Corrado 20v 1.8T

[2OVT]

#2, I ran the ecu inside the car.
#3, I spliced in to the male side. I had to use the wiring diagram because some of the wire colors didn't match. I assumed it was mostly written from the female side. I might be wrong but I bounce all the information from the diagram and the Corrado Bently manual.
For start up purposes I put the maf sensor where the throttle was at. It ran good.

can you provide some pictures? you must of really cut and extended some of them, the hole for the engine harness to inside the bay cannot fit both those harnesses.

[dri0514]

can you provide some pictures? you must of really cut and extended some of them, the hole for the engine harness to inside the bay cannot fit both those harnesses.

It did fit my AEB harness and plugs. I did have to remove the back covers and some good pushing. I'll give you some pictures that would help.

[2OVT]

about 60% done with the wiring. have quite a few extra wires for my t14a and t6/10 plugs. what should I do with them? tape them off and hide them in the loom or use some kind of wingnut and hide them in the loom?

since my ECM harness was originally an auto, some things are slightly different. for instance:

t10x Orange plug- I am missing pin 2 (green/red to ECU T121/81) to tach adapter to G1 pin 12.

t10w White plug-Missing pin 4 (white/red to ECU T121/39) to clutch pedal switch.

what should I do for these missing wires in my plugs?

also pin 1 from my t10w White plug runs into the DLC, IIRC it is supposed to run to pin 2?

It says t10x Orange plug pin 1 (grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) to DLC. What wire on DLC? black/blue?

for T14a (14 pin connector near battery) it says pin 4 (purple) CTS to G2 pin 3, what size resistor? I have 100ohm 5% tolerance.

another T14a one. Pin 6 (yellow/black) fused 10amp to fuel pump relay (fuse shared with T6/6) to g2 pin 4. What does it mean when it says fuse shared with t6/6? I do have a t6/6 but I wasn't going to use it? Do I have too?

how many inline fuses did everyone use to? I only used two?

also for the ECM harness itself, there are quite a few wires that were cut as part of cleaning the auto trans/n80/vac. booster for the auto crap out. should I just cut them short and cap/tape them and hide them in the loom?

[bansheelos]

[dri0514]

about 60% done with the wiring. have quite a few extra wires for my t14a and t6/10 plugs. what should I do with them? tape them off and hide them in the loom or use some kind of wingnut and hide them in the loom?

since my ECM harness was originally an auto, some things are slightly different. for instance:

t10x Orange plug- I am missing pin 2 (green/red to ECU T121/81) to tach adapter to G1 pin 12.

t10w White plug-Missing pin 4 (white/red to ECU T121/39) to clutch pedal switch.

what should I do for these missing wires in my plugs?

also pin 1 from my t10w White plug runs into the DLC, IIRC it is supposed to run to pin 2?

It says t10x Orange plug pin 1 (grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) to DLC. What wire on DLC? black/blue?

for T14a (14 pin connector near battery) it says pin 4 (purple) CTS to G2 pin 3, what size resistor? I have 100ohm 5% tolerance.

another T14a one. Pin 6 (yellow/black) fused 10amp to fuel pump relay (fuse shared with T6/6) to g2 pin 4. What does it mean when it says fuse shared with t6/6? I do have a t6/6 but I wasn't going to use it? Do I have too?

how many inline fuses did everyone use to? I only used two?

also for the ECM harness itself, there are quite a few wires that were cut as part of cleaning the auto trans/n80/vac. booster for the auto crap out. should I just cut them short and cap/tape them and hide them in the loom?

WOW! Thats a lot of wires. Can you take some pictures? Just trying to picture it.

[2OVT]

Good news. Figured it out.

I THOUGHT I was missing these wires:
t10x Orange plug- I am missing pin 2 (green/red to ECU T121/81) to tach adapter to G1 pin 12.
t10x Orange plug- Pin 6 blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed signal in dash wiring Y (Hall speed sensor on clocks W pin 1)
t10w White plug-Missing pin 4 (white/red to ECU T121/39) to clutch pedal switch.

t10x Orange pin 2- Runs from the ECM harness bulkhead to the orange t10x male connector, but not the female connector. The auto must not of used this.
t10x Orange pin 6- On manual this wire goes from T121/54 to the t10x orange male connector. In the A/T version this wire runs to the TCM. I found it as I remembered I snipped one wire between both the ECM and TCM connectors. Looked at AWP wiring diagrams and I was right.
t10w White plug- Pin 4, this wire also goes from the ECM harness bulkhead to t10w white connector, but not the female conenctor.

so all in all, I have to repin the female t10x and 10w connectors to accept the two I thought I was missing.

for the t10x pin 6, I will extend from ECM bulkhead and pin it to where it needs to be as the female end of the t10x has the wire in it.



so now my fears of finding a m/t ECM harness are over. Just a manual ECM

still-

for T14a (14 pin connector near battery) it says pin 4 (purple) CTS to G2 pin 3, what size resistor? I have 100ohm 5% tolerance.

another T14a one. Pin 6 (yellow/black) fused 10amp to fuel pump relay (fuse shared with T6/6) to g2 pin 4.
What does it mean when it says fuse shared with t6/6? I do have a t6/6 but I wasn't going to use it? Do I have too?

How about wiring in a CEL/MIL light? The early g60 didn't have any of this and it would be a nice feature.

also, where is the starter interlock??? or am I just dumb with this

should be finishing wiring tonight

[3 bar]

I'm doing a similar swap with a rebuilt AEB motor and a t3/t4 setup. Don't want to rattle my fillings out so i'm using the stock front mount. I have already converted my suspension on my car to 5 lug using a 95 Jetta GLX suspension with bigger axles and polyurethane and r32 bushings. Plan on doing a mk4 shifter conversion. Good luck with your swap!

Correction: just bought and installed a BFI solid front motor mount on my g-60 after having my motor jump up and hit my hood. I will using this for my 1.8t swap.

[2OVT]

Correction: just bought and installed a BFI solid front motor mount on my g-60 after having my motor jump up and hit my hood. I will using this for my 1.8t swap.

My BFI mount I installed I accidentally stripped the bottom bolt cavity and am waiting on another, currently it is sitting on a BBM solid front mount (which is around 3/4's of an inch higher than the BFI mount). Using the BBM solid front mount, a regular catless 3" dp barley fits. Since the BBM mount is taller than the BFI one, the motor is at a bit more of an angle. Using the BFI mount, you'll have to get a custom DP made if it's in 3" to accommodate for the angle.

with BFI front mount the stock g60 hood clears, with the taller BBM mount, it does not

wiring is 96% done, finish tomorrow and hope for first start. FINALLY!

[turtledub]

BFI front mount the stock g60 hood clears, with the taller BBM mount, it does not

wiring is 96% done, finish tomorrow and hope for first start. FINALLY!

Good to know on the motor mount. I have a BBM one. Glad to hear the wiring is almost done. I hope it starts on the first try for you.

[dri0514]

My BFI mount I installed I accidentally stripped the bottom bolt cavity and am waiting on another, currently it is sitting on a BBM solid front mount (which is around 3/4's of an inch higher than the BFI mount). Using the BBM solid front mount, a regular catless 3" dp barley fits. Since the BBM mount is taller than the BFI one, the motor is at a bit more of an angle. Using the BFI mount, you'll have to get a custom DP made if it's in 3" to accommodate for the angle.

with BFI front mount the stock g60 hood clears, with the taller BBM mount, it does not

wiring is 96% done, finish tomorrow and hope for first start. FINALLY!

Any word?

[2OVT]

everything has power now. but something happen to my t14 plug it won't fit itself, have to figure this out so I can crank this sucker over. One stupid thing after another

[smoothaseggs]

waiting paitiently

[EnIgMa '06]

If it turns over, how close will you be to driving it? We should go for a drive before it gets too cold for my tires.

[2OVT]

Just tabs, tires and an alignment. That would be awesome!

[2OVT]

[Rod Ratio]

Congratulations

[2OVT]

Congratulations

thanks man. found out my 5spd ecm I picked up already has immo defeated

I am throwing two codes for manifold pressure. I have NO charge piping hooked up, MAP isn't hooked up, no pipe off the turbo(one that recirculates DV/n75) and the car dies after 5 seconds of running. Anyone help?

here are my codes-

p0238 - manifold pressure/boost sensor(g31): signal too high.
p0106 - manifold/barometric pressure sensor (g71)/(f96) implausible signal.

[dri0514]

thanks man. found out my 5spd ecm I picked up already has immo defeated

I am throwing two codes for manifold pressure. I have NO charge piping hooked up, MAP isn't hooked up, no pipe off the turbo(one that recirculates DV/n75) and the car dies after 5 seconds of running. Anyone help?

here are my codes-

p0238 - manifold pressure/boost sensor(g31): signal too high.
p0106 - manifold/barometric pressure sensor (g71)/(f96) implausible signal.

I'm so happy for you!!! Is everything hooked up?

[Rod Ratio]

thanks man. found out my 5spd ecm I picked up already has immo defeated

I am throwing two codes for manifold pressure. I have NO charge piping hooked up, MAP isn't hooked up, no pipe off the turbo(one that recirculates DV/n75) and the car dies after 5 seconds of running. Anyone help?

here are my codes-

p0238 - manifold pressure/boost sensor(g31): signal too high.
p0106 - manifold/barometric pressure sensor (g71)/(f96) implausible signal.

You just answered your own question.

Get that MAP sensor in the loop.

MAF, VVT, N112, N80, N75, N249, SAI, etc wont cause the car to not run when disconnected.

MAP needs to be there to even run in open loop.

[dri0514]

How's the car going?

[2OVT]

IMMO off.

I think the turbo is bad.

[Rod Ratio]

IMMO off.

I think the turbo is bad.

How do you figure?

[2OVT]

the goofy wind during shut off.

now I am fighting with a small coolant hose. this one to be exact.

problem is; I am using the manual coolant flange with the auto hard pipes from the water pump. so the hose is literraly about a 1/4" too small. any ideas? Only thing I can think of is switching back to an automatic coolant flange then I'll be ok. Unless the manual one is slightly longer.

[WoLfBuRgJeTTa]

Heat gun

[turtledub]

Heat gun

This plus a metal funnel or some other cone shape that you can jam in there while you heat it up. I don't know how much play you will get out of the hose if it is renforced. I had to do this to a coolant line once. The other problem is making sure it does not shrink back down.

[hallkbrd]

with BFI front mount the stock g60 hood clears, with the taller BBM mount, it does not

Right. I have the BBM front mount and the old stock hood cleared - with a simple modification. I took the vac hose connection on the top of the intake manifold off, threaded the hole for a "flush" bolt, and then all was good.

[2OVT]

good to know. did you have a problem with the oil cooler water lines hitting the fan using this mount?

[2OVT]

so here it is...officially.

using the automatic 1.8t water pipes and a manual coolant flange I needed another 1"-to-3/4" coolant hose in a 90 bend. VW doesn't sell the hose separate, so I attempted to cut and splice in a section of copper pipe to make it longer to work with the manual flange. wrong. VW wanted $160 for the water pipes with the manual coolant hoses. F-that. So I traveled up to the local Auto Value and they ordered me what I wanted for $12. Got it and cut it to fit and it barley fits. Slightly bends in where the bend is. So I will more than likely have to switch back to the auto coolant flange for it to work flawlessly.





also found a local drag shop (that I didn't know existed) and they happen to have a few tach adapters on stock, so I picked up a MSD 8920 for $60. Seems pretty straight forward.
black-ground; red-power; white-tach signal from ecm; purple-g1/12.
done.

[Rod Ratio]

You might want to spend a few bucks with these guys in the near future.

http://www.jrmfabrication.com/?wpsc-...coolant-flange

[hallkbrd]

good to know. did you have a problem with the oil cooler water lines hitting the fan using this mount?

Well, as I have no oil cooler water lines - that was not a problem. I use a sandwich adapter and a real oil cooler.

[2OVT]

You might want to spend a few bucks with these guys in the near future.

http://www.jrmfabrication.com/?wpsc-...coolant-flange

Nice. Will do. This will go good with my gruven bullet dipstick crap :p

[Rod Ratio]

They have the coolant hardpipe with an fittings too

[dri0514]

Looking good!!!

[2OVT]

Decided since I still need intercooler piping that I am going to rig up the stock side mount for now. It's going to be a long 850miles before the clutch is broken in anyway. Stock SMIC and stock tune should do the clutch good until break in. Then I'll put my FMIC in once I get more piping and a stage 2 tune. Hopefully by then I'll be stacking more big turbo goodies up.

body work coming soon

[dri0514]

you can do this intercooler set up.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3007299