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Thread: Is it possible to get rid of engine vibration?

  1. 04-03-2012 05:24 PM #1
    I am trying to achieve this in my VR6 Corrado, but nothing seems to work. OE motor mounts still seem to transfer vibration from the engine to the cabin, especially at start up, and anything more rigid is likely to make it worse. Is it possible to isolate the engine from the cabin in these cars or is that just the way they are?

  2. Member Rhino74's Avatar
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    04-03-2012 06:01 PM #2
    Sounds like a problem with your engine rather than the way it is mounted to me. Vr6's are well known for being a really smooth engine. I've got poly mounts in my car and it hardly vibrates.
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    04-03-2012 07:07 PM #3
    You can dampen vibrations by installing more sound insulation on the firewall and footwells.

    As to eliminating it all together, I doubt it, as at the end of the day they are 20yr old cars with 20yr old technology. They just had not achieved the levels of sound and NVH newer cars have.
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    04-03-2012 07:29 PM #4
    Turn the car on with a jack carefully placed on our oil pan and slowly lift the motor and see if the vibration stops. You can do the same in different locations to isolate proble
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    04-03-2012 08:06 PM #5
    i guess it's not normal to like mounts so stiff that you can see your unoccupied passenger seat shaking about 2.5" from stiff mounts.

  6. 04-03-2012 10:17 PM #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Rhino74 View Post
    Sounds like a problem with your engine rather than the way it is mounted to me. Vr6's are well known for being a really smooth engine. I've got poly mounts in my car and it hardly vibrates.
    Could be. It seemed to get worse when the chains and head gasket were replaced but its hard to say for sure. I guess the flywheel could be out of balance, but other than that, I don't know what would make the engine vibrate.

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    04-03-2012 10:22 PM #7
    Flywheel is plausible if it was not properly torqued, I've seen this on other vr6's. You can feel it slightly in the gas pedal as you accelerate
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  8. Member petethepug's Avatar
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    04-04-2012 02:07 AM #8
    Ya know that little $2.50 clutch alignment tool you get with your clutch kit ....
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    04-04-2012 12:49 PM #9
    Mine sounds like a diesel, feels like one too I kinda like it but maybe I have just shut off my corrado-is-hurting spidy sences
    In a few years, It's gonna explode.

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    04-04-2012 01:03 PM #10
    I installed polybushes last year... did realize that it was going to vibrate! But it didnt!
    Not more than before.. maybe bad bushes but what do I know.

    Does the engine runs smooth is the main question..

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    04-04-2012 04:08 PM #11
    I thought all bush was bad........

    You could try fabbing up and using mk4 style mounts
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  12. 04-04-2012 05:06 PM #12
    Quote Originally Posted by petethepug View Post
    Ya know that little $2.50 clutch alignment tool you get with your clutch kit ....
    Can you get the clutch on without it? I didn't think it was possible to put it on wrong. Either you installed it with the alignment tool or it wouldn't assemble. Am I incorrect?

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    04-04-2012 07:29 PM #13
    If the floor jack didn't reduce the vibration, most likely it's not the mounts. As far as the clutch, if put it in backward, it would make noise and will not work properly( at all) If you got transmission bolted to the engine, then clutch is align to the input shaft.

    Here are few things to check, back to basic. Last tune up, spark plug wires condition, check compression, cap and rotor, if its a dist vr6. Last time fuel filter replaced. Good grounds and power wires, check charging system. Sometime sensors, especially ECT sensor could be funky, or dead 02 sensor, last time you clean the t-body and idle control valve. Make sure the egr working properly and egr pipe is not clogged. Lastly aged injectors can cause rough idle. You can clean them or rebuild them if you can't buy new injectors. How does the engine idle and perform. Lastly check if there any faults store in ECM.

  14. Member Houpty GT's Avatar
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    04-04-2012 09:00 PM #14
    Also check your exhaust hanger donuts. Make sure the exhaust does not touch the body anywhere.

  15. 04-09-2012 10:12 PM #15
    Quote Originally Posted by chc-rado View Post
    If the floor jack didn't reduce the vibration, most likely it's not the mounts. As far as the clutch, if put it in backward, it would make noise and will not work properly( at all) If you got transmission bolted to the engine, then clutch is align to the input shaft.

    Here are few things to check, back to basic. Last tune up, spark plug wires condition, check compression, cap and rotor, if its a dist vr6. Last time fuel filter replaced. Good grounds and power wires, check charging system. Sometime sensors, especially ECT sensor could be funky, or dead 02 sensor, last time you clean the t-body and idle control valve. Make sure the egr working properly and egr pipe is not clogged. Lastly aged injectors can cause rough idle. You can clean them or rebuild them if you can't buy new injectors. How does the engine idle and perform. Lastly check if there any faults store in ECM.
    I think you are right. I don't think its the mounts, I think its the engine. I will give it a tune up, but it had one only 20k or so ago, and the sensors are all new. No codes ever get thrown. I will check the EGR and the injectors.

    The problem occurred after the chains/clutch/HG was done. It idles like it has big cams but they are stock, where it used to idle smooth as butter. It seems to be loping, and the timing of the sound of the exhaust isn't consistent, like its slightly stumbling, but not too noticeable. Is there a relatively easy way to check the cam and distributor timing to be sure its dead on without a complete disassembly? If the cam timing is off what would the typical symptoms be?

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    04-10-2012 01:26 AM #16
    Quote Originally Posted by petethepug View Post
    Ya know that little $2.50 clutch alignment tool you get with your clutch kit ....
    Clearly you don't know what that tool is for.


    Op, you are probably a bit off on timing. Pull the upper chain cover, center the crank pulley on the notch and see where your at. Cam tool should slide right in w/ all chain slack at the rear.

  17. 04-10-2012 08:36 PM #17
    Quote Originally Posted by a_riot View Post
    I think you are right. I don't think its the mounts, I think its the engine. I will give it a tune up, but it had one only 20k or so ago, and the sensors are all new. No codes ever get thrown. I will check the EGR and the injectors.
    There are other reasons that a fault code will show besides bad sensor, including bad grounds, dirty or loose connections. There are three ground points at the back of the cylinder head that may have been compromised when the head was removed. After all these wires are getting old and therefore crack easily. If it were me I'd check for vacuum leaks first. It is easy to do with a gauge like the MityVac hand pump. Just plug it into one of the braided vacuum hoses coming from the intake manifold and start it up. It should read 18-22 inches of vacuum.

  18. 04-13-2012 02:41 AM #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Ttrawin View Post
    There are other reasons that a fault code will show besides bad sensor, including bad grounds, dirty or loose connections. There are three ground points at the back of the cylinder head that may have been compromised when the head was removed. After all these wires are getting old and therefore crack easily. If it were me I'd check for vacuum leaks first. It is easy to do with a gauge like the MityVac hand pump. Just plug it into one of the braided vacuum hoses coming from the intake manifold and start it up. It should read 18-22 inches of vacuum.
    I will check the timing as suggested and for vacuum leaks. It does seem like it could be a vacuum leak, but I replaced all the vacuum hoses, and do so quite regularly as they are prone to leaking even when they look good. Good point about the grounds, I will replace them too.

  19. 04-13-2012 03:40 AM #19
    You can do the same in different locations to isolate proble

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