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    Thread: Technical Data and Modifications for Hardcore Enthusiasts

    1. Member
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      03-27-2012 01:51 PM #36
      Quote Originally Posted by Tyrol Mike View Post
      Day 5 – Swaybars

      GolfR has 22mm both front and rear. Perhaps to dial out some understeer, perhaps to balance the chassis due to the GolfR having more weight in the rear. Perhaps both.
      Are those bars on both cars hollow or solid?

    2. Forum Sponsor TyrolSport's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 01:55 PM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by webcrawlr View Post
      Are those bars on both cars hollow or solid?
      Working on that. Both solid on the GTI, but I'm not 100% certain on the R.

    3. Member fatdubs fatman's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 02:05 PM #38
      nice! this is greta info.
      current: 2012 Golf R CW 4 door base, 2004 R32 Silver, 1989 Golf vr6, 1985 Gti vr6

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    4. Member John Y's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 02:06 PM #39
      Good stuff as always, Mike, I enjoyed reading that even though I don't have an R...enjoy your car! Regards from Germany.

    5. Member nectar13's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 02:17 PM #40
      good stuff man. this is the kind of thread i can get into.

    6. Member Wlfsbrg2.0T's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 03:32 PM #41
      Great info on the different weights, surprising to see the MKV with an ever so slight edge in f/r distribution. Anxiously awaiting the results of relocating the battery to the trunk, I would definitely be interested if it works out, especially with oem parts.

      Great info on everything, thank you for taking the time to share with everybody!

      EDIT: Looking back over the weights (MKV vs MKVI) although the MKV shows less % of it's weight on the front axle, it still has more weight total on the front axle. It just has more weight on the rear axle as well to balance it out. Interesting.

      I'd just assumed the weight loss for the MKVI was all off the front, but somewhere they took some weight off the rear as well. Thinking about this further, I guess it probably all goes back to the battery location...too bad they didn't leave it back there. But I guess that is probably where the weight loss comes from in the rear.

      (Sorry, I was confused, y'all may not have been...don't mind me)
      Last edited by Wlfsbrg2.0T; 03-27-2012 at 03:41 PM.
      Tornado Red 2012 Golf R Base 4-Door APR Stg 1 EVOMS Intake KW V3's BC Forged RS41 Wheels HPA Dog Bone Mount VWR SS Porsche/RB BBK H&R RSB


    7. Member brandonekingatl's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 04:42 PM #43
      Subscribed, keep bringing the great info!!

    8. Member Gyntry's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 04:51 PM #44
      Sub'd and vote for Sticky!
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      Past: 08 GTI (Stg 2, sold), 12 Golf R (Stg 2+, sold), 14 S4 (Stock, sold)
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      03-27-2012 05:00 PM #45
      +1 on sticky. This thread will have a great deal of information that will allow those that actually use the search function an immense amount of data.

    10. Forum Sponsor TyrolSport's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 05:26 PM #46
      Last of easy kills on the front suspension and I am going home for the day.

      The front lower control arm bushings are as mushy as my moms tatas.

      Luckily the VW/Audi parts bin comes to the rescue again with some solid rubber units out of the Audi TT. These make a really nice difference in steering precision and solidity in the front end. While it looks plug and play, the aluminum brackets are different. In order to use the solid rubber bushing, it must be pressed out, and pressed into your existing housing(I will have a DIY for this later in thread). I have done a ton of mk5s and mk6s with great success(You have to use the Borat voice). The Golf R is no different. The bushing is not available without the aluminum housing, which makes the price more expensive. Oh well, still worth it.

      Last edited by TyrolSport; 03-27-2012 at 05:29 PM.

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      03-27-2012 05:58 PM #47
      Great additions to the thread. It will be interesting to see what the weight differences are between the cast iron and alum parts.

      There's a lot of weith that can be taken off the front brakes. On the MKIV R32 the 334mm rotors are approx 22lbs and caliper/pad 23lbs. I would expect the larger rotor on the MKV & VI to weigh even more. My custom setup weights less with caliper and rotor than just the OEM rotor.

      I was suprised by the lack of front camber. I know teched preaches that our high caster setups do not require much camber, but less than half a degree with no adjustment does not look good for stock class autocrossing.

    12. 03-27-2012 06:03 PM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by Tyrol Mike View Post

      Some of you may remember me as Tyrolkid from the 1.8T forum. For those that don’t, I like to play with cars.
      So, does this car make you feel like a Kid again? I want a ride!

    13. Member CALICSGR's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 06:15 PM #49
      Great thread. Thanks!

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      03-27-2012 06:18 PM #50
      I want to know how to turn off the ESP.......
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    15. 03-27-2012 06:50 PM #51
      With the battery relocation it will be interesting to see if the added weight of running heavy gauge wire from the back of the car to the front will have a significant counter effect. Not sure how much that battery cable might weigh though so I am just hypothesizing. Maybe just running a lightweight battery would be a better option.

      As a quick test you should pull the battery out and just drop it in the trunk in the rough location and see how the front/rear weigh distribution changes. I guess it's pretty simple math if you know the weight of the battery...anyone, anyone...Bueller?

      What size gauge of wire would you have to run to the front? Also would I be right in assuming you only have to run a positive or do you also need to run a negative?

    16. Banned BetaOp9's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 07:52 PM #52
      Quote Originally Posted by codewhore View Post
      With the battery relocation it will be interesting to see if the added weight of running heavy gauge wire from the back of the car to the front will have a significant counter effect. Not sure how much that battery cable might weigh though so I am just hypothesizing. Maybe just running a lightweight battery would be a better option.

      As a quick test you should pull the battery out and just drop it in the trunk in the rough location and see how the front/rear weigh distribution changes. I guess it's pretty simple math if you know the weight of the battery...anyone, anyone...Bueller?

      What size gauge of wire would you have to run to the front? Also would I be right in assuming you only have to run a positive or do you also need to run a negative?
      Depending on the gauge used. Here is a rough estimate, but a lot of factors come into play such as wire density and purity as well as the insulation thickness and density.

      || 10 GUAGE || 0.031 LBS PER FOOT ||
      || 08 GUAGE || 0.050 LBS PER FOOT ||
      || 06 GUAGE || 0.079 LBS PER FOOT ||
      || 04 GUAGE || 0.126 LBS PER FOOT ||

      So if you ran two cables [positive and negative] from the front to the back of a total of 15ft each...totalling 30 feet of cable...

      || 10 GUAGE || +0.93 LBS ||
      || 08 GUAGE || +1.50 LBS ||
      || 06 GUAGE || +2.37 LBS ||
      || 04 GUAGE || +3.78 LBS ||

      Half that if you only run one.

      Hope that gives you an idea of the added weight.

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      03-27-2012 08:37 PM #53
      Quote Originally Posted by Tyrol Mike View Post
      Last of easy kills on the front suspension and I am going home for the day.

      The front lower control arm bushings are as mushy as my moms tatas.

      Luckily the VW/Audi parts bin comes to the rescue again with some solid rubber units out of the Audi TT. These make a really nice difference in steering precision and solidity in the front end. While it looks plug and play, the aluminum brackets are different. In order to use the solid rubber bushing, it must be pressed out, and pressed into your existing housing(I will have a DIY for this later in thread). I have done a ton of mk5s and mk6s with great success(You have to use the Borat voice). The Golf R is no different. The bushing is not available without the aluminum housing, which makes the price more expensive. Oh well, still worth it.

      You could probably do the Whiteline bushings instead. Adds about 1/2 degree of caster, has a solid urethane bushing which is replaceable without the housing.


    18. Member DaLeadBull's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 09:16 PM #54
      How do you think a 19x8 wheel with 235/35 tire will fit?

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      03-27-2012 09:32 PM #55
      Subscribed!
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    20. 03-27-2012 09:36 PM #56
      Well done. Looking forward to to your technical exploration!

    21. Member climbingcue's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 09:39 PM #57
      Quote Originally Posted by usurbrain View Post
      I want to know how to turn off the ESP.......
      You, Me and the rest of the world...
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    22. Member vwtechr32's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 11:13 PM #58
      Great info. Mike looking forward to all the details

      And regarding codewhore's concern of the added cable weight you can always use Accels light weight battery cables.



      ACCEL Lightning Battery Cable allows your racecar to have the same amount of energy and power running thru your battery cables at half of the weight. The 4, 2, and 1/0 gauge cable is half the weight of traditional battery cable. This allows you to lighten up your car or add weight were it will help the car handle better. The wire is available in 20 and 100 foot spools to re-wire one or several racecars.
      The ACCEL Lightning Cable is half the weight of standard battery cable.
      Easy to use compression fittings and terminals simply twist and screw on.
      Red and black heat shrink tubing kits available to put a professional looking finish on the terminal ends.
      Pre made 3 foot long grounding cables available in 4 and 2 gauge.
      ACCEL Lightning Cable is available in 1/0, 2, and 4 gauge wire thickness on 20 foot or 100 foot spools to wire one or several racecars.

    23. Member Lamfalus's Avatar
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      03-28-2012 02:03 AM #59
      Quote Originally Posted by codewhore View Post
      With the battery relocation it will be interesting to see if the added weight of running heavy gauge wire from the back of the car to the front will have a significant counter effect. Not sure how much that battery cable might weigh though so I am just hypothesizing. Maybe just running a lightweight battery would be a better option.

      As a quick test you should pull the battery out and just drop it in the trunk in the rough location and see how the front/rear weigh distribution changes. I guess it's pretty simple math if you know the weight of the battery...anyone, anyone...Bueller?

      What size gauge of wire would you have to run to the front? Also would I be right in assuming you only have to run a positive or do you also need to run a negative?
      I think a relocated AND lightweight battery is best.
      Past - 2001 GTI 1.8T, 1997 Jetta GLX VR6
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    24. Member Lamfalus's Avatar
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      03-28-2012 02:06 AM #60
      Quote Originally Posted by ToeBall View Post
      You could probably do the Whiteline bushings instead. Adds about 1/2 degree of caster, has a solid urethane bushing which is replaceable without the housing.

      Certainly an option, but more expensive I'd guess (?) and a bigger impact to NVH than the Audi one.
      Past - 2001 GTI 1.8T, 1997 Jetta GLX VR6
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    25. Member Lamfalus's Avatar
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      03-28-2012 02:07 AM #61
      And I will also say this thread is all sorts of awesome. to data, no anecdotes here!
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    26. Member Lamfalus's Avatar
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      03-28-2012 02:10 AM #62
      Quote Originally Posted by Tyrol Mike View Post
      How much do those SSRs weigh? Had some 9 lb SSR Comps on my STS Civic awhile back and was wondering what they offer in a Golf R fitment.
      Past - 2001 GTI 1.8T, 1997 Jetta GLX VR6
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      03-28-2012 04:56 AM #63
      Sticky Sticky Sticky Sticky Sticky Sticky Sticky Sticky Sticky Sticky Sticky!!!!!!!!!!

      This is by far the best thread I have ever scene here on da 'Tex period!!!! Before I get my GoRf I'm already planing on what I will do to her. APR Stage 2 is first up. Next is the suspention. Prior to this thread I was wondering what I would do to the suspension to get the analog feel and performance I like. Also just like my MKIV.:R32 weight reduction (especially unsprung) is a no brainer. Keep it coming.

      OP have you thought about reducing the weight of the windshield and other glass with Lexan? That would be more weight off the front, and lower the center of gravity even for the other windows.
      UNDER STEER MUST DIE!!! As my skills/abilities increase UNDER STEER magically disappears!!!
      Stock is like virginity: Useless and should be gotten rid as soon as possible!!!!

    28. 03-28-2012 08:03 AM #64
      Quote Originally Posted by vwtechr32 View Post
      Great info. Mike looking forward to all the details

      And regarding codewhore's concern of the added cable weight you can always use Accels light weight battery cables.



      ACCEL Lightning Battery Cable allows your racecar to have the same amount of energy and power running thru your battery cables at half of the weight. The 4, 2, and 1/0 gauge cable is half the weight of traditional battery cable. This allows you to lighten up your car or add weight were it will help the car handle better. The wire is available in 20 and 100 foot spools to re-wire one or several racecars.
      The ACCEL Lightning Cable is half the weight of standard battery cable.
      Easy to use compression fittings and terminals simply twist and screw on.
      Red and black heat shrink tubing kits available to put a professional looking finish on the terminal ends.
      Pre made 3 foot long grounding cables available in 4 and 2 gauge.
      ACCEL Lightning Cable is available in 1/0, 2, and 4 gauge wire thickness on 20 foot or 100 foot spools to wire one or several racecars.
      Who is this masked man????

      Great thread lots of good info. Already considered swapping out the cast pieces up front in hopes to lighten it up. Its also interesting to see those test fits as I did a similar test with an ET48 OZ Ultraleggera and found the wheel its self lined up at or just outside the fender hard to tell with the tires that were mounted but it definitely wasn't as flush as I expected. I'd rather not have to play with camber to get a wheel/tire to fit but adjust based on cornering needs.

    29. Member climbingcue's Avatar
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      03-28-2012 08:08 AM #65
      Quote Originally Posted by GOT R32? View Post
      OP have you thought about reducing the weight of the windshield and other glass with Lexan?
      You can not run Lexan windshield on a car that is driven on the street...
      United Motorsport 12.311@112 mph on 93 octane
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      03-28-2012 08:09 AM #66
      Quote Originally Posted by Lamfalus View Post
      Certainly an option, but more expensive I'd guess (?) and a bigger impact to NVH than the Audi one.
      Not sure about OEM, but a quick search turned these up for $200. http://vr-speed.com/store/whiteline-...16-p-9038.html

      As far as NVH goes, if a Passat owner doesn't complain it can't be that harsh. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...nstalled-today

      I don't know. I'm willing to give it a try and see how well it works, if my R ever gets here.

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      03-28-2012 08:26 AM #67
      Quote Originally Posted by DaLeadBull View Post
      How do you think a 19x8 wheel with 235/35 tire will fit?
      That's an OEM fitment for the Golf R.

    32. Forum Sponsor TyrolSport's Avatar
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      03-28-2012 08:42 AM #68
      Quote Originally Posted by ToeBall View Post
      You could probably do the Whiteline bushings instead. Adds about 1/2 degree of caster, has a solid urethane bushing which is replaceable without the housing.
      The Whiteline stuff is definitely neat, and does what it describes. I have installed a few sets in the past. There is definitely one downside; On a street driven car it just does not last as long as the OEM solution. The bushings end up cracking. I don't believe in using polyurethane in a shear application. If you are willing to constantly check and replace as necessary, the Whiteline is a good option, especially since it is plug and play.
      Last edited by TyrolSport; 03-28-2012 at 10:14 AM.

    33. Forum Sponsor TyrolSport's Avatar
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      03-28-2012 08:44 AM #69
      Quote Originally Posted by Lamfalus View Post
      How much do those SSRs weigh? Had some 9 lb SSR Comps on my STS Civic awhile back and was wondering what they offer in a Golf R fitment.
      The SSR GT2s pictures are 18x8.5 and weight 17-18lbs. I will weigh them today. You should be able to find a set of SSR competitions in the classifieds that will fit our cars. 17x8/8.5 with 45 offset. Weight will be 16lbs or so for the 17x8. Always a great choice.

    34. Member johannes's Avatar
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      03-28-2012 08:46 AM #70
      Quote Originally Posted by Tyrol Mike View Post
      The Whiteline stuff is definitely neat, and does what it does describe. I have installed a few sets in the past. There is definitely one downside; On a street driven car it just does not last as long as the OEM solution. The bushings end up cracking. I don't believe in using polyurethane in a shear application. If you are willing to constantly check and replace as necessary, the Whiteline is a good option, especially since it is plug and play.
      My Whiteline bushings lasted exactly one track day on my MKV R32 before cracking The solid rubber S3 bushings were great

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