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    Thread: Bierce IV's Thread.

    1. Member Markg813's Avatar
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      Platinum Grey GLI on jackstands / 2004 Jetta TDI on CCW's
      05-05-2012 08:14 PM #26
      Will the ecs wheel centering plates work with bags?
      These are more for static cars.... go with IDF Drop Plates

    2. Member tmg1991's Avatar
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      05-05-2012 08:17 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by Markg813 View Post
      These are more for static cars.... go with IDF Drop Plates
      What mark said. And plus the ecs ones look super sketch compared to the idf drop plates
      Instagram: trevorgrimes

    3. Member vjg1215's Avatar
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      05-05-2012 10:40 PM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by tmg1991 View Post
      What mark said. And plus the ecs ones look super sketch compared to the idf drop plates
      What Trevor said.

    4. Member Bierce IV's Avatar
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      05-06-2012 12:47 PM #29
      Yeah I was looking at those, but quick question. Does it matter of both compressors are hooked unto the same side of the tank, or do they have to be on the opposite? Im trying to get the false floor done today
      Quote Originally Posted by mk4boost View Post
      If you don't want to break the bank you have the wrong hobby
      Detailing/Paint Specialist Arete Auto Salon Detailing
      Mark IV Thread
      R32 Thread

    5. Member tmg1991's Avatar
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      05-06-2012 01:18 PM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by Bierce IV View Post
      Yeah I was looking at those, but quick question. Does it matter of both compressors are hooked unto the same side of the tank, or do they have to be on the opposite? Im trying to get the false floor done today
      it doesnt matter. but i feel like it wouldnt fill up as fast as it should going through one line into the tank

    6. Member Bierce IV's Avatar
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      05-06-2012 02:03 PM #31
      no im running 2 lines and watertraps, i meant like as in if both lines ran into the ports next to eachother on the left side of the tank instead of both ends
      Quote Originally Posted by mk4boost View Post
      If you don't want to break the bank you have the wrong hobby
      Detailing/Paint Specialist Arete Auto Salon Detailing
      Mark IV Thread
      R32 Thread

    7. Member Bierce IV's Avatar
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      05-06-2012 05:23 PM #32
      Just a rough idea i worked on, still gotta add some more wood. haha

      IMG_0841 by Bierce IV, on Flickr
      Quote Originally Posted by mk4boost View Post
      If you don't want to break the bank you have the wrong hobby
      Detailing/Paint Specialist Arete Auto Salon Detailing
      Mark IV Thread
      R32 Thread

    8. Member tmg1991's Avatar
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      05-06-2012 05:59 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by Bierce IV View Post
      no im running 2 lines and watertraps, i meant like as in if both lines ran into the ports next to eachother on the left side of the tank instead of both ends
      Oh yeah that's fine!
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    9. Member Bierce IV's Avatar
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      05-15-2012 10:31 PM #34
      Long story short, got it all in, Still couldnt get the damn strut seated in the knuckle. Drove off a 4x6 nothing moved, so i backed it up and the strut spun and this happened.


      IMG_0867 by Bierce IV, on Flickr

      Whose got ideas to get those in WITHOUT grinding the protective coating out.
      Quote Originally Posted by mk4boost View Post
      If you don't want to break the bank you have the wrong hobby
      Detailing/Paint Specialist Arete Auto Salon Detailing
      Mark IV Thread
      R32 Thread

    10. Member MechEngg's Avatar
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      05-16-2012 12:19 AM #35
      Sorry can't quite tell what happened, did your tire peel off your rim?

      And you put the car down with the strut halfway in the spindle?? If so you are crazy/stupid, sorry to say. The weight of the car will cause the strut to bind and will actually prevent it from sliding down into the spindle.

      My suggestion still stands, 3/4" COLD chisel pounded in 90% of the way, lube, jack under car

      Cold chisel:

    11. Member Niagara_V_Dub's Avatar
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      hoopty on air
      05-16-2012 12:30 AM #36
      I basically got a screw driver that was close to 7mm across the bit, then got some spare change and put a nickel between gap and the screw driver and held it in place as best as possible while turning the screw driver. The lower in the spindle you can get it then the more it should open.

      Then I used more lube than a porn set on the strut.

      I got it as deep as possible then got frustrated when it hung up and grabbed the brake disk and shook the jesus out of it and it started to slowly slip in more. Fast forward to more semi-violent shaking and it was fully seated.

      None of that is really the proper way, but hell it worked.
      Insert witty quote

    12. Member Bierce IV's Avatar
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      05-16-2012 06:32 PM #37
      Pulled the fronts back out to notice the powdercoat peeled off but i said F it. used the 3/4" cold chisel and they slid right in. I got the wheels where i want. And i will have pictures up soon after i buff it at work. Thanks for all the help guys. But, only run compressor is hooked up right now and i really want that second. do i have to run another power wire up?
      Quote Originally Posted by mk4boost View Post
      If you don't want to break the bank you have the wrong hobby
      Detailing/Paint Specialist Arete Auto Salon Detailing
      Mark IV Thread
      R32 Thread

    13. Member tmg1991's Avatar
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      05-16-2012 06:43 PM #38
      I had to do the same thing. I even grounded the powder coat off cause I couldnt get it in. So when i got it in. Just sprayed a crap load of primer over it so hopefully it'll protect it. And it took me like 4 hours to get the drive side in lol. It was awful. Glad you got it worked out.
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    14. Member Twilliams83's Avatar
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      05-16-2012 07:28 PM #39
      Quote Originally Posted by Bierce IV View Post
      Pulled the fronts back out to notice the powdercoat peeled off but i said F it. used the 3/4" cold chisel and they slid right in. I got the wheels where i want. And i will have pictures up soon after i buff it at work. Thanks for all the help guys. But, only run compressor is hooked up right now and i really want that second. do i have to run another power wire up?
      For your compressors you only use one power wire. On bagriders website under tech they have a really good diagram. I would post it bu im on my phone.
      ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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    15. Member Markg813's Avatar
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      05-16-2012 07:49 PM #40
      I used a flap wheel to take off a couple inches of paint of the bottom of the struts for an easier install, then i spread some anti seize around the areas i took the paint off the struts so it doesn't seize up.

      You should definately invest in a strut spreader tool. My struts dropped right in without any problems using it!


    16. Member tmg1991's Avatar
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      05-16-2012 08:05 PM #41
      Quote Originally Posted by Markg813 View Post
      I used a flap wheel to take off a couple inches of paint of the bottom of the struts for an easier install, then i spread some anti seize around the areas i took the paint off the struts so it doesn't seize up.

      You should definately invest in a strut spreader tool. My struts dropped right in without any problems using it!

      You took off a couple inches of paint? Lol. You also left by myself to do the driver side
      Instagram: trevorgrimes

    17. Member Bierce IV's Avatar
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      05-16-2012 10:03 PM #42
      sway bar still in, no notch and the fenders are getting in the way. But heres some iphone shots. Legit shots coming soon.
      If you ask me the fitment is x100000 better than the static from the prev page.
      Yes the first shot is with the rear up in the air, i hope this will be the end result when i get the notch. (with new buumper and lip i have of course.)

      IMG_0870 by Bierce IV, on Flickr


      IMG_0877 by Bierce IV, on Flickr


      IMG_0875 by Bierce IV, on Flickr


      IMG_0874 by Bierce IV, on Flickr

      before you say it, i know. It needs more low and new headlights.
      Quote Originally Posted by mk4boost View Post
      If you don't want to break the bank you have the wrong hobby
      Detailing/Paint Specialist Arete Auto Salon Detailing
      Mark IV Thread
      R32 Thread

    18. Member Bierce IV's Avatar
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      05-16-2012 10:18 PM #43
      said tire

      IMG_0868 by Bierce IV, on Flickr
      Quote Originally Posted by mk4boost View Post
      If you don't want to break the bank you have the wrong hobby
      Detailing/Paint Specialist Arete Auto Salon Detailing
      Mark IV Thread
      R32 Thread

    19. Member Niagara_V_Dub's Avatar
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      hoopty on air
      05-16-2012 10:27 PM #44
      how the balls did the tire do that?
      Insert witty quote

    20. Member Bierce IV's Avatar
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      05-16-2012 10:32 PM #45
      long story short, strut spun and the prong that holds the lines ripped a circle in the tire. At least the explosion wasnt an airline or bag
      Quote Originally Posted by mk4boost View Post
      If you don't want to break the bank you have the wrong hobby
      Detailing/Paint Specialist Arete Auto Salon Detailing
      Mark IV Thread
      R32 Thread

    21. Member DGK_KGD's Avatar
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      05-16-2012 11:19 PM #46
      Quote Originally Posted by Bierce IV View Post
      long story short, strut spun and the prong that holds the lines ripped a circle in the tire. At least the explosion wasnt an airline or bag
      crazy !

      looks great btw!

      9 more days till i install mine! the Alaska build
      Quote Originally Posted by scirockalot8v View Post
      Plastidip the world.

    22. Member Bierce IV's Avatar
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      05-16-2012 11:33 PM #47
      Quote Originally Posted by DGK_KGD View Post
      crazy !

      looks great btw!

      9 more days till i install mine! the Alaska build
      actually, may be moving there one day for geology.
      But whats your guys secrets for quiting down the compressors? I was thinking or wraping the **** outta the floor in that (i forgot the name of dampening stuff but i know what it is) stuff.
      Quote Originally Posted by mk4boost View Post
      If you don't want to break the bank you have the wrong hobby
      Detailing/Paint Specialist Arete Auto Salon Detailing
      Mark IV Thread
      R32 Thread

    23. Member DGK_KGD's Avatar
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      05-17-2012 12:01 AM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by Bierce IV View Post
      actually, may be moving there one day for geology.
      But whats your guys secrets for quiting down the compressors? I was thinking or wraping the **** outta the floor in that (i forgot the name of dampening stuff but i know what it is) stuff.
      I will be moving out of here in T minus 2 2/3 years As far as the quieting the compressors i would say line your floor in this http://www.dynamatstore.com/, then again i do not know what they actually sound like I have to stare at them for another 9 days till the install
      Quote Originally Posted by scirockalot8v View Post
      Plastidip the world.

    24. Member Niagara_V_Dub's Avatar
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      hoopty on air
      05-17-2012 12:10 AM #49
      from everything that I've heard, its more in the mounting of the compressor than the dampening on the panels around it.
      Insert witty quote

    25. Member MechEngg's Avatar
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      05-17-2012 12:22 AM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by Niagara_V_Dub View Post
      from everything that I've heard, its more in the mounting of the compressor than the dampening on the panels around it.
      Actual a combination of the two plus 1!

      1 - I built a vibration isolating frame to limit the vibrations that are transferred from the compressors to the sheet metal.
      2 - Dynamat (or similar stuff like b-quiet ultimate, 1/3 the price) for absorbing any vibrations that actually do get transferred to the sheet metal. Sheet metal has the tenancy to make a horrible racket when it vibrates at high frequencies so limit is as much as possible to get the least airborne sound possible
      3 - Now you need to control the airborne sound waves that come from the sheet metal and compressors themselves. Use a closed cell foam and lead vinyl matt combination for best results, can be found at b-quiet.com as well.

      Plans:


      Isolation frame and rubber dampers:


      Vibration damper:


      Airborne sound dampener beneath the rear deck:


      Airborne sound dampener on the bottom of the false floor:



      Finished product:

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