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Corrado 20v 1.8T

99K views 355 replies 48 participants last post by  3 bar 
#1 · (Edited)
Long story short, I have a 2L stage 4 g60 that is getting tired and KK is no longer in business...so I decided to look for a donor heart for my old C and to my surprise, locally, I found an smahed up(in the rear only) auto 03' Jetta w/89K on the clock and got it for a whopping $600 bucks, ran fine and everything:thumbup:

time has come to swap it in, or at least begin with my slow process to make sure everything gets done correctly. I'm learning a **** ton, so constructive criticism is highly advertised.

and my small, but rapidly growing list of goodies:
89K AWP 1.8T motor, harness, and ecu.
New axles
New steering rack, tie rods, wheel bearings ect.
Powerflex prothane bushings
BFI billet aluminum solid front motor mount, BFI Stage 2 Polyurethane trans mount, OE rear mount w/ Prothane insert.
MMP tach converter
Diesel Geeks SS w/side to side reduction


ECU flashed w/immob defeat, emission delete, cat delete.
mount mk4 pedal assembly into Corrado(need more information on this mysterious mounting plate)
Silicone hoses for AWP
Forge DV valve
SAI block off plate
FMIC/piping
shave front bumper
body work
re-spray
coils, wheels, tires, spacers.

90' G60


The donor-








yayyyy AWP-ness




getting a few things done.



I did stupidly break the oil dummy connector, looks like a one wire show can't I just cut, replace, solder in and be ok? will a aww one work or is the awp one a later style?



more updates soon:)
 
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#167 ·
werk done breh. after some intense wiggling. I turned the crank pulley over a few times and heard/felt no hard resistance, so I am assuming I will be find and that the 02a BARELY fits on the 20v block. ECS said that the casting imperfection on usually on the late models- I'm hoping I'm ok :)

I did however NOT use my brain and torqued the front billet mount down to the torque specs the Bentley says too...and stripped it. FML. So now I need another solid front mount :banghead:









 
#174 ·
Not sure how you plan to intercool this thing - but you might want to move the coolant bottle to the passenger side if you run the turbo out line to the drivers side to give you more room to say - change the brake fluid. Otherwise it's a pain.

To block off unused water nipples I used silicone caps (doubled up) I bought from McMaster.
 
#176 · (Edited)
Yai I"m the start of page 6! Man your Corrado is looking good!My wife's camera is broken. Haven't been able to take pictures. Been dealing with the fact that it wonk spark. I've even don the vag com and nothing. Fuel pump is going, throttle body sounds,coils get power but no signal. I've replaced the spark module 3 times. I going bald!
 
#180 ·
I got it running!!! Man It sounds good! Right now I have the MAF right next to the throttle body. I'm going to rent a 2 wheel dolly to tow it to the shopso they can make intercooler piping. I used a 1998 Passsat 1.8T harness with ECU. I used a haness from the junkyard and removed F, G1, G2, OBD2 plugs out of it and fused it to the AEB harness. Its nice!!!. It idles really well. I followed this set up and bounced it of the AEB wiring diagram.




 
#187 · (Edited)
things are going ok, tiring up loose ends like coolant lines, FMIC piping, ect ect.

still have to swap the DBW in, shouldn't take too long.

now I have been told the auto ME7.5 ECM for my AWP 1.8T will not work. I was under the impression the ECM could be reloaded with M/T firmware and recoded to accept the M/T firmware, but sadley it looks like the later 2002's+ ECM's are specific and can't be recoded. So now I am on the hunt for a manual AWP ECM. THIS SUCKS :laugh:
 
#188 ·
things are going ok, tiring up loose ends like coolant lines, FMIC piping, ect ect.

still have to swap the DBW in, shouldn't take too long.

now I have been told the auto ME7.5 ECM for my AWP 1.8T will not work. I was under the impression the ECM could be reloaded with M/T firmware and recoded to accept the M/T firmware, but sadley it looks like the later 2002's+ ECM's are specific and can't be recoded. So now I am on the hunt for a manual AWP ECM. THIS SUCKS :laugh:

Man that sucks!!!!
 
#196 ·
only thing I am waiting on is my fricken billet dipstick/tube.

Thanks GruvenParts for lieing about when it would be shipped out.

pretty much stuck driving the car for about two weeks then place her back into hibernation.

so probably won't even get to break the clutch in. I might as well go to the dealer and buy a new orange tube and dipstick. This is ****ing stupid!!!
 
#198 ·
I just picked up an orange dipstick/tube, gonna put that in and fill her up with oil and give it a shot. I still have to put DBW in, but that won't be that bad. I can still at least see how it starts/idles without the pedal installed, just have it chillen on the floor lol
 
#207 ·
today's agenda.


need help from my fellow 20v'ers.

1) need to know which o2 is the front one, the one with more pins or the one with few pins?

2) how did everyone run their ecm harness(harness with t10 connectors on it)

3) when i look at all the lists for splicing the wiring into the ce2 plugs, all the wires from the ECM side to the t10 connectors, do the list talk more on the male ends or the female ends? As I am using both...and it seems the wires are a little bit different on the female t10 ends(my hybrid harness. female t10 ends spliced to ce2 plugs)

and just for start up idle purposes, would it matter if there is no IC hooked up?
 
#210 · (Edited)
questions

today's agenda.


need help from my fellow 20v'ers.

1) need to know which o2 is the front one, the one with more pins or the one with few pins?

2) how did everyone run their ecm harness(harness with t10 connectors on it)

3) when i look at all the lists for splicing the wiring into the ce2 plugs, all the wires from the ECM side to the t10 connectors, do the list talk more on the male ends or the female ends? As I am using both...and it seems the wires are a little bit different on the female t10 ends(my hybrid harness. female t10 ends spliced to ce2 plugs)


and just for start up idle purposes, would it matter if there is no IC hooked up?
#2, I ran the ecu inside the car.
#3, I spliced in to the male side. I had to use the wiring diagram because some of the wire colors didn't match. I assumed it was mostly written from the female side. I might be wrong but I bounce all the information from the diagram and the Corrado Bently manual.
For start up purposes I put the maf sensor where the throttle was at. It ran good.
 
#213 · (Edited)
about 60% done with the wiring. have quite a few extra wires for my t14a and t6/10 plugs. what should I do with them? tape them off and hide them in the loom or use some kind of wingnut and hide them in the loom?

since my ECM harness was originally an auto, some things are slightly different. for instance:

t10x Orange plug- I am missing pin 2 (green/red to ECU T121/81) to tach adapter to G1 pin 12.

t10w White plug-Missing pin 4 (white/red to ECU T121/39) to clutch pedal switch.

what should I do for these missing wires in my plugs?

also pin 1 from my t10w White plug runs into the DLC, IIRC it is supposed to run to pin 2?

It says t10x Orange plug pin 1 (grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) to DLC. What wire on DLC? black/blue?

for T14a (14 pin connector near battery) it says pin 4 (purple) CTS to G2 pin 3, what size resistor? I have 100ohm 5% tolerance.

another T14a one. Pin 6 (yellow/black) fused 10amp to fuel pump relay (fuse shared with T6/6) to g2 pin 4. What does it mean when it says fuse shared with t6/6? I do have a t6/6 but I wasn't going to use it? Do I have too?

how many inline fuses did everyone use to? I only used two?

also for the ECM harness itself, there are quite a few wires that were cut as part of cleaning the auto trans/n80/vac. booster for the auto crap out. should I just cut them short and cap/tape them and hide them in the loom?
 
#216 · (Edited)
Good news. Figured it out.

I THOUGHT I was missing these wires:
t10x Orange plug- I am missing pin 2 (green/red to ECU T121/81) to tach adapter to G1 pin 12.
t10x Orange plug- Pin 6 blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed signal in dash wiring Y (Hall speed sensor on clocks W pin 1)
t10w White plug-Missing pin 4 (white/red to ECU T121/39) to clutch pedal switch.

t10x Orange pin 2- Runs from the ECM harness bulkhead to the orange t10x male connector, but not the female connector. The auto must not of used this.
t10x Orange pin 6- On manual this wire goes from T121/54 to the t10x orange male connector. In the A/T version this wire runs to the TCM. I found it as I remembered I snipped one wire between both the ECM and TCM connectors. Looked at AWP wiring diagrams and I was right.
t10w White plug- Pin 4, this wire also goes from the ECM harness bulkhead to t10w white connector, but not the female conenctor.

so all in all, I have to repin the female t10x and 10w connectors to accept the two I thought I was missing.

for the t10x pin 6, I will extend from ECM bulkhead and pin it to where it needs to be as the female end of the t10x has the wire in it.

:thumbup:

so now my fears of finding a m/t ECM harness are over. Just a manual ECM :laugh:

still-

for T14a (14 pin connector near battery) it says pin 4 (purple) CTS to G2 pin 3, what size resistor? I have 100ohm 5% tolerance.

another T14a one. Pin 6 (yellow/black) fused 10amp to fuel pump relay (fuse shared with T6/6) to g2 pin 4.
What does it mean when it says fuse shared with t6/6? I do have a t6/6 but I wasn't going to use it? Do I have too?

How about wiring in a CEL/MIL light? The early g60 didn't have any of this and it would be a nice feature.

also, where is the starter interlock??? or am I just dumb with this

should be finishing wiring tonight:thumbup:
 
#221 ·
everything has power now. but something happen to my t14 plug it won't fit itself, have to figure this out so I can crank this sucker over. One stupid thing after another :banghead:
 
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