lets play what is this noise! aba/020 terrible whirling noise when clutch is engaged edition with video!

[((a.v.))mk-1]

heres the vid, lmk what i botched because this set up worked perfectly when i put it in the first time, pulled the engine bc of a spun bearing, re assembled everything and WHAM this noise ensues, dosent engage gears all the way either... what could i of done wrong.... euro spec lw flywheel, "stage two" clutch... 020 trans, aba block

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1O2o...ature=youtu.be

[Broke]

heres the vid, lmk what i botched because this set up worked perfectly when i put it in the first time, pulled the engine bc of a spun bearing, re assembled everything and WHAM this noise ensues, dosent engage gears all the way either... what could i of done wrong.... euro spec lw flywheel, "stage two" clutch... 020 trans, aba block

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1O2o...ature=youtu.be

Is there oil in the trans?
It seems like something on the input shaft, as the noise starts and stops with the input shaft rotation, but then it kind of sounds like it might be something at the clutch parts, like something rubbing but I'm not sure what.

Time to start pulling it apart again... look for any scraping marks around the clutch parts to indicate something hitting when it shouldn't be, then go to the trans. Spin the input shaft over out of gear, feel and listen for any noise in the bearings. Check the oil, look for contamination. If you hear/feel something in the trans on the bench, pop the 5th housing off and have a look, debris almost always gathers in the 5th housing behind the green end cap.

Does it select the gears fully with the engine off?
With the engine running, what does it do when you try to select 1st and take off?

[((a.v.))mk-1]

1) when I take off in first/ reverse clutch only engages ~20%
2) when I popped off green cap to inspect tob there wernt large shavings or that much oil spewing
3) refilled trans fluid to spec beforebre installation.
4) gears are fully engaging with no binding....

Broke, while we're talking.... I have a agb rebuilt 4k ago sitting in my garage.. I use an usrt kit and it looks like if I drill adaptive holes/ put the mk1 mounts on its literally a even swap... Thoughts?

thanks for the help

[Broke]

1) when I take off in first/ reverse clutch only engages ~20%
2) when I popped off green cap to inspect tob there wernt large shavings or that much oil spewing
3) refilled trans fluid to spec beforebre installation.
4) gears are fully engaging with no binding....

Broke, while we're talking.... I have a agb rebuilt 4k ago sitting in my garage.. I use an usrt kit and it looks like if I drill adaptive holes/ put the mk1 mounts on its literally a even swap... Thoughts?

thanks for the help

It's seeming to point to the clutch parts.
The TOB, finger, and pushrod looked OK?
If you pull the trans again, measure the amount of pushrod sticking out when the arm is at rest on the plastic stopper, and then when it is lifted fully. You should have 0-4mm at rest, then 24mm when lifted. If those check out, the trans is OK.
While it is off, spin it over by hand.
The starting/stopping with the input shaft rotation is concerning, but the fact the clutch isn't engaging fully points to a likely issue at the clutch parts.

The cable is pulling the release arm from just under 9:00 to about 10:00? It looked like you had full travel in the video... manual adjust cable or auto-adjust?

As for the AGB, if it doesn't have the 3 studs around the casing for the MK1 mounts, it should have the 3 holes in the casing for them, already threaded to accept them.
Depending on the code you have now, the AGB may require a different clutch disc to fit the input shaft.

[((a.v.))mk-1]

Fly wheel was rubbing apparently ... I did re use the stretch bolts when I put it all in, but torqued to 18 ft lbs... Maybe it did not seat all the way, trans has no binding..

[Broke]

Fly wheel was rubbing apparently ...

I did re use the stretch bolts when I put it all in, but torqued to 18 ft lbs...

The flywheel bolts aren't stretch type (torque to yield), and I don't have a MK3 manual handy, but I believe they are 15 ft-lbs. in the MK2 Bentley.
As long as you know they were installed correctly the last time (in a star pattern to the proper torque) then they are OK to use again.
The pressure plate bolts to the crank are one time use, those are stretch bolts and are torqued to plastic deformation when installed properly, and should not be used again.

Maybe it did not seat all the way, trans has no binding..

I'm not sure what to suggest on the flywheel... if it keeps acting up, go back to a stock unit. That seems to fix most issues in previous threads.

You need a pushrod bushing and seal.
I can see a gap between the pushrod and whatever it is passing through. I don't know if it is a seal or a bushing in the pics... the gap and depth makes it look like just a bushing, but surely there is a seal in there, it's just been shoved in too far.

Dig all that out of there... slide the pushrod out of the trans, fit in a flatblade to hook the inside lip of the seal, and try to lever it out. It's in pretty deep to lever out though, so you'll have to yank on it and fight with it to get it out. Then either tap and pull the bushing, or pop the 5th housing off and knock the bushing out from the back.
Find a piece of 10mm threaded rod, or a M10x1.50 stud, or cut the head from a 10mm bolt... drop that down the input shaft until it hits the back of the bushing, then use a long ratchet extension or something to knock the bushing out.

Drive the new bushing in until it stops. Drive the new seal in JUST past flush with the end of the input shaft.

I have pics and info here http://www.brokevw.com/020seal.html

[((a.v.))mk-1]

Perfect! New seal and bushing will go in Wednesday morning. Thanks for all the help. I'm guessing I just somehow torqued the flywheel in an incorrect pattern or spec as the first install had no problem. I appreciate all you help, when I buy the tap tommarow will it be the same thread pattern for my pp as well? Two of the holes are clearly stripped, (bad metal from said manufacturing supplier Im Guessing) oh well guess that's why oem costs what it does...

[((a.v.))mk-1]

But I can't help but feel slightly baffled why would clutch disengagment move the fly wheel like that?

[Broke]

when I buy the tap tommarow will it be the same thread pattern for my pp as well?

No, the tap will be much larger.

I'm guessing I just somehow torqued the flywheel in an incorrect pattern or spec as the first install had no problem.

Or... it might have something to do with this:

Two of the holes are clearly stripped, (bad metal from said manufacturing supplier Im Guessing) oh well guess that's why oem costs what it does...

Am I to understand that 2 of the bolts that hold the flywheel to the pressure plate are stripped?

But I can't help but feel slightly baffled why would clutch disengagment move the fly wheel like that?

Well, if it is missing bolts, I'd say that would be clue #1.

[((a.v.))mk-1]

Either way.... I appreciate your help

[Broke]

So.... there are 2 flywheel bolts missing?
They aren't in there loose are they?

You're missing over 22% of your flywheel bolts... get a new pressure plate, a Sachs or LUK (OEM), and give that a shot.
Since the bolts were used with the bad PP, and not all of them were used... get 9 new flywheel bolts, along with the 6 new pressure plate bolts.

If it still acts up, get a stock OEM flywheel.

[((a.v.))mk-1]

Any 16v pp will work right? (Oem of course)