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    Thread: Overheating after seafoam (please help/state opinions)

    1. Member Fundaze's Avatar
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      03-25-2012 12:39 AM #1
      Hey guys so I have an issue and it came immediately after seafoaming.

      Here is how it all went,

      I did the seafoam through the brake booster, everything went fine, but we also used the seafoam deep clreep through the intake manifold. I had an issue where the little red thing that connects to the bottle for spraying the cleaner blew into the manifold, I was trying to get it out with pliers and had my friend hold the pedal down to keep the throttle body valve open (held open for about 5-10mins) and I ended up having to take the throttle body off to get that red thing out. Good news is I got it out, bad news is the seafoam sat in my car for probably 35-40 mins and that throttle body actuator sat open for awhile.

      Next I started the car and boom all the smoke came out like normal and everything ran fine (reved it pretty hard to burn up the seafoam), then I put some seafoam into my gas tank and then we took the car for a burn. Drove it pretty hard as instructed and then after about 10 minutes of driving hard the car temperature sensing light came on and the gauge was almost to the red.

      I let the car sit and it cooled down, I then coasted back to my friends house. The car sat at his house for about 20 mins and then I drove the car home (approx 15 min drive highway). The car overheated but I pulled over before the light came. Eventually got home.

      So my issue is the car is overheating now. It takes awhile before it overheats but ultimately it is overheating. I do not think it is a head gasket as there is no white smoke and the car runs GREAT other than the overheating.

      My question is what caused this, here is what I think and haven't had much time to check it over as it is dark and I will work on it tomorrow.

      1) Seafoam makes my oil thin, my oil is too thin because the seafoam sat too long and the car is overheating (doign an oil change tomorrow),

      2) I still have a vacuum leak from where I had to take the throttle body off or brake booster and am getting too much oxygen therefore overheating, or

      3) by driving and reving too hard the water pump failed (coincidence).......I have 100 000kms on my car (68 000 miles)

      Please state your opinions on what could be wrong and what I can do to diagnose it.
      Last edited by Fundaze; 04-04-2012 at 02:43 PM.
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      Jetta TDI 03, Corrado 24v 90.
      03-25-2012 11:20 AM #2
      1. Do a compression test
      2. change the water pump

    3. Member koko5869's Avatar
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      03-25-2012 01:30 PM #3
      Scan it first and see what it says.

      Way easier than the tests mentioned before. And could point you in the right direction.

    4. Member Fundaze's Avatar
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      03-25-2012 08:47 PM #4
      Hey guys,

      This morning the cars coolant level was down below the min line. I filled it up (approx 1L went in). I then took the car for a test drive (approx 10-15 mins on the highway) and it maintained 90. I thought that the problem was gone.......I drove it to school and it stayed at 90 for about 15 mins then started to rise. The temperature never went past 110 and fluctuated between 100-110. This leads me to think the cooling system is working just not properly. What would cause this, and how can I tell if the waterpump needs replacement?

      Hope someone can help, also would holding the throttle body open for a long time affect anything. Is there anyway to affect the cooling system by taking off the throttle body (with all the plugs/hoses connected to it).

      Thanks in advance~!
      Last edited by Fundaze; 03-25-2012 at 09:31 PM.
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    5. Member Fundaze's Avatar
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      03-25-2012 11:26 PM #5
      Hey guys, so I have decided that it is probably the water pump. I am looking at teh DIY on here and it is pretty good. I plan on gathering all of the parts for it and then doing it the coming up weekend. I was hoping you all can give me some insight on things to watch for and just some tips if you have any.

      What do you guys suggest replacing while I am doing this, I plan on replacing the serpentine belt and the water pump, anything else? My Temp sensor was done 2 years ago....should I try that first?

      What should I be aware of when jacking my engine up, I don't wanna mess anything else up.

      Still open for suggestions of other possible things causing these high operating temps
      Last edited by Fundaze; 03-25-2012 at 11:55 PM.
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    6. Member Wolfschnee's Avatar
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      03-26-2012 09:27 AM #6
      have you ever done the thermostat? i would do that and the sensor(sensor is like $10 bucks for a green top). If the temperature is going up only to 110 and getting stuck this can be the thermostat. Theres actually a way to test if its the thermostat sticking. Just search and you'll find it. Its to do with driving up and down hills to see if the temperature fluctuates.

    7. Member Fundaze's Avatar
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      03-26-2012 11:15 AM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by Wolfschnee View Post
      have you ever done the thermostat? i would do that and the sensor(sensor is like $10 bucks for a green top). If the temperature is going up only to 110 and getting stuck this can be the thermostat. Theres actually a way to test if its the thermostat sticking. Just search and you'll find it. Its to do with driving up and down hills to see if the temperature fluctuates.

      I am sort of getting confused, when I bought the car I had the dealer do an inspection before I bought it. Inspection showed the temperature sensor was not working so I worked into the deal of purchasing the car that the PO would get that fixed. I have the receipt from when he got it fixed and it shows that they fixed the temp sensor and in the parts list it says temp sender.

      Correct me if I am wrong, the temp sensor (the little green thing) sends the reading to the dash, the thermostat (the big round metal thing inside the housing) is the device that opens and closes letting in the coolant. Which should I be addressing, is it possible the temp sensor has failed after two years?
      Thanks

      EDIT** I am going to get a cooling system diagnostic done for $30 by a european car mechanic. Then from there I will do what is needed and regardless I wanna do the waterpump.
      Last edited by Fundaze; 03-26-2012 at 12:15 PM.
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    8. Member koko5869's Avatar
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      03-26-2012 06:26 PM #8
      The coolant temp sensors are garbage. The green ones are better than the.black ones, but the green ones still fail.
      Cheap and easy to replace.
      If its not the problem, its the cheapest way to start diagnosing.

    9. Member Wolfschnee's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 09:56 AM #9
      If the car never had the thermostat replaced and your over 60k on the car replace the thermostat, crack pipe, thermostat housing and orings. These will all go eventually and are easy to do at once. These might or might not be the problem but will be eventually. Just start doing your 100k services if yo haven't. Maintenance maintenance maintenance.

    10. Member Fundaze's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 12:37 PM #10
      Hey guys,

      So I'm looking for some input, I took the car to the only VW mechanic other than the Dealership and had them do a cooling system diagnostic for $37

      I left feeling like they didn't do much,
      1) They pluged it in and say the temp sensor was reading fine in comparison to the gauge, that was reading accurately.
      2) they pulled the hose on the coolan ball and reved the motor and watched the cooling fly out into the coolant ball, from this they determined my water pump was fine
      3) they pressurized the rad cap and said it seemed fine
      4) checked condensation coming from exhaust (cold day) and said it was normal and had no signs of coolant

      After all of this they said it the next step is replace the thermostat. Does this seem like a regular diagnosis, or was there more they could have checked? I felt like I could have done all of that myself........

      Again here are my symptoms, the car will run normal temps for 10-15 mins, after this it will begin to heat up slowly if the car is driven hard/up a hill (on my way home). The temp went to about 100 and reached as high as 110 today but as soon as I come to a stop it goes back down.

      In addition to their diagnostic I checked my fans and they seem to be running high and low speed.

      On another note, I am thinking I will just do the thermostat and crack pipe as suggested. This will be one of the largest jobs I have ever taken on, however I feel as though I am mechanically inclined. I mostly just started working on vehicles ever since I bought this car and have been capable of doing all the regular maintenance and the coilover install, exhaust install (i know these are easy).

      Anyone have any tips for doing the t-stat and crackpipe? Also what do I need to get the job done? In addition do oyu guys change the water pumps too as preventative maintenance?
      Last edited by Fundaze; 03-27-2012 at 12:41 PM.
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    11. Member Fundaze's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 12:57 PM #11
      sorry for so much writing, I really appreciate anyone who is reading it all to help me.

      Another thing I am thinking, is that it seems way too coincidental to occuring immediately after doing the seafoam and messing with the throttle body for this to all just happen during my seafoam test drive. I know seafoam doesnt affect the cooling system but is there anytihng I could have messed with after removing/replacing the throttle body with all the coolant hoses attached. There is a flow regulator or somethnig in one of those tubes and I'm thinking it could be something in there restricting the flow. Would this cause my issues?

      I am just trying to relate what I did to what could have gotten messed up
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    12. Member Wolfschnee's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 07:58 PM #12
      How many miles on the car? And yes if going up hill makes the temp go up and then going down hill it goes down the thermostat is sticking.

      Heres how to do the thermostat and crack pipe. The lock carrier can stay on, however the crack pipe would be easier if you take the lock carrier off. If you have time to leave it on blocks, lets say a week, take the carrier off and check all your coolant houses for bubbles, this way if one is bad do it at the same time and order the parts.

    13. Member Fundaze's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 08:11 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by Wolfschnee View Post
      How many miles on the car? And yes if going up hill makes the temp go up and then going down hill it goes down the thermostat is sticking.

      Heres how to do the thermostat and crack pipe. The lock carrier can stay on, however the crack pipe would be easier if you take the lock carrier off. If you have time to leave it on blocks, lets say a week, take the carrier off and check all your coolant houses for bubbles, this way if one is bad do it at the same time and order the parts.
      I have 100,000kms --------> 62,000 miles, I am thinking I will do the crack pipe, thermostat, thermostat housing and maybe the water pump too. If I do take the carrier off will the water pump be easier to get at, or will I still need to jack the motor?

      Thanks for all of the help!
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    14. 03-27-2012 08:35 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by Fundaze View Post
      I have 100,000kms --------> 62,000 miles, I am thinking I will do the crack pipe, thermostat, thermostat housing and maybe the water pump too. If I do take the carrier off will the water pump be easier to get at, or will I still need to jack the motor?

      Thanks for all of the help!
      You don't need to touch the carrier to do the water pump, just carefully jack the motor. I just replaced my thermostat (stuck open) and crack pipe after 281000km. The crack pipe was fine, no leaks, but since I was in there, I figured I might as well replaced it. I reused my original thermostat housing since it was still in top shape. I followed the R32 DIY and everything went without a snag.

    15. Member Fundaze's Avatar
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      03-28-2012 11:15 AM #15
      Hey guys,

      http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...ing/ES1892124/

      On this package deal it shows a thermostat cover and thermostat housing.....do I need both of those things if I am getting the parts seperately?

      Also if you think there is anything else I need to ensure I get please let me know.

      Thanks
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    16. 03-28-2012 08:33 PM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by Fundaze View Post
      Hey guys,

      http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...ing/ES1892124/

      On this package deal it shows a thermostat cover and thermostat housing.....do I need both of those things if I am getting the parts seperately?

      Also if you think there is anything else I need to ensure I get please let me know.

      Thanks
      I'm not expert but I would say that if there's no signs of the T-stat housing or cover leaking, I would not replace them and just make sure you replace all the gaskets (T-stat housing and crack pipe). If I judge by how long mine lasted, I would hazard to say that yours will last another 100000km if not more! I would definitely replace the crack pipe since you are in there. I found it to be a PITA to replace.

    17. Member Fundaze's Avatar
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      03-29-2012 12:45 AM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by mitsui-g View Post
      I'm not expert but I would say that if there's no signs of the T-stat housing or cover leaking, I would not replace them and just make sure you replace all the gaskets (T-stat housing and crack pipe). If I judge by how long mine lasted, I would hazard to say that yours will last another 100000km if not more! I would definitely replace the crack pipe since you are in there. I found it to be a PITA to replace.
      Thanks for the tip, the housing is kind of pricey, especially as a seperate piece from ECS package deal.

      Quote Originally Posted by Wolfschnee View Post
      How many miles on the car? And yes if going up hill makes the temp go up and then going down hill it goes down the thermostat is sticking.

      Heres how to do the thermostat and crack pipe. The lock carrier can stay on, however the crack pipe would be easier if you take the lock carrier off. If you have time to leave it on blocks, lets say a week, take the carrier off and check all your coolant houses for bubbles, this way if one is bad do it at the same time and order the parts.
      Can you please elaborate on the doing the Tstat without removing the carrier. I looked and it does look possible, would you just need to remove the battery and have at er? or was there a specific method to doing this/tips?

      I live in Canada and sourcing a crack pipe isnt quite that easy, the car is my DD and I really need to get it back on the road. If I can fix the Tstat quick without removing the carrier and just get the car running, then I can always do the crack pipe and water pump later down the road.
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    18. 03-29-2012 03:55 PM #18
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ANCE-PARTS-PTM
      Contact Perjad at www.precisiontuning.ca, he is a Vortex Advertiser and located in Toronto. I got my crack pipe from him and he will most likely help you source out other parts you might need.

    19. Member Fundaze's Avatar
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      03-30-2012 12:37 AM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by mitsui-g View Post
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ANCE-PARTS-PTM
      Contact Perjad at www.precisiontuning.ca, he is a Vortex Advertiser and located in Toronto. I got my crack pipe from him and he will most likely help you source out other parts you might need.

      Thanks for the link, I will contact him tomorrow.......Does anyone have insight on whether I should be able to do the Tstat without the carrier removal? Looks possible and looks like a rather quick job if this is the case. Please let me know, regardless I'll probably try this weekend so if no one answer I'll post in here to let anyone else wondering the same thing know if it was possible.
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    20. Member Wolfschnee's Avatar
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      03-30-2012 06:09 PM #20
      for just the tstat you have to remove the battery(and the plastic tray) and the airfilter box. Then unclip and wires in the way of the three bolts that hold the tstat housing against the engine. Before you unscrew it remove the hose at the bottom drivers side of the radiator. Let the fluids drain(make sure you open the cap to the resovior first. Then when you unclip the thermostat you wont get as much all over the engine bay. Pick up two things of the proper coolant for the car(i forget what it is right now). Do it during the morning if you can in case you strip a bolt and have to go get one at a hardware store. I needed one for the thermostat housing. There are three screws that hold the cover over the thermostat and the one next to the engine rusted really bad. And one bolt going into the engine got stripped at the head, it was still usable but i replaced for ease in the future.

    21. Member Fundaze's Avatar
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      03-30-2012 06:46 PM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by Wolfschnee View Post
      for just the tstat you have to remove the battery(and the plastic tray) and the airfilter box. Then unclip and wires in the way of the three bolts that hold the tstat housing against the engine. Before you unscrew it remove the hose at the bottom drivers side of the radiator. Let the fluids drain(make sure you open the cap to the resovior first. Then when you unclip the thermostat you wont get as much all over the engine bay. Pick up two things of the proper coolant for the car(i forget what it is right now). Do it during the morning if you can in case you strip a bolt and have to go get one at a hardware store. I needed one for the thermostat housing. There are three screws that hold the cover over the thermostat and the one next to the engine rusted really bad. And one bolt going into the engine got stripped at the head, it was still usable but i replaced for ease in the future.
      Thanks a bunch!! That really helped, after checking it out this is what I was going to do tomorrow morning, but your post just helped ensure everyhting goes smoothly.
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    22. Member Wolfschnee's Avatar
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      04-01-2012 08:57 AM #22
      let us know how it goes

    23. Member Fundaze's Avatar
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      04-01-2012 11:49 AM #23
      I posted in the fuel system problem thread Hecktur posted, but basically yes it was the Tstat, and I got it out and changed it over, no problems. Put the new coolant in and it ran fine, took it for like 30 min drive and no problems........Now I am having a totally new problem.

      Getting pretty frustrated, starting to be one thing after another, but I guess I will post on here see what you guys think, I am pretty sure its my fuel pump, or hopefully just the relay.

      Basically about 3 times before this my car has stalled when I am at 1/4 or less of a tank of gas, all those times I was able to start her back up and drive it to the gas station. If I kept the gas above 1/4 then it worked fine.

      Well, yesterday after I was test driving to see if the cooling issue was fixed (which it is) same thing happened, at 1/4 tank the car died completely, but this time she wouldn't start back up. The car turns over but just won't run, lots of cranking power but won't run or even get started. I am pretty sure its my fuel pump, or hopefully just the relay, but the relay doesn't relate to it happening at 1/4 of a tank so I dunno........and its Sunday so I can't get any parts.
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    24. Member Fundaze's Avatar
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      04-04-2012 02:43 PM #24
      I'll bump this thread, maybe someone can help.

      I replaced the fuel pump and the relay and the car ran for a bit and then died again. I now do not hear the new pump priming. I checked voltages, with the new relay in I get 1.7volts to the wire harness at the pump, when I jumper the relay with a wire I get straight 12volts to the pump harness. The pump has no sign of life, I even tested by connecting a spare battery directly to the positive and negative terminals.

      Something has caused the new pump to fail just like the first one. I had more than 1/4 tank of gas this time, however some of the gas still had seafoam in it. I am thinking htat the seafoam has cleaned out the tank and taken stuff through the filter and clogged it causing the pumps to fail.

      My question is what do you think is causing the failing of my pumps, could the fuel pressure regulator affect this, also I have a non active O2 sensor, is this related? I wanna get another pump from a junker car but want to change some things before I run it to see if it too will die.

      Thanks in advance
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