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Thread: What do you guys use for a Tach?

  1. Member Sycoticmynd29's Avatar
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    03-29-2012 02:00 PM #1
    I've been looking into building a 16v ABA with ITB's.

    So far it seems like the higher power NA builds have a rev limit WAY higher than the stock 7g red line of a mk3.

    So just curious as to what you guys have done to keep an eye on your revs. I know I could always get an aftermarket / external tach, but I'm going for as much of an OEM look as I can, so I'm more interested in anything I could do to replace / modify the existing tach in the gauge cluster?



    Any Ideas? Suggestions? Thanks!
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    03-29-2012 10:16 PM #2
    shift light and bounce off rev limiter

  3. Member Sycoticmynd29's Avatar
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    03-29-2012 10:56 PM #3
    isn't the rev limiter set to 7000?

    I'm planning on going stand alone so I won't have a preset limit.
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    03-29-2012 10:58 PM #4
    stock is prob lower than 7k. with standalone you can set it to what you want.

  5. Member ps2375's Avatar
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    03-30-2012 05:00 PM #5
    You should be able to make a standalone drive the stock tack.
    Tradition is the art of making the same mistake repeatedly, on purpose.

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    04-02-2012 04:33 PM #6
    I wasn't worried about the stock rev limited, or using the stock gauge, but if my car Revs to 10k RPM, I would like a Tach that doesn't stop at 7k.


    I feel like aftermarket will be pretty much the only option.
    Eurofine
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    04-03-2012 09:34 PM #7
    Yeah unless you run the output at 1/2 speed.
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    04-03-2012 10:39 PM #8
    yeah.... Id run it at half
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  9. Member Sycoticmynd29's Avatar
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    04-04-2012 10:40 AM #9
    Anywhere you guys could point me as to how I would do that?
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    04-05-2012 02:25 PM #10
    In ms its an option under tach speed for the output. Other systems, no idea.
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  11. Member ps2375's Avatar
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    04-06-2012 12:02 PM #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Sycoticmynd29 View Post
    I wasn't worried about the stock rev limited, or using the stock gauge, but if my car Revs to 10k RPM, I would like a Tach that doesn't stop at 7k.
    That is a ton of rpm to say "if my car rev's to *** rpm", it had better be built for it before you try it.
    Tradition is the art of making the same mistake repeatedly, on purpose.

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  12. Member Sycoticmynd29's Avatar
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    04-06-2012 12:14 PM #12
    Quote Originally Posted by ps2375 View Post
    That is a ton of rpm to say "if my car rev's to *** rpm", it had better be built for it before you try it.
    Haha, I do plan on building it correctly to reach high RPM.

    I'm still researching a lot of stuff, so I haven't really figured out what a reasonable rev limit is for what I would like.
    Eurofine
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    04-06-2012 12:22 PM #13
    Most cams are going to be best between 7-8k rpm. Even with ITB's. The costs in the build to go higher than 8k rpm become kinda silly, and that is mostly $ thrown at the valve train and port work.
    Tradition is the art of making the same mistake repeatedly, on purpose.

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    04-06-2012 12:26 PM #14
    The real question is does it make power at X rpm?

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    04-06-2012 12:33 PM #15
    Thinking about getting 276* cams with solid lifters and a fully rebuilt head.

    Multi angle valve job
    port and polish

    So on so forth.

    Think 9k is still too high?


    Bonesaw, Does lugtronic have the option to run the tach at different speeds?

    Figured I'd ask you because its in your sig.
    Eurofine
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    04-06-2012 12:51 PM #16
    From what I know, that target is beyond the useful range of that cam profile. Even the 288*'s are most useful at or below 8k.
    Tradition is the art of making the same mistake repeatedly, on purpose.

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    04-06-2012 01:00 PM #17
    So 8k is about the limit unless I go full out race car?
    Eurofine
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    04-06-2012 01:02 PM #18
    there is a tach divider, but sure how useful that would be. 8K is now 4K? really doesnt make much sense. you get a feel for where the needle goes when it reaches certain RPM. you can also use a digital Tach and/or a shift light.

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    04-06-2012 01:11 PM #19
    If I have more options than just cutting it in half it could be useful with a new Gauge over lay.
    Eurofine
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    04-06-2012 02:26 PM #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Sycoticmynd29 View Post
    So 8k is about the limit unless I go full out race car?
    Yes, which means you don't have to spend $$$ on solid lifters and cams. You can use hydro cams and LW lifters. And that $$ can be spent in other places.
    Tradition is the art of making the same mistake repeatedly, on purpose.

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    04-06-2012 02:34 PM #21
    Is it possible to use hydro cams with solid lifters?

    The solid lifters are about $12 more a piece (so about $200 more than LW) which really isn't bad. And if I can get parts that can take more abuse without negatively affecting performance, I will.

    Thanks guys
    Eurofine
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    04-06-2012 03:34 PM #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Sycoticmynd29 View Post
    Is it possible to use hydro cams with solid lifters?

    No.


    But, the hydro cams should be less than solids, and you can find used cams in the classifieds.
    Tradition is the art of making the same mistake repeatedly, on purpose.

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  23. Member Sycoticmynd29's Avatar
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    04-06-2012 03:47 PM #23
    Glad I found that out before I started buying parts haha, although I feel like somewhere along the lines I would have picked that up.


    I'm planning on buying as many parts as I can new. I know it will make the build cost a lot more, but I'd rather spend more to get something new than have a used part fail on me.

    Plus I really like the idea of a motor with miles on nothing but the block and the head itself.
    Eurofine
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