Great thread, I noticed my steering wheel is a little off also, I'm going to have the dealer check it on the first service.
EDIT: I see Toeball already said the same thing and you answered. Makes sense.
Last edited by webcrawlr; 03-28-2012 at 01:12 PM.
Subscribed. This thread is awesome and I don't even have an Ewok.
Maybe we have Friday cars....
Local dealer just quoted me about $1200 in parts to do a complete OEM battery relocated using Mk5 R32 parts. Oof. I think I will hold off for now, as the money could be better spent elsewhere. It is still on the list, but much less of a priority. New hardware for the Aluminum front suspension components should be here by the weekend. I will do a DIY on the installation, as well as weigh the various components to see the savings.
Last edited by TyrolSport; 03-29-2012 at 01:06 PM.
Last edited by BetaOp9; 03-29-2012 at 11:15 AM.
Been wrapping my mind around this for the past couple days and can wait for the solid side by side numbers on these parts. The un-sprung weight loss potential here is HUGE w/ a moderate 17" wheel the control arms and spindles I'm guessing 20+ lbs.? On each corner? Just WOW this will just completely change the whole handling dynamic of this car in a positive way, it's already a very solid set-up then to move the battery, which not only reduces nose weight and better balances the weight but will also slightly lower the center of gravity all good good things. Combine all of this w/ more POWA which we have all been well aware of and it's gonna be a true sleeper.
Wheel -10 lbs
Spindle -5 to 8 lbs?
Arm -3 to 5 lbs?
I just can't weight to see what you end up with here Mike great work knowing you you've gotta be a bit giddy in side realizing the potentials here.
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Great thread, I remember your posts in the 1.8T forum when I got my MKIV GTI in 03.
Looking forward to your subframe mod, I just took the plunge and got some Rigid Collar's to try out at a reduced price.
Do you think you might develop something like this or is your solution different?
"The VR6 was an orchestra of well-tuned cylindrical delights." - jalopnik.com
The notion that this mod allows one to run lower static ride heights (presumably via shorter springs) is wrong. The higher front kinematic instant centers and front roll center adapted by Audi on the VWAG PQ36 platform fulfilled their goal to locate the CG and RC as close as possible to one another in the basic PQ36 kinematic geometry ...in order to reduce the front roll moments that the springs need to resist. In a front view geometry scenario, installing a shorter spring simply moves the lowered TT ball joints upward relative to the control arm pivot, thereby lowering the ICs and the result here is that RC migrates away from the CG ...essentially turning the TT geometry into GTI geometry. As well all know, if you want to run a shorter spring on the font, an appropriate (higher) rate needed to resist increased kinematic front roll moments causes tire loads to be saturated more abruptly, and this makes for a very unforgiving chassis for newbies. And along with this, there’s always the decrease in steering precision due to increased bump steer to consider as well. Hence, the static height of the TT remains within the specification allowed by the PQ36 engineering release (essentially identical to Euro R and GTI) but they rely on the dynamic effect of higher IC & RC to reduce roll moments and they can get away with a slightly softer wheel rates as a result. In order to get the full benefit as the Audi boffins intended, use a spring that maintains the static height within the engineering release.
Another thing to consider is that the ABS system roll & yaw measurement and steering angle input profiles for the ESC programs are different between the R and TT. The ESC on the R could very well be compromised when out-of scope input processing is attempted.
While the efforts in this thread are indeed commendable, I would hope that “hardcore enthusiasts”, i.e.: those who regularly participate in HPDE and autocross events, make a conscious effort to not be like “regular enthusiasts” that assume this modification results in cumulative, ultimate benefits in an overall sense. Once again, I urge everyone to think about the ROI in a context that is specific to one’s personal circumstances (daily driver bragging rights vs. actual benefit with sticky tires for regular track use with a skilled driver) and systemic thinking to identify the pros and cons involved. Specifically, come to realize how the higher front roll center on the TT was applied along with effective front and rear wheel rates and chassis frequencies based on the wider platform, shorter wheelbase, corner weights and roll couple distribution of the TT. While these comparative effects can argued to be minimal between the R and TT, the most important dynamic effects that cannot be minimized are that applying higher front instant centers increases lateral tire scrub in tire bump displacements, and higher the roll center increases jacking forces ...which on the TT are dealt with up to a point by using summer performance tires no narrower than a 245 section width.
Point is, doing the expensive TT control arm /hub mod on an otherwise stock car that still uses the stock springs and bars, and especially the stock 225-section all-season tires ...is, well... nothing that a hardcore enthusiast should accept in terms of the best possible ROI. Keeping the stock springs, A good EPS or R-Comp tire in a 235 or better still, 245 section width would be an absolute necessity to get he most out of this modification for track use ....the increased lateral scrub and jacking forces alone on an a/s 225-section tire driving up to their tractive limits would be a deal breaker for me.
Last edited by TechEd; 03-29-2012 at 04:41 PM.
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