as well the fastest 1/4 mile cars in the world are scroll supercharged...
i'm sure i am just biased but there's nothing like a scroll charger, centrifugal chargers are just outright not fun. i sold my G60 Lysholm back when i was 20 biggest regret of my life thus far.
I think we are just mixing up the types of compressors here.
The video above is the Kenne Bell twin screw lysholm.
Pretty sure the above is referring to the scroll AC compressor being similar to the g-lader.
Then you have centrifugal...or basically turbo type blower ran by a belt.
And then of course you have the Eaton egg beater roots design....
Then the newer TVS roots type.
The twin screw lysholm types are the best positive displacement compressors...
TVS is next
Centrifugal such as Vortech, Rotrex....Pro Charger not so great for smaller engines in my opinion. I also wouldn't choose one for larger engines.
Roots Heaton egg beater.... nick name tells the story
as above i guess i was mistaken, i'm not a heating and air conditioning person haha just in context it seemed as if they were discussing the screw type chargers but after reading he referred to as scroll... my bad... though i would rather a G60 over a centrifugal haha
though makes me wonder how did the G60 "lysholm" get that nickname? being the charger is clearly an Opcon by the case as opposed to Lysholm chargers having heat sink fins like Eaton has used for years. oh and if we're speaking affiliation Opcon is actually the parent company to Lysholm. Also you, BBM, publicly offer up the info that the charger is an Opcon Autorotor 2087. i have always been baffled by that... really miss mine though
For awhile now I been contemplating on purchasing Gruvenparts billet lightweight pulleys. As this was to help put less strain on the Lysholm as well as decreasing the parasitic drain it takes on the engine power to spin it and increasing overall engine efficiency. I been reading this forum and havent seen much praising on this subject, so is it just a complete waste of money to do so? Will it even help enough for me to tell a difference in rev climbs or any other factor?
I really need to slam a 16v on her
ooh i have a preety nice 16v head setup with cams and i'll even throw in a head gasket
but from what i have always been reading, only had one VR6 with billet pullies, but people are complaining that they may not be balanced. which as we all know an unbalanced crank is bad mmmkay. so i traded in my MK4 GTI VR6 cause it was smoking. underdrive billet pullies, billet flywheel and 6 puck clutch. later found out every VR i've had smoked i actually ran into the MK4's new owner and the car was still running 2 years later with no problems...
...bottom line is if you have done it already i would not worry about going back to stock
Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2
I really like it. I live in downtown and was just at a club close bye and hit it all the way home and I still have a smile on my face but its just the first day to quick to judge ill keep in touch and let you know a little later on what I still think about them. The price for them is steep I will admit that but ill let you know if it was even worth spending all that money for this modification
Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2
the lysholm charger is very reliable. don't over rev it and you wont have any problems. by over revv i mean peak and continuous revs. the lysholm is so loud because it is gear timed. same reason a straight cut gear transmission is loud. well the lysholm is excessively loud because it's designed to have the throttle body before the intake of the charger, basically this is what the BBM silencer kit does. it puts the TB before the charger's intake.
If you have a BBM supercharger that is 4+ years old with high miles or over driven and raced. It is a really good idea to have it rebuilt by us and start a new fresh life with all new bearings and seals.
If you have a turbo or a supercharger...if you take good care with proper installation / maintenance they take good care of you. Many have gone over 100,000 miles and 100's are still out there boosting cars all around the world.
It is crazy hard for me to believe that we have had this kit out now for nearly 14 years
I actually like them silenced...not really the correct wording for this. Putting the t-body in front of the inlet of the charger cuts the blower wine down by about 50+%. I personally think they sound just right this way. The one thing that I always love is the massive torque curve and performance
Last edited by JBETZ; 05-03-2012 at 03:06 AM.
You can safely run 18 psi...even peak at 20 psi reliably with a good g-lader, no problem.
A much better choice than a turbo on this engine....my opinion.
But if you really want to rip....nothing will beat a twin screw on this engine.
reliability with a G lader now there's an oxymoron if I ever heard one.
92 Corrado OBD2 ABA Powered by MS3Pro
Linfert Performance: The Megasquirt guy in central Florida Like my Facebook page....
Sandy Linfert 11/4/1991 - 5/13/2013
Wait that much boost with what cam/head work. I've lost a good 2 maybe 3 psi going from a Stock cam to a 272/272. (although the car feels faster, and likes to be reved more)
Lets talk pulley size, what's about the smallest you can safely run up to 6000rpm?
| Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |
my lysholm is over 10 years old. I am honestly not sure of the mileage I am sure its up there. I run a 55mm pulley on it and daily drive it everyday. Its stage 4 I peak at 18lbs of boost but I am losing 2 - 3lbs through the stupid amounts of intercooler piping I have.
I just wish BBM supplied a sticker along the lines of "Yeah..you're right its my power steering pump"
Just like any form of forced induction, the condition and reliability is greatly affected by the user and maintenance.
If you run a good air filter that is not rubbing and damaged, the charger will not suck up dirt and wear out prematurely. If you change the oil and keep your boost return misting back into the charger as intended....it will lubricate the apex strips and run strong for a very very long time. The ones the we see broken, worn excessively or damaged are from poor maintenance. Start with a good one, take care of it and get another 20+yrs of reliable run time.
I personally have owned more than a few G60's and have never broken or blown a G60 g-lader. I've ran around with a 58mm. 65mm can be very safe on a good unit....even smaller. Depends on how you treat it. Some people treat G60 PG engines like they are Honda street bike motors and think they should rev the $h1t out of them to the moon. This is not a happy place for the g-lader...bouncing off rev limit a no / no. I shift at 6k and avoid the rev limit. More rpm on this engine is not where the performance is at, grab a gear and use the torque.