G Stock Questions- MKVI- RSB?

[roninsoldier83]

So, I have an MKVI (2012) that I'm planning on piloting in G Stock this year. I've already picked up a set of lighter stock sized (18"x7.5") wheels (VW Motorsport) and decent street/summer tires (225/40/18 Hankook Ventus R-S3). I'm not planning on running R-comps this year, partially due to my local chapter not being very G Stock competitive, and partially because I would like to get used to pitching the car around before I go throwing on a set of R comps.... it's been a couple years since I've been into the SCCA scene; I'm a bit rusty haha.

I digress. Since I last autoX'd, it looks like the rules have changed in the Stock classes. If I read the new rules correctly, it appears as though you can now use either a FSB -OR- a RSB (as opposed to only a FSB allowed previously. Simple logic would say that for an understeering, front-heavy car, a RSB would be most beneficial for autoX, but then again, I've been wrong before.

Has anyone ran either a front or rear aftermarket sway bar in G Stock? If so, I would be interested in hearing your results.

On a related note, what is everyone in G Stock running for shocks on these cars? Koni yellows? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

-Brandon

[SpecialFX]

I ran in a regional street tire class the past two years with my MKV GTI, but it would have been in DSP otherwise. I know it's not G stock, but with stage 2 hardware/software plus the H&R cup kit, my car was noticeably faster, a lot more fun to drive, and a little easier to drive after I got the BHS RSB and their shortened end links. I'm sure it would have a great effect on your car as well without the other mods.

[roninsoldier83]

Thanks for the info! Did you ever run a FSB? If so, did it make much of a difference compared to the RSB?

[87GOLFITB]

If you want the car to rotate, RSB and stiffen the rear as much as you can (Koni Sports on full stiff). Your instincts are correct. Not familiar with the new rules but if you can unhook the factory FSB even better (I wouldn't remove it completely though for DD use). Also I think the swaybar rules for Stock classes are new for 2012 so there may not be much feedback yet.

[MasterNele03]

Has anyone ran either a front or rear aftermarket sway bar in G Stock? If so, I would be interested in hearing your results.

On a related note, what is everyone in G Stock running for shocks on these cars? Koni yellows? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

-Brandon

I have a MK6 GTI with an H&R RSB (running in GS) and it's spectacular especially now that I have a proper set of rubber on it now. As stated by others your thinking is correct with getting a RSB. I wouldn't bother getting a FSB anytime soon as that would only benefit slightly in a road and the car is heavily modified suspension wise. Now I know that even though you've done some autocrossing before, which is great, I would still suggest either doing one event wth no mods or if you just have to put the RSB it then fine, but leave the car alone after that. I assume that since it's been a few years that you've gone, then you haven't taken the GTI out on a autox session, correct? If that's the case you'll be very surprised on how well the stock suspension is dialed in. In all actually you will probably be faster on the OEM suspension than the Koni yellows. VW has put a wonderful suspension on the GTI (TDI as well). Yes it "feels" like it has more roll than an aftermarket suspension, but that doesn't mean that you are going slower. To put it in perspective the GTI was was one of the 10 best handling cars. It was last , but it was the only FWD car and the other cars were the Nissan GTR, ZO6, Viper ACR, Porsche boxter, BMW M3 and others. You can look it up on Motortrend and Car and Driver. I think that says a lot about the balance of the car. Anyway if you going to do the RSB then do so, but learn to drive the car with what you have. Tires are also the your best bet to going around as fast as possible. If your tires are no good then there's no point in putting money into mods hoping to pick up the tires' slack. Once you get to the point where you drive faster than car then you can put in another mod. The worst thing for you to do is to put a lot of money and effort into mods thinking the car needs to tweaked when it is in fact the driver than needs the tweaking. Not to sound rude or mean, that's not my intent, this is the best way to learn the car and be a fast driver. As far as the FSB I would leave the stock one in and connected until you have surpassed the car's limits with a larger RSB. Hope this helps feel free to ask me any others questions if you want.

[roninsoldier83]

I have a MK6 GTI with an H&R RSB (running in GS) and it's spectacular especially now that I have a proper set of rubber on it now. As stated by others your thinking is correct with getting a RSB. I wouldn't bother getting a FSB anytime soon as that would only benefit slightly in a road and the car is heavily modified suspension wise. Now I know that even though you've done some autocrossing before, which is great, I would still suggest either doing one event wth no mods or if you just have to put the RSB it then fine, but leave the car alone after that. I assume that since it's been a few years that you've gone, then you haven't taken the GTI out on a autox session, correct? If that's the case you'll be very surprised on how well the stock suspension is dialed in. In all actually you will probably be faster on the OEM suspension than the Koni yellows. VW has put a wonderful suspension on the GTI (TDI as well). Yes it "feels" like it has more roll than an aftermarket suspension, but that doesn't mean that you are going slower. To put it in perspective the GTI was was one of the 10 best handling cars. It was last , but it was the only FWD car and the other cars were the Nissan GTR, ZO6, Viper ACR, Porsche boxter, BMW M3 and others. You can look it up on Motortrend and Car and Driver. I think that says a lot about the balance of the car. Anyway if you going to do the RSB then do so, but learn to drive the car with what you have. Tires are also the your best bet to going around as fast as possible. If your tires are no good then there's no point in putting money into mods hoping to pick up the tires' slack. Once you get to the point where you drive faster than car then you can put in another mod. The worst thing for you to do is to put a lot of money and effort into mods thinking the car needs to tweaked when it is in fact the driver than needs the tweaking. Not to sound rude or mean, that's not my intent, this is the best way to learn the car and be a fast driver. As far as the FSB I would leave the stock one in and connected until you have surpassed the car's limits with a larger RSB. Hope this helps feel free to ask me any others questions if you want.

Yeah, it's been a while since I've been into the autoX scene... although I did get one event in last summer in my old Miata, but it's been a couple years since I put a lot of time/effort into it. I've driven the little VW in anger, but never at an autoX course. I completely agree with doing the "driver mod" before just throwing money at the car, you make a good point. I've actually never piloted a FWD car around an autoX, so this should be a good experience for me.

I suppose I just figured if I was going to do it anyway, might as well do some research on it. I might hold off on buying anything else though until I get the little car out on the track/autoX and see what feels like it's lacking (aside from my own lack of skill haha). Although I couldn't resist picking up the lighter wheels & summer rubber, as I'm not a fan of all-season tires, even for daily driving.... that and the "I'll use the stock wheels for winter tires & get an extra set for the summer" excuse allowed me to justify the purchase to myself haha.

I found that article you were talking about:

http://www.caranddriver.com/comparis...n-100k-feature

I would say the MKVI is probably the best handling FWD car I've ever driven (or at least neck & neck with the Mazdaspeed 3- I've driven a few of them), so I'm not terribly shocked. I suppose I'll take it out with some decent rubber and see how she does. Thanks for the feedback!

-Brandon

[AutoX Matt]

It's a lot older than your MkVI, but on my Scirocco 16V, which I autocross in STC, I added a Shine Racing RSB & removed the front bar. I got shine's springs & rsb. I took their recommendation and left the fsb on for a while to get used to it, then took the front bar off and drove for a while. I'm never going to put the FSB back on. It's more darty & requires more attention while driving straight, especially at high speeds, and the steering feel while cornering is a bit worse, but it turns in and holds corners much, much faster and better.

[MasterNele03]

I would say the MKVI is probably the best handling FWD car I've ever driven (or at least neck & neck with the Mazdaspeed 3- I've driven a few of them), so I'm not terribly shocked. I suppose I'll take it out with some decent rubber and see how she does. Thanks for the feedback!

-Brandon

I think you'll be pleasantly surprised for iit being FWD. the lighter wheels isn't a biggy just ensure that you have some decent rubber on them. However don't go and buy r-comps either b/c again you don't want the rubber compensating for your mistakes. It's kinda like if you can drive a slow car fast then you can drive anything fast. Enjoy and hopefully we can hear about your experience and thoughts.

It's a lot older than your MkVI, but on my Scirocco 16V, which I autocross in STC, I added a Shine Racing RSB & removed the front bar. I got shine's springs & rsb. I took their recommendation and left the fsb on for a while to get used to it, then took the front bar off and drove for a while. I'm never going to put the FSB back on. It's more darty & requires more attention while driving straight, especially at high speeds, and the steering feel while cornering is a bit worse, but it turns in and holds corners much, much faster and better.

Once you get to the point where you can do this ^^. What you could do is leave it in when you DD and when you arrive at the track just remove it from the endlinks, run the course, then reconnect it when you leave for home.