#1
I cant seem to find a solid answer on what n75 valve to go with. im getting some surging at part throttle so im going to see if you guys had any luck with a particular version. The motor is an 2003 AWP with a unitronic stage 2 flash, forge splitter valve, tip, 3" tbe, bigger smic and upgraded piping. So far i'm leaning towards the "J" valve. Or should i go with a MBC? Any response appreciated.
#2
#3
Wondering the same exact thing with the same set up! input anyone?![]()
Schaeffer's Advantage
#4
the stock one. n75fgermanautoparts.com has them for a decent price
My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESSPAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*
#5
I had the best results using a J-valve with some minor wastegate adjustment. This cured all my 5&6th gear surging. Ultimately I ended up going MBC eventually.
GTi 337 Edition ~ 322WHP 270WTQ
{PPT T3/T4 50 TRIM .63 Haldex Kit - Eurodyne Maestro - 630cc Injectors - IE Rods - AEB Head w/ VVT - CAT Cam Gear - Walbro Inline - Audi S3 Gearbox - Peloquin Diff - SouthBend STGIII Clutch - .:R32 LCA's/Spindles/Rack - Ksport Audi TT Coilovers - 25mm R32 FSB - 28mm RSB - Porsche BBK - Eurojet FMIC - FSI Coils - 2 Stage Boostvalve - HKS SSQV }
#6
#7
Hey I have a "K" N75 valve when my stock F took a dump. works great, a little aggressive but its rock solid. keeps boost in check. part # 034-906-283-K
I also have a 2003 AWP but only a stage 1+ unitronic tune.
Please Read Your Owners Manual.
03 Jetta Wolfsburg - Unitronic Stage 1+, Forge TIP, Forge 008 DV, N75K Valve, W8 Console, CiM vent boost gauge, Raceland Coils and a couple of miscellaneous things. - SOLD
08 Jetta GLI - Amber club
#9
Well I got the J valve and now I only boost to 10 psi. What's up with that?
#10
PB blast the sh!t out of it, keep spraying it then grab the shaft with a vice grips closest to the diaphragm housing itself this way you don't mess up needed threads, crank on the top nut with a PERFECT FITTING closed end wrench. If it doesn't budge throw some heat at it with a propane torch. Use a smaller flame and heat the nuts only.
In regards to N75's stick with the stock one is the best advice I can give yah.
Are you stock or running software? 10 PSI is a bit high for stock. Get rid of the sh!t J valve as a start and give the wastegate a few turns if you can get it loose.
Last edited by travis_gli; 04-30-2012 at 12:45 PM.
#11
My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESSPAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*
#12
I heard good and bad bout the j valve so I said f#ck it and bought it, my bad.
@travisgli
I'm running unitronic stg2