My daughter is about to buy a '97 A4 with the 2.8 V6 engine. It has 146K on it. Are there any issues I should look for?
Thanks for any replies!
The engine is pretty good as long as maintained properly - Oil changes, and no issue neglected.
It should be coming up to it's second timing belt. debatable, from 60k up to 100k depending who you ask. Oil leaks from the camshaft tensioner seals, and valve cover gaskets. ( i'm having mine done this week ) What exacerbates the leaks are the PCV hoses. If they are old, they will come apart as you try to squeeze the endlocks to pull off.
You may find the non-engine issues to be the deal breakers, again from neglect.
Search the B5 forum here
then "For starters, search control arms, water ingress, PCV system, oil leaks, ABS module, coil packs, CCM... "" quoted by Scotts13 B5 forum, and also ECU, door locks, coolant
Have you gotten the pcv system done yet or are you doing the valve cover gaskets and seals? I am leaking out through the valve cover. I went to the dealership in glastonbury today and they told me that the 2005 v6 doesn't normally require the pcv replaced. They insisted that I have the gaskets done. I don't know where to start.
I had already done the pcv 2 years ago, and proud of my success, i resigned to take it apart again to inspect, prior to having my indy mechanic do the Cam Tens seals, and vcg's. And he did, showing me the old seals which he said were never replaced by the dealer$hip on the work order $$$$. My indie mechanic is so good, and reasonably priced, i'm happy whenever i bring work to him. He safety checks it for me regularly.
The pain with the pcv is getting at the bottom tube, right under the throttle body. To remove it without breaking it, i saw a very long (16", $19.99) plier setup at Sears that might work to get it off to inspect it for the event that it doesn't need replacing. Figure that if you're sure you want to replace it, snap off the coupler, and cut away any remaining plastic, and be done with it. The new one snaps back in easy enough. I had to move the vacuum line rack, coolant reservoir tank, throttle body, and air inlet. First time i was intimidated, but not the second time.
The rest of the hoses are pretty straight forward. If they feel brittle like they might break easy, then they haven't been replaced in a long time. Buy yourself the hoses ahead of time and go for it. It's much easier once you've been in there before. Another thing you might consider is changing the Coolant Temp Sensor. I could never get to it with my big hands until i had taken the Air intake ( to throttle body ) off, and all the other stuff, then i could see it. CTS has a danger in replacing with a mis-aligned, or doubled up O-Ring will cause a water leak. The doubling happens when you put the new one on the CTS without removing the old one from the cavity. My model 2000 shipped with a black CTS but that was replaced with a green one in subsequent years, so yours may be the new and improved already. Also while the throttle body is opened up, i took a rag to the interior of it in a blind ( except for a cheesy mirror ) cleaning.
Last edited by rayj; 04-05-2012 at 11:47 AM.
My friends BMW shop changed timing belts on two Audi 2.8l V6 12V engines in winter drivers for BMW customers and the BMW techs overtightened the timing belts. The shop owner had to buy two replacement Audi engines and I had to listen endlessly to how badly Audis were designed compared to BMWs.
Also, the 12V Audi 2.8l V6 has a weak poorly designed staked together two piece idler roller which easily fails.