressure rating. So, if you're at full throttle and seeing 1 bar of boost (about 14.5 psi) then you're fuel rail will be at 4.5 bar if you have a 3.5 bar fuel pressure regulator.

ECU Chips - These are, perhaps, the most important component in the modification process. Re-mapped chips allow your engine's fueling and spark systems to adjust to the higher power your engine will make with other modifications. Choosing the correct chip for your application becomes very important once you've ventured into the more extreme reaches of g60 modifications, but for the "normal" stage kits listed above, there are several good chip choices.

One additional note about chips - a chip should not be thought of as a power-adding modification. Instead, it should be thought of as a way to adjust your engine for other modifications you've made, in order for your car to operate properly and make the most power it can with those modifications.

Cams - Swapping to a more aggressive cam is pretty straightforward. One thing to note though is that with some methods of forced induction (turbos especially it seems), the really aggressive cams can make less power, since they allow more blow-by due to higher overlap.

Another note about cams - when you swap cams, it is a very good idea to put new lifters in at the same time. Old, worn lifters will kill a new cam in no time. Also, be sure to follow the installation and break-in instructions that came with your cam.

Porting work - Usually done when the normal modifications have all been carried out, porting the head and intake manifold can help to unlock quite a bit of power on the g60 engine. The counter-flow 8 valve head on these engines isn't the best flow-wise, and a correct porting job can work wonders. It is important to get the job done by someone with the knowledge and experience to do it right, though. An incorrect porting job is a waste of money.

Larger injectors - Intermittent injectors, like those on the g60 engine, control fuel delivery by opening and closing at a rapid rate. The percentage they are open in a given time interval controls how much fuel is injected. So, in a given second at idle, they may be closed 90% of the time and open only 10%. And, at full throttle and 6k rpm's, they might be open 80% of the time. Basically, when you reach a certain point modification-wise, you'll be cramming so much air into the engine that the injectors can't keep up - even when they are open as much as they can be, they won't be injecting enough fuel. So, the remedy is to swap in higher flowing injectors. When doing this, it is very important to get a chip that is matched to your injector size, otherwise you'll have problems. See section above on fuel pressure regulators for more info on helping your fueling system keep up.

One may venture to ask this question: "When I've reached the point where people are telling me to get bigger injectors, why not just slap on a really high pressure FPR?" And you'd ask that question with good reason - an fpr can be had for $45, while a set of injectors will probably run $100 used, and several times that for a new balanced set. Well, you have to remember how fpr's work - they don't pressurize the rail themselves, they basically just regulate the pressure created by the pump. So, at a certain point, the pump is the limiting factor in the amount of pressure you can have, not the fpr itself. So basically, if you threw a 6 bar FPR on (if you could find one!) then you'd be waaaay over the limits of the pump, and your car wouldn't run as you might expect. It's at this point - when you've got a higher pressure fpr and need even more fuel - that the bigger injectors make sense.

-Nate

[Modified by SaabFan, 8:14 AM 12-13-2002]

[Modified by SaabFan, 4:21 PM 4-17-2003]

**SaabFan** · 11-06-2002 09:19 AM

Removing the g60 charger:

Search is down, so at least for now, you're gonna get one of my rambles instead of a list of thread links. I can't remember some of the tool sizes off the top of my head, so if anyone wants to provide that info, let me know.

Most of the reputable rebuilders will help walk you through the charger removal process if you get stuck, but I figured it was a common enough question on here to warrant this topic.

Tools you'll need:
-Metric socket set
-Metric hex wrench (aka Allen wrench) socket set
-Rachet or other handle for sockets
-Extensions for the sockets
-Vice grips come in real handy
-A propane torch will come in handy, too
-Other misc. hand tools - screwdrivers, etc.
-Penetrating oil
-Small plastic bags to hold the fasteners and parts you remove

This process may be a bit different than what other people do, but it's the best process I've used. I'll write out instructions as if you've got the stock silencer box and air filter box, so if you have an RSR or similar outlet and/or an aftermarket air filter, you'll have to keep that in mind. (If you don't know what I'm talking about, don't worry. It's no big deal.)

Before you start, (maybe even a day or two before you start) take a few minutes and familiarize yourself with everything in the general area that the charger's in under your hood. Also, if you've got some penetrating oil (WD-40, Break-Free CLP, etc) now's the time to spray a little bit on some of the fasteners that might be stubborn. None of the fasteners you'll be removing are really high-torque items, but some of them have soft heads and can freeze in place, making them easy to strip.

1) First, you have to remove some of the "stuff" around the charger. Undo the hose clamps on the big rubber tube that runs from the silencer box to the first IC tube. The silencer box is the black plastic box on the outlet side (driver's side) of the charger. Now, pull that hose out of the car. Next, disconnect the boost return hose from the driver's side inlet on the charger. This is the smaller hard plastic hose that connects opposite the airbox inlet on the passenger's side of the charger. It is held in place by two small bolts.

2) Now, remove the silencer box. You can remove it as a unit, or you can take the outer half off and then the inner half. There are 4 small bolts holding the halves together, and there's one bolt (14mm I think) holding the inner half to the charger. That bolt gives lots of people trouble since it is kind of buried down inside the silender box, but it's easy if you just take your time and use an extension on your socket.

3) Now to the other side of the charger. First, remove the ribbed plastic hose that runs from the airbox to the charger. Then, remove the stock airbox from the car. This should be pretty straightforward.

4) Next, you need to remove the serpentine belt from your car. This is the wide, flat belt with the ribs on it that runs most of your accesories. There are two ways of removing the belt - you can remove the tensioner and slide the belt off, or you can just cut the belt and pull it out. If the belt is old, just cut it and replace it when you put the charger back in. If you want to save the belt, you'll have to remove the tensioner from the car first. See next step.

5) As the name implies, the tensioner holds the belt under tension. It's that little thing with a spring on it next to the alternator that looks like a mini suspension strut. There's a bolt holding it to the alternator bracket at the top, and a bolt holding it to its pulley bracket at the bottom. Both of these botls run through rubber bushings, so now is a good time to examine the condition of those bushings. Either way, undo one of the bolts and slide the tensioner off to release the belt. Be careful when sliding it off, as it is under quite a bit of pressure.

6) Now it's time to work on the oil lines running to and from the charger. There's a supply and a return line, and they are both held to the charger with banjo bolts. The supply line is on the outlet side of the charger, and the return line is on the bottom of the charger. Remove their banjo bolts and let the lines come free of the charger. Note that when you do this, they're gonna leak some oil (not a lot, but enough to make a mess) so be ready with some rags. Some rebuilders will clean these lines out for you at no charge, so you might want to remove them completely and ship them with your charger. Talk to your rebuilder about this.

7) Now you can work on the actual charger. There are three brackets holding the charger to the engine. First, there's the main aluminium passenger's side bracket that the pulley passes through. Then, there's a smaller aluminium bracket on the driver's side. Finally, there's a single brace under the charger with one bolt on each end. I like to go after that brace first. It's basically a steel tube about 8" long, bolted to the bottom of the charger on one end, and the block on the other. I like to remove both bolts and pull it out of the car to give more manuvering room later on.

8) Now, remove the passenger's side bracket. This is held to the outlet side of the charger with several hex head (allen) bolts, and to the engine with some more allen bolts. Remove all these bolts and pull the bracket out of the car. The bolts holding the bracket to the engine block can strip sometimes, so be very careful when you're doing this. If I don't know the history of the bolts (i.e. wether or not they've been off recently) I like to take my time - hit em with some penetrating oil (ie WD-40), wipe em off, and maybe hit em with the torch a couple times, too. Then, they usually come out easily. There's also a sheet metal shim between this bracket and the charger, be sure you don't loose it when you're removing the bolts or the bracket.

9) Next, remove the bolts holding the charger to the passenger's side bracket. There are 4 bolts, and they are all 5mm hex (allen) bolts. Be very careful with these, as the heads can strip out easily. These are the last things holding the charger to the car, so when you've removed them, the charger should just come right out. Be careful of the radiator, as you can do some bad damage if you bash the charger into it when you're lifting it out.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Note - As mentioned way up top, this is only one of many methods for removing the charger. The most popular alternate method is to remove the pulley from the charger and leave the driver's side bracket in the car, then wiggle the charger out from between the two brackets. If you've stripped bolt heads on the bolts holding the driver's side bracket to the engine, then this might be your best bet. David from Kompressor Kanada recently told me that they prefer customers follow the above procedure and remove the charger with the pulley intact, to avoid possible damage caused when removing the pulley from the charger mainshaft.

If you want to use this alternate method, follow the steps below before/instead of the last several steps above. Unbolt the pulley from the charger as listed below, then proceed with unbolting the charger from its brackets as listed above.

First the fun part - removing the pulley from the charger. If you've got access to air tools, this will be a snap - just put an impact wrench on the bolt and psssshhht! off it comes. Otherwise, you'll need to exersize some creativity. Here's my method. Take the old serpentine belt (since you were gonna replace it, right?) and loop it around the pulley. Now, where the two ends of the belt come together, pinch them to eachother tightly (right down next to the pulley) with your vice-grips. The idea is to squeeze the belt so tight around the pulley that you can hold the vice-grips and keep the pulley from spinning while you undo the bolt. This is kind of hard to explain, but play with it a bit - you're basically making a home-made strap wrench out of the vice grips and old belt. Anyways, do that and then hold the vice grips to keep the pulley from turning so you can undo the bolt that holds the pulley on.

Now with the pulley bolt off, you can pull the pulley off. This might take some effort, I've come across some pulleys that were stuck on with some sort of loc-tite compound. The pulleys are pretty soft aluminium, and you don't want to wreck it by prying it off, so be careful. This is where the torch will come in handy - heating the pulley up can help release it from the shaft. Just be VERY careful with the torch, and don't set anything on fire or melt anything! And this may seem obvious, but when you heat something up with the torch, don't touch it till it cools down!

After removing the bolts holding the brackets to the charger as listed above, work that sheet metal shim out of the driver's side bracket, and the charger will be pretty loose. You've basically got to wiggle it around enough now to pull it up and out of the car. Be careful of the radiator at this point, as it is easy to smash the charger into it and knick it up pretty bad. Some people have told me they couldn't get the charger out in this manner, which is another reason why the above method is preferrable. I've never had a problem, though it will take some effort.

-Nate

[Modified by SaabFan, 10:06 AM 11-7-2002]

**G60ING** · 11-15-2002 08:56 AM

Removal of the bumper and removal of the stock G60 IC: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=570336

Jacking up the car and placement of jack stands: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=598926

[Modified by G60ING, 7:30 PM 11-24-2002]

**SaabFan** · 11-18-2002 01:13 PM

List of tuners and parts sources:

The list below was compiled from several sources - mostly from threads on these forums discussing where people obtain parts. Note that inclusion in this list does NOT imply endorsement of a particular tuner. Entries in each category will be listed alphabetically by web address. Note that there is a fair amount of crossover between categoties, i.e. some of the companies listed under "Body Kits, Exterior and Interior Modifications" also sell aftermarket or OEM parts, but are listed there because that's what they're better known for.

If you have an addition to make to this list, please let me know! We're trying to provide an exhaustive list of any online tuners or parts sources for Corrado parts.

OEM/Aftermarket Parts
http://www.autotech.com
http://www.awe-tuning.com
http://www.dieselgeek.com
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/vwpage.ivnu (Beefed-up driveshafts)
http://www.eurospecsport.com
http://www.eurosportacc.com
http://www.germanautoparts.com
http://www.grparts.com
http://www.hallmotorsports.com
http://www.kraftswerk.com
http://www.parts4vws.com
http://www.rapidparts.com
http://www.srsvw.com
http://www.tcsn.net/vwpics/parts (VW specialty tools)
http://www.thescirocco.com
http://www.tttuning.com
http://www.turn2usa.com
http://www.vwaftermarket.com
http://www.vwparts.com