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    Thread: How to identify cams?

    1. Member
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      04-10-2012 10:39 AM #1
      So, I found a set of Autotech 262's on Craigslist for $150 with 8000 miles on them. Called the guy up and he quickly drops to $120. At this price, I am naturally sceptical. But I meet the guy to see what he has.

      I have an extra set of stock cams out so I look at them before I go. They clearly have the Audi symbol cast into them.

      These cams have no Audi symbol cast into them, so I figure they cannot be stock. Guy claims he purchased them direct from Autotech. I figure what the heck?

      After a little research, I find that Autotech cams normally have a red or brown stripe painted on them. Nothing of the sort on my recent purchase.

      However, on the end where the cam gear bolts on is the stamping "DRC 268 264" on one and "DRC 264 268" on the other.

      Pretty sure I got more than what I was expecting. Not sure what else the stamping can mean other than: I have a set of DRC 268/264s.

      Anyone know how to positively identify what cams these are?

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      04-10-2012 01:33 PM #2
      My Autotech's had a brown stripe on them.
      Best way to identify would be to call and talk to AutoTech

    3. Member VR6ix's Avatar
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      04-10-2012 02:10 PM #3
      Quote Originally Posted by MOBOZO View Post
      However, on the end where the cam gear bolts on is the stamping "DRC 268 264" on one and "DRC 264 268" on the other.

      Anyone know how to positively identify what cams these are?
      Sounds like you have DRC split-duration "268" cams for the mkIV cars Post a pic of the stamped end!

      http://drcamshafts.com/vw1.htm "DC VL268D"
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      04-10-2012 02:29 PM #4
      Sounds like you have DRC split-duration "268" cams for the mkIV cars Post a pic of the stamped end!
      Will post a pic and measurements tonight.

      Can I run these in a MK3 VR if that is what they are?

    5. Member GTIVRon's Avatar
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      04-10-2012 02:43 PM #5
      If they are for the MK4 12v and you want to "do it right" you'd need to get the MK4 intake manifold.

      Perosnally, I would just run them. You won't get quite as much *peak* power as you would with MK3 cams, but you'd get a fatter power band.
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      04-11-2012 02:23 AM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by GTIVRon View Post
      Perosnally, I would just run them. You won't get quite as much *peak* power as you would with MK3 cams, but you'd get a fatter power band.
      That makes no sense to me and I would be willing to bet they are not interchangeable. You can't run a mk3 vr6 cam in a mk4 because the mk4 manifold (plastic one) does not have internal compensation for the runner length. It doesn't sound like a good idea to try run a cam shaft and a manifold that are both compensating for the runner lengths. Seems like you'd see the same problem as mk4 vr6's running a mk3 cam shaft, just in reverse.

      OP you could also call DRC and see if they stamp there cam shafts. I didn't notice a stamp on the set I just installed but when I inspected mine I was looking for possible damage from shipping or manufacturing, not markings that they were real. If you call John and he doesn't answer try again in a few minutes you'll get him eventually.

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      04-11-2012 08:58 AM #7
      You can't run a mk3 vr6 cam in a mk4 because the mk4 manifold (plastic one) does not have internal compensation for the runner length.
      Um, I thought it was the mk4 mani that HAS the adjustable runners. I know the mk3 DOES NOT.

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      04-11-2012 09:11 AM #8
      Measured the lift on both the stock and mystery cams last night.

      Stock: Intake 0.4000", Exhaust 0.4010"
      Right where it should be. Exhaust is a little high, but it was difficult to get a perfect reading.

      Mystery: Intake 0.4484", Exhaust 0.4380"
      Very close to the advertised Intake 0.450", Exhaust 0.441" of the DRC 268/264
      as stated above, it was difficult to get a perfect reading.

      And:






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      04-11-2012 09:14 AM #9
      Wow, those pics are teribble now that I see them on a bigger screen.

      The stamp on the end definately says "DRC 268 264"

      The casted marks are "K1" and "7" and some symbol. The same "K1" and symbol are on the longer cam and a "2" instead of a "7".

    10. Member GTIVRon's Avatar
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      04-11-2012 11:17 AM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by David802 View Post
      .... Seems like you'd see the same problem as mk4 vr6's running a mk3 cam shaft, just in reverse.
      What was the problem? I see the unequal lengths resulting in peak power happening at different RPMs on each bank, effectively fattening up the power band while reducing the overal peak power.
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    11. Member VR6ix's Avatar
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      04-11-2012 11:34 AM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by MOBOZO View Post
      The stamp on the end definately says "DRC 268 264"

      The casted marks are "K1" and "7" and some symbol. The same "K1" and symbol are on the longer cam and a "2" instead of a "7".
      those are stamped & cast the same as the set I have

      Lots of people run "the wrong cams" in VR motors. If you don't want to deal with that, sell those for a nice profit and get something else.
      · ·we're only gonna die for our own arrogance that's why we might as well take our time...
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      · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to Ø

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      04-11-2012 01:22 PM #12
      those are stamped & cast the same as the set I have
      And your's are DRC 268/264s?

      Personally, I do not see a problem with running these cams in my MK3. I just won't see all the potential gains I would have if it were an MK4. Same as not seeing all the potential gains of running MK3 268s.

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      04-11-2012 01:45 PM #13
      I have emailed DRC to see what he thinks they are.

      Even without a reply, I am certain that these are DRC 268/264s.

      That being said, do I run these on stock springs and stock ECU? Obviously, I will not see all of the high revving benefits of the cams until I chip it. And I know that I should run better springs. But floating valves is more of a problem at higher RPMs that I cannot get to anyway.

      Long term, I want to do a full build on a head (port, valve job, new springs, etc). That will not happen until winter at the earliest.

      Basically, can I have some fun with these cams this summer without too much risk of braking something?

    14. Member GTIVRon's Avatar
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      04-11-2012 03:16 PM #14
      Have fun without breaking everything when you don't address the weak parts as directed by the manufacturer? no...

      The chip will raise your idle some so the car idles smoothly. Even for lower RPMs you should replace the retainers, and if you're doing that you might as well replace the springs.

      Just do it all at the same time when you have the funds and time to do it.
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    15. Member VR6ix's Avatar
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      04-11-2012 07:46 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by MOBOZO View Post
      And I know that I should run better springs. But floating valves is more of a problem at higher RPMs that I cannot get to anyway.
      I'd be more concerned with coil bind than valve float but I've never seen anything saying what lift causes the stock springs to bind. Besides, how can you have fun if you keep the RPM low? Do it right the first time, new lifters, retainers & upgrade springs, that's why my set has been sitting unused next to my spare cyl head

      My cams look like your cams, just less blurry

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      · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to Ø

    16. Member David802's Avatar
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      04-12-2012 02:30 AM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by MOBOZO View Post
      Um, I thought it was the mk4 mani that HAS the adjustable runners. I know the mk3 DOES NOT.
      You've got it backwards. The plastic manifolds on the MK4 have no internal compensation. The metal manifold on the mk3 does.

      Quote Originally Posted by GTIVRon View Post
      What was the problem? I see the unequal lengths resulting in peak power happening at different RPMs on each bank, effectively fattening up the power band while reducing the overal peak power.
      The problem is one bank of cams is fighting the other bank, making the engine run poorly and lose power. One cam is for exhaust and one is for the intake. How are you going to fatten the power band by making the exhaust system fight the intake system? If those two cams don't work together your just hindering your cars performance.

      Quote Originally Posted by MOBOZO View Post
      And your's are DRC 268/264s?

      Personally, I do not see a problem with running these cams in my MK3. I just won't see all the potential gains I would have if it were an MK4. Same as not seeing all the potential gains of running MK3 268s.
      If you're not going to see the most potential gains from your mod why waist your time and money? Do it right the first time and either get a short runner intake for your MK3 or sell those cams for twice what you paid for them (If you actually paid 150 for them) and buy the correct ones.

      Quote Originally Posted by GTIVRon View Post
      Have fun without breaking everything when you don't address the weak parts as directed by the manufacturer? no...

      The chip will raise your idle some so the car idles smoothly. Even for lower RPMs you should replace the retainers, and if you're doing that you might as well replace the springs.

      Just do it all at the same time when you have the funds and time to do it.
      This. OP If this is a car you are relying on as a daily driver then you should not cheap out because you want a few extra HP. It won't be worth it when you're parked on the side of the freeway calling a tow truck to drag whats left of your car back to the garage for repairs.
      Last edited by David802; 04-12-2012 at 02:33 AM.

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      04-12-2012 08:23 AM #17
      Wow, thanks for all of the discouraging comments guys.

      You've got it backwards. The plastic manifolds on the MK4 have no internal compensation. The metal manifold on the mk3 does.
      So, are you talking about variable runner length or the intake compensating for unequal runner length in the head? I know mk3 intake is not variable, it is a solid chunk of aluminum. I am not sure on whether it compensates for the unequal runner lenth of the head. I suppose it could. The mk4 intake I know little about about. I know it has some funky vacuum actuator on the side of it and I was assuming that was for variable runners.

      The problem is one bank of cams is fighting the other bank, making the engine run poorly and lose power. One cam is for exhaust and one is for the intake. How are you going to fatten the power band by making the exhaust system fight the intake system? If those two cams don't work together your just hindering your cars performance
      Um, have you ever had a VR6 head off? One cam is for one "bank" of cylinders the other is for the other "bank". You just discredited all of your comments.


      that's why my set has been sitting unused next to my spare cyl head
      and how long have these been sitting there?


      With all of the negative feedback on here, I turned to John @ DRC. He says they will work with stock springs and they will run in an mk3 motor.

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      04-12-2012 09:05 AM #18
      (If you actually paid 150 for them)
      $120

    19. Member VR6ix's Avatar
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      04-12-2012 11:45 AM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by MOBOZO View Post
      Wow, thanks for all of the discouraging comments guys.
      ehhh, all this stuff has been covered and beaten to death in old threads.


      Quote Originally Posted by MOBOZO View Post
      and how long have these been sitting there?
      umm... 2 years? "I'm doing it this summer!" I keep saying to myself
      · ·we're only gonna die for our own arrogance that's why we might as well take our time...
      · · /
      · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to Ø

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      04-12-2012 01:26 PM #20
      umm... 2 years? "I'm doing it this summer!" I keep saying to myself
      Yeah, don't want to end up there.

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