Interested to see the result. I have the same injectors laying on my work bench home and was wondering if they were digi 1 compatible.
#1
So im running some supercharged buick riveria injectors and they are not firing. I connected my test light to the main plug and it was flashing during cranking, very slight flash but a flash. Anyone tried using these? Anyone using different #30 injectors that work well? Any input would be appreciated.
#2
Interested to see the result. I have the same injectors laying on my work bench home and was wondering if they were digi 1 compatible.
#3
#5
I did a quick search and I found that those injectors are supposed have 14 ohms resistance so they should be fine. The way the injectors fire on a digifant ECU is, they have 12 volts connected to them and the ECU provides the ground path to fire the injectors. Have you measured your voltage at the main injector harness plug? It is fed from the Fuel pump relay - terminal 87. Also check the ECU grounds if the voltage checks out ok. The other possibility is that the injectors had fuel in them and sat for a while and are now gummed up. Or... the ECU is messed up? Was it running before the injector swap?
#6
I have 12 volts at the injector harness. I connected my test light to the harness and it flashed while turning over. It did run before the injector swap....it actually caught fire due to a bad fuel line and toasted about 7 wires plus the injector harness. I repaired the burnt wires and replaced the fuel rail, fpr and injectors. I connected an injector tester to a couple injectors after removing the rail and they still didnt fire. I have a few printouts from my work so im going to test the grounds and voltage in the harness and ecu. I believe you are probably right though....they are probably all gummed up from sitting, I did get them from pull-a-part.
Anybody know of any other injectors that are compatible? I hate running through the uber long list of injectors and specs.
#7
I'm running these: M-9593-B302 (ford part number) Bosch 0 280 150 945 - old gen 1 "Red Tops"
I also have these: M-9535-BB302 (ford part number) Bosch 0 280 155 759 - gen 3 "Skinnies"
I haven't tried the Skinnies yet, but it is said they have better atomization.
#8
Are these only found in supercoupes?
Been doing some research and am finding some candidates, I will further update when I have solid answers.
Thanks Digi...you have been much help here. I never get anyone to post in my threads let alone have something intelligent to say.
#9
I'm not sure which cars run these stock. The injectors you have should work fine - they are the gen 3 version. I would take them and get them tested at a fuel injector shop. If they test ok, then start looking at your wiring, or your ECU. I'm sure you already know but Digi is batch fire , so all injectors fire at the same time - hence only 2 wires on the main harness connector.
#10
update...
Brought the injectors to work and ran some pb through them and tapped on them till they fired. put em back in and truck runs good. Thanks for all the help!
BTW.... stock g60, 68mm pulley, 3.5 bar fpr #30 injectors. 14psi so far. no chip no cam
*EDIT* Fixed a few boost leaks and am now getting 18psi at redline.
Last edited by vr2jetta; 06-09-2012 at 12:31 PM. Reason: Information added
#11
As long as your O2 sensor is working properly it will run fine(closed loop), but.... when the O2 fails to work properly, you are going to be running way too rich. Even withhout the 3.5 bar FPR, it would run rich with no O2 sensor. Have you tried running it without the O2 sensor plugged in? When you change injectors, you really should map the chip properly for the new setup. Just because it seems to run fine doesn't mean you won't wash your bores and cause issues down the road.
#12
Very true but that is all I could do at the moment. Cam and chip is next. I have a narrow band installed and it actually reads that it is running a tad lean. I unplugged the fpr and it helped a bit. I think the injectors may still be clearing out so I ran some ATF in the fuel tank to help with that. Im gonna drive it easy till it can get all worked into itself.
#13
Can you explain? Do you mean you un-plugged the vacuum/boost reference to the fuel pressure regulator? If so, don't do that unless you are at idle. The vacuum/boost line to the FPR maintains the FPR rated pressure regardless of what boost pressure you are running. This is necessary so the pressure differential across the injectors always remains the same so the injector flow rate remains constant and then only the injector PW is changed to provide the correct fueling. If you disconnect the vacuum/Boost line, as boost pressure rises, the pressure differential across the injectors drops causing the car to run lean.
eg.
3 bar FPR vacuum/Boost line connected, car running 1.5 bar boost => Fuel pressure in rail = 4.5 bar
pressure across the injectors is: 4.5 bar - 1.5 bar = 3 bar
3 bar FPR no vacuum/Boost line, car running 1.5 bar boost => Fuel pressure in rail = 3.0 bar
pressure across the injectors is: 3.0 bar - 1.5 bar = 1.5 bar
if the flow rate of the injectors is 30#/hr at 3 bar, they are reduced to 21.2#/hr when running 1.5bar
#14
Yes, I unplugged the vacuum/boost line. I plugged it back in and ran it for a bit. I believe the injectors are cleaning out because its starting to run richer. Still a bit leaner than stock but those readings are coming from a narrow band, not a wide band so who knows how accurate that is. other than that its running real well.
#15
Tradition is the art of making the same mistake repeatedly, on purpose.
FS:MkI low back front seat upholstery(new)
FS:Sunroof Deflector
#16
why have you put in much more fuel in a stock engine?
Right now you are putting in 29% more fuel than you need, for what? Only to have less power![]()
#17
#18
#19
STFU, worry about your own $hit unless you have some useful information to share. And just so you know, I am actually running a tad lean.
Let me guess...I'm going to burn a hole in my piston? Well thats my problem....
And for the record, these injectors work wonderfully! Spanked a 78 rabbit with a 1.8t the other day with my uber slow, overfuelled, grenade powered g60 pickup.![]()
#20
Calm down noob
If you are running lean with your setup, something is really wrong with your setup. How old is your fuel pump? What AF do you see on your wide band?
BTW, I have been making G60 chips for 7 years now, and rebuild G60 chargers for 10, so I think I know a thing or two about G60's.....
#21
X2... you should be running extremely rich at idle or regular speed on a stock chip. But.... I think that WOT at 18psi you would run lean even with a 3.5 and 30lb injectors. I bet that even with 42lb injectors you would run lean at WOT while seeing 17+ psi near redline.
I've seen 2 motors blow because of fuel pooling on the piston. I've also seen a motor blow because of a faulty injector and running lean. It's only about $100 to have a set of 4 inectors cleaned and balance tested. Small investment when you think abou the cost to replace a motor.
You can #30 injectors in some Volvos at the junkyard. Can't remember which ones but if you seach the archives you can find out.
#22
0280155831 / 9186340
I just found the rebuilt Volvo set from I lost in the garage. There used on V70 Xc90 S60 S70 C70
12 ohm & Flow 334cc / 3.8bar .. All 6 are going in the classifieds soon. I paid $85 shipped from International-autotechnik in Canada.
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!! odarroɔ ǝht gnitɔepser !! ▀▀▀
#23
#24
| Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |
#25
Meh depends,PSI numbers have slowly come to mean nothing to me. Just because a guy has a high boost numbers doesn't mean the car is making a lot of power. If the timing belt slipped one tooth, you would all of sudden see a +3 psi spike, if the intake valves have build up on top (seen this on 8v's lots) that reduces your head flow and shows up as more psi on the gauge.
A heavily ported cylinder head and large cam 268-272 will show a lower boost numbers on the gauge then a stock engine on the same pulley/charger. But require a more fuel at said boost numbers.
I run some Volvo pinks, they are basically an OEM G60 replacement. But newer EV6 style, direct swap, and they work extremely well with my SNS chip and 3.5 FPR.
Look like this
![]()
| Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |
#27
Has anybody run stock 1.8t injectors? Would they even fit, or work? Curious because I have a pair laying around in the garage.
#28
Sorry, but your thoughts about fueling your engine is that of a beginner......
Get a set of fpr's, chips and injectors to suit your setup before you blow it up. I have been mapping enough of these digifant engines in the last 10 years to know......
early ones should fit. I tried them in 2000 in my G40, but the clips that secure them to the fuel rail wasn't fitting. Might have to use G60 clips. From memory they are 256 cc, give or take, about the same as OEM G60 greens
#29
I was hoping to use my injectors from my 2003, iirc they should be 317cc