What goes to the gold fitting right above the pink vacuum hose?
Is this the proper vacuum line? It's the only vacuum line I could find by the distributor. When I plugged it in the car seemed to try and run better.
I'm having issues getting it to stay running with this new carb. It keeps backfiring and spitting fuel and flames up out of the carb. I'm thinking I'll have to fiddle with the distributor to get it to stop, any thoughts?
It'll fire and then you can keep it alive with throttle but it won't idle on it's own. It sometimes revs on it's own as well.
Could you PLEASE post some pics of your carb/engine bay. I'd like to compare how you have yours wired to mine.
Ill try to get some pics later this week, the car isnt easy for me to access unfortunately. I was reading through some threads on here and have found this stock carb does not have the proper jets in it for a MK1. I dont know what Jets are in it from the factory or what jets are needed for a MK1 but the stocks jets do not work well here.
I can get mine to idle really well but with ANY throttle at all it just dies. I cant confirm that it is running really rich, however, it just smells rich and wont rev.
What part are you having a hard time getting wired?
well, the only vacuum things are to the carb brake booster and from the valve cover to the carb. Some heads (the JH specifically) have a little try hose coming from just above the Number 3 cylinder that needs to be plugged up. I don't know what it does on the CIS engine but it does nothing on the carb. I have seen just a rubber cover over it (like a rubber nipple) to close it off from atmosphere.
Otherwise you have the vacuum advance from the carb to the distributor, but thats only important if you're using the vacuum advance model. If you have the CIS-e or later CIS model distributor then there should be wiring and no vacuum line.
looking at your pics above it does seem like you have the vacuum line correct to the distro. Check around the backside of the head around cyl 3-4, if you see a small hole that doesn't belong anywhere try plugging it up. That should help with your backfiring issues.
p.s. anyone care to share their jet sizes with me? My DGEV came off a Toyota truck, doubt the jets are right for the VW.
Also found this jetting recommendation online for a 1.7/1.8
pri main: 135
sec main: 140
pri idle: 50
sec idle: 45
pri corr: 180
sec corr: 170
"If you tune to "lean-best", go by the number of revolutions the idle jet is out from being fully seated. If that number falls within the lean-best range (can't remember what that is off-hand), You are ok. If it is over the range, then jet down, under, jet up."
a good write-up
as mentioned, these carbs DO NOT COME JETTED FOR THE APPLICATION, unless you order them that way..
you need to jet them to get them to run correctly.
most of the time, if you can get them running, they make the exhaust manifold glow red..
they come jetted pretty lean from the factory.
32/36 carbs are the easiest carb to tune on the planet.. if you cant tune it in 5 mins, it has a vacuum leak, or needs jetted.
Havent checked in on this thread in a while. Thank you for posting up those pictures!
I've since got my car to run, it's plenty drivable and what not. I do however seem to have an issue when going WOT, the car just wants to stall. You can ease into WOT but if you go from idle to full throttle it'll stall. Any thoughts on why it would be doing that?
I gotta ask...
Do any of you guys have the power chokes hooked up? The ones I see here are not. There is a wire run from the positive side on the coil to my choke, and when I plug it in, the car will not start. Unplugged, it fires right up, but needs to warm up before it idles.
I'm also trying to figure out where any vacuum holes are on the Weber and where they hook up to?
Over the years I have installed quite a few of the Weber DGAV and DGEV 32/36 carbs on different vehicles. It is a wonderful and easily adjusted carb that covers quite a few different applications. For the water cooled VW's, I always use the early Rabbit mechanical fuel pump. It mounts right to the block and there is a lobe on the intermediate shaft to work the lever on the pump. The Weber carbs likes the volume and pressure of the VW pump and you don't have to mess with the complexity of an electrical pump and a regulator. On the electric choke model, it should be hooked up to the coil terminal that is fed from the ignition switch.
Regarding jetting/setup on a Weber 32/36: I have installed a 32/36 on my 1985 Quantum w/ 1.8L/manual trans. After some changes in the main jets, air jets, etc. the car runs exceptionally well. I would like opinions on the setup.
Jet size: Primary :140
Air jet primary: 180
Air jet secondary: 210
Emulsion tube primary:F50 (4 sets of four holes in the upper section)
Emulsion tube secondary: F50 (was F6)
Idle jet: 50 (has electric idle solenoid on the opposite side)
F/A mix screw: out 2-1/4 turns
Idle speed screw: in 1 to 1-1/4 turns
Pump jet: single
All adjustments were done by using the "best lean" set up. and all worked out well.
The car idles well, performs well (as well as a 1.8 can), and gets about 25 mpg on road trips (Interstate driving @ 70 mph). Before the secondary emulsion tube change (from F6 to F50), and the primary and secondary air jet changes from (160 primary to 180, and 170 secondary to 210), the car had poor performance (flat spots at all speeds, poor acceleration) but better mpg (34 hwy). It always felt as if the car was having to work too hard (always pedal to the metal) to maintain speed as well as to accelerate. I feel that the car should get about 30 mpg on road trips. What changes to the above set up should be made, to achieve that mpg? No problems other than the mpg that it is currently getting. Thanks for your input. David.