So I got a pic sent to my phone from my buddies shop..
Kinda scary having someone else open her up, but it's getting done
Trying to figure out what's the best way to finish up stage one of this project. Since I'm planning for an e85 tune, I need some monster injectors and a high flow pump. I'm leaning towards a set of Bosch ev14 series. My plan (if it's even possible) is to buy my pump and injectors over the next few months. I'm hoping I can add the injectors and pump, and run my apr93 tune until I can make room in the budget for a Maestro tune. Any help or suggestions on this would be helpful and appreciated.
The way I'd do it in my own car is using 630cc at 4bar and an inline filter. I get less than 80% IDC with 630cc injectors at 3bar on an inline Bosh 044 pump (33-34 psi in the midrange). Adding one bar of fuel pressure will supply enough fuel for the F23 with some head room. Unisettings is free and a VCDS can even be borrowed to make the tweaks. Several guys (including myself) have been successfully running on corn this way, and we have the settings needed pretty much ironed out. It may not be a good idea for a noob to attempt this but you have enough technical knowledge and support to make it happen.
Last edited by warranty225cpe; 05-08-2012 at 08:56 PM.
The picture of your valve cover removed reveals a lack of maintenance, the head shouldnt be such a dark color brown. Have your installer remove the oil pump pickup tube, backlight it, and check for clogging of the screen. Cooked oil may be clogging the oil feed line to turbo, causing it to fail. The oil feed supplied with the F23 didnt fit with the cast manifold, for me and many others. So if your installer cant get it to fit, just order a new oem line.
What I run in abundance, and advocate for is spring rate (wastegate actuator) that is proportional to the amount of boost that you're running. The OEM actuator was designed to work around stockish boost and honestly works well within these parameters. However, once you start adding considerate boost to what it was engineered for, you introduce wastegate flap creep. The flap creep is an undesirable condition that results from the pressure on the hot side exceeding the spring rate in the actuator, and forcing the flap to open/bypass (wasting energy at WOT that could be used to create boost on the cold side).
Preload is an entirely different thing that some people in the community mistakenly think is the same as adding spring rate to the actuator. Preloading, although it somewhat increase the actuator spring rate in a non-linear fashion, is a terribly bad idea that I always advise against. Eric, on top of having an uprated actuator, played with the preload which likely killed his turbo. Preloading is bad because it considerably reduce the amount of travel on the wastegate flap. With reduced travel (less volume bypassed) EGT goes through the roof on an already hot running turbo as the K03/K04 we have. In my cars, I never crank the preload because I know what it does (I learned the hard way over a decade ago on my Eclipse that the increased EGT from preloading the actuator is a bad and costly thing).
Last edited by Marcus_Aurelius; 05-09-2012 at 01:33 PM.
Exactly, the reduced travel, not the higher/later opening point (boost level wise) is why it's bad. Eric had both, so not sure if it contributed or not. I would "preload" the internal WG on my T25 GT3076 a LONG time ago, but by "preload" I mean adjust the actuator to be as stiff as possible where I'd have to stretch it out to get it onto the flapper post. No additional springs were used.
Was real synthetic oil used, like castrol syntec or mobil 1, or the fake stuff that's just refined regular motor oil like from pennzoil and quaker state? Did you do your services on time as well, made sure to never go past the 10k interval or 1 yr mark before oil changes?
Royal Purple? Seems a little overkill for oil, but its good stuff. I've read an article comparing different oils on how well they protect against wear, using a special machine that tests oil protection by applying high pressure to a bearing race in an oil bath. Royal Purple and Red Line blew away the competition, none of the other brands could even come close to their protection. Previous owner of your car may not have cared so much about maintenance and did services whenever they felt like, if ever.
I replaced the oil pump pickup tube on my car @ 124k miles as a just because. It didnt need it, engine block, crank, and rods were still the color of cast iron. But had the oil pan off and replaced it anyways, better safe than sorry. Replaced the pickup the week before I installed my F23.