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Thread: No start, O2 sensor?

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  1. Junior Member
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    04-07-2012 07:52 PM #1
    I have a 1988 Cabriolet 8v CIS. As stated above. I am getting spark. Fuel to my filter. Replaced my fuel distributor from a running car and had my injectors professionally cleaned. Everything is hooked back up and still no start. Could it be my o2 sensor? Injector seats? Any help is appreciated.


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    04-07-2012 07:57 PM #2
    Are you getting fuel to the injectors? Try pulling one out and see if any fuel comes out. Is the car popping or firing at all? Check your timing.
    dink and flicka


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    04-07-2012 08:55 PM #4
    Quick question. I took my injector lines leaving the fuel distributor off. Should fuel spray out of the banjo bolts when I turn it over?


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  4. Member
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    04-07-2012 09:20 PM #5
    [QUOTE=MattPlante;76792010]Quick question. I took my injector lines leaving the fuel distributor off. Should fuel spray out of the banjo bolts when I turn it over?


    Im confused by this.^^^

    http://reflectionsandshadows.com/cis-injector-cleaning/
    This is a fantastic link if you scroll down to the 6th picture read up on that.

    -Swap out your relay(like in the link above)
    -Pop out an injector (or just unscrew one of the lines if you dont have the puller)
    -Turn the key on... pump should stay running
    -Lift up on the throttle plate

    fuel should spray then
    Last edited by hyperlightboards48; 04-07-2012 at 09:34 PM.
    dink and flicka

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    04-08-2012 02:38 AM #6
    I will try that in the morning. Thank you. Apologies for the lack of grammar. I was a bit frustrated. Haven't driven it in over 5 months.

    Some history. Bought the car. It is my first volkswagen. Ran great for a few months and developed a lag, so I put GumOut fuel system cleaner in it. It flushed 22 years of gunk into my injectors (I theorized. Complete loss of power) . I accidentally ran it out of gas. Replaced both fuel pumps. New radiator (old one blew its top, it got a little hot, but not too hot) had my injectors cleaned by a local place called Deatchwerks, that specializes in high flow fuel components. The guy said that he got them as good as he could. That they all had clean patterns, but all sprayed different quantities. Bought new seals and put them in. New fuel filter.

    Then I deleted my A/C. I figured the simpler the motor, the fewer the problems. Delete went great.

    I still could not get it running. I took the banjo bolt off of the fuel distributor and turned the motor over. I have great fuel pressure to that point. Removed my injectors. No fuel came out. Then I removed the lines that tie the fuel distributor to the injectors. No fuel out of the banjo bolts on top. Bought a fuel distributor from a part-out of a running cabby. Installed it. Still no fuel from the top bolts.

    I have new injector seats. Installing them tomorrow as well. I just noticed , also, that the hat of injector #2 somehow managed to come off during removal of the injectors.

    Any help is greatly appreciated. I am completely new to this and have read post after post and still cannot figure this out.



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    04-08-2012 09:54 AM #7
    Just my .02 but you'll need to jumper out your fuel pump relay so your fuel pumps run while checking things out.....pop the round boot off the air box and take either a strong magnet or pliers to the bolt head (center of the plate) and lift the air flow plate which lowers the plunger inside the fuel dist and let's fuel flow to the injectors (if you're doing this at the injector feed lines on top of the fuel dist then throw a rag over it/them or you're gonna spray gas everywhere or in you're face)........if you're not getting fuel out of the injectors/lines while doing this but yet have "running" fuel pumps and fuel coming from out of the filter then I'd say your fuel dist plunger is gummed up and/or sticking ? Is the electrical connector on the frequency valve (side of airbox) and or the control pressure regulator (front of engine block) connected ???

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    04-10-2012 01:23 PM #8
    Everything is connected. I jumped the relays and every injector sprayed. Double checked my spark plugs. They all fire. Replacing my seats today. Hopefully i will see some improvement. If not, it almost has to be timing. I have fuel and spark, but it my cylinders still are not firing off. Compression test?


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  8. Member kamzcab86's Avatar
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    04-10-2012 03:23 PM #9
    Quote Originally Posted by MattPlante View Post
    Everything is connected. I jumped the relays and every injector sprayed. Double checked my spark plugs. They all fire. Replacing my seats today. Hopefully i will see some improvement. If not, it almost has to be timing. I have fuel and spark, but it my cylinders still are not firing off. Compression test?
    CIS requires three things:
    1) Fuel
    2) Spark
    3) Air

    However, #1 requires the proper quantity. The injectors are spraying, but are they spraying the required minimum amount? Is the cold-start valve working properly? Is the control pressure regulator working properly? Is the thermo-time switch functioning properly?

    Also, #2 requires proper timing.

    If all of the above checks out, that leaves air. As already stated, you want to check the airflow sensor plate to make sure it's not sticking.

    http://www.cabby-info.com/fuel.htm#CIS
    Cabby-Info.com -- Your online guide to the VW Cabriolets
    Old Blue's Blog -- The adventures of a 1990 Westfalia
    "Fashion is a waste of money that could be better spent on, say, maintaining your car." ~James May

  9. Junior Member
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    04-10-2012 04:28 PM #10
    Is there a DIY on testing CPR, TTS, and CSV? Any tips on removing old plastic injector holders. They didn't come out with the brass seats as I hoped they would. I tried removing my intake mani but the bolts are stripped to hell.


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    04-10-2012 04:51 PM #11
    All your links can be answered in the link above.

    but.... if you're feeling lazy

    Injector hats
    On Ron's injector cleaning he talks about using an old coat hanger
    http://reflectionsandshadows.com/cis-injector-cleaning/


    To test the thermo time time switch
    -Let car sit and cool for a couple hours
    -Disconnect the coil lead and ground it
    -Disconnect the csv plug
    -Connect test light to csv plug
    -Have someone turn the car over depending on the coolant temperature the light should stay lit for about 6 second and blink a few times

    WUR
    http://www.landsharkoz.com/images/pdf/wurfix.pdf

    CSV
    -Take out the csv
    -Send 12 volts to it while ignition is on
    -Should spray


    See cabby-info for more accurate and detailed answers
    Last edited by hyperlightboards48; 04-10-2012 at 04:55 PM.
    dink and flicka

  11. Junior Member
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    04-10-2012 05:01 PM #12
    You are a saint. Quite possibly my favorite person today.


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