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    Thread: Tie Rod - Question

    1. Member Pottery_Pal's Avatar
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      03-30-2012 05:49 PM #1
      I recently took my Rado in for an alignment check/adjustment to learn my tie rod ends are seized to the threaded rods.

      Given the car is 20+ years old and new complete tie rods are reasonably priced I thought I would just replace the whole tie rod assy, left, right and ends, and start fresh.

      Do you need any special tools to remove the tie rods from the steering gear?

      Bentley also states removal of the tie rods while connected to the steering gear may cause damage to the steering gear..... WTH is up with that


      Anyway I am looking for some input fellow members.




    2. Member
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      92 verde rado gernade(dd),90Q 20v, red rado 24v build
      03-30-2012 06:06 PM #2
      How your engine running. Have it squared away. As far for the tie rods, replace the whole tie rod assemblies for both side, if have the funds, also get new boots and and clamps too. If inner rod are good, no play, you make be lucky just remove the outer with heat and pb-blaster. And use some anti-seized in new tie rods ends. Adjustable wrench should the trick, 36mm is the ideal wrench, last time remember.

    3. Member Pottery_Pal's Avatar
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      03-30-2012 06:35 PM #3
      my rado is running very good. idle hunts a lil when its stone cold but once she warms up no issues and 32 mpg.....

      thanks for the feedback on the tie rods. it a project for the month of May.

    4. Member Pottery_Pal's Avatar
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      03-30-2012 06:37 PM #4
      here's my post for the final reply on my hybrid swap.

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...4#post76589694

    5. Member xtremevdub's Avatar
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      03-31-2012 02:14 AM #5
      To remove the inner tie rods you need a 30mm wrench IRC and the help of many Gods.
      Or a special tool designed to do the job that you can rent for free at advance auto parts. I did one side 2 nights ago and I am doing the other side tomorrow or the night after tomorrow. I can post pics of the tool if you want. I did modified it a hair, but it did the job relatively easy and free.
      They also rent the outer tie rod removers, which work pretty well if you have tie rods that you are trying not to destroy.

    6. Member Pottery_Pal's Avatar
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      03-31-2012 09:03 AM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by xtremevdub View Post
      To remove the inner tie rods you need a 30mm wrench IRC and the help of many Gods.
      Or a special tool designed to do the job that you can rent for free at advance auto parts. I did one side 2 nights ago and I am doing the other side tomorrow or the night after tomorrow. I can post pics of the tool if you want. I did modified it a hair, but it did the job relatively easy and free.
      They also rent the outer tie rod removers, which work pretty well if you have tie rods that you are trying not to destroy.

      thanks for the feedback. Please post a pic of the modified tool.

    7. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      03-31-2012 09:29 AM #7
      Just beware there are a couple of different tools and not all carry the one that works for VW. The main reason being that the VW has a ball on the inner and then 2 Flat Sides (or 6 depending on the make of rod). So, you need the tool that has the little U shaped Fork (crows foot) inserts that you slide onto the flats and then the tool that slips over the whole rod and then around that insert.

      The ones that look like a socket on a long tube with no inserts, will not work. You need the one with the inserts like the Lislie. http://...Lislie_tool...

      Here is a good thread that I just came across but it does not show the tool in detail, but eludes to what I described above.

      http://writen4u.hubpages.com/hub/How...fGTINew-Beetle

      Here is another with a different style tool. This tool is not as good as the Lislie that uses the inserts. http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed...ds/tierods.htm

      The Bentley says you can ruin the racks gears by wrenching on it w/o clamping the shaft in a vice and this is true. So, if you have a stubborn one, then you need to either carefully put an adj wrench on the flat of the rack shaft to counter clamp it, or a wrench on the opposite side inner joint to try and break it loose. For final tightening, I like to have a wrench on both sides and crank on them both so that it does not ruin the gears in the rack.

      In short, it can be a fairly simple job, but it can also be a super suck fest if a lot of loctite was used previously (which btw you are suppose to use when you install the new ones). Clean the threads first then use loctite.
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    8. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      03-31-2012 09:38 AM #8
      I should mention that I have done this job many times each with it's own trials and tribulations I never had the right tool for various reasons, but this last time, I actually made my own tool out of a medium sized crescent wrench. I ground it down and welded it up and essentially made an adjustable very large Crows foot. It worked very well actually, but it is easier to rent to the proper tool for free if you local AP store has it

      The other word of caution is that not all inner joints are the same size (32mm). 32mm and 34mm iirc. Some have just 2 flats and some have 6 flats like a nut. The 6 pts are easier to get off because you can usually slip a wrench between the a arm (need to turn the wheel to get the rack and joint in the right spot). With the 2 flat joint, this method will be futile..
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    9. Member Pottery_Pal's Avatar
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      03-31-2012 09:48 AM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by sdezego View Post
      Just beware there are a couple of different tools and not all carry the one that works for VW. The main reason being that the VW has a ball on the inner and then 2 Flat Sides (or 6 depending on the make of rod). So, you need the tool that has the little U shaped Fork (crows foot) inserts that you slide onto the flats and then the tool that slips over the whole rod and then around that insert.

      The ones that look like a socket on a long tube with no inserts, will not work. You need the one with the inserts like the Lislie. http://...Lislie_tool...

      Here is a good thread that I just came across but it does not show the tool in detail, but eludes to what I described above.

      http://writen4u.hubpages.com/hub/How...fGTINew-Beetle

      Here is another with a different style tool. This tool is not as good as the Lislie that uses the inserts. http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed...ds/tierods.htm

      The Bentley says you can ruin the racks gears by wrenching on it w/o clamping the shaft in a vice and this is true. So, if you have a stubborn one, then you need to either carefully put an adj wrench on the flat of the rack shaft to counter clamp it, or a wrench on the opposite side inner joint to try and break it loose. For final tightening, I like to have a wrench on both sides and crank on them both so that it does not ruin the gears in the rack.

      In short, it can be a fairly simple job, but it can also be a super suck fest if a lot of loctite was used previously (which btw you are suppose to use when you install the new ones). Clean the threads first then use loctite.

      This feedback was very helpful!!

    10. Member dag60man's Avatar
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      03-31-2012 09:58 AM #10
      [QUOTE=xtremevdub;76669907]To remove the inner tie rods you need a 30mm wrench IRC and the help of many Gods.
      QUOTE]


    11. Member
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      03-31-2012 11:21 AM #11
      Take your pick. Did many tie rods using either tools. Crow feet or adjustable wrench. I like crow feet much more.

      [IMG][/IMG]

    12. Member randyvr6's Avatar
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      03-31-2012 12:44 PM #12
      Here is what I used on my Jetta. It worked very well.

      http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...set-96558.html

      I might just consider replacing the outer tie rods however. I replaced the rack boots one time on my Corrado, and it was very frustrating to get the clamps installed etc. Even if the outer tie rod ends are "frozen", you are still going to need to get them off to replace them. I would use a propane torch with Mapp gas along with a good penetrant like Kroil.
      Last edited by randyvr6; 03-31-2012 at 12:50 PM.

    13. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      03-31-2012 04:40 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by chc-rado View Post
      Take your pick. Did many tie rods using either tools. Crow feet or adjustable wrench. I like crow feet much more.
      That Crows foot is nice, however, a lot of the replacements only have 2 flat sides and it would not work. Also with the 2 sided inner, you are not going to get it with an adj or a wrench.

      That Harbor Freight tool looks right on time along with the Lislie tool I posted above.
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    14. Member xtremevdub's Avatar
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      03-31-2012 05:16 PM #14
      I rented the exact same tool as the show on this thread. http://writen4u.hubpages.com/hub/How...fGTINew-Beetle

      But it didn't really fit the inner tie rod so I grinded it to fit.
      It was still a pain in the ass. I did not use loctite, so I failed.
      Gonna do it on my day off on Monday.
      Putting those Damn boots on is a nightmare as you need to line up the tubes on the rack to the hole in the boots.

    15. Member
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      03-31-2012 07:45 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by sdezego View Post
      That Crows foot is nice, however, a lot of the replacements only have 2 flat sides and it would not work. Also with the 2 sided inner, you are not going to get it with an adj or a wrench.

      That Harbor Freight tool looks right on time along with the Lislie tool I posted above.
      That just one of them. I have 6 points too. Hazel make good product too. I use adjustable wrench, it works, just need extra leverage. It can be done, you need turn the steering wheel to lock position (left or right). You should have enough room to slide the wrench or socket to break it loose. As far putting the clamps on, push it other way in, use little bit of sealant( rtv) and use long snipper(dikes) to crimp the clamps. Yes, it much easier on a lift, your knees don't get dirty

    16. Member Pottery_Pal's Avatar
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      04-12-2012 08:00 PM #16
      Fellow members,

      I started this project and lifted the front end, placed it on stands and removed the front tires. Upon closer inspection I see some clear problems: The first set of pics are from the left side of the vehicle (driver).

      The control arm busing looks like rubber stuff is coming out of it?





      The tie rod boot is completely split in half:





      And the ball joint look wet on the outboard side. Not sure if that is good or bad?:





      On the right side (passenger) it look the control arm bushing is completely intact no visible issues, ball joint look normal and tie rod end looks ok too.










      I have to tear into this and wanted some feedback before I get started.


      WRDUSA seems to have the best deal for the parts I need. But I also like to buy from GAP too.




    17. Member vdubCorrado's Avatar
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      04-12-2012 08:12 PM #17
      Just this week there was a vendor in here selling ball joint and tie rod end kits cheap $69 and $75 depending on G60 or VR.

      Will confirm, replacement tie rods only have 2 flat spots. Luckily my bay was empty when I did the manual steering conversion on red rado. I bet its a damn nightmare when an engine and trans in.place

    18. Member Pottery_Pal's Avatar
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      04-13-2012 08:12 PM #18
      Well got it all apart and I was able to remove the tie rod ends. But I found bad ball joints, control arm bushings and stabilizer bar has seen better days. Of course I busted the stabilizer links taking it apart. I like breaking shizz!

      Anyway, things a looking up. I'll be buying parts this weekend and putting it back together soon.



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