These are more for static cars.... go with IDF Drop PlatesWill the ecs wheel centering plates work with bags?
Yeah I was looking at those, but quick question. Does it matter of both compressors are hooked unto the same side of the tank, or do they have to be on the opposite? Im trying to get the false floor done today
no im running 2 lines and watertraps, i meant like as in if both lines ran into the ports next to eachother on the left side of the tank instead of both ends
Sorry can't quite tell what happened, did your tire peel off your rim?
And you put the car down with the strut halfway in the spindle?? If so you are crazy/stupid, sorry to say. The weight of the car will cause the strut to bind and will actually prevent it from sliding down into the spindle.
My suggestion still stands, 3/4" COLD chisel pounded in 90% of the way, lube, jack under car
I basically got a screw driver that was close to 7mm across the bit, then got some spare change and put a nickel between gap and the screw driver and held it in place as best as possible while turning the screw driver. The lower in the spindle you can get it then the more it should open.
Then I used more lube than a porn set on the strut.
I got it as deep as possible then got frustrated when it hung up and grabbed the brake disk and shook the jesus out of it and it started to slowly slip in more. Fast forward to more semi-violent shaking and it was fully seated.
None of that is really the proper way, but hell it worked.
Insert witty quote
Pulled the fronts back out to notice the powdercoat peeled off but i said F it. used the 3/4" cold chisel and they slid right in. I got the wheels where i want. And i will have pictures up soon after i buff it at work. Thanks for all the help guys. But, only run compressor is hooked up right now and i really want that second. do i have to run another power wire up?
I had to do the same thing. I even grounded the powder coat off cause I couldnt get it in. So when i got it in. Just sprayed a crap load of primer over it so hopefully it'll protect it. And it took me like 4 hours to get the drive side in lol. It was awful. Glad you got it worked out.
I used a flap wheel to take off a couple inches of paint of the bottom of the struts for an easier install, then i spread some anti seize around the areas i took the paint off the struts so it doesn't seize up.
You should definately invest in a strut spreader tool. My struts dropped right in without any problems using it!
sway bar still in, no notch and the fenders are getting in the way. But heres some iphone shots. Legit shots coming soon.
If you ask me the fitment is x100000 better than the static from the prev page.
Yes the first shot is with the rear up in the air, i hope this will be the end result when i get the notch. (with new buumper and lip i have of course.)
IMG_0870 by Bierce IV, on Flickr
IMG_0877 by Bierce IV, on Flickr
IMG_0875 by Bierce IV, on Flickr
IMG_0874 by Bierce IV, on Flickr
before you say it, i know. It needs more low and new headlights.
http://www.dynamatstore.com/, then again i do not know what they actually sound like I have to stare at them for another 9 days till the install
1 - I built a vibration isolating frame to limit the vibrations that are transferred from the compressors to the sheet metal.
2 - Dynamat (or similar stuff like b-quiet ultimate, 1/3 the price) for absorbing any vibrations that actually do get transferred to the sheet metal. Sheet metal has the tenancy to make a horrible racket when it vibrates at high frequencies so limit is as much as possible to get the least airborne sound possible
3 - Now you need to control the airborne sound waves that come from the sheet metal and compressors themselves. Use a closed cell foam and lead vinyl matt combination for best results, can be found at b-quiet.com as well.
Isolation frame and rubber dampers:
Airborne sound dampener beneath the rear deck:
Airborne sound dampener on the bottom of the false floor: