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    VWVortex


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    Thread: San Francisco ,,,,,, California ..... Bay Area

    1. 03-19-2012 05:00 PM #1
      In need of a savvy Diesel Tech in the general Bay area, Just finished my first 1.6 TD build and I'm having timing issues , I think , I followed " how to by Waldon "

      1. I am using a gas flywheel ,,, I'm using the 0 mark ,,correct? not the timing triangle mark

      Fresh bore/pistons.... 1.6td block...AAZ head...1.6 pump and turbo ,,,, pump...gov and 1.9 cam

      Set timing ,, dial gauge ,, once set by the book ,,, hard start , motor shakes bad,, smokes real bad , pushed pump toward motor , didn't help much ,,,, then jumped one tooth advanced , easy start now , little to no smoke ,,,, sounds if it is running good now ,,,,,but,,,, Boost gauge reads 2-3 lbs and high rpm ,,,,before at factory timing settings running rough read 5-7 lbs

      The pump was from a running car and performed good , though I did modify it,

      will too low compression cause any of this ,,, AAZ head on 1.6 lowers by 1 point and I used a 3 notch Gasket.

      ran though a bunch of injectors , two pumps

      Open to suggestions

      If there's some in the area that could take the time to do a visual , I would greatly appreciate it.
      Last edited by 84GLIRacer; 03-19-2012 at 06:32 PM.

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      03-19-2012 06:36 PM #2
      you have found out why lots of people avoid using the 1.9 head on the 1.6 block..

      thats just the nature of the beast..

      smokes alot and runs rough when cold..

      as for your boost situation, no idea.. maybe you got a exhaust leak somewhere.

    3. 03-19-2012 06:46 PM #3
      exhaust leak??? Hmm ,,,, just running off the factory DP and about 2 feet of straight pipe

      I try to do adjustments when warm ,,, but on cold start it's rough and very smokey

      Going to check compression a bit later ,,, shooting for 495 and no less than 412 right???

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      03-19-2012 10:13 PM #4
      exhaust leak before the turbo*

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      03-20-2012 01:55 AM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by Glegor View Post
      exhaust leak before the turbo*

      During your build did you redo all the gaskets, and exhaust studs/washers/bolts?

      I had this loss of boost in a couple stages on my car. Ran fine over a year into owning the car then all of a sudden the car wouldn't boost much without touching me things. Also a smell of diesel in the cab.

      Then weeks later the car lost power and sounded like an old vw bug. Freaked me out, I ended up poking around and found an exhaust stud gone and a couple I could reach I was able to back out from the block by hand? Ended up breaking all that down and cleaning things up and using new studs, those silver washers and copper nuts and all has been well since.

      just thinking outloud, don't have much experience with these engines myself.

    6. 03-20-2012 03:11 AM #6
      Just did a compression check for the heck of it ,,,, So on a Fresh build I know compression will be a bit lower before broken in properly , but how much and how much will it go up upon break in . 380 lbs. across the board give or take a few lbs.

    7. 03-20-2012 09:23 AM #7
      If you put a 3 notch gasket on without measuring for piston protrusion that could be your starting problem. You just don't do that.

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      03-20-2012 12:55 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by theman53 View Post
      If you put a 3 notch gasket on without measuring for piston protrusion that could be your starting problem. You just don't do that.
      X a whole bunch!!!

      you cant just GUESS..

    9. Member Baron VonZeppelin's Avatar
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      03-20-2012 02:19 PM #9
      On a fresh 1.6 with aaz head and MLS gasket - probably need a 0.5 notch gasket. lol
      Or maybe a 1 notch.
      Unlike gasoliners , there is no need or benefit to reduce Comp Ratio on a street driven diesel passenger car.
      Its really counter-productive.

      If you measure your protrusion and give them your numbers and inform of your hardware,
      one of the guys in Ohio should be able to advise you on gasket needed - and supply it.

      When you advanced the Pump 1 cog - was it actually 1 cog off , and now in spec
      - or is it actually now advanced 1 cog above spec ?

      Is your Inj Pump pulley the old style with 2 holes that can be used for alignment pin,
      or does it only have one hole that will accomadate the alignment pin ?

      Maybe the Inj Pump is 180* out - if you have a 2 holer.

      Comp Test sounds promising on consistent. If it was cold/cool - it is likely higher when hot.
      And like you noted it isnt even partially broken in yet.

      The 0 on flywheel is TDC.
      The triangle is either 6* or 8* BTDC

      Head Gasket / Head combo is probably most of your battle.
      But i'd make sure all else is well and set up right while you're at this point.

    10. 03-20-2012 08:45 PM #10
      going to try the 180 on the pump , it's two hole style


      should I break it in proper to try to raise compression or just take the head off

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      03-20-2012 09:00 PM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by 84GLIRacer View Post
      going to try the 180 on the pump , it's two hole style


      should I break it in proper to try to raise compression or just take the head off
      i would take it back apart, and see what gasket actually needs to be in there..

    12. 03-20-2012 09:13 PM #12
      that's what I'm leaning towards ,,, Keep you guys posted ,,,Thanks

    13. Member Baron VonZeppelin's Avatar
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      03-20-2012 09:26 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by 84GLIRacer View Post
      going to try the 180 on the pump , it's two hole style


      should I break it in proper to try to raise compression or just take the head off
      On the Pump being 180* out - there should be an alignment mark on the outer ridge of the sprocket.
      That mark should line up with an indentation on timing cover backing plate - roughly 12 o'clockish.

      If no mark on pulley ridge - you can remove nut from inj pump sprocket.
      The keyway should be pointing at about 10 o'clock (am or pm - doesn't matter)
      4 o'clock would be 180* out.

      Then you get into a deal where the pump could be 180* out internally.
      If the pump has been disassembled since you last had it running on a car - you might also want to check that out.

      If i could get it to crank good and run good - i'd drive it long enough to break it in pretty good.
      But before winter you'd need to open it back up. If you have a winter.
      Can pretty much guarantee you a 3 notch is the wrong gasket (too thick).

    14. 04-24-2012 08:19 PM #14
      Back from the Dead ,,,,, Update

      So I broke in the motor 600 miles and did a compression test again from 380 it went up 10 pounds on average across the board

      Bought new head gasket( 3 to 1 now) and bolts will do that soon and update again

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